Reacher
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Posts posted by Reacher
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Andy, Great choice on the Core Sound 20 mk1! I hope to see it on the water this summer along with some other Core Sounds from the area.
I rented a uhaul truck to tow a uhaul car hauler and it worked fine. I don’t know the rules for towing your own trailer. If you go that route I'd suggest finding out what the correct hitch drop is needed, if any, for a level tow.
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I had a chance to talk with an abrasives manufacturing engineer about 3M cubitron. It is a ceramic grit. It goes onto the paper as tiny cubes. Each exposed edge is a cutting edge. As it is used the cube breaks along micro fracture lines and a particle breaks off. The newly exposed edges of the break form new sharp cutting edges. Cubitron is sometimes referred to as self-sharpening. The sandpaper will remain sharp as long as there is grit on the paper. In contrast, aluminum oxide, the most common grit, will wear smooth and lose its bite even while there is grit remaining.
Cubitron requires pressure to fracture the ceramic grit and renew the edge. It is for power sanding only, not hand sanding. A random orbital sander works fine.
I asked about non-clogging paper. Most sandpaper advertised as non-clogging is "open coat" sandpaper where as much as 50% of the paper is not covered with grit. The spaces between the particles shed the residue. Some non-clogging papers have two layers of grit. The base layer is closed coat, completely covered, and the second is open coat and designed to wear off as it becomes clogged.
I asked about epoxy. The clogging problem, as we know, is from not letting it cure. If the paper clogs with epoxy it is actually buffing the surface, not abrading it. "If there is no dust you are not sanding."
Finally I asked about which sandpaper to use. The answer was that for the home project just experiment and see what works best. Industrial users know how many board feet they are sanding per minute and how many total board feet they get per belt. The differences between grit, adhesive, backing and cost become apparent. The home woodworker isn't fine tuned like that.
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I was gifted a Festool RO sander. I would not have bought such a premium product, having been satisfied with a Dewalt. But I believe the cost is justified, it is a great tool. It has a different hole pattern. I use Granit paper for now.
I am definitely going to try 3M Cubitron net disks. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/dc/v101281248/?gf=true&price=list-low. I think 3M is the leader for good reason. This new product sounds great for exceptional cutting, long life, and dust extraction.
I'd be interested in any reports on this sandpaper.
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Aphers, floatation placed high in the boat, snugged up under the rail or side deck is good. When the boat is capsizing or laying in its side, what was the high point while sailing becomes the low point at capsize.
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I don't see a need for bottom paint unless the boat stays in the water at a slip or mooring. If it stays on a trailer the regular hull paint an be hosed and cleaned and waxed as necessary.
I'm a believer in Interlux Brightside primer and paint as a one part paint that looks good and wears well. It is rolled and tipped. I know others on the forum will recommend a two part paint.
I'm not sure why you don't want gloss. With good prep work a gloss looks good. The more expensive the paint the higher the gloss--that is what the company is selling.
You might want non skid in certain areas.
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Kennnneee, Thanks for relating the experience. Launch ramps are an endless source of entertainment and I have provided my share over the years. Centerboard not down, rudder not locked down so it floated up, ghosting to a gentle landing when a big gust comes out of nowhere, etc.
Advice I heard long ago was to tell the crew not to reach out with a hand or foot to fend off a landing. Let the boat take the bump. And tell the crew not to jump for the dock.
What I need help with is getting the mainsail to drop cleanly to the deck. The last quarter gets hung up and continues to catch wind when I'm trying to glide to the dock. That's made for a couple of scrambles.
Oh, and tell anyone who wants to help not to grab the foot of the mast when lifting it up to step it.
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I have to disagree with Designer. I think it was entirely the fault of the crew. The crew's very presence caused Kennneee to alter how he normally would have executed a competent docking. It put the boat at risk. Best practice is to have the crew swim ashore while the skipper lands the boat.
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Good work and thanks for the photos.
And the final cost is...$5250, including labor, materials, and shop overhead?
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On 12/23/2022 at 12:26 PM, Designer said:
Chick is right. The CB was in place just for a test fit. Installing the board later is easy but it it is better with two people. The key is the permanent marker X that you can see in the photo. My assistant raises the board flush with the bottom and as far forward as he can. I am looking through the pin hole with a light for my X. I can then direct slight movements watching the X until I can see the hole. I am ready with an awl or #1 phillips screwdriver to poke into the hole. I can then wriggle the screwdriver to properly align the holes. I have the pin ready, I holler to my helper to not move the board and quickly withdraw screwdriver and replace with the CB pin.
I used this method to install a centerboard in a Tartan 34, working alone. I found it useful to draw directional arrows along the lines of the X. When a guide line came into view the arrow told me which way to the hole. This might also pertain to Avocet.
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It’s a good list. Under options you might include a tabernacle, at least as an option on Mark I boats. Also bow sprits and stay sails.
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Padre Point,
Don is making some additional hull modifications to Avocet.
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Thanks for posting the videos.
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Yes to silicon bronze frearson drive wood screws with a combination pilot bit attachment for joining wood. (That's a mouthful for a simple little step.)
Yes to using some stainless sheet metal screws for deck fittings on the Core Sound to match metals or when cap heads are needed.
And don't forget to clear any sawdust from between the plank and the frame after the pilot hole is drilled.
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Also, the pilot hole should be a little shorter than the screw so that the threads at the tip bite into wood. I can’t remember the additional holding strength the tip provides, but it is significant and worth doing.
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I did try BandB site first but didn't see the listing for roller covers so I went with Duckworks. By all means support the home crew.
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https://duckworks.com/epoxy/tools-supplies/
If you happen to be in Madison you can get them at McCormick Lumber.
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Andy, thanks for the compliment but the credit belongs to Paul and his sailing family.
Paul, thanks for posting. You’ve had a good year of sailing so far. More to come I hope.
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Kevin, it is ok to drill holes in the sprit. I used a hole just big enough for a 3/16 line. Tied a knot on the topside so it couldn’t pull through the hole and tied the block to the free end on the bottom side of the sprit.
You can mount all sorts of hardware on the sprits. Reefing blocks and cleats in particular.
Congratulations on your purchase, I’m sure you will enjoy it. Just remember the designer’s main rule: Always keep the mainsheet at hand so it can be quickly released in strong gust. Don’t cleat it and forget it. The mizzen sheet is an afterthought.
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The sheet blocks get attached to the end of the sprit. The most basic way is a short line, up to 6”, hanging down from the sprit and the block snaps into a loop on the end of that short line. If the sprits have a hole near the end my guess is that the hole is the attachment point for the short line.
Other sailors install eyelets near the end of the sprit and snap the block to the eyelet.
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Thanks for the invitation. I may be able to drive over if schedules work out.
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For a 22’ boat I used hollowback (half oval) stainless steel pre drilled. I bedded it in 3M 5200. Twenty years and it is in great condition, no bending or deflection even where it rides on the front keel roller. TACO marine product. I purchased through Jamestown, but you might get it locally through West Marine or other. Shipping costs will affect your length/source choices.
I have used narrow brass stem bands, solid and oval back, on canoe stems. They look nice but don’t have the strength of the stainless steel I used on the bigger boat.
On a tangent, I just completed a wood strip kayak. I used 1” kevlar band for the stems and for the outside hull-deck joint. Too soon to give an assessment, but it is definitely tough.
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The problem is corrected. Thanks to the site admin if they fixed it.
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I can’t access any postings on bandb forum. I get a page that says ex145 error somethings gone wrong please try again later. Signed out, signed in, no change.
Did a web search on the error code and it sounds like an administrator problem, maybe a data base crash.
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Paul, Good video. The boat has little heel, the sails are full, you are not fighting the gusts or luffing up, a steady hand on the tiller, both crew securely in the boat and charging along. Well done.
Core Sound 20 for sale
in B & B Yachts Forum
Posted
Wes, good luck with you move. There are a few Core Sounds in Wisconsin should you want to join the fleet.
But I especially want to thank you for posting your build log for others to learn from and to demonstrate excellent quality construction. I found it valuable when I was completing my CS 20.
The Core Sound 20 Mk1...Accept No Substitutes!!