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Reacher

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Everything posted by Reacher

  1. I’d say no reglassing is necessary. 12 oz cloth is plenty thick. I’d use 80 grit on a random orbit sander to grind down the high spots. Or the wood rasp if that works. Then fill the low spots with bondo. Then sand it smooth, prime and paint. Others might recommend an epoxy based filler for the low spots, but bondo will do just fine in this application. A couple/few hours of sanding will make a huge difference.
  2. If the rudder is fixed (doesn't swing up?) How do keep the end plate from becoming a weed catcher?
  3. Steve, good to do the transducer test. Also, good to learn how to sew. When I built a 22' motorboat 20 years ago I was quoted $5,000 to do a full camper enclosure. That's when I bought a sewing machine. I got so much use sewing bimini tops, dodgers, cushions, rain tarps, boat covers, a screen room, bags of all sorts, and a genoa for a Tartan 34 using a high school gym floor to lay it out.
  4. Another option is to put mineral oil in the tube and just set, not glue, the transducer in the tube with the oil. You have to cap the tube to keep the oil from sloshing out. Water works, too, but it can freeze. I suggest that you place a baggie of water in the tube, set the transducer on the baggie (no air bubbles) and see if you get a good depth reading. If you do, then proceed with either mineral oil or gluing the transducer down. The water baggie test should show you if the fiberglass you layered in gives a clear shot. I glued a transducer to the inside of the hull (solid fiberglass) of a Tartan sailboat after doing water baggie tests all over the place to find a good spot. Then I applied the epoxy per the instructions. While the epoxy was curing I got good depth readings, but once it was cured it didn't work. From then on I simply left the transducer (replacement) in a baggie of water and sailed the boat for 12 years without a problem other than to refill the baggie from time to time. Anyway, my point is to test the fiberglass patch you put in before gluing in the transducer. And, maybe you don't have to glue it at all.
  5. Nick, congratulations on launching your beautiful boat! Please post more pictures as you finish the details. I like the design tweaks you did and look forward to hearing what you think of them after some sailing.
  6. Thanks for the response. The shape is eye catching, the lines look just right. I hope to make the messabout next year to see it in person.
  7. I'm interested in any more info on this boat. Size, manner of construction, sailing characteristics, etc. Thanks!
  8. What model is the gray boat pictured on the left side of the four boats? Sleek lines. All of the builders should be proud.
  9. I’m sorry if I missed a thread on this, but is there a Messabout scheduled for later this month?
  10. If you look at the photo in the thread CS 20 Mk1 you can see what the halyard on the outside of the block looks like. I think the outside lead gives the best angle to the head of the sail.
  11. All good thoughts and thanks for them. I haven’t seen hysteria in the discussion. Just attempts to get information about the effectiveness of masthead floats. I haven’t capsized my 20 and I hope not to. I intend not to. But I want to be prepared for sailing on the Great Lakes. My questions have been, Will a float work on a CS 20 Mk 1? How big? Graham answered the first by saying he would definitely have one on a Mark 1 for sailing distances solo. Thanks. As for size, I guess that is still being kicked around. I will admit that my preparation has consisted primarily of paying attention to conditions and sailing tactics. Keeping the mainsheet at hand, reefing, watching the gybes, managing weight placement, etc. I could do more with equipment hold downs, attaching righting lines, making sure the masts are sealed, and doing a test capsize. I’ve been negligent in all of that. I do have a boarding ladder. The mast float is new to me after 45 years of sailing. Never used one. That’s why I appreciate this discussion.
  12. Thanks, Alan, for the well thought out analysis and illustrations. Was the lead tip on the cb designed as a means of holding the cb down without needing to cleat it down? Or was it designed to provide righting moment and ballast? My CS20 Mk1 does not have the lead tip but I do use the breakaway cleat. Could you do an analysis of the CS20 Mk1 with respect to inversion, assuming board down? It would be good to know what size mast float would be needed. Thanks.
  13. https://www.landfallnavigation.com/windesign-mast-float-for-c420.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIirugtOS-5AIVgYbACh1haAiuEAQYASABEgIX5_D_BwE#prodspecs I saw one of these on a 15’ Mutineer. Light weight and fairly low profile. 8 liters, about 16lbs of floatation. You could put one on each mast. It is made for a luff groove, but could be modified to fit over the slugs on a sail track. I would like to hear from Alan or Designer how much floatation is needed for the various designs.
  14. They wish. You also have to figure in cost of the kit, epoxy, etc., shop expenses, sails, trailer, rigging. Maybe $1/hr net for labor?
  15. A husband/wife team I know built a CS 17 from a kit in 3-4 months working at it full time. Maybe 1200 hrs between them.
