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Oyster

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Everything posted by Oyster

  1. Great report, We need pictures, underway ones too would be great too.
  2. Took some time on the water on thurs and crossed paths with another builder of multiple boats, one being this one. We had a nice chat on the beach and he says that his wife has not been allowed in their garage with her auto for 7 seven years. I would say she is a keeper for sure. I ask him if he posted and he said no. He lives in the western part of Virginia.
  3. I will get more detailed shots the first of the week.
  4. I thought I would share this with the folks building the shorter versions of the Bluejacket. I wanted a more open cabin arrangement in the back. So this is what I did. I did loose a few inches in the cockpit even after ending up with a hull that finished off at 23' 6" LOA. For sure I am not changing the desired designs. But if you can incorporate this into your cabin build, and it fits your expanded needs for guests riding with you, I will recommend it. It takes a minimum of 36 inches to accomplish this, turning the toilet forward. I am using the Thedford Curved model, with built in battery freshwater flush and internal freshwater holding tank. I mounted the toilet with a Thedford mounting base for securing the setup to the deck. You can make your own curtain out of a shower curtain or purchase your desired fabric and sew it. I used the canvas button snaps for hanging it overhead. I used a simple screen door hook to secure it open, which closes up the back window. I did allow my curtain to end up behind the fold up seat top, which holds things in place for privacy. The front panel or knee wall for the lack of proper descriptions just lifts out from the small cleats fastened to the deck. When upright, it locks into its own self under the seat top by the seat cleat and support and at the ends against the end supports on the bulkhead and dinette seat backs. If you need more pictures, let me know. Its a simple setup and works like a champ. Disregard the upright cleat that's showing at the rear now. That was just for working out the proper location on the back side. I have removed it.
  5. Aldi, just got one locally,, But lets talk about this for a minute. a fiddle? Now you are cursing like a redneck. Of course up where you used to reside there is a more refined name for a similar instrument, violin. But in all honesty there is a difference in the two you know, even for the ones being sold at Aldi. It all has to do with the outfit you are wearing when playing the two similar instruments, either a pair of bib overalls or tuxs. Now you know the rest of the story............
  6. The one thing that Tony said about his P22 was that if he was to build it again, he would raise the cabin roof up a bit for when he was sitting on the bunks. . He would also insulate the top so that when he was using it in cooler weather and use some heat or have the natural heat with the cabin closed up, the roof top would drip condensation. Of course this is a natural act on most any cabin hulls.
  7. Well that's how its done in the industry. Just tape that line and have at it.
  8. Well you have answered your own question. Get to cutting.
  9. I don't know what to tell you about selling the boat or building another. But building a sizable boat does take time. So are you okay with being off the water if you sell this boat before you get close to finishing another one?
  10. Great looking project, I was thinking of going that direction. But currently its a real project to get all the details done on my current project, even though its up and running. So there is not enough time to another building project. So a roll up ends up being a compromise for me right now. Did you get my current email? As it relates to a towing dinghy, you still need to transport your dinghy to a cruising location with these trailer cruisers. And for anyone with a solar panel, mast and the likes, the room is somewhat limited on the top. Hope your back issues gets better before the summer cruising season.
  11. I have no problems running an aluminum prop. But lately the Solas props are a crap shoot as it relates to dependability of their pitches being as stamped. Currently I am using a Powertech, which are pretty reasonable. I picked it up for 110 bucks, brand new. I am using it on my 115 now and ran it today after trying a stainless steel one that a good friend had and would not be using it. I am with you on favoring the aluminum over the SS for our uses. Sometimes a prop shop will have some used wheels that they will let you try. Some of the boat dealers that sells new boats will have wheels that they have tried on certain engines and boats and you can buy them fairly reasonable, even allowing you to try the gently used ones that they have themselves put on for a sea trial or two.
