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Reacher

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Everything posted by Reacher

  1. Kevin, it is ok to drill holes in the sprit. I used a hole just big enough for a 3/16 line. Tied a knot on the topside so it couldn’t pull through the hole and tied the block to the free end on the bottom side of the sprit. You can mount all sorts of hardware on the sprits. Reefing blocks and cleats in particular. Congratulations on your purchase, I’m sure you will enjoy it. Just remember the designer’s main rule: Always keep the mainsheet at hand so it can be quickly released in strong gust. Don’t cleat it and forget it. The mizzen sheet is an afterthought.
  2. The sheet blocks get attached to the end of the sprit. The most basic way is a short line, up to 6”, hanging down from the sprit and the block snaps into a loop on the end of that short line. If the sprits have a hole near the end my guess is that the hole is the attachment point for the short line. Other sailors install eyelets near the end of the sprit and snap the block to the eyelet.
  3. Thanks for the invitation. I may be able to drive over if schedules work out.
  4. For a 22’ boat I used hollowback (half oval) stainless steel pre drilled. I bedded it in 3M 5200. Twenty years and it is in great condition, no bending or deflection even where it rides on the front keel roller. TACO marine product. I purchased through Jamestown, but you might get it locally through West Marine or other. Shipping costs will affect your length/source choices. I have used narrow brass stem bands, solid and oval back, on canoe stems. They look nice but don’t have the strength of the stainless steel I used on the bigger boat. On a tangent, I just completed a wood strip kayak. I used 1” kevlar band for the stems and for the outside hull-deck joint. Too soon to give an assessment, but it is definitely tough.
  5. The problem is corrected. Thanks to the site admin if they fixed it.
  6. I can’t access any postings on bandb forum. I get a page that says ex145 error somethings gone wrong please try again later. Signed out, signed in, no change. Did a web search on the error code and it sounds like an administrator problem, maybe a data base crash.
  7. Paul, Good video. The boat has little heel, the sails are full, you are not fighting the gusts or luffing up, a steady hand on the tiller, both crew securely in the boat and charging along. Well done.
  8. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://messing-about.com/forums/topic/11334-roller-trough-for-a-cs203-trailer/&ved=2ahUKEwi4rs_uk8H2AhXWkWoFHTRMDLcQFnoECAMQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2_H3ykn5fAJ01CmFHd-YRk I'm bad at the search function but this link should get you to Pete McCrary 's thread on rollers.
  9. Thanks for posting this update.
  10. A roster shows the following boats. Blackbeard CS17 Mk1 Breezerider CS17 Mk3 Pink Dog CS17 Mk1 Tosa CS17 Mk1
  11. it looks like a handful of Core Sounds are entered in the race starting tomorrow March 5, 2022. Good luck to all of them. I hope that someone can post updates as has been done in the past. Thanks.
  12. I installed permanent gas tanks on a boat I built 23 years ago. They are plastic tanks (polyethylene?) and are chocked in place with hold down brackets. I can disassemble some structure to remove the tanks but it has never been necessary. I think it is important that you have an inspection cap or port so you can access the fill hose connection, the fuel line connection, the gauge sending unit and any grounding wire that might run from the tank to the deck plate. I also think it is good to be able to access the fill hose connection to the deck plate.
  13. Soft shackles are great. Silsbe, what knot did you use to complete the loop? The diamond knots are tricky, but the line you are using is tough to properly cinch. Thanks.
  14. To each their own, and I can't find fault with Silsbe's work, but to me the test is whether the boat is to be varnished. Then you need perfection without fairing. When painting you can fill and fair, high build prime and fair, and sand it to your heart's content. To the original poster of this thread I would say that if scarfing the plywood is a roadblock, you won't regret going with a butt splice joint. I thought I had a good eye and touch for sanding. Then a car restorer showed me the trick of putting a thin cotton cloth over my fingertips when checking for imperfections. It will send you back for another round of perfection.
  15. I've scarfed many panels together. Getting the proper bevel isn't difficult especially if you are doing multiple stacked sheets at the same time. Properly aligning and gluing the feather edges without getting a slight thin or thick joint is finicky. They can require just as much fairing as a butt joint. Last year I made a sailing canoe and the plans called for butt splices with fiberglass reinforcement. That is the only method I would use going forward.
  16. I’m ignorant of the economics of a forum such as this. I always assumed that the site owner made ad revenue off my activity by showing ads to me even if I never click on the ad. Maybe more if I clicked. I don’t know if my seeing ads is more or less valuable than $12/year.
  17. I also get that or similar ads on this site but not others. I clicked on the “x” on the ad to tell google to stop showing it. It popped up with a message saying that since I had turned off ad personalization the ad was not targeted to me, but to the site in general. Now I am receiving boat trailer ads. Maybe it’s the “messing about in boats” theme that makes this site a target. Also, I was not aware of the ad free option. Sounds good. Related to targeted ads…I have a Wyze security camera. Prior to last weekend, in proximity to the camera and its microphone, I was talking to my sister about home COVID tests and who stocked them. The next time I picked up my phone there was a notification banner from Wyze telling me that the kits were in stock at a local drug store. The camera is always listening, and not just for the sound of a window breaking. Finally, back to boats, my winter project is an 11’ Little Auk cedar strip kayak. In my old age the concept of car topping keeps shrinking.
  18. I saw a good example of one in use. Two low profile inflatable tubes that wrapped under the top of the sail and were raised as part of the sail. It looked fine and added no weight when raising and lowering the mast. The problem from my view was that it did not go to the top of the mast when the sail was reefed and therefore gave less righting moment under those conditions. Also it would interfere with air flow over the top 30” of the sail. So, I don’t know. If Flying Scots use them they must have been tested and accepted.
  19. Nick C, (or any other float users) Is the weight of the float noticeable when raising the mast?
  20. Andy, thinking about the optimum wind to win the race around Green Island makes up about 90% of my pre race daydreaming. First of all, there is no rowing, so the extreme light air scenario would only work if everyone else dropped out after sitting still for 10 hours. The course is roughly NW to SE and back. So a SW wind at 8 knots would be great to get to the far end of the Island without reefing. Then immediately upon rounding the far mark the wind would shift S at a steady 18kts to give consistent all out planing all the way back. I think that would be the best chance. There just can’t be any tacking. The handicap is based on the nominal length of the race at so many seconds per mile. If upwind work lengthens the course as sailed by, say, 2 miles, the extra distance doesn’t increase the handicap.
  21. Andy, thanks for thinking that 22/35 is a great job. I wish the results sheet identified the make and length of the boats. The top ten boats are out of reach for me on the open water course of that length. Bennateau 40s, C&C 115, Henderson 30, etc. My boat generally does well against boats less than 30 feet. It’s the 30-34 foot range I try to compete with. It all depends on a good reaching wind vs tacking. All the other boats are keel boats. In the past three years a couple of Core Sounds (that’s Paul356 and me) got exemptions to compete. Designer, thanks for the analysis. I noticed that my sails should have been hoisted a few more inches. My fault that they were not. That accounts for the luff because I need the full hoist to tighten the downhaul sufficiently. I also think that my main sprit needs to be raised at the mast end to provide more vang. Despite measuring and remeasuring it seems the two sprits are not parallel and I think the front one is off. The fact that we did not make 90 degree tacks comes in part from not wanting to pinch, and erring on the side of speed. The island also messes with wind direction and waves bending around the shoal and coming straight at you. But, better sail trim is warranted. As for sail trim and heel at the start, I’ll tell my co-skipper she needs to sharpen her tactics. We’ll see where that gets me. All in all the race felt good. We were passing and catching boats while planing to the finish line. We just ran out of room. And everyone loves “that beautiful boat”.
  22. I’m updating this thread following the 2021 Shepro race, a double handed jib and main race out of Menominee MI around Green Island. About 15 miles. In my case it is a main and mizzen race on my Core Sound 20.1. I will try to attach a picture of the course as sailed in order to show how the boat tacks. I think the angle of tacking is pretty respectable, if not quite 90 degrees. There is one short tack where we were on port and had to give way to a starboard boat. Wind speed outbound was 7mph, increasing to 12-15 on the reach back. We did well on the reach. The picture is from the start, just about to cross the line.
  23. Thought I would add an update to the mainsheet thread. First, for CS20 mk1 sailors I recommend a 60' mainsheet to fully extend the sail when easing the sheet from one side. The minimum is 52, but with 60' you can get some forward rotation which is good for sailing wing and wing. Second, I really like the BandB 3/8 dinghy braid. Much better feel than the sta set line I was using.
  24. Andy, the quick answer to your question is no, there is no interference with passengers enjoying the ride. The boat is actually one of the most passenger friendly rides you will find. The CS mk1 version I have has long open seats on each side suitable for sitting, moving around, even stretching out for a nap in light air. The rig allows the sails to tend themselves on tacks and jibes. Extremely passenger friendly. The lightweight sprits swing across the cockpit during turns, but they are safer than a head knocker boom. The lines are easily organized with 2-3 “line bags” to contain the halyards, downhauls, and other control lines. The double ended mainsheet is, to me, more of a convenience than not. Whether you are sailing from the high side of the boat or the low side, the cleat is right there in front of you. I started this discussion on a 4:1 mainsheet because, in my old age, I still enjoy a robust close hauled sail with the mainsheet in hand to play the gusts. I’d just like it to be easier to haul it in the last foot during those times. I don’t think that the extra line required for 4:1 would bother the passengers.
  25. Thanks to everyone who replied and especially to Alan for the detail and the diagrams. I am opting for the incremental approach. I’m changing out my line for some of the BandB 3/8 dinghy braid. And adding some extra length to allow the 10 degrees forward rotation at the mast. I’m not going to cut the line into separate main and mizzen sheets, but rather just thread the line through all the blocks and have a single sheet. Then, if I decide on a good way to get occasional 4:1 purchase I will use the single sheet as the long main sheet and buy a mizzen sheet. I have coaming mounted cleats which are handy, simple, inexpensive, light, and effective, all as Alan said. I’ve thought about changing over to a swivel block/jam cleat on each end of the mainsheet but would like to see and try it to see how it might be better or worse than the basic plan. Just as I would like to test out a 4:1 rig. I might need a trip to the Messabout. Happy sailing to everyone.
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