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Everything posted by Oyster

  1. A boat without an official name is just a thing. There are no expections with things. So today we gave it life, gold leaf with a black border and will finish sanding the transom and will receive several additional coats of spar varnish. ;D
  2. I cannot invision with added space to the cabin what you would gain over the existing layout and size thats on the original plans. You still need to have space for setting your centerboard which is outside the cabin and be able to use the hull in shallow conditions which also needs to be reached at a moments notice in shallow water conditions. Of course in some areas this may not be an issue either. The interior as drawn from witnessing the boat first hand is really large. Remember also you have the second mast too which is located just aft of the existing cabin now. You still need to have some room to enter the boat cabin, too. I guess you could offset the entrance way, loosing some inside that you are attempting to gain. Just a few idle thoughts....
  3. This is turning out to be a very nice looking hull. I am a fan of the pebble finish, especially in lighter color hulls in lieu of flattening agents using the gloss paints. The thread was started in late Aug. I wonder how many hours the CNC saved? I take it that you have kept track of your working hours too? Are you planning on competing with me in making your next million too, building small hulls?? HEHE!!! ;D ;D ;D
  4. You have heard about the ugly girl thats one of the best friends to have? Well what you see is the best thing going for this hull build and for finish work. What you see amounts to reclaimed from the recycle bin wood, forming a very efficent and effective rig that I can adjust and will never stumble over walking around the boat. Its just plain corney looking. I made it so I use a 4x4 running along the centerline that has a notch in the end that holds the stem rigid and right angle to the keel. I run in a long fastener through the bottom face of the stem that gets the false stem glued to it. After framing the boat, I can run the fastener out and then remove the bottom framing and planking righting it up using the outer keel to rest in the notch for the 4x4 after removing it, keeping it stiff and correct for the side planking. WOW Tom, thats a lot to look foward to when you enter in Feb. Ouch!!!Take care........
  5. I finally took the boat outside for some needed cleaning and wanting to see the differences in the hull from the original one. I think there is some improvement in the proportions, but thats just my take on it. The bottom stayed the same, just the stem was righted a bit. I also use a dory style painter installed through the top of the stem making it very easy for beaching too. This also eliminates any bow eyes, doubling to secure the boat while underway on a small trailer, keeping in the traditions of simplicity. I oversize a hole and use a copper tube flared on each side fitted flush to the sides and will install with thickened epoxy around the tube and letting this harden. The flare locks it in and this gives me a solid and clean hole for the line with no down the road water issues in the stem. I plan on window dressing the rails with varnished woods, using mahogany sandwiching with cedar. This is the rail makeup.
  6. Hot glue guns, AAAHHHHH, Yep some folks have all the fancy tools but some of us also has a bad tendancy to also get wrapped up in extention cords, too. ;D The rectangle pieces do not always work in shapely hulls if they are not cut to a fan type shape, since they hit each other if they are too wide. I use a bevel square to take the angle off the chine to the bottom and cut that angle first on the rib in the case of this hard chine hull. These planks are actually tapered planks fore and aft, even though they are straight edged for several reasons. So this is the reason for the narrower pieces too. But thats for another thread and different day.
  7. This is just a dummy way to make ribs for a lapstrake hull. Some folks may have seen this but its a down and dirty way to do any inside pattern for almost anything including bulkheads. Some folks do use a fancy tick stick. But thats just not me. I take a scrap piece of luan 1/4" plywood and clamp to the bottom frame and also use small cutoffs of plywood 1/4" thick and place them at the edges of each offset and srew them in place. I then remove them and transfer the edges to the good stuff. This takes about one minute at most and then just unscrew them and move along to the next position and do the same. Sometimes each side will have a bit of difference. But I do each station, port or starboard before I move along. Sometimes I refine the edges and foward angles with my trusty angle grinders, just marking the foward edge with a pencil, sanding to the marks. I did the complete boat ribs in less than two hours. I always measure and mark the ribs on the insides and back drill a pilot hole since this ribs are only 1/2" thick, only serving to keep the hull sides and hull rigid in glued lapstrake.
  8. Tom, LOL!! Yep a real money making business, wooden boats, especially small ones. Hope your hospital stay is brief. If Ms. Liz needs anything let us know for sure. And if you need some second opinions, I am sure I can find some around here in some of Linda's books. HEHE!! Yes I did change the boat a bit. I raked the stem back more upright and kept the bottom the same. I also increased the side angle a couple of degrees to achieve a fuller hull for the same bottom. This also gave me a lower finished profile with a bit more room foward actually increasing the storage foward about one and one half inches since this cause the planks to take a different bend. To make up for a one inch shortfall in the freeboard with the increased angle I increased the width of my last plank, the sheerplank to gain back the freeboard too. I still need to install the rubrails so this will shorten the appearance of the plank. But this also will give me a bit more space for the number boards which needs to be 3 3/4" wide for the 3 inch numbers, giving me a small border all the way around them. WIth the other hull, the number boards just made it. I may end up with a small steering helm on the side since reaching the tiller handle when I repositioned the seat thwart in the old boat foward when in the boat by myself to shift some weight foward is a bit much for this old guy to sustain with his aged back. Its doable though. SO we shall see when the guy thats getting this hull begins to use it. Steve, I hope things are well with you and your family and the transplant is holding good.
  9. This is my present project, a 12 foot look alike Simmons I originally built for a roomy liteweight tender and found that the original boat was an incredible gunkhole boat and had a request for another one as a gift. The boat works fine with an 8 hp four stroke Yamaha engine and carries two people with plenty of room for fishing gear and cooler too. Thanks
  10. I have a simular setup with two chain falls from ceiling joices. I actually use a line with a spreader bar across the rails thats notched to keep the line in place and use a hook with a roller installed on it to the chain fall and let the line roll in a circle as the boat rolls over. This is a bit tricky as it rolls. But it can accomplished by one guy with a bit of care.
  11. Yep, just thought I would pop back with the normal lead ins you know, :-[ since I have some projects going on, one up and coming B&B design along with two Simmons projects and my new dinghy design and was looking for some boat talk. Hope this post finds all you guys warm and your epoxy flowing nicely since we only have three months till springtime, even though we are still catching fish and sailing every chance we get.
  12. I would like to say hi and introduce myself. I am new to boats and in the process of building a 12 foot of my own design. I hope that it will not sink when I place it in the water. I have a lot of questions and after reading this forum for a while think that you guys can answer my questions.
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