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Alan Stewart

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Everything posted by Alan Stewart

  1. Looks good from here. Personally i think the rudder will be fine with a layer of glass on it. You could rip it in half vertically and glue in a stick of wood which would add stiffness. Sort of like a spine. A solid wood rudder blade is stiffer since all the wood fibers run one direction of course unlike plywood but then again on this boat the loads on the rudder are miniscule. You are more likely to break it by accidentally stepping on it or backing the boat into something with the rudder up.
  2. There are pros and cons to pre-coating. For this boat in particular I think it's a wash to "pre-coat" the actual hull panels because then they require sanding to prep for assembly and taping. There are many areas on this boat that can be coated and finished without ever picking up a sanding tool for example in all of the flotation tanks (seat tanks) after taping these areas can simply be coated with 3 coats of epoxy and done no sanding needed. Many of us however choose to sand after the first or second coat in these areas just so the final coats are smoother since epoxy tends to soak in and raise the grain slightly. I have found that sanding the plywood with 150or 220 grit and vacuuming the wood prior to coating helps that a lot. In other areas this is the best practice and or even required like underneath the seat tops. For the underside of the seat tops I like to apply a nice heavy coat while it is flat and then within the curing window, apply another coat right before gluing it down.
  3. Small inspections ports up to 8" into all compartments is not a bad idea. On badly built Spindrifts they would keep the boat alive for many more years. One boat we worked on the underside of the seat tops and inside the lockers was never coated and it rotted from the inside out. A major rebuild. If properly coated however and sealed well, I think even with no inspection ports the boat should last indefinitely so long as everything is well sealed. The ports need not necessarily serve for storage but rather just for "airing out" when the boat is stored. If I were going to put ports into the longitudinal bulkheads I would use Beckson DP-6 screw in type. We sell them for $19 a piece. I just checked on duckworks for pricing and it looks like they've got a new seadog one. https://www.duckworks.com/product-p/sd-335745-parent.htm could be good also.
  4. Just had a very nice and socially distanced pickup of CS-15 #162 kit. Ted came with many great questions and we thoroughly enjoyed seeing another human being. Especially one with such great taste in boats.
  5. Yes, I would install the blocks just behind the dovetail joint glass. A 2-3" square piece of 3/4" plywood is ideal. One on each side. We pre-drill the top one so the screw falls through and grabs the bottom one and pulls them together.
  6. In case you did not see here is some video of the bow joint. Here is a picture of how to do it from the Core Sound 17 Mark 3 plans. I need to add this sheet for the spindrifts as well but soon we hope to build another spindrift and video the entire process. Naturally, use the dimension shown for the S12 plans for the stern ends for the panel alignment. It is not necessary to fiberglass the finger scarf joints (these) after gluing them together. Hope that helps!
  7. The PFD setup that I use in expedition events like the Watertribe Everglades Challenge meets the Watertribe required equipment but has also evolved to work best for me as a small boat sailor. I feel strongly that everyone should wear a PFD at all times on small boats and if you have the means the next most important piece of gear you should invest in is a small modern EPIRB like the one shown. They are so cheap these days and small and unobtrusive it's very cheap insurance for us small boat sailors especially if you sail by yourself! Here is some more info about this now on our website. https://bandbyachtdesigns.com/blog/setting-up-a-pfd-for-small-boat-sailing/ Enjoy.
  8. Sure, you could do that if you wanted. Just be careful not to crack the wood with screws. You could also glue the stringer on with the side panels cambered/bowed inward a bit like a pre-bend. I've never tried that but can't see the harm so long as you did both side panels that way equally. Probably just makes gluing them on harder though. You could also just leave the forward ends of the side stringers loose like stop the glue say 4' back from the fwd end of the stringer and then after the boat is folded up, pull the stringer away a bit and squirt glue in there and glue the fwd section in post-folding. Probably all of that is overthinking it because the bend on the S12 just isn't that severe not like the smaller Spindrifts. In the first 6 feet it's only 4 3/4" of camber.
