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Everything posted by Reacher

  1. Nick C, (or any other float users) Is the weight of the float noticeable when raising the mast?
  2. Andy, thinking about the optimum wind to win the race around Green Island makes up about 90% of my pre race daydreaming. First of all, there is no rowing, so the extreme light air scenario would only work if everyone else dropped out after sitting still for 10 hours. The course is roughly NW to SE and back. So a SW wind at 8 knots would be great to get to the far end of the Island without reefing. Then immediately upon rounding the far mark the wind would shift S at a steady 18kts to give consistent all out planing all the way back. I think that would be the best chance. There just can’t be any tacking. The handicap is based on the nominal length of the race at so many seconds per mile. If upwind work lengthens the course as sailed by, say, 2 miles, the extra distance doesn’t increase the handicap.
  3. Andy, thanks for thinking that 22/35 is a great job. I wish the results sheet identified the make and length of the boats. The top ten boats are out of reach for me on the open water course of that length. Bennateau 40s, C&C 115, Henderson 30, etc. My boat generally does well against boats less than 30 feet. It’s the 30-34 foot range I try to compete with. It all depends on a good reaching wind vs tacking. All the other boats are keel boats. In the past three years a couple of Core Sounds (that’s Paul356 and me) got exemptions to compete. Designer, thanks for the analysis. I noticed that my sails should have been hoisted a few more inches. My fault that they were not. That accounts for the luff because I need the full hoist to tighten the downhaul sufficiently. I also think that my main sprit needs to be raised at the mast end to provide more vang. Despite measuring and remeasuring it seems the two sprits are not parallel and I think the front one is off. The fact that we did not make 90 degree tacks comes in part from not wanting to pinch, and erring on the side of speed. The island also messes with wind direction and waves bending around the shoal and coming straight at you. But, better sail trim is warranted. As for sail trim and heel at the start, I’ll tell my co-skipper she needs to sharpen her tactics. We’ll see where that gets me. All in all the race felt good. We were passing and catching boats while planing to the finish line. We just ran out of room. And everyone loves “that beautiful boat”.
  4. I’m updating this thread following the 2021 Shepro race, a double handed jib and main race out of Menominee MI around Green Island. About 15 miles. In my case it is a main and mizzen race on my Core Sound 20.1. I will try to attach a picture of the course as sailed in order to show how the boat tacks. I think the angle of tacking is pretty respectable, if not quite 90 degrees. There is one short tack where we were on port and had to give way to a starboard boat. Wind speed outbound was 7mph, increasing to 12-15 on the reach back. We did well on the reach. The picture is from the start, just about to cross the line.
  5. Thought I would add an update to the mainsheet thread. First, for CS20 mk1 sailors I recommend a 60' mainsheet to fully extend the sail when easing the sheet from one side. The minimum is 52, but with 60' you can get some forward rotation which is good for sailing wing and wing. Second, I really like the BandB 3/8 dinghy braid. Much better feel than the sta set line I was using.
  6. Andy, the quick answer to your question is no, there is no interference with passengers enjoying the ride. The boat is actually one of the most passenger friendly rides you will find. The CS mk1 version I have has long open seats on each side suitable for sitting, moving around, even stretching out for a nap in light air. The rig allows the sails to tend themselves on tacks and jibes. Extremely passenger friendly. The lightweight sprits swing across the cockpit during turns, but they are safer than a head knocker boom. The lines are easily organized with 2-3 “line bags” to contain the halyards, downhauls, and other control lines. The double ended mainsheet is, to me, more of a convenience than not. Whether you are sailing from the high side of the boat or the low side, the cleat is right there in front of you. I started this discussion on a 4:1 mainsheet because, in my old age, I still enjoy a robust close hauled sail with the mainsheet in hand to play the gusts. I’d just like it to be easier to haul it in the last foot during those times. I don’t think that the extra line required for 4:1 would bother the passengers.
  7. Thanks to everyone who replied and especially to Alan for the detail and the diagrams. I am opting for the incremental approach. I’m changing out my line for some of the BandB 3/8 dinghy braid. And adding some extra length to allow the 10 degrees forward rotation at the mast. I’m not going to cut the line into separate main and mizzen sheets, but rather just thread the line through all the blocks and have a single sheet. Then, if I decide on a good way to get occasional 4:1 purchase I will use the single sheet as the long main sheet and buy a mizzen sheet. I have coaming mounted cleats which are handy, simple, inexpensive, light, and effective, all as Alan said. I’ve thought about changing over to a swivel block/jam cleat on each end of the mainsheet but would like to see and try it to see how it might be better or worse than the basic plan. Just as I would like to test out a 4:1 rig. I might need a trip to the Messabout. Happy sailing to everyone.
  8. I'm replacing the sheets for my CS 20 mk1. I think the original line is 7/16 (it's now soft and fuzzy). I can't find the recommended diameter in the rigging plan. Can someone confirm? Also, I have 2:1 purchase on the main. The sheet runs through a block on the thwart to a block on the sprit then back to a block on the thwart. I have noticed that some rigs show a 4:1 purchase (thwart to sprit to thwart to sprit and back to thwart). In heavier winds I would like the 4:1 to make trimming easier and keeping the sheet in hand. But this also doubles the amount of line being pulled through the blocks. I'd appreciate comments on how the 4:1 works for you. Finally, my current mainsheet does not allow the sail to ride forward of the mast. I can see that allowing the sail to go forward of the mast could be good for dead downwind without being on the verge of a jibe. But it also seems like a recipe for being out of control in following swells. Any comments from those who sail with the main forward of the mast? Thank you.
