Oyster

This current build that I am attempting to finish up on is probably a five out of ten in cosmetics from anything in the past that I personally have done. This actually stems from a lot of reasons, and not from the lack of wanting and trying. But as I have aged, cosmetics takes a back seat to function in a boat. Plus this is late summer and a person can spend their time polishing or using. Using is now taking a front row for us. Anyway sorry for the side note with Ken, but he really knew how to enjoy his previous craft, even though it was yellow.

Love your reports ,, Still lurking from the bleachers and loving your boat and setup.... Your boat is similar above the rails as the Ocean Pointer, but surely the hull is prettier and much better construction and weight.

You never addressed "Perfection" . That's when you are on the water, and yes even in a yellow boat with the critical landlubbers and engineers with their pocket protectors and micrometers looking from the shore and trying to figure how to experience your Nirvana , wishing they were there too. [nice mouthful there]:<} THat's where I am with tolerance nasal gazers.

Awesome report! And tell us about the custom built drink holder, or so it appears,,, Thanks,,

When you saw you drug your centerboard, that's an understatement. Right around Nelson Bay and Sea Level there was nothing but sand for as far as you could see, with a little bit of water on it. THe windsurfer was standing tall, but going no where north in the same area. I could not get to him to see if he wanted help or water and he did not wave as if he wanted any. So if you see him tell him that the blue hull boat was not ignoring him as it turned west to head into Salter's Creek. But rest assured, the Pamlico Sound was kicking later on the afternoon out f the east northeast.

We are headed on the water tomorrow and can come get you if you wish and take or tow you back . If you need your trailer picked up, then also let me know. And if you need my number, pm me. For some reason that sound has really gotten shallow' To compound the issue of running the sound, the CG has removed a lot of the lights on the sticks that were originally in place. If you just need some dry clothes too, let me know. I see you are on the tip of Browns Island, if the spot is correct. There is a ramp at the bridge going over to Harkers Island from Straits. Its not that far to the west if you want to head that direction too and we can pick you up.

I was just responding to your comments, Sounds like you were planning to close it up, nothing more or nothing less. "The fuel tank door will either be hinged on top, or drop into guides at the bottom with turn buttons on top." Anyway, neat boat! back to the bleachers...:<}}

This boat is coming along nicely. But you should know that a portable tank needs ventilation, which that door does not allow.

We need an update.

This is an outstanding build and modification of the hull. Its nice that people are not afraid to put their own ideas on a good bottom . Please post more pictures of the boat running, if possible. I see you put the 60 hp on it. The cabin boat had a 25, IIRC and ran fine. So your boat should really get along.

I don't know if he can put much more on that boat. And that boat has more miles on the road than most any small craft I know.

Well the doors are done, except for the final topcoat paint. I trimmed the open framing out and will be using removable glass for more air. If this becomes an issue for any reason I can bed the glass in place. When I remove the glass from the opening, I will store them down below in the panel on the inside of the doors. The dogs at the top just pivot on the fasteners, while the ones at the bottom are fixed in place.

While I have some finish work to do, my boat was and is not built to the standard that your boat finished off at. I just thought I would add some of the details to this group of mostly homebuilders that may save them both money and execute some fixes on other threads that may add some additional room to the interior spaces while also saving some work in the process..

Yes sir, When you don't like the high dollar prices for the Perko stuff. you make your own. I took hex head bolts and counterbored the frame for the heads and did the same in the window frame wood. Then I made up some fast set thickened epoxy and a small block for a nice clearance when sliding open and stuck the bolt backwards in place. Make sure the glue is thick enough that the bolt stays fairly straight. You can check it during the curing process and adjust it a bit if the bolt drops a bit during the drying process. Cut as many notches in your sliders as you wish. Then I took flat washers and put on both sides of the slider and used a locking nut on the windshield one and will be using a wing nut at the frame for the adjustment notch location .

