Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Posts posted by greendane

  1. 21 hours ago, Randy Jones said:

    "I'm assuming you were mizzen only with the mizzen in it's regular position." 



    @Randy JonesIf by regular you mean the center position, you're right. It wasn't in the third (aft) position. 

    I went for another sail last night and was able to tack ok. The waves were a lot less so my momentum carried me around a little easier. Still pretty slow to come about though. I'm sure with both sails it would do what it's supposed to. I'm also pretty sure that if I was a more experienced sailor I'd have less issues. 


    I don't have a halyard on my laced sails so I typically just furl them to "take them down". In the conditions I've been in single-handed, I am pretty uneasy moving forward to fiddle with just about anything (I didn't even like flipping out the fender on that side.) I also have an odd mast repair where I essentially wrapped a 1/2" thick box around a spot in the wood (hollow square) mast that was de-laminating. That box, though tapered, presents a hang-up point for raising and lowering. I've thought about trying this to see if it would help. But I wonder if under pressure I could get it to come down easily or not. 





  2. @PeterP Yup. Next time I see the whitecaps coming, I'm firing up the motor, furling the sail and coming the rest of the way back by motor and calling it a day sooner rather than later. And doing better forecasting on the wind. (The forecast was there, I just didn't make the xtra effort to confirm it.) There's a good bit of respect to be had for the Puget Sound. While there is a lot of protection, there is also a lot of potential for crazy weather. This is an extreme example: 


    • Like 1
  3. I gave myself a good scare this weekend. And learned a few adrenaline enforced lessons. Account of novice below...


    I opened my windy app and it was a buggy so I figured I'd just read live conditions when I got to the ramp. (Lesson 1: sort out the forecast first.) There was a stiff breeze but generally speaking, if there aren't white caps and the waves aren't really rocking, I'm pretty safe (only sailing with the one sail in the middle position mind you).


    Started off fine and fun. Got some spray as I was close hauled heading out. Moving faster than I've ever gone and kept my hand on the sheet the whole time to be ready for any gusts. I got out a little over a 1/2 mile and things picked up. I tried tacking but the head wind wouldn't let me get around until the 3rd try. (I'd just stall in irons). I wasn't comfortable moving to a reach > and turning through run/gibe in those conditions. (Would appreciate any wisdom here. It wasn't a lack of speed. The wind just stopped me dead in my tracks.)


    So after the third (and successful) tack attempt, I turned to a broad reach and I was on a plane off and on. Definitely the fastest I've ever gone in my CY17. I'm guessing I was close to 8 knots on a plane and when surfing down the side of the waves. Part of it was good fun. But the wind was growing and the dock/ramp faces winward. The part that wasn't fun was when I had to turn on a run to get back to the dock as the wind picked up. (Maybe 20-25 knots if the post-mortem assessment on the Windy app is true).


    The angle of the waves (no more than 2 ft I think) and the wind made it feel really unstable, even though I had the sail forward of the mast a bit. I was 300 yards out at this point. The ramp was really busy as everyone was getting off the water. I ended up using my motor (2hp Honda) to have more consistent speed. I unhooked the sheet and the sprit, let the sail flog (it was too precarious to wrap it). I pointed into the dock, found a hole between all the big boats, shut the motor at the right time and glided to the dock. I clung to the cleats, threw my fenders out (didn't have time for that earlier), tied off and called it a day. Counting my blessings with every step to my truck and trailer. I was rattled enough to forget to pull up the rudder and scuffed the bottom of it when I pulled the boat out. Bummed about that. 


    Several lessons there, and I am a willing student for any advice from you seasoned folks. 

  4. Hi all--for the next few months until I have my new masts, I only have one. I sailed it (my CS17) last year in the center position and it worked fine. I've generally run with the mizzen sail only, though I have laced on the main a couple of times. The main sail encroaches on visibility and the sprit-boom swings just at eye level.  I am curious though (and new to sailing--this is the only boat I've ever sailed), if I put the single mast and sail in the bow, how would the boat behave? More or less likely to heel or capsize? Always wanting to turn so I'd be fighting with the tiller? I really don't understand the dynamics and prefer to get some theory and feedback before doing any trial and error. Thanks. 

  5. I found a Galvanized Calkins 1000 lb capacity trailer for super cheap ($250). I took off the pivoting roller racks (there were 2 u-shaped beefy things) and replaced with some brand new 8" wide rollers that I found on Craigslist for $15 each (instead of $40) and scabbed one 4" off my old trailer. My bunk brackets will arrive tomorrow and I'll be wrapping either 2X4 or 2X6 with carpet for the bunks. Replaced the cable in the winch with a strap, new safety chain, lights, and replaced and repacked the wheel bearings. I added a cross-member L-beam to the back to provide a home for the first roller. Am cleaning up a few minor rust spots and with any luck, I'll be able to get the boat flipped and on the trailer this weekend. 