  9. Good questions. I can see how that is confusing. The top figure in the sheet you attached is intended more for boats built from plans. In this case the boat is folded up before the side stringer is installed and the stringer is glued in after the fact due to the difficulty in drawing the stringers location accurately on the flat panel. We now show a plan sheet with dimensions for the stringer referencing the edges of the side panel but still say to glue it in after folding. In the past it was marked on the inside of the hull with a straight edge laid across the longitudinal bulkheads after they were fitted. In this case the forward bulkhead is already in place so the side stringer is ended at the bulkhead for simplicity and to ease the bending of the stringer that inside forward portion is trimmed off as the figure shows. Now we have the kit version. For the boat built from the kit, the stringer location is drawn perfectly onto the hull panels so the stringer can be confidently glued to the side panel first which saves it having to be done in situ (a little easier of a job). In this case we bevel the stringer and then glue it down. Then it is tapered down to zero to ease bending the bow part and eliminate the potential of a hard spot. The stringer goes through the fwd bulkhead in this case. The extra 7 degrees of bevel as the stringer transitions forward is fairly minor and i think it's fine to just glue it down with just the 10 degree bevel and then simply tweak the top surface with a block plane after the boat is folded up. The difference in angle makes for only about 3/32" or so variation with gluing down the seat tops which is very easily filled up with thickened epoxy. On the smaller Spindrift 9,10 and 11 it's a lot easier to bend the side panels without the stringer in place and then install it afterward but on the 12 it's no problem. The last S11 kit we did a test fold up for a boat show with the stringer pre-glued and the bend was a bit too much for the piece just behind the forward bulkhead and it "kinked' on the inside right where we'd used a drywall screw to hold it while gluing forming an ugly hard spot on the outside of the hull. The screw hole clearly weakened the wood ever so slightly but that particular piece of wood chosen for that stringer wasn't too good either which highlights that the side stringers should have nice straight grain with no runout especially in the forward half of the boat.
  10. Hey Crazer, Thanks for sharing your build with us! I can answer your last question. The Two paw 8 design underwent a small face-lift at the end of last year. I think you got your plans just before this. In this face-lift we added the forward bulkhead and the rear triangular shaped "aft seat tanks" to the kit version of the Two Paw 8 in an effort to add some buoyancy to the kit boat. Then a few months after that we added these details to the plans. Not big changes mind you but that explains the difference you see in your plan sheets. I can send you the updated plan sheets if you would like for the cost of printing and postage but I don't want you to worry that yours are "lesser". You can easily pattern a forward bulkhead at the aft edge of the forward seat which is what I would recommend doing anyway that is assuming you'd like to also have the forward compartment. You'll note that Don fashioned his own custom seat which is very hansom and not at all in the plans either. Custom mods are what it's all about with a home build. There are disadvantages of the extra stuff. mainly, extra weight!
  11. Padre, Welcome to the forum! Got your kit right here. Well its getting close anyway. I'm sure we will see hull #162 folded up in no time with the encouragment of this lot. -Alan
  12. Joe, We first heard the Jim was being closely monitored when we arrived at Checkpoint 2 we didn't get any more info than that until Checkpoint 3 when I think we heard that the CG was searching. Also we heard that no one had heard from Ron and Mike (SwampMonkee and Chainsaw) who are very experienced and on a Tornado Cat so it was strange that they hadn't checked in and I was actually more worried about them for a time since they had no cabin and I imagined their boat flipped, broke and all gear inoperable. Yeah, we did stop more than other years for sleep but in each case for good reason. In total we stopped and anchored for sleep 3 times. Off Sanibel on night 1 for about 4 hours I think. Then just outside of CP2 for about 10 hours (boy that was nice). And finally on middle cape with Greybeard and ChefRamen (as seen in the pics) for about 4 hours.
  13. Just published this video in memory of Sailorman aka Jim Slauson who sadly was lost this year during the EC. If you are not aware, please read this article.
