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Oyster

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Everything posted by Oyster

  1. Long term, I am not a fan of using epoxy for clear finishes. The wood darkens and any dings or stripping the woods which may occur for several reasons or even patching the finish will give you a fit. I have tried all sorts of new age clear coats and still go right back to spar varnishes for the long haul and look for clear finishes and redos if you plan on keeping your finishes clear. In numerous instances, many people will decide to just paint the work over time instead of messing with the keeping the look. This is not always the case for northern hulls or hulls kept under wraps and used as an occasional "sunday" boating trip when everything is ideal, which is not always the case for me anyway.
  2. I wondered if anyone in the general two state area would reply to that one, as it looked like a decent deal without all the work that would you on the water this sumer .
  3. Some finish sewing of the elastic trim work on the mattress pad and its on the road. How many hours????? Lets just say ........ But fun indeed!!!
  4. He would have another smaller one to show in this style if he would remember us little hull guys now and get to cutting the jigs. [tongue planted firmly against check] Yes he has become quite a guy with the outerbanks builders!!!! Thats one heck of a boat, and I hope mine will turn out as nice. People have no idea how much time is required in hours of rubbing, in turn dollars to get such a shape to such a high level of finish work. Look closely at the curved step all the way around the interior of the hull running foward.
  5. I used 4mm Occume. All of the components are also made so it can be taken apart, using stainless steel machine bolts and lock washers. The cross member was tapered a bit at the ends so this makes it easy to be removed after the pieces sit together for a while. The center piece for the davit is meranti plywood and the outsides are occume. The cross piece is two pieces of glued occume. The solid timber is mahogany. Steve I will give you a call when we leave town. Sorry to hear about Gina's mother.
  6. Don't let anyone tell you that small boats can be built in a weekend or two. Now on to the rigging and finish sanding and painting. Launch date is close!!!!!!
  7. http://www.messing-about.com/forums/index.php?topic=5980.msg50561#msg50561 first off check out this thread for some small motor talk. If you need some help associated with a motor listed, let me know. Small motors are hard to come by as I dealt with small engine weights and sizes with my little runabout in 12 foot. In the mean time, we sailed today, all day to some changing winds, from lite and variable to almost 18 knots. What a refreshing time on the water. We have sailed every single month in the last 12 months, but are awaiting fishing season again. We are down to about three packs of freshly frozen fish, but still have shrimp to finish. Work it into your schedule for a spring trip with the family!!
  8. This one is for my new grandson expected to launch March 22, plus or minus. We may give you a call on the way through your area.
  9. Those guys are pretty salty to say the least. But I digress. I challenge those guys to a new model for extreme challenges, conquering the elements with my new model. I do need some suggestions on the types of paint from the leading experts here on extreme boating in small craft, ;)before I add the varnished rails to the new model. I think a couple of you guys also have some experience in this particular area.
  10. http://www.capizzano.com/Semana_de_Mar_del_Plata_2008/ Check this out!!!!
  11. Was the runny fillets done with the bottom half of the mix? Sometimes in a confined container and thickening the epoxy, on the top half of the mix gets mixed thicker than on the bottom of the container. Pull your blend from the bottom and scrape the mixing stick along the inside of your containers clearing it and then then begin to mix again. This may be the cause of the runnier glue.
  12. Yes being on the water for the past twelve months at least a day each month with many months even during the winter four to five days, makes for a nice up and coming celebration on the white sandy beachheads for lunch. Anybody around here using their boats and wish to share some shots of your world?
  13. Gee there are no perfects in boating and boats. You either own a power boat or a sailboat. Even power boats deal with never enough fuel or never enough room for even the proper amount of fuel that needs to be carried for a particular engine size. What it always comes down to is folks attempt to put ten pounds of potatoes in a five pound bag. Now as far as disposal of old gas and oil related products, I personally subscribe to satuating sawdust in an open washtub. let sit for a day and then sit on fire, or use to start my burn pile. Of course I can burn where I live but this may not be the case with some of you folks that live in those gated communities. Get cat litter if you do not have any sawdust and please do not pour on the ground. Some of us eat fish and drink the water from the runoff of all the residue when it rains. And for those that live where there is not rain, when it does rain after long periods of drought, the runoff is pretty darn toxic. The roads are also very sliperry from the build up of slime.
  14. Okay, lets see if this works. Gosh I feel stupider as the days go by.
  15. Hum I have tried to upload a photo again to the host site thats listed on here and continue to come up empty handed today. It states that its not avaliable and links me off to a simular front main page for the messingabout website. Anyhow, I use a three gallon fuel tank under the foward cap on my little 12 footer that measures 18" long, x 9 inches wide, x 10" plus or minus to the top of the fill cap, made by Tempo. Frank, thats funny!!!
  16. There is a two year warranty on those engines, a big plus. I would hate to think about how many hours I have spent seeking out small engines buying it for several hundred dollars only to find that I must also spend the equivilant of the purchase price to fix the engine to working order. I could have just gone out and purchased a new one. Live and learn, or so it goes...
  17. The weather will clear and once again over the next few weekends may include this diversion. And YOU??? http://www.leebuck.blogspot.com/
  18. I attempted to add a couple of shots to the photo linking thats provided and it comes up that its not avaliable. But I will add a couple of shots that shows the sizes for anyone looking for a nice and small kicker motor, which is so hard to come by or has been my experience. Only you would notice the suttle details of how a boat sits in the water, same as any other boat owner seeing what may appear to be some flaw. Looks fine to me. Your boat's time on the water speaks for the success itself no matter what off angle you think you have in it.
