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Everything posted by Reacher

  1. That’s a great association with the boats we love. Thanks. I would like to see the hulls.
  2. Pete, Thanks for the write up on a challenging situation. Glad you made it home safely. In hindsight, what could you have done differently aside from watching the forecast more closely? Could you have remained at anchor? Run the boat ashore?
  3. Paul, Thanks for the excellent write-up of your experience. I really appreciate the “lessons learned “ account. I think the best lesson from your capsize is to know how valuable a competent crew member can be. Your analysis leaves me with the realization that I may not be able to recover my CS-20 in the event of a capsize. I guess it is time to make a practice capsize and see what happens. My best option may be to use a mast float. Other measures I will prepare are attaching lines amidship to help with righting leverage, sealing the deck hatch so it is water tight, adding hold down points to lash equipment aboard. My boat doesn’t have seat hatches, just watertight inspection covers, so I’m happy with that. Another avenue of preparation is to think about what to do if you can’t recover the boat. How to contact help, how to avoid hypothermia and so forth. What I hate to think about is changing one’s sailing style. Do you become more conservative, not hike out, stay in on windy days, hug the shoreline, go with maximum reefing? Buy a keelboat? Not attractive options. I hope to see you back on Lake Michigan this summer. It’s been a long winter, but sailing season starts tonight with Wednesday night races.
  4. I might think about lifting the dinghy (half) over the lowest point of the coaming then bringing it forward on its side along the seat to get it in position. Maybe even over the transom. I’m suggesting this without knowing the layout of any obstacles such as trailer fenders, etc. It’s usually easier to move something when you get it at your own level.
  5. Charlie, thanks for the clear pictures and the write up. Good to see you posting again. I camped for a couple of nights at Magnolia Beach in March on my way from Farley Boat Works. Great spot.
  6. When I was doing the calculations in the first post I was thinking that the destination was directly downwind. But I realized that it is more likely that a downwind mark might be 20 or 30 degrees off of dead downwind. In those situations the temptation might be to sail directly to the mark. But, if a 10-20 degree course deviation (sailing 40 degrees off of dead downwind rather than 10-20 degrees) adds only 2-6% to the length of the leg, it might be well worth it to sail the higher course if boat speed rises accordingly. So important to find the sweet spot for boat speed. Pete, my favorite ice boat is the Class A stern streerer aptly named The Menace.
  7. Pete, Alex, Brad, thanks for the polar plots. When a sailing friend saw my page of calculations he said, "there's charts for that." I'm thinking that the CS-20 polar plot is like the J-105, especially when the wind is up. The best downwind tactic is to sail 135 to 140 degrees off the wind in lighter air and then sail deeper off the wind as wind speed picks up to 20 kts. Or, on a typical day, sail 40 degrees off of dead downwind, then head more downwind in the puffs. Pete, my experience in ice boating is that you can't really go downwind, and you think you can't pull the sheet in hard enough going upwind. Alex, that is a very interesting link. Good find. Brad, good choice to show the difference between the Hunter (beam reach is fastest) and the broad reaching J-105.
  8. This thread is an offshoot of the Velocity Made Good (VMG) discussion in the Everglades Challenge 2019 thread. I always want to reach downwind rather than running wing and wing. But, I never really know how much faster I have to reach to have a better vmg. I thought the vmg function on a GPS would give the answer but it doesn't. Feel free to correct my trig calculations, it's been awhile. Course deviation of 10 degrees gives a 2% longer course. 20 degrees gives a 6% longer course. 30 degrees gives a 15% longer course. 40 degrees gives a 31% longer course. 45 degrees gives a 41% longer course. If you can do 5 kts straight down wind, then: 10 degrees off is 5.1 knots to stay even 20 degrees off is 5.3 30 degrees off is 5.8 40 degrees off is 6.6 45 degrees off is 7.1 kts. Once the ice melts I will check this out.
  9. I've always been disappointed in vmg readings on instruments I've used. Maybe I need better equipment. For instance, when tacking to a mark, on the second last leg (tacking to the lay line), vmg gradually diminishes until it reaches 0 at the lay line. Then you tack to sail directly to the mark and the vmg jumps to boat speed and stays there until you reach the mark. In reality your progress to the mark was constant over both legs. Does anyone have a GPS that will give the constant reading? When gibing downwind compared to running wing-and-wing, the instrument will usually say that vmg drops with gibing. But, as in the example of tacking above, the vmg bonus reading comes on the last leg. On legs prior to the last one the vmg will diminish as you go along.
  10. Southern Skimmer, how do you rate the wishbone sprits?
  11. Scott, I'd say try the plastic wood filler if it gives the color you want. Just let it fully dry before coating it with epoxy. I don't like using a filler with cabosil for spots like screw heads because it is harder than the surrounding surface and therefore doesn't sand the same. Some epoxies mixed with wood flour shrink as they cure and the next season you will see dimples on the surface. And, as you noted, epoxy will darken the wood flour.
  12. Dawn and Paul, hope you can repost the build pictures that were deleted!
  13. Acreew, You probably saw this post re lead tip for the centerboard: http://sailnaway.blogspot.com/2014/04/a-little-side-project.html. Thanks to Alan for doing it. The weight is about 18 lbs. I can see that it's not enough for ballast. Like you, I would like to know how much lead would be required. I have used a centerboard with 15 lbs of lead to keep the board down. Raising it is not an issue because the flotation of the centerboard makes the lead surprisingly light when it's in the water. The ballasted centerboard still needs a hold down to keep it from slamming back into the trunk in case of capsize. If you need to shape the lead casting so it's fair with the centerboard, I found a router with a carbide bit was effective.
  14. Nicely done! Please tell more about the foam. Can’t tell how you laid it over the frames. It appears you used some relief cuts to bend it. How did you fair it to get the smooth contours? Thanks.
  15. 20 hours ago, Reacher said: A boat typically has a thru-bulkhead electric connection to allow plug in to a 110v line. The 110v then goes inside the boat to a battery charger which is connected to the battery. Hirilonde replied: "That would be extremely dangerous. Only a proper shore power system should be hard wired in a boat for AC, including a reverse polarity switch." I don't think I described anything dangerous. Typically a boat will have an electrical connection to the outside. The shore power cord is plugged into the connection and that is how electricity is brought into the boat. However, I did describe a system that is more complex than Acreew needs. I was thinking the topic was a CS17-3. Sorry. A USB port in a car is protected with a 5 amp fuse. This could be done in the boat with a simple fuse block or an in line fuse. I agree that easiest charging on land is to use a portable charger on an extension cord.
  16. A boat typically has a thru-bulkhead electric connection to allow plug in to a 110v line. The 110v then goes inside the boat to a battery charger which is connected to the battery. The battery is then connected to a fuse/switch panel, such as Blue Seas makes. For a CS17 this panel might have six fused switches for masthead light, nav lights, radio, charging outlets, cabin lights, gps. You then run wires from the panel to your outlets, etc. Whenever you want to use something you flip the appropriate switch. To keep it simple you might omit the thru-bulkhead and just lead an extension cord in to the cabin to plug in the battery charger.
  17. I've sailed Georgian Bay and the North Channel. In my opinion a dinghy won't be necessary. You can pull up to shore and step off. You can drop the anchor and pull the stern close to shore and step off. The rocky islands mean you have to scout for a good level camp site.
  18. Paul, thanks for the good write up on the race and describing how it works. It was great to sail along side another Core Sound. I don't know how the committee arrived at the PHRF rating. I won't complain because it was fair to generous to me, but I think the CS 17 was rated a little high in comparison and deserved a better standing. I don't think Paul gained anything by being one of a few boats to go the other way around Green Island, but it was a good strategy. If there was a big wind shift it could have paid big dividends over the rest of the fleet. It was too bad that the wind settled in the second half of the race. After 8 miles of tacking and sailing close hauled I was looking for some good reaching to make up time. As it was, the racing ended for me at the windward mark because my position didn't change. I passed one boat, and one passed me, a North American 40. I was pleased about the pointing ability. Paul took the lead off the start and I could see he was making good progress upwind. I tried to match his technique. My tracker showed us tacking through about 95 degrees. And, even though the wind didn't allow us to demonstrate the reaching strength of Core Sound boats, I was happy that in light wind the boats still out performed their length and held off the longer keels. It was a blast, and, as the only centerboarders in the race, we felt that we represented our class well. A 15 mile race on the waters of Green Bay is a good test.
  19. Tfrei, What races are you in? Do you have a rating? What boats do you compete against? Re tacking on light air, all I can add is to keep your weight to leeward prior to the tack, then move across to the "new" leeward side as soon as you start the tack. Rock the boat over as you tack. Agree with Designer about starting the tack smoothly, but then push the tiller over all the way. Make sure to lift the tiller to clear the combing if necessary so the swing isn't blocked. I'm still not sure how much to heel the boat in light air to make it point. I've heeled enough to start bringing the centerboard out of the water. It feels right, but I'm not convinced it helps. I would like to hear comments from others. On August 11 I hope to race a bunch of keel boats.
  20. My previous post was 85% tongue in cheek. It is a valuable thread and kudos to the organizers for hosting the event. I learned to sail on a 12' tech dinghy with one sail. It resisted capsizing unless you assisted it, but then it turtled. Righting the boat wasn't a problem. My interest in capsizing a CS 20 is to know how far it can go under real sailing conditions before it goes over. And I'd like to know how fast it will turtle and how it recovers from that. In the meantime I will look for ways to better secure all the junk aboard.
  21. This is the worst thread ever. Before, when I sailed my CS 20 I was only concerned about keeping the mainsheet at hand. I believed Designer's assurance that releasing the main would prevent a capsize. Why prepare for a capsize when it won't happen? Yesterday when I went sailing I was looking at all the loosely stored junk on board the would go overboard. I didn't capsize, but I was afraid that the topic was so much on my mind that it would be a self fulfilling event.
  22. Joe, the battens that came with my CS 20 sails were 5/8 inch. I believe that is a common size, also used on your boat. When I inquired about a new batten BandB said they have gone to 1 inch on CS20.3. the batten pockets are large enough for at least 1.25 inch battens. I don't know enough about battens to advise you on size. Maybe a change to 1 inch would help. I am playing around with wood battens of different dimensions. Anyway, Sailrite has batten end caps of different shapes that might help your battens stay in place.
  23. This would have saved my batten. It was a full length, 80" batten that was velcroed into the pocket. In the middle of a 25 mile long windy, wavy broad reach I noticed the batten protruding 6 inches from the leach. It seemed stable, but I lost it on the takedown. A hint I got re wood battens is to wrap them in filament strapping tape. Some extra strength and you can get the pieces out if they break.
  24. I need to replace a batten. The original was 5/8" untapered fiberglass. I can replace with same, but am curious is anyone has gone to tapered wood battens. The pocket will take a 7/8 batten, maybe 1".
  25. My experience with my CS 20 is that the notch has to be cut deeper into the transom than the shaft length would indicate. The transom lifts in swells and waves and brings the prop up. In flat water it's ok, otherwise I have to keep the boat stern heavy. I don't want a bracket but I may end up doing that.
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