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Posts posted by AmosSwogger

  1. 2 hours ago, Don Silsbe said:

    Currently, there is no knee.  I have a choice of adding a 1/2” or 3/4” thick one.  One is shown on both Graham and Chief’s boats in those videos.  Also, there is even less room on a 17 for packing this all in.  So, my current plan is to go straight with the roller (like Graham did), put the cleat just to port of the tabernacle (like you did), through bolt the base plate, straddling the knee, and using T-nuts to attach the roller to the base plate.  Before I do, I want to make sure I can get those beefy T-nuts in stainless.  I would also appreciate hearing from others, before I glue in the knee.


    Ok, that makes sense.  It does look better to have a straight bowsprit. 


    Glad you answered because it sounds like I should also put a knee in place, which makes sense given the potential forces involved (and installing a knee is easy enough).  I think I'll just offset the knee a little bit if I need to in order to prevent interference with the through bolts.


    I'll bet we're both overthinking this, but that is part of the fun!

  2. Don,


    I plan on through bolting the anchor roller through the bowsprit and breasthook (I don't have a knee to work around; my breasthook is 2.5" thick and fiberglassed in). 


     I'm a little confused on your knee thickness question:  is the knee already installed or are you installing one?  Is there anyway to get at least one through bolt if you angle the bowsprit a little bit more?

  3. Don, I've been working on installing a anchor roller as well.  I plan on angling it to port with the cleat fasteners going through a backing plate in the anchor well.  B&B angled theirs to stbd and their cleat goes to a backing plate in the cabin (they show that in their CS17.3 tour video), so you may want to consider their layout as well.   Here is my rough draft setup:












  4. Nice work Don!  Your cut out shape looks great.


    I agree with Don that if you pull in the mizzen too close to centerline you will no longer have good airflow on both sides of the sail.   I watch the tell tails; if I pull in the mizzen too far, the tell tails no longer stream straight back, they are angled back. 


    Let out the mizzen by as little as 1 or 2 inches until the tell tails start streaming straight back.  I'm not saying the mizzen shouldn't be pulled in hard when sailing upwind (Graham and Alan recommend the mizzen be sheeted in a little bit more than the main), just remember to check the tell tails when you do.  

  5. 2 hours ago, PadrePoint said:

    I plan to be there from Thursday (afternoon?) and leaving at some point on Monday. I have more flexibility this year. 

    I could possibly do this. 

    Excellent, I'm  arriving Thursday as well, we'll check the weather and play it by ear.

  6. I can answer some of your questions until someone better qualified chimes in . . .


    The original plans had the main mast on a tabernacle with the mizzen in a socket.  Now the plans show both masts on tabernacles (an improvement in my opinion).


    Bow sprit: you can build the boat with a socket that accepts a removable bow sprit (you don't have to build it with a socket, I didn't). For longer trips and/or racing, you can plug in the bow sprit and fly a variety of sails.  If you do that then you should use running backstays as the load on the mast goes up.  Both masts are unstayed if you elect to not use the bow sprit.

  7. Todd (CS-20.3) and I are going to go on a short overnight sailing trip leaving from Harborton, VA (this is on the Chesapeake Bay, eastern shore of VA) if anyone wants to join us. 


    We are meeting at the public boat ramp around 9-10am on Friday, 4/29, returning sometime Saturday.  Feel free to come along.  There are a ton of excellent sparsely populated anchorages everywhere in this area; we'll pick one based on current conditions. 

  8. For someone your size I would highly recommend building a CS 20.3 instead of a 17.3, even if you plan on sailing solo.  I've completed several overnight solo cruises and never felt like it was too much boat for one person.


    The nice benefit of buying a kit is that it solves your marine plywood sourcing problem (which is hard enough in normal times, but with all the supply chain issues we are having, quality marine plywood might be extremely expensive if you can even find it in stock).

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