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AmosSwogger

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Everything posted by AmosSwogger

  1. Good read. Curious about the otter; I didn't think otters would frequent the sound due to the salinity levels. Is the water brackish?
  2. How did Alan make for all the lost time repairing the mast? I'm guessing sailing through the night and/or better navigation, but am interested in the hearing some of the details as time permits.
  3. Looking good. Are you going to install another Anderson bailer or just use one for both filling and emptying?
  4. Your centerboard trunk looks like it is not perfectly plumb; I think you should have attached a few more levels. Just kidding! You got a lot done, nice work. I like the wood floor in your shop.
  5. Nice work; enjoyed all the pictures.
  6. Just a quick update: sanded and epoxied the port locker area and installed the hatch framework.
  7. I'm sorry to hear about your father. He sounds like a well-rounded man who led a very interesting life.
  8. I'm looking forward to following the race; thanks for the update.
  9. Looks good Pete, thanks for all the detailed pictures.
  10. Here is the springback. It is about the same on the starboard side. I'm not worried about it; I'm just going to leave it as is. This picture shows how much I had to spread apart the shear strakes at the knee locations (using a temporary spreader) to achieve the design dimensions. As you can see, it wasn't much. Everything worked out well.
  11. If you give me a few minutes I'll go out to the shop and take some more pictures for you . . .
  12. 1. Yes, the cleat is left proud. 2. I am planning on using laminated cabin beams like Chick and skipping the hanging knees. I still should have temporary wired the knees in place for alignment purposes. I did hold them in place and everything looked good, so I didn't wire them in. 3. Yes, the 75 degree slant supports were the same on both sides. When I released the shear strakes from them after the tack welds dried, they did spring back away from the supports slightly. The amount of springback was the same on both sides, and sighting down the top edge of the strakes shows a fair line, so I'm not going to force them back (that would produce a slight dimple).
  13. Shear strakes are tack welded on. The battens are glued on with some material protruding in order to allow future beveling to match the curve of the cabin roof (thanks for that tip Pete!).
  14. I assume you are asking about the cleat attached to the aft side of Bulkhead 3: I beveled the cleat with a handplane to the proper angle so the seat top would lay flat on it. I epoxied it to the bulkhead on the workbench prior to installing the bulkhead in the boat. I obtained the angle by dry fitting the bulkhead using the CNC drawn lines on the side panels and using a bevel gauge placed on the longitudinal cleats and the bulkhead.
  15. I glued down the cockpit floor as well this weekend and used a lot of thickened epoxy. I almost reached in and filleted the squeeze out where I could, but was able to resist the temptation!
  16. Round two went much better. Scrap lead and a heavy duty thrift store pot: I mixed together bentonite clay and playground sand with just little bit of water. The ratio is roughly 10:1 sand to clay (by weight, not volume). My four year old was all about working with the sand (must be all his years of playground experience ). We compacted the green sand around the template. We melted the lead over a charcoal fire and poured it in. The respirator probably wasn't necessary, but I had one so I wore it. If I had to do it over again I would enlist a helper and make a two person handle as the pot was pretty heavy (but I had a window of opportunity and just had to go for it). It came out pretty good. Lead actually handplanes very well.
  17. Here is how I made the centerboard (with thanks to Steve who posted the tablesaw idea): Glue up the blank and ensure the grain is alternating. Flatten the blank (I used hand planes: it was little to big to fit through a 15" planer). Glue a foil shape (provided by B&B) to the end grain of the blank: Set the saw blade to the highest height that will be used on the foil template, then draw a line corrosponding to where a saw tooth just disapears beneath the table saw table. Align that mark to where you want the shaped area to transistion to the flat area of the centerboard . . . . . . then clamp a stop on an outfeed table. Make progressive passes over the tablesaw blade, adjusting the height of the blade with each pass to match the template (this would be faster with a dado blade; I meant to use one but was too lazy to change out the blade). Assign your kid to chisel away the ridges. B&B provides an really good template; use an awl to transfer the lines and cut the shape at the bandsaw. Complete the shaping/fairing; I used hand planes and a RO sander (I don't have a picture of this). This took me a long time. The board tapers in length as well as width. The template B&B provided had two foil profiles; one for the top of the board and a smaller one corrosponding to the transition to the lead tip. These two shapes were really helpful in determining the amount of taper along the length of the board. A convex soled spokeshave helps fair the transition to the flat area. I cut the tip off at the tablesaw using a sled and shims to keep the centerline of the board at 90 degrees to the blade. The weight helps keep it stable; you want a good straight cut here so your lead tip has a good mating surface. It is rewarding to see a nice foil shape after the cut.
  18. Thanks for the pictures Jay. I'm going to go the green sand route. I picked up some sand from HD, now I need to wander the women's health and beauty isle and find some bentonite clay (used to make beautifying face masks). Hopefully no one will I know will see me in there. I'll give the excess clay to my wife; if I'm lucky she won't take it the wrong way!
  19. I found Alan's blog which shows some of the B&B process. http://sailnaway.blogspot.com/2014/04/a-little-side-project.html
  20. Joe, I had read your excellent blog before I poured the concrete. I remember thinking that I had better wrap the tip well in packing tape so it releases easily! Chick, good idea concerning the use of plaster. My tip does have a constant/consistent taper. I'm just happy I was able to save the tip. It released so easily from the concrete after I chiseled away a few big chunks that I'm surprised it didn't release after I suspended it. I think there is also a stiction/suction force that has to be overcome. At the Messabout Jay mentioned using green sand; I need to look into that. Alan, how do the pros at B&B do this?
  21. Round one didn't work! I couldn't get the template out of the concrete. I did wrap the template very well in packing tape (I took the picture after I removed the tape). I actually screwed a bar to the top of the template and suspened the template with ropes from the kid's swingset, and then hit the concrete with a sledge hammer. The weight of the concrete was effectively hanging from the template. That didn't work. I thought about burning it out: drilling holes, pouring oil down the holes, and then lighting it on fire! That would have been fun, but I decided to break the concrete up with a chisel and save the template. The packing tape worked well, the concrete easily broke away with the chisel and released the template. Although the centerboard tip isn't very big, there is a lot of surface area and the concrete contracts as it dries.
  22. Great progress, thanks for posting all the pictures.
  23. What gave you the confidence to build an airplane? Did you learn to fly military, commerical, or private aircraft?
  24. I ordered one as well, thanks for the pictures Don.
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