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Everything posted by AmosSwogger

  1. The non-skid came out looking pretty good, but it is pretty aggressive. If I had to do it over again I wouldn't put down as much particulate. It was so much fun sprinkling it on that I just kept sprinkling, and sprinkling, and sprinkling. . .
  2. Good question; I forgot to test that. Guess I'll find out on the first sail!
  3. My 5 year old "helped" me raise both sails for the first time. The sail slides did snag on the track in a few spots, but after slightly hollowing out the backside of the plastic sail slides they slid like greased lightning (the sail slides don't have flat backs, they have a slight ridge on them that tends to catch in the countersinks for the rivets). Currently working on non-skid: I'm going with the following approach: 1) roll a coat of paint, 2) sprinkle non-skid, 3) apply coats of paint over the non-skid. This is how it looks after the first coat of paint and non-skid; I'm going to add two more coats of paint after this. I'm curious as to how well this will hold up long term.
  4. Nice job Chick. I like the shapes you came up with. How did you make the trim rings? I'm guessing either pattern routing or jigsaw.
  5. Great pictures; nothing better than ax, knife, and plane work. You would have made a great ship's carpenter in the 1800's British Navy.
  6. Steve, I think there is a video that Alan made that shows what Mr. Graham is describing. I can't remember which one though. I temporary screwed a piece of plywood to my router to make an oversized baseplate to minimize tipping of the router, and trimmed down the coaming tops by sliding the router along the tops of the seats. The router bit is set low enough to take a small bite from the coaming top, and registering the base of the router on the seat keeps the coaming top parallel to the seats. The router won't reach everywhere of course, and some spots have to be worked by hand. It is important to keep weight on the oversized baseplate to prevent the router from tipping over and putting a divot in the coaming top.
  7. Cost considerations aside, eliptical would look much better than the rectangular ones shown; they would help break up the boxy look of the cabin.
  8. Steve, I didn't, but I regret not doing so (I did bed them really well with Boat Life caulk). I resolved after installing the piano hinges to drill/fill/drill every single hole after that, and that is what I have done. It is a real pain; especially on vertical surfaces; and really slows down the build, but it helps me sleep at night. In a few places I just epoxied fasteners in place (the forward mast retaining bolt for example). I probably spent more time wondering if should I drill/fill/drill for the piano hinge fasteners than the time it would have taken to have done it.
  9. That makes sense Paul. Thanks for the reply. Since I already have the mast caps screwed and caulked in place (I would have to remove them in order to attach a cheek block for a topping lift), I think I will try using the halyard. @Alan Stewart, how do you control the sprit while at anchor?
  10. Thank you for the replies. I'm still curious concerning how people get by without using topping lifts. They seem essential to me, but they aren't shown on the rigging diagrams which makes me think that Alan and Graham don't use them.
  11. Topping Lifts: Do I need to rig up topping lifts? For those that don't use topping lifts, how are the ends of the sprits supported when the sails are lowered?
  12. Splashed the boat for the first time today in motor boat mode (still working on the masts and rigging). Everything went well. We put in on the George Washington Canal right off Route 17 (close to the Dismal Swamp and just a few miles from our house) and motored down to the North Carolina border and back. The boat rolled easily off the keel rollers; glad I mounted 5 rollers on the trailer (thanks Joe Anderson for that tip). We had a toast on the water with sparkling apple cider and grape juice. The kids enjoyed the cabin. The motor performed well; impressed with how it pushed the boat even at idle speeds; a testament to how light this boat is. Thank you to everyone on the forum and Alan and Graham for helping me get this far. Now I need to get back to work so we can go for a real sail!
  13. Riveting on the mast track. I borrowed two rivet guns, one from each of my immediate neighbors, and ended up breaking both of them. Neither could be fixed. When I went to replace them I discovered they are very cheap rivet guns (costing $20-25). Basically the spring loaded wedge that separates the jaws that clamp onto the rivet shaft fail easily on these light duty guns. This gun wouldn't release the shaft and completely jammed; couldn't free it even after disassembly. When I purchased two new rivet guns to replace the one I broke, I found out why they broke. According to the back of the package they are not heavy duty enough to handle SS rivets. I opened the package on the of the new replacement guns I bought and it did finish the job without breaking, so there is that. Long story short, if you end up having to use one of these light duty guns for SS rivets dissemble it before you start and lube up the wedge and spring, and don't count it to be able to complete the job.
  14. I came to this thread hoping for pictures and funny Chick replies, and was happily rewarded with both! I like the curve on the end of your coamings, it goes nicely with the round access hole.
  15. Well, hopefully your basement will give birth naturally and you wont have to perform a "sea section". Provide us some pictures when the time comes; this should be interesting!
  16. For what its worth (not much ?) I've got about 1/4" of play in my centerboard now. I'm going to leave it as is; if it bothers me after I get some overnight time on her I may consider increasing its thickness with extra layers of fiberglass or big teflon washers. It is much easier to increase thickness than to reduce it down.
  17. I read (and re-read) many of his posts and, like thousands of other people, benefited greatly from his freely shared wealth of knowledge . He is leaving behind a rich legacy having helped many people get started in boat building; he will be missed.
  18. Was the wind pushing the water out of the sound?
  19. Sounds like quite an adventure; much respect for those toughing it out. Thanks for the update.
  20. This is coming up soon, hope to read some after action reports and see some pictures. I would like to try this after I get some sailing experience under my belt.
  21. I used the measurements in this thread to mark the waterline, these numbers should work for you even if the boat is upside down: Link .
  22. Sounds awesome, I can't commit to it yet, but I hope it turns into an annual event.
  23. Thank you, I've been following your build as well. Drew, I agree on reinforcing the tabernacle: I fiberglassed the entire tabernacle before installing it and then fiberglassed it in place to join it to the deck. Overkill, I'm sure, but it helps me sleep at night.
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