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Alan Stewart

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Everything posted by Alan Stewart

  1. Yeah, Chick that trick really works!!! couldn't believe it. So I guess the darn thing needed a little priming bulb all this time.
  2. A few more pics added to the album. here https://photos.app.goo.gl/AyA94oj8gcvfVes77
  3. Here are some pictures from the cruise https://photos.app.goo.gl/AyA94oj8gcvfVes77
  4. You should see Graham Shortly. Here is a link to his spot Tracker. http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0rHV7uRsIrA70G3AZ0dslOpt3fiTW79jj
  5. Graham is putting his finishing touches on Jeanie today.
  6. If you've every though your B&B boats rigging was too complicated like the Core Sound 20 mark 3 for example with reefing lines lead back to the cockpit. I submit into evidence the following rigging draft for the Class Globe 5.80 that Don posted to facebook to put it into perspective. Our rigging only scratches the surface of what "spaghetti" looks like.
  7. I have some video from my Core sound 20 mark 3 build that has another example of glassing the bottom. While is a larger area I don't think it's more difficult to do. My most current preferred and order of operations is... -sand the bottom as you've done. -Fill in all the little voids -lay down the glass cloth (immediately after previous step so no sanding) -spread epoxy to soak in and squeegee off any excess. There will be a lot of glass texture. -Finally Squeegee on a layer of micro-sphere (easily sanded fairing filler) thickened epoxy to fill the weave within the curing window of previous step. The best trick for working with big pieces of glass is to not try to remove wrinkles at the site of the wrinkle. That is hopeless. Instead move to the edges and grip a short section of edge maybe a dozen fibers or so and slowly pull them and watch the wrinkle magically disappear. Move to the other edge, locate where the fibers for the wrinkle you want gone run out of the piece and pull in that spot. presto wrinkles gone.
  8. That is lucky, when they don't come off and you just start pulling they can wedge on there forever. I've had some i had to walk away from after doing that and using all manner of icicle hitch, come-along, tractor, tree etc etc.
  9. They may in fact work i.e. be strong enough but they are a totally different spar to the sprit. The sprit is in compression like a spinnaker pole. The maximum loads are in the middle when it is slightly deflected from a straight line which is how the ends can be tapered without weakening it. By comparison a windurfer mast is just like our freestanding masts and never in compression only bending so the tip normally sees almost no loads and the base sees the max loading (neglecting the booms). So it may work but one end will be extra fat for no reason. If you had a few you could cut the tops off and join them to make one that tapers out from the center in both directions that would make a pretty nice sprit.
  10. Congrats on the launch! Yup, always carry a bailer probably more so with the nesting version. Were you able to re-board after righting or just swam it in?
  11. Padre, Thank you for sharing. What a heartwarming post. My best wishes to you and your family! We are humbled by the continued support or our loyal builders. Thank you. -Alan
  12. Don, thats awesome! I just put that plan on the site last week. Glad it worked for you with the paper templates. Thanks for sharing.
  13. Don, You caught us, we prototyped the new version but then dropped the ball a bit on it and I haven't got the final version in kit form. We have a few big jobs on the list this month but its on our short list along with finishing those windvane plans.
  14. Get a roll of plastic sleeve and slide it over the piece and plumb steam into the end and steam the whole thing in the long bag. Bend on and steam in place as well. Tips from a shipwright has some good videos on this on youtube.
  15. With the S11,10 and 9 yes they have screws into the breashook but the S12 with the full foredeck overhanging the gunwales provides more glue area to prevent them from possibly moving