  19. That is one pretty boat. You took a simple build and added a lot of touches which has always been the fun part of doing one offs. When boats like that hits the ramps, its really hard to get past the folks lurking and launch them. If I was in your shoes, I moght be pressed to bite the bullet and really consider the Torpedo electric engine which by published reports they are equvilant to two hp engines and are supposely easily stowed away.I have seen them for about 1300 bucks and quite possibly can be bought less. Also I have ask it I could also try the engine to see how the motor will actually perform since the sales are not going that swell because of the price by comparison. But I also see huge advantages with the self contained unit for an absolute auxillary motor and not a motor to cruise the waters..
  20. The measurement that I posted for the evinrude was for the new 3.5, not my foldup one. My fold up one folded is 23 1/2" long and the shaft folds up within in its width. The overall width is 35 inches plus or minus a half an inch or so. The Honda is speced out for a 20 inch shaft, but most foreign engines are anothe two inches, or has been my experience versus the American ones in the smaller hp.
  21. The Honda overall length is 45 inches x 16 with the control handle and 16 wide. The evinrude 3.5 is 39 inches x 12 x 16"
  22. WOW! Maybe I should buy this one. Scott I have a new 3 hp litetwin with the fold up lower unit complete with the suitcase, just like it came from the factory that was found in an attic in an old dealer. That one also has a built in tank on top. I have only used it one time since it did not meet me requirments and have kept it for the heck of it. But it could go away, too. ;)I don't think its as lite as the 17 lbs. though. The engine is a new used one that from what I understand has not been run since 2004. It was used on a flounder skiff but did not work out. He also has the 3.5 johnson two stroke with the built in tank on top thats priced at 650. The Honda is priced at 700. [sorry Ken.] If you wish I can see what it would take to buy it since I also know that in all probabilty the carb. will need to be taken apart, or would be my thought. It looks like a new motor out of the box.
  23. The Honda is a new used one that I am talking about. What price are the new ones? What would you pay for a new used one, supposely used about two hours?
  24. There is a local dealer with some of the smaller 3 hp or 3.5 hp Evinrudes for about 500 bucks and even a 2 hp Honda avaliable. I did not measure the shaft, but it does appear that they are longer than 15 inches. Most motors under six hp are nothing more than the lawn mower motors in the four strokes, some being air cooled even in the named brands.
  25. Yes Frank, I let it dry to touch. Its important that you do not have needle [points or highs since they will snag the fabric or will create an uneven roller head. Let me ramble on a bit, going around my elbow to get to my thumb. In the beginning of doing some composite building with foams and some hulls that require the combination of two unlike components for its strength, I found that many of these layups would indeed end up with the issues of air and excessive amounts of resin when just rolling out resins with a roller in the beginning. In foam core layups without a vacumn bag process, I also would lather up the foam with some slurry mix, barely blending in some cabosil. I began using sheetrock trowels and concrete finishing ones to spread and compress and minimize these issues. But on decks inside of skiffs, this was not a method that I could use since I could not reach most of the areas over the rails. In matt instances without excessive amounts of resin, which was used in many of the redos of fliberglass decks, as a rule new rollers do not work in the wetout. The fin ones are fine but do not deal with moving large amounts of resin across a larger area in fabric wetouts in a uniform manner as well as the larger diameter hardened ones, which I learned could do when using faster hardeners in warmer climates. Also I found myself epoxy sensitive and require to be way away from it now even though in some cases I must use it and will swap brands from time to time and hardeners in a attempt to fool my skin and minimize the issues that come with the epoxy rash, too. This is another resin I switched over from the trowels and found this method a much more user friendly method for me, which the roller frames can have the long handles which also gives some some added leverage to the ends. Keep in mind that less is better when it comes to the resin to glass ratio, meaning that resin actually weakens the layup when in excess and has been known to fatigue over time in some high stress areas causing cracks too in the finish work and in some delamination. The fine line of satuation is also really critical now for several reasons, one being the costs involved of the products. Another issue for me is the redo of the surface on cured resin. For me personally, I use the slowest hardener even in the dead of winter time. In these larger layups as I get older and wiser I use tropical hardeners if avaliable with the resins because I can recoat several times and work out any outgassing issues in climate changes from daytime to nighttimes, and continue on with the green stage of resin and finally on most bottoms I also have had great success with the barrier coats right on the green resins without touching the glass surface at all. Of course trim edges may need to be faired in sometimes. If you look at the line along the glass work on the side to the first lap, you will see a color change which is the biaxall is short and the finish cloth overlays the glass and with the matt and rough cut edge of the biaxall, I can compress the ruffled fabric to make that transition without having air pockets with the height difference created by the glass thickness. In this case also I did not want to also have high areas at the gain ends of the hull either. The key to all of this is the proper dry fitting of your glass and keeping a good pair of scissors handy when rolling out my glass onto the wetted surface and cutting any streemers away so the glass does not continue to unravel causing issues of highs and lows in the surface that without additional fairing, shows up under topcoats too. I know many subscribe to the idea of wet down through glass, so all this maybe not apply to these folks. I personally do not like that method because I hate and literally dispise wasted resin and dealing with runs and pinhole air pockets. This method is a combination of wet up through the glass for about 90 percent of the job and then a small finish coat to finish the wetout when the starved strands show up. I also in the initial roll out will just allow the glass to sit for a bit and the resin will continue to wet areas that appear to be dry or semi dry before applying larger amounts than needed only to remove the excess from some runs or puddles that will form. I want to see a nice uniform color change in the print, all of it, in the initial satuation and wetout, nothing more or nothing less.. This is my ramble and only my opinion, and may not reflect others peoples observations and methods that work for them.
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