  12. Bumping and older thread, I was wondering how you handled getting the dinghy on your coach roof? As I am getting closer to a few weeks here and there I have the smaller 8 foot that I will be using and its a bit too heavy for man handling. But doing a davit with the limited room that I have on the smaller hull is really not an option, unless I can come up with a genius idea. TIA
  13. According to the internet, Kilz 2 is water based. I use Kilz oil base primer, the white can with the red letters only on it. Applied properly and allowed to cure, especially between coats, its never gummed my sanding disc. It sands down to an onion slick finish for plain old Rustoleum type oil base paints or even awlgrip two part paint, when allowed to cure for two weeks to be sure this time of year.
  14. But according to some folk plywood is reported to be just as bad.
  15. The Suzuki 90 has a gear ratio of 2.59 versus the Yamaha that has a 2.33 gear. Your Suzuki can use at the least a 14 x 17 wheel, The weight of the 90 Suzuki is 341 versus the Yamaha is 353 20 shaft and 362 for the 25" shaft. Its important that you have a dealer close by with a good service department. This way they have parts for general maintenance bits.
  16. There is a fellow that lives in Jensen Beach that you may want to chat with. I bet you can get ahold of him thru the designer. You can also get some feedback on the handling and ride with the tiller handle set up too. The bow bottom is probably the hardest if you have never worked with that type of shape and transition before. But its not an impossible task. The transition of the forefoot to the flat panels is probably the most confusing, until you get into the build itself.
  17. Great reply. later on I will address some of the details pertaining to the engines that you describe. I actually went a different direction, larger engine even though the weight was more. Of course I highly modified the original 22 plans to the point that mild scorn was heaped upon me. And I made a few more mistakes that also created a slightly different bottom. So please forgive me of my sins when my direction and requirements are not really the same. But the proper power is really important as you go with a larger hull as with the 26. People start out with an ideal setup only to find themselves loading their boats to the point that even fuel burn is increased right along with the speed decreasing.
  18. Has anyone heard from Mister Moon? If anyone sees him, get him to check on and give us an update.
  19. We attempted to wonder onto the water today and hit a wall of fog at the inlet. It was still nice inland. I surely need to brush up on my dead reckoning skills for the occasional times that this happens.
  20. This is my footprint for a 115 Suzuki. This is 14 wide by 16 high. I think the 90 fits the same footprint. Of course you will need to figure out your curve and then mount your wedges accordingly. Then when you get your engine, you can drill your holes to fit being mindful of the height for your cavitation plate when using a 20 or 25 inch shaft engine. Note that my engine does not sit flat on the transom cap. So you may want to increase the height a bit depending on how you do your final mounting.
  21. Sure nuff folks laugh all the time when I tell them that I use it all the time, since the mid 1980s over epoxy glassed hulls as my main go to primer. You can always go back with a coat of quality primer slated for your topcoat paints after you have faired and sanded properly the Kilz. 15 bucks a gallon and simple recoating multiple coats after each one has cured over works like a charm. Just let the multiple coats cure properly before sanding and it sands as slick as a skinned onion.
  22. When you go to bed at night and close your eyes, just think about the boat being a "Mellow Yellow" now. I really don't mind the added height to the cabin. And the wood and color really compliments each other. And that shop looks like a great place to have done the project, with all that room.
  23. Many years ago Mister Moon built one, AF4 and used it when his kids were very young. I have attempted to contact him thru the site and email in the past year but with no reply. I hope he is okay. If anyone has his contact number you may get some great feedback from him. I know he was active around the EC races. I think it would be an easy build to quickly get on the water.
  24. A simple overboard live well pump submerged in a five gallon bucket will work well with alligator clips on a battery, if you have them in the cockpit region. Rig a quick disconnect on the flush out hose bib with the shut off in line and then just use a male fitting to the female quick disconnect. I actually have one that remains on the Simmons Yamaha, zip tied to the controls instead of screwing it back onto the dummy fitting on the engine.
  25. Heck I got you beat when it comes to goofy boats. I used to pick up dumpster scraps from a local lumberyard and glue the scraps together, slop some stain sealer on them and go to the water. I thought I was in high cotton. I guess ignunt is bliss, or so they say.
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