  14. Fear not. There seem to be two versions (both called EZ-IN 2 apparently) and i think some are confusing these. There is the "compact" version which is about $225 and can be purchase on amazon by anyone. Just added to the B&B Store (link below). Then there is the "integrated" which seems to be about $688!!!. I don't think any of us are looking at that one intentionally. compact version currently $225 https://bandbyachtdesigns.com/garelick-manufacturing-19700-compact-eez-in-ii-transom-ladder/ integrated $688 https://www.fisheriessupply.com/garelick-eez-in-ii-integrated-concelaed-transom-ladder And the obligatory note for affiliate links... "If you buy an items using our Amazon link it means that B&B might receive an small commission from that item should you decide to purchase with zero additional cost to you. Yes really! Thank you for supporting us! "
  15. Put another way, if you glass the outside with cloth then you dont need tape on the chine. The cloth does the job. The keel needs 2 layers so overlapping the cloth does the job. Any stainless piano hinge will do the job. Short screws to attach. You might have to grind the tips off to keep them poking through or use longer screws and... drill, screw, remove screws, cut and gring them down, reinstall. Ive been wanting to try those rubber hatch closures lately. Or a hasp and staple latch. Maybe like this. https://images.app.goo.gl/yHu2tkTiAtrBq9Ny6
  16. Thanks for the pics. Looking good from here. On the chine joint we only specify a single layer of 10oz tape because the fiberglass reinforcement only needs to be as strong as the thickness of plywood it's reinforcing. So in the case of the chine joint a single layer is sufficient because the side panel is only 6mm plywood. In the case of the keel joint, we are joining two layers of 12mm plywood so we use 2 layers of 10oz tape across the joint due to the added strength needed to match the strength of the plywood. On the outside of the boat the required glass is the same as the inside so when you sheath the exterior in 10oz glass all that is required is a single layer over the chine (don't forget to make it smooth and rounded for the glass to wrap the corner well). When you get to the keel line, overlap the keel by about 1 1/2" this way when you glass the other side and do the same overlap of the keel you now have the required 2 layers of glass on the exterior of the keel joint.
  17. Test embed of a google album of Nick's CS-20 from this years messabout. https://photos.app.goo.gl/z3GXbdQNEERWDMMN8
  18. I've got an album here that has some video of how I do it. I screw side 1 down to a scrap piece of flat 3/4" ply with plastic underneath. Then first coat with neat epoxy the edges of the fingers. Then, with fingers spaced about 1" apart, fill it up with thickened epoxy using a putty knife. Then push together then screw the second side down. Add screws if needed in specific spots to push a non-cooperative finger down. Don't squeeze between boards as this offers no way to A: ensure the fingers are lined up or B: clean up the squeeze out. This wastes a fair amount of glue but it's important to get 100% fill of the joint. If you have multiple finger joint lined up to do at once then you can re-use the squeeze out for the next one in line. https://photos.app.goo.gl/GSJM4KiecSW5upM86
  19. I didn't think "missing centerboard" either and I still don't. And it wouldn't make sense either as the up-haul line AND the pivot bolt would both have to be cut/removed for the board to be missing else we would see the board dangling by a line. In the picture of the boat after it capsized the view of the trunk I see as consistent with the board just being completely retracted. Even if there was a bumper installed at the top of the trunk I wouldn't really expect to see any of the board except maybe a glimpse of the very fwd part which I think i see. It's certainly a wake-up call to anyone who takes their boat out alone.
  20. Here is a test slide Graham just made. Destructive testing to follow.
  21. I only had some breif interactions with Jim on the start beach this year but he took that time to thank me for helping him via email with rigging questions he'd had as he got the boat ready for the event. I somewhat regret that i didnt have all my gear 100% squared away at the time and so was also mostly head down packing etc like most other blearey eyed participants. I would have liked to get a tour of his boat or talk to him further and as a veteran of the event I ought to be more squared away but we joke that everyone packs last minute. Anyway, Jim had added a furling code zero kit to the boat for this year as well as a tiller extension and done a lot of work repainting the decks, tabernacle and reworking the tiller which was customized by original builder and made in aluminum. Its hard that we will never know the sequence of events that caused his dissapearance.
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