    • Like 1
  6. 10 hours ago, Walt S. said:

    DOne is better than perfect as I'm finding out.  



    Funny you shoujld say this. I have one rather perfectionistic child and as we're wrapping up the school year I've had to instill an old mantra that was passed on to me: "Done is good." It's so true. 

    • Like 1
  7. In closing, I just would like to thank all of you for your input along the way. I honestly couldn't have done it without you. @PAR -- you were especially willing to share your expertise and take the time to hammer out all those pixels to help me out. @PaulSmith--thanks for your local perspective. We'll need to connect sometime. @Hirilonde--thanks for weighing in as well. You catch the little things. They were useful. 


    More to come I am sure, but much thanks for your help to get me to this point. All the best!

  8. The main keel rub strip was the easiest. It was a little warped so I had to gently work it a bit straighter, but it flexed enough that it trued up easily with the screws. Was only off about 1/2" over the 10' length. The setback here was providing the wrong measurements to the metal shop. Ripping the 1/4" off the length of it with my table saw as time consuming. I had to build a jig of sorts to keep the bar flat and into the table, but also square to the blade. Also had to keep the waste section down and still, which I did by clamping a couple of thin paint sticks to the fence to hold just enough down pressure. 


    Shaping the taper and curve at the end proved more work than I liked. I don't have a band saw, so I tried a grinder. It mostly clogged up and didn't actually work that fast. I ended up cutting the bulk off with a hacksaw, and using a zip cutter to essentially router off the remaining. That went faster than the hand filing, which is what I used to finish it off. 


    I was going to try to form the front down over the nose of the keel. I did it, but it never took the form well so I had to straighten it back out. It never went back the way it started. So as you can see from the pics above, it's munged up a tad. 


  9. While I was at it, I cleaned up and put an extra coat of epoxy on the centerboard. It seemed a little thin in places. Also cleaned out the epoxy and paint drips out of the trunk. Next time I would be more careful to mask no just the centerboard, but the trunk as well. Had to reach in with a hacksaw blade to cut away a couple drips that were hard enough to leave scratches on the centerboard when it pivoted. 



  10. Transitions: So one of the many things I didn't do well was re-engineer the keel to transition to the stem. And the same thing on the skeg to the keel transition. I should have tapered these down to nothing instead of stopping short. At the time, I guess I thought those little skinny bits would be too flimsy to manage. It was only slightly odd without the rub strips, but with them, the transitions became more obvious. Compared to what I started with, it's better off than it was. But I'd do it differently next time. Some of the caulking here is a little sloppier than I like, but I didn't want to take more away from the seal. And so it is what it is. 

    bow stem 3.jpg

    kell to skeg transition 1.jpg

    stem strip 3.jpg

    Stem strip 2.jpg

    stem strip 1.jpg

  11. Well, it's done. Will post pics in a while. The jig for ripping the tube worked perfectly. It did take some

    work with a file to round over cut edges. And the bend was pretty easy too. Just a little at a time seemed to work. I was surprised but it never expanded the radius with the gentle curve. The downside is that I could never get the radius to collapse to align to the tighter radius on the front. So there was a little more lip there then I liked but I just made sure the 3m adhesive filled it in. 


    All in all, I think it will serve its purpose and I am more than glad to be done. I'll post some lessons learned later too. 

  12. So nothing ever seems to go as smooth as we hope. Or as I hope anyway. With 5052 aluminum they have to manufacture "flat bar" from a sheet. For the wide one it was fine though did have a slight bow. I straightened it out gently pulling it over a saw horse with firm but mild pressure. The 3/4" piece is another story. It came out with a bow, a twist and a warp. The bow was managed easily enough. And the twist took some twisting in the other direction while clamped. The warp was another story. I started by running it under a mallet. No real movement. But then I clamped it to a table and started working it a. It at a time. It'll be fine. Total of about 45 minutes farting around. 


    Chapter two has to do with me giving them dimensions for the larger one that were a 1/4" too wide. Ugh. So I'm going to build a jig on my table saw to cut that last bit off. Hope that goes as easy as the rest. 

  13. Yeah, EZ Loaders is mostly what I find here too. Be patient and check multiple times daily. There are good apps for CraigsList that allow you to check multiple areas at once (I live on a county line so there are two areas I want to see from and don't want to bounce in and out of craigslist serching). 

