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Posts posted by alexscott

  1. Here is a tracing of your profile with what i thought were toe rails, but Capt Pete Culler called Buffalo Rails. Without them anything on the bow is bound to DJ's locker. The sampson post is on the forward bulkhead, and the deck forward of the bulkhead could be lowered for an anchor locker.

    5a846edd7f25c_ChickCruiser.thumb.jpg.a18af3b54fc98dc56fd503b5f2491c81.jpgTo my eye, she's not too high sided, and two tone topsides and different house side and top colors could further disguise her height.

  2. Jim Michalak recommends 10 hp max, but with your experience I don't think you would have any problems with a 15. At the bottom of the page in the link above there are articles by Rene Vidmer who ran his 8000 miles circumnavigating eastern North America, then shipped her to Finland and cruised to Spain and beyond. He uses a 9.8 Merc.

    Here is a Michalak article where he discusses speed of the AF4 Breve

    http://www.jimsboats.com/webarchives/2007/15feb07.htm#Figuring Power 4

    Bottom line: you should see 15 to maybe 20 knots with your 15 Johnrude.

    The beam is 5' and I'm almost positive the bottom beam is 4' (one sheet of ply)

    Look at the page for the AF4 (the original 18 footer from which the Breve was shortened)


    There are 4 videos and 5 articles which should give you a good feel for what she is like.

    BTW, if you are a bluegrass music fan, I'll tell you what AF means.


  3. Chick.


    I think that Jim Michalak's AF4 Breve would be a good place to start


    This is so simple and straightforward to build, I think it will do everything you want, and the slot top is way better for my old tired bones than crawling into a cabin. If you tilt the engine under as far as it will go to hold the bow down, it should handle rough water as well or better than something with a bow transom.

  4. Chick's picture of the stern of his boat gave me an idea. (Danger Will Robinson!) You could drop the tongue of the trailer to raise the stern and mock up something the level of the tread and platform on the floor behind the boat and try to climb aboard. Maybe a grab handle on the afterdeck could be reached from the step (after pulling up on the knotted line) and avoid setting up the Gin Pole.

    I think having you, your wife, & grandkids trying it out will point out stuff we haven't even considered.

    Graham's answer brings up another idea- a boomkin like Carlita's would be a good handhold to climb up.

  5. In thinking about reboarding in other than flat calm conditions, I came up with these observations.

    • The inboard ends of the frame are secured by a 1/4" rod thru 1" x 3/4" wood legs. The jerking loads as the stern heaves up & down could be large. I think that there should be metal straps on the sides so that the forces are not all taken by the strip of end grain against the rod.
    • The bottom step could be better secured. Maybe make the step tread 7" with the sides of the frame notched in and epoxyed.
    • Having the frame buoyant may be a problem for the swimmer, I think. lots of metal braces, metal frame, or weighted bottom step could help.
    • An easy to grab line (maybe 3/8" or 1/2" dia) with a series of knots fastened to the top of the transom would be handy to hold on to to scramble up the steps before setting up the gin pole.
    • Instead of hinges, you might think of pivoting both the frame and the top step on the rod with 2 or 4 plates off the transom, perhaps pieces of angle 'iron'

    Despite all the pickiness above, I think the ladder is maybe the best idea I have seen for the problem.

  6. On the top of the site click on [PODCAST INDEX], then scroll down (a lot!) to get to Podcast 195 " Highlights of 2017 Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival" He mentions seeing Graham & Carlita and says he recorded a podcast with Graham, but it will be a while before he posts it. Maybe feedback from B&B'ers might speed him up?

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