Most hardware stores have the slide bolts, some in stainless steel. But for example Amazon has a few too. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_16/133-3034148-8722228?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=slide+bolts+for+doors&sprefix=slide+bolts+for+%2Caps%2C206&crid=1DGIA5XX3NUU7 There are two types of door locks, mortised and rim latches with keys. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=perko+boat+door+locks&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aperko+boat+door+locks This requires just drilled holes. https://www.amazon.com/Perko-0919DP0CHR-Reverse-Flush-Strike/dp/B000Y82OQG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1528286832&sr=8-7&keywords=perko+boat+door+locks

This will be my finished set up showing with a temporary block when all my decks and paint is done on the door. This is a positive locking setup. Set the height on your sliding bolt that you end up with when the sliding bolt is in the bottom notch and the blocking is sitting under the door edge. Then mark your hole and drill it. I plan on using hardwood for the blocking and resin coat it really good to seal it. Hopefully this shot is clear enough to see. And no the carpet is not a finished material. I just use it to dress the deck up when using the boat until things are completely finished.

Oh so sorry to read this. He was surely a big help to a lot of people across several boating forums. I met him a bunch of years ago in Florida at his working shed.

I should have been clearer in reply to Mr. Tom. To hold the door or doors open, it is my intent to use slide bolts at the base of the door into a notched out raised stopper, picture a rectangle block of wood with a slot in it for the slide bolt so that the doors have a positive lock system. The doors have some clearance at the base with the deck angle as they open up, also enhanced with the need to have the door bottoms up a bit with a threshold between the cabin and cockpit to hopefully seal things up from any water that may run forward in the wrong situation or heavy rains. The slide bolt will naturally want to stay in the downward position until I lift it back up. Of course those screen door type hooks work okay as long as they hook in a horizontal position. You do get some chatter in choppy waters though with those .

Perko makes several locks from mortise setups to face mounted rim locks. I am not too excited about the prices though. SO my alternative is to go with the traditional barn door hasp with a master lock. But that doesn't solve my issues about just closing the double doors when underway in particular and they staying shut without a jam keeper. I may look around the used shops and see if I can find any used locks between now and the time I finally get all the details done on the doors.

Well the door unit was fitted correctly to the jam , cut and roughed in on the hinges. The t-astragal moulding will go on the edge, closing up the seam. I am considering cutting the windows a bit bigger before I trim the window frames. The doors are certainly lightweight enough going this direction. Cheers

This is a simple method for anyone that fusses with making the entrance door on your cabin. This can be done in a day if you plan correctly. Cut you a sheet of 1/4" plywood for your entrance, whether its a slider or two split folding opening doors, which I am going with when done. Then cut your available solid wood. In my case I used Juniper for weight savings and also plan on painting it , so no need for any fancy hardwoods. The thickness when resawing the board ended up to be 1/2" . This makes the door come out 1 1/4" when its done. Of course you can end up with a thinner door. But when I do the finish sanding, I plan on sawing it down the middle, for the folding feature with a lock and moulding over the seam. I dry fit everything, staggering the joints from one side to the other. Then I glue up one side and let it cure to a green stage and then flip it over and glue up the other side. Make sure your surface is flat for the glue up. That's really important in the initial glue up for the first side.

I thought of you today, Mr. Designer. We took our skiff up the Trent River today, away from all of the crazies and wind at the shore and found dozens of new babies nesting on all the day markers and what is supposed to be lighted markers. So I thought I would share one for you on your thread.

WOW, I am speechless. A person never knows what they will find when opening up this thread. Its a bundle of laughs and smiles, of course in a good way all wrapped up under one umbrella.

Well to be fair, Graham has been known to be wrong too. IIRC he used to drive on the wrong side of the road as standard practice.

Hopefully this will help. I have only one cleat in the middle of the upright that jams it against the two in the back that's located in the offset position from the front. I also have two cleats at the top, and opposing sides. The supports stops the panel from going back too. When the seat it down, the front support locks in the panel securely. When I lift the seat up, the panel naturally falls forward and lifts out. I could probably use a couple more at the deck fitted loosely at the ends, if I have a problem down the road keeping the panel straight I use a hook located on an angle, which keeps the seat upright and the hook will not fall out of the hook eye. I also use a hardwood, had a piece of ok for that, and will probably put one down the middle. I still have the cosmetics to do on the parts. As a side note, thanks Mr. Frank for making it so easy to load pictures directly to the posts.