  9. Sailbags that fit over sail and sprit. Stays attached at sail track with aft end of sprit held up by halyard. Much like the typical mainsail cover.
  10. Padre, yes, it would be good to sail with another Core Sound owner. I haven’t had the boat in the water yet this summer but that could happen in the next few days. I will let you know. Andy B, I would be good with driving to Gladstone or Manistique if that would help your planning.
  11. Andy, if Marinette works for you send me an email through this site with a contact number. We’ll set something up.
  12. tfrei, I suggest you also inspect the end of the support piece that runs under the front of the plywood step—where it butts up against the centerboard trunk. It might be that that end is loose and sagged, causing the plywood seam to pop under load. Just a guess from looking at the picture. A great thing about the boat is that there isn’t anything you can’t fix.
  13. Charlie Jones, South Texas Sailing, is a skilled boatbuilder who has built Core Sound models for others. He is in Magnolia Beach, Texas. I don’t know if he would be interested or available but he would be a source of information about doing it that way. Another option would be to find a boatbuilding club, school, or class to do the work at their facilities. You provide the kit and supplies, they get to do the work. For many people the joy of wooden boats is being able to build one without having to own it at the end.
  14. Were you able to accomplish the noise reduction you wanted with the engine cover?
  15. Additional downhauls led back to the cockpit is good. At least one additional downhaul is good. You can save some clutter and hardware by running downhaul lines through the same deck eye and use the same jam cleat. You can add additional outhauls to the sprit to trim the clew without having to detach the clew.
  16. I believe the Andersen bailer is the option for draining the cockpits of mark 1 boats where the cockpit floor is below the waterline.
  17. Steve, don’t beat yourself up over the capsize. You aren’t the only one who regrets some maneuver or misstep. I’ve mixed up red and green bouys and barely caught the mistake in time. I headed out into a busy shipping channel without remembering to turn on the fuel valve and had to scramble a few minutes later when the engine quit. I took a gamble on a weak anchor set when a storm came through at night and I had to let the anchor go. (I was able to retrieve it the next day.) I could go on. Good job recovering from the capsize and thanks for writing it up so we all can learn something.
  18. Thrillsbe, you are right, the video is a nice winter treat for those of us who practice winter storage. This whole thread has been good for winter reading and dreaming. You have me thinking about something more weatherly than a tarp and mosquito net. After seeing your tent set up I got out my CS 20 plans and a scale. I have just enough space between the transom and the mizzen mast for the tent. How are you supporting the filler boards between the seats? Did you buy the Kelty Late Start 1?
  19. Paul, I really like the way you’ve outfitted your boat, and especially admire how you use it. Thrillsbe, you might consider a screen “bug bivy” along with a tarp to keep the rain and the sun off. Make a board for one side of the cockpit and no need to move the mizzen mast. I camped under a tarp on my CS 20 and liked how it worked.
  20. I used foam/foil soundproofing material available through West Marine or Defender or similar marine stores. The material is 1.5 or 2 inches thick. My installation was around the engine on an I/O, so totally enclosed. The noise reduction was significant and worthwhile, but not as quiet as I hoped. My boat is also made of plywood, so the whole thing is a sound board. The best place to ride is in the bow where the dash and windshield block the sound. The foam in soundproofing is open cell. It absorbs sound, but also water. I don’t know how effective it is when wet. The foam is also flame retardant to a modest degree. You might first fashion a shell around your motor well to see if that helps. When the boat is at speed remove the shell to hear the difference in sound levels. Then proceed to add foam. Good luck. I admire your work.
  21. A few years ago I shared shop space with a fellow building aScamp from a kit. He started the boat at a Scamp Camp, which is common. After a couple of years he was trying to finish it. Paul is right in that it is a complicated build compared to a CS15. The builder told me there are a lot of half done Scamps out there that never progressed beyond the Scamp Camp stage. I can’t comment on Scamp sailing characteristics. But I would strongly suggest that a potential builder should see one, talk to the builder, sail one, and look at the reality of using the boat. In my opinion the CS15 is a better first build and more likely to be completed and sailed.
  22. Thanks for showing us your trip. It is inspiring to see the boats in action. Going sail camping on Rainy Lake in September is ambitious. And, it looks like you made some good tacks in the channel. Well done.
  23. Nothing has broken on my CS20 Mk 1. Things that I have stressed the most are the masts and the mizzenmast sprit and rigging. The masts were stressed when sailing with full roach sails, unreefed, in 20 knot winds with four adults aboard to hold down the weather side. Lots of bend to the aluminum masts. The mizzen when jibing. The mainsail jibes first and gently because it is shielded by the mizzen. In strong winds the mizzen will really pop across if not sheeted in, something I don’t always do. Again, no damage. An example of operator error. I tie the centerboard up with a safety line when trailering. I forgot to do it on one occasion and ended up dragging the board a short way, putting a little extra rounded edge on the front corner of the board. The regular line that holds the board up did not hold. Maybe that is a weak link, but still my error.
  24. Regarding paint, I would skip the Rustoleum marine paint. I tried it. It is inexpensive, fairly tough, but inferior in finish. Consider Interlux Brightside one part polyurethane along with its primer. Sand the primer well and you will be rewarded.
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