Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Posts posted by greendane

  1. I started in on it yesterday and learned a few things. 


    1) The keel looks like it could have been a really clean 2X4 ripped to about 1" thickness. It even looks like it was doug fir. If it wasn't a 2X4, it's certainly along those dimensions.


    2) It looks like it was primed and painted only. Little evidence (yet) that it was coated with epoxy. Just primer and paint. I've only got about 1/3 of the top cleaned off. I'll keep peeling back the paint to the hull and see how it looks. There could have been one light coat on it. 


    3) The skeg keel looks more like 1X2 stock that was shaped (again--speaking to the dimensions here). It was epoxied onto the keel and then fiberglassed. It had two "runners" but they were notched out and inserted to align with the trailer rollers. Given that these are often viewed as sacrificial, I guess I can see the reasoning of using just steel but the rust really did a number on the wood under it. The downside of course is that the keel is only needing to be sacrificed because of the damage done by these two metal strips. I'll put a runner the length of it when I replace it and use something rust-proof. This might be a good place to use bronze or the like because it is hard enough to support the weight on the trailer. 


    After looking at it for a couple of days, I think I'll cut the whole thing off and start fresh. The front 1/3 is pretty hammered, and the back 1/3 as well. 


    So here's the question--why not put several layers of epoxy on it to help toughen it up? No glass, just epoxy. Is it because it will hold the water in if any does get in there--which is certainly possible given the # of penetrations from the runner (even if sealed well)? 



  2. Xynole! Wow. Sounds good and perfectly suited to what I'm trying to do for the bow section. 


    As it's currently belly up, I can't right now crawl under to confirm, but I have this old pic of the inside of the bow section. Should I assume there is solid wood in there to screw a metal strip on the outside? It looks like visibility disappears under the base of the mast partner. Would it be ok to epoxy a wood strip to screw into? 


    Last night I started carving back layers of wood in the skeg keel where the steel "roller guards" were screwed on. The busted screws came out all too easily and were rusty. Clearly not sealed well and wrong hardware. The aluminum strip on the front keel has stainless and they seem to be coming out clean. But that doesn't mean water didn't get in there. Probably looking at replacing the keel over the length then. On the new one, will Xynole fabric be a good option here as well, or should I stick with glass? It was clear on the current situation that the 90* edges rubbed through and the glass peeled off too easily.


    As an aside, (and because it is in the new photo) my boat came with hollow wooden square masts and thus the block-like partners. The masts were both badly damaged and I was able to repair one enough to take it out over the summer. I intend to retrofit for aluminum soon. But one thing at a time...I picked up the boat with Honda 2HP motor and trailer for $1500. So I'm not going to complain too much. 

    Main parter.jpg

  3. Thanks Paul (and I should say neighbor!). Thanks for the insight--and empathy with the local conditions. I've had my share of challenges at the State Park. Actually had to back my trailer down on the beach on the north side of the north dock to retrieve once because of the thrashing. A couple questions if I may...


    I haven't worked with fiberglass yet--what do you mean by "roving and mat"? And should I remove all the paint where I put the pad? 


    And the keel "just sitting on the hull"--your opinion on epoxy vs other adhesive?


    BTW, the "wood" in the back isn't actually wood. It was a metal plate that the builder put there for the roller to rest on and I guess distribute the weight a little better. It's still smashed down a little though. Wasn't stainless. I took one of them off (there are 2) and two of the fourd screw heads just twisted right off.



  4. PAR--many thanks! All very helpful info. 


    Do you suspect the existing fasteners for the keel are from the inside of the boat? (Thinking through how to "dig them out" when I find them.) And IF I decided to put a keel on, would I fasten from the inside? Or would the BoatLife caulk be an adequate enough adhesive? And of course, what acts as the "clamp"on the keel while it cures. Gravity? Or do I have to use screws to get it to stay? 


    I need to do some weighing of how I go about this because my trailer is on the outs and maybe has 1 - 2 seasons left on it. With all the saltwater here, I'll likely be upgrading to a galvanized trailer and the ones I've seen are bunks only (no rollers). My concern there is how easy the boat is to pull in on the bunks. Perhaps these trailers sit lower, but with my existing one, I usually can only get the back roller under water before my truck wheels are in the water. Fortunately the boat is light enough to pull almost half way on by hand  before I need to use the crank. 


    Thanks again for the tips. Pulling the keel all the way off will also allow me to ensure there wasn't any water creeping to the hull.



  5. Thanks Chick. If I were to go with the sacrificial keel, can you tell me more about the difference between "bedding it down" vs epoxy? (The epoxy part I get--not sure about how to install it in a way that makes it easy to take out when it's time. I'm also not sure how I'd get the current one out if it's already epoxied in. "Lot of work" is right!


    I'll probably go with some extra glass on the front to protect it. Simple enough. 


    I'll be doing some work on the trailer too and make sure I do something to cover those trailer brackets. Thanks for the advice. 


    This might amount to another thread--but when I repaint this, I'll do all of it. How much paint should I take off (new will be same color) and what is the best way to do that? I can't tell what kind of paint it is. Looks a bit like latex to me but I don't really know. 

  6. Hi All--I picked up a CS17 almost a year ago. Yesterday I finally got it flipped over for some maintenance on the keel. There is some exposed wood and am not sure the best way to go about this. Looking for input from the fine folks here.

    First, I plan to take off the aluminum rail and the two steel (not stainless) trailer "roller guards" (the aluminum covers the front 2/3 of the keel--the back only has the two guards). Next, I plan to remove the paint the length of the keel (and an inch or so on either side of it) and start removing bad wood. If it's not too bad, I'm thinking I'll fill it up back to original form with thickened epoxy (with wood flour). If there are places where it's worse, I'll carve out that section and epoxy some oak in to replace it. Because I didn't build it, I'm not sure how it was constructed but it looks like the keel was glassed. After I fill it all back in, should I reglass it? One layer? And am I better to use something other than aluminum? I've read about brass and all that, but most of this wear comes from the trailer, not use in the water or on beaches. 


    Second, as you can see in the pictures, the bow takes a little bit of a beating. I primarily boat in the saltwater around Camano and Whidbey Islands north of Seattle. The beaches are pretty rocky most of the time (and I do my best to find the "softest" landings I can). You can also see some of the roller scars from not quite getting it lined up before pulling in onto the trailer. (I'm getting better at it but I sail single-handed a good bit of the time--and sometimes the water conditions are pretty choppy at retrieval) I'm wondering what options I have to keep this part of the boat better protected. Extra layers of epoxy? Some strips of glass? Other? 


    Thanks in advance. 



    keel exposed wood.jpg

    keel roller guard.jpg

    bow underside.jpg

  7. Hi @JPower210,  Alan has been great. I've got a quote for both the kit and for fully assembled and shipped. I saw where someone was possibly upgrading masts on theirs and it got me thinking that perhaps there are some out there. Thanks for the referral to Online Metals.  @Randy Jones, yes long shot for sure. I'm willing to drive to as far as Oregon or Idaho if needed. I have no experience with metal work and just a little with epoxy. I don't want to mess them up and prefer already set up IF I can. So just figured I would ask...

  8. Hi--a long shot, but thought I would ask. Looking for aluminum masts for my Core Sound 17. Short story is the one I bought had wood, square, hollow but badly damaged. Wanting to retrofit to aluminum. More interested in sailing than building so looking for a pair within about 300 miles of Seattle area. 

  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.