  16. Thanks, Paul and Nick. I was negligent by forgetting to give credit for the photo. Credit goes to Val Ihde. Val goes out on a boat to take shots of the participants in races out of Menominee, MI. It is good to have a picture of the boat under sail. Thanks, Val! The high roach, full batten sails came with the boat. They came from BandB Yachts and the quality is excellent. I’m glad to have them. The extra power aloft adds so much performance, but means that you have to be prepared to reef, particularly when sailing single handed in gusty winds. Even reefed for heavy conditions they perform well in all points of sail. After I finished the boat I bought the mizzen staysail. My experience has been that the high roach sails, when sailing on a broad reach, give better performance and fun, than sailing deeper downwind with the staysail. Maybe the staysail is a better match with regular cut sails. I’d like to hear comments on the experiences of others. Although the high roach sails contribute to heeling, the boat responds quickly and positively to releasing the main sheet. I know that some sailors have installed a third mainsheet block on the thwart to give extra purchase when trimming the main. I don’t have that, but I can see that it would be good at times. You need a lot more mainsheet to do that. I have long sail bags bags so that I can leave the battens in the sails. One speed component that came with with the boat that I didn’t use was a bowsprit. At first I wasn’t sure what the extra lengths of aluminum tubes were for. Then I figured I could add it later. Later hasn’t arrived, yet. For anyone looking at either a CS17 or CS20 I suggest trying to get a side by side comparison. The CS20 is a substantially larger boat, more than I would have guessed. That could affect your choice. Motor is a 2hp two stroke Suzuki 15” shaft. The transom has a cutout, which I deepened a bit, but the motor still cavitates some when going through swells as the transom is lifted.
  17. Attached is a photo of CS20 Mk1 #80 taken just after the start of of the Shepro Memorial race in Menominee MI August 10. We were the only centerboarder in the race. We finished about 20 of 34 boats that finished the race. The race is 13.2 mm out around Green Island. The highlight was that a good 10-15 kt wind came up the last 1.5 miles and we made larger boats sweat out the sprint to the finish. The race raised $24,000 for Make a Wish. I am posting this photo because it seems the CS20 Mk3 boats are claiming all the publicity. (Kidding, sort of.) My #80 was started in 2004 in Oklahoma. The original builder went on to other boats. Eventually Jackie Monies, Sail Oklahoma, bought the hull for her husband, Mike to finish. Sadly, he passed away before being able to finish it for the Everglades Challenge. Jackie then donated it to Farley Boat Works in Port Aransas, TX. I acquired it while volunteering at Farley, and finished it in 2016. Thanks to Jackie, Rick Pratt, and the crew at Farley. It is a great boat. I've sailed it on 25 mile legs across Green Bay, an arm of Lake Michigan. It is a capable camping platform. It is fast. And it handles well in wind and waves. The photo shows that there are no seat hatches, just watertight inspection ports. There is a hatch on the back lazarette. The forward compartment has a net below it for convenient storage of sleeping bags and light gear. There is ample storage for overnight trips. The large cockpit is wonderful. I hope to see more of these boats.
  18. Thanks for the video. In addition to the action footage it is good to see the rigging methods you used. It looks like you are having a great trip with opportunities to sail.
  19. Thanks for posting Wes. I followed your build log extensively while completing #80, which I acquired partially done. Thanks so much for documenting the work you did. I love the boat, am so happy to have the 20MkI. Good luck with the sale. Someone will be happy to get the boat.
  20. Mark, I got my boat partially completed. The centerboard was finished bright so I didn’t change it. It’s true that it doesn’t make much difference since it is inside the centerboard trunk anyway. But I do like the looks of the varnished lever sticking out of the trunk. Don’t know if the MkIII eve has that end visible.
  21. It sounds and looks like a nice little cruise. I haven’t done an overnighter yet this summer so this gives me some incentive. Thanks.
  22. Steve, I use the halyards to support the aft ends of the sprits. If you are only concerned about the mainsail/sprit you can use the mizzen halyard to support the main sprit. But, a pendant that you can easily detach and store is a good idea for the main. Good looking boat! Congratulations on the project and the launch.
  23. Thanks for documenting the design and the test. The angle away from the transom adds so much to the ease of use.
  24. Nick, thanks for documenting the build. And for choosing the CS 20 mk1. I obtained the partially completed hull of #80 three years ago and finished it. It was the boat I wanted since seeing a CS 17 the year before and has proven to be a great choice for daysailing and short cruises. And it is fun to run past much larger keelboats when the wind is up. I like your modification of the forward area. I added cargo netting under the foredeck hatch so I can toss in light gear without having it fall to the bottom out of reach. I attached a ladder similar to yours. It has worked well enough. If you can devise a way to have the bottom angle out from the boat it would be easier to use. Please keep posting pictures.
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