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Reacher

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Posts posted by Reacher

  1. When I trailer on the highway I remove the rudder and insert a mast crutch that is outfitted with pintles. The crutch has a back plate on it so the masts can’t slide backward.

     

    I also hook the downhauls over the main and mizzen crutches and snug them down and keep the masts from lifting the crutches up in the wind, which they want to do.

     

     

  2. I searched for info a few years ago and never found a study, only a lot of anecdotal information. The stories are positive. People are pleased with the look.
     

    West System, which does many technical studies and tests, does not provide an analysis that I could find. It markets graphite powder as a cosmetic filler for low friction and scuff resistance, some uv protection, no anti fouling properties. An alternative to paint.

     

    i assume that scuff resistance is at the low end of abrasion resistance.

    • Like 1
  3. Paul, am I right in assuming that your CS17.1 plans did not include an option for a main mast tabernacle? Maybe a CS17.3 builder can provide a plan of the tabernacle setup in that model. I think between scaling down the CS20.1 plans and adapting the 17.3 plans Don could create a workable refit.

     

    As far as construction goes it looks very doable. You would have good access between the deck opening and the deck hatch to install the supporting frames, add the well and fit the tabernacle. Trim the foot of the mast as necessary. Drill the drain hole.

  4. The plans I have for CS20.1 do not show a mizzen mast tabernacle. I did not install a tabernacle for the main mast.

     

    In practice the main mast is the easier one to step because the foot of the mast does not have to be raised above the deck and I can stand in a position behind the mast to easily support the rake of the mast. The foot of the mizzen mast has to be raised up and over the side deck and up to the level of of the center thwart. That's more unwieldy. 

     

    As I get older I think about adding tabernacles with remote control hydraulics to tilt the masts into position.

  5. Don, attached are parts of Core Sound 20 plans showing the mainmast tabernacle and a view of the deck cutout to accommodate the rotation of the mast. The measurements would have to be scaled back for the CS17.

     

    As Paul pointed out the foot of the mast in the tabernacle is quite a bit higher than the mast step for a conventional set up. Perhaps that allows the main mast to be raised enough so that the bottom of the sail track clears the tabernacle. The plan shows that a short back wall behind the mast and a floor at the foot of the tabernacle are needed to keep water out of the boat.

     

    the second picture shows the deck view of the trapezoidal cutout needed to allow the foot of the mast to swing. For reference, the forward edge of the hatch is also shown. I hope this helps.

    IMG_0282.jpeg

    IMG_0283.jpeg

    • Thanks 1
  6. This might be heresy to some people, but I have had good results with Bondo. I was tired of the expense, cure time, and sanding effort required with epoxy fillers. I used Bondo on a motorboat hull 25 years ago and it’s worked fine. Multiple trips at 30 mph through waves on Lake Superior included. I’ve used it ever since.

     

    Attached is a photo of a hull faired with Bondo.

     

    IMG_0229.jpeg

  7. On 11/2/2023 at 8:25 AM, AmosSwogger said:

    Whomever persuaded you to build this boat for them hit the jackpot.

    Amos, it might be the other way around. Mr Silsbe is the admitted boat building addict. How did he persuade the owner to let him build it?

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1
  8. I was at Farley Boat Works as a volunteer boatbuilder when this Core Sound 17 was built. The skill, attention to detail, and commitment to a high quality build were evident every day. The lead builder, Travis's father, has a background as a professional woodworker. This boat is a flagship example of a CS17. 

    • Like 3
  9. Musicman, I’m a long way away it terms of meeting up with you. My suggestion is to rig the boat on the trailer, hoisting the sails, getting the sheets, downhauls, and cboard lines in order. Rig the lines for the snotters (you might want to do that loosely before you raise the sails, and even go through the reefing process. There are a lot of lines to become familiar with and I’ve done it in the driveway a few times. Things can get tangled in unforeseen ways.

     

    Good luck, and take Alan up on his FaceTime offer—you can do a walk around with everything up.

  10. We were sailing on Green Bay, Lake Michigan. Its a good sailing area but you don't see many small boats/centerboarders. In a couple of resort areas on the east side of the bay there are sailing clubs using Flying Scots and even Optimist prams. The picture was taken near Menominee, Michigan. 

     

    The outboard is a 1985 Suzuki 2hp 2 cycle. Lightweight,  one pull starting, and strong enough to go in and out of marinas. It doesn’t shift, so starting it and getting off the dock solo takes some planning. It is a 15" short shaft, which is ok except I don't have my transom cutout deep enough.  Keeping weight aft is important. It has served me well all these years.  If I were to get another motor I'd get one that shifted, 3-5 hp, and a bracket at the proper height.

  11. The important thing is to post a trip report or several.

     

    I've heard it said "It's great to have a destination but not a schedule when you go sailing". If you start sailing the whole course you can have a great cruise for wherever you decide is the final destination. 

     

    As for an autopilot,  I would use one if I was motoring a long stretch in calm conditions. On a 34' boat I had a self steering wind vane for sailing conditions and that was great because the boat was ballasted and it reacted well to wind shifts. But I am skeptical of even a wind vane on a boat that could capsize.

     

    Maybe some users of the B&B wind vane could chime in.

     

    Good luck with your trip. It is a great challenge. 

  12. I have a 22' home built plywood/ fiberglass boat with coverage from American Family. The policy is mainly for property damage to others and liability for injuries

    to others or my passengers. The coverage on the boat is for "actual cash value" which probably translates to "not much". The liability limits are 500k and the annual premium is $168. I think the significant factor in determining the rate is horsepower of the motor.

    • Like 1
  13. Wes, good luck with you move. There are a few Core Sounds in Wisconsin should you want to join the fleet.

     

    But I especially want to thank you for posting your build log for others to learn from and to demonstrate excellent quality construction. I found it valuable when I was completing my CS 20.

     

    The Core Sound 20 Mk1...Accept No Substitutes!!

  14. Andy, Great choice on the Core Sound 20 mk1! I hope to see it on the water this summer along with some other Core Sounds from the area.

     

    I rented a uhaul truck to tow a uhaul car hauler and it worked fine. I don’t know the rules for towing your own trailer.  If you go that route I'd suggest finding out what the correct hitch drop is needed, if any, for a level tow. 

    • Like 1
  15. I had a chance to talk with an abrasives manufacturing engineer about 3M cubitron. It is a ceramic grit. It goes onto the paper as tiny cubes. Each exposed edge is a cutting edge. As it is used the cube breaks along micro fracture lines and a particle breaks off. The newly exposed edges of the break form new sharp cutting edges. Cubitron is sometimes referred to as self-sharpening. The sandpaper will remain sharp as long as there is grit on the paper. In contrast,  aluminum oxide, the most common grit, will wear smooth and lose its bite even while there is grit remaining.

     

    Cubitron requires pressure to fracture the ceramic grit and renew the edge. It is for power sanding only, not hand sanding. A random orbital sander works fine.

     

    I asked about non-clogging paper. Most sandpaper advertised as non-clogging is "open coat" sandpaper where as much as 50% of the paper is not covered with grit. The spaces between the particles shed the residue. Some non-clogging papers have two layers of grit. The base layer is closed coat, completely covered, and the second is open coat and designed to wear off as it becomes clogged. 

     

    I asked about epoxy. The clogging problem, as we know, is from not letting it cure. If the paper clogs with epoxy it is actually buffing the surface, not abrading it. "If there is no dust you are not sanding."

     

    Finally I asked about which sandpaper to use. The answer was that for the home project just experiment and see what works best. Industrial users know how many board feet they are sanding per minute and how many total board feet they get per belt. The differences between grit, adhesive, backing and cost become apparent. The home woodworker isn't fine tuned like that. 

    • Like 3
  16. I was gifted a Festool RO sander. I would not have bought such a premium product, having been satisfied with a Dewalt. But I believe the cost is justified, it is a great tool. It has a different hole pattern.  I use Granit paper for now.

     

    I am definitely going to try 3M Cubitron net disks. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/dc/v101281248/?gf=true&price=list-low. I think 3M is the leader for good reason. This new product sounds great for exceptional cutting, long life, and dust extraction. 

     

    I'd be interested in any reports on this sandpaper.

     

  17. I don't see a need for bottom paint unless the boat stays in the water at a slip or mooring. If it stays on a trailer the regular hull paint  an be hosed and cleaned and waxed as necessary. 

     

    I'm a believer in Interlux Brightside primer and paint as a one part paint that looks good and wears well. It is rolled and tipped. I know others on the forum will recommend a two part paint. 

     

    I'm not sure why you don't want gloss. With good prep work a gloss looks good. The more expensive the paint the higher the gloss--that is what the company is selling.

     

    You might want non skid in certain areas.

  18. Kennnneee, Thanks for relating the experience. Launch ramps are an endless source of entertainment and I have provided my share over the years. Centerboard not down, rudder not locked down so it floated up, ghosting to a gentle landing when a big gust comes out of nowhere, etc.

     

    Advice I heard long ago was to tell the crew not to reach out with a hand or foot to fend off a landing. Let the boat take the bump. And tell the crew not to jump for the dock.

     

    What I need help with is getting the mainsail to drop cleanly to the deck. The last quarter gets hung up and continues to catch wind when I'm trying to glide to the dock. That's made for a couple of scrambles.

     

    Oh, and tell anyone who wants to help not to grab the foot of the mast when lifting it up to step it.

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