  14. @Walt S. As a starting point, I was looking at 3/4" wide. I'm going to use 6061 round tube (just for the 39" of stem I am doing) and rip it lengthwise using a band saw (I'll need to find-a-friend as I don't have one), probably about 1/3 of the circle. I'll make a plywood jig to match the curve of the bow stem and then play with it until it fits. The radius of the stem goes from about 100 degrees down to about 60, so I'll need to work that part too. I don't think it will be especially pretty, and the right way to do it would be to flatten the stem itself, re-glass and re-epoxy and re-paint and use a half round solid stock, but it's too late for that for me. I'll be fighting it wanting to flatten the radius a bit, but I don't think it will be too bad given it is starting as a tube.


    The other recommendation they made, that I think would work fine, is to take the length of tube, bend it first to approximate shape, and then cut with a band saw against a fence afterwards. They said the metal, even if it sprung back some, would retain the memory of the bend. I don't have the tools for that approach, so going with option one. 


    The worst part about the tubing is that it is far more expensive than the flat bar. 10 feet of 1.5" W 1/8" 5052 was $16.55. The second piece (for the skeg, but 3/4" wide and 40" long) was $3.34. The 40" tube however (6061) was $42.37. The first two also had a $7 each cutting fee, and the tube was $1.10 to cut. Total price, $85.

  15. A shout out to the great folks at Metal Supermarkets. I went in to see about getting the aluminum strips for the keel and they were very helpful. And I only had to go to Everett instead of Seattle for Online Metals. As a bonus, he's able to sheer off some 5052 from a sheet in lieu of bar stock (which is pretty readily available in 6061) and phoned a couple of metal artisans in his network to see about fabricating the stem. They passed on their approach which I think is going to work. 

  16. Thanks Paul. 


    There's this one here for $400. I think these are the same CE Smith that are available through Cabela's for about $900  Capacity = 800lbs. But at $400, I'd still need to add rollers--probably at least 3, maybe 4? That's another $100-$150. And it looks like this one could use some bearing buddies. (The rollers I have are pretty hammered. I think only one turns. I might be able to rebuild them for less though?)


    But given the overhang code in the RCW, I get a little concerned. I was in North Carolina a few weeks ago and the highways are so much less congested that I think its easier for guys like @Alan Stewart to get away with overhang like the below. I take both the motor and the rudder off when I trailer it. But maybe it would be ok?


    As rickety as mine is, what I like about it is that there is a walk way down the middle. I usually back down until the aft roller is just under the water surface. But this usually means the wheels are submerged. In saltwater no less. It also has a pretty long tongue that allows me to put the tailgate on my pickup down to see when backing up for retrieval. By the time I can see the trailer in my mirror it's already too far gone. But if I add guides to the end of the new trailer, that might solve that problem. Or I could get a shin-buster (aka hitch extension) to get the crank out past the tailgate. This trailer is a bit longer





  17. Hi Paul. I asked a State Trooper I know. While it may not be that it is enforced much, this RCW applies if I understood him correctly. 


    RCW 46.37.140
    Lamps, reflectors, and flags on projecting load.
    (1) On any vehicle having a load that extends more than four inches beyond its sides or more than four feet beyond its rear, there must be displayed red or orange fluorescent warning flags, not less than eighteen inches square, marking the extremities of such loads.
    (2) Whenever the load upon any vehicle extends to the rear four feet or more beyond the bed or body of the vehicle, there must be displayed at the extreme rear end of the load at the times specified in RCW 46.37.020:
    (a) Two red lamps, visible from a distance of at least five hundred feet to the rear;
    (b) Two red reflectors, visible at night from all distances within six hundred feet to one hundred feet to the rear when directly in front of lawful lower beams of headlamps, and located so as to indicate maximum width; and
    (c) A red lamp on each side, visible from a distance of at least five hundred feet to the side, and located so as to indicate maximum overhang.

  18. Hi All. Looking for advice on this specific ez-loader trailer type for a CS-17. I'm shopping used and hoping to be all in for under $500 and need galvanized for the salt water.


    First, I don't know what impact those swiveling bunks would have on a non-aluminium boat.

    Second, I'm trying to limit overhang to less than 4 feet.

    Third, while I could add keel rollers forward of the joint, it seems like a pretty big hole in the middle (between the rear and the triangle joint where I could add one). Seems like I'd want to have one there in the middle of outer space? 


    Of the lighter-duty trailers I've seen recommended on the forums (capacity 600-1000 lbs), this is pretty common to find this model in my neck of the woods. This one is going for $350. 


    Appreciate the feedback. Thanks. 

    ez loader 2.jpg

    ez loader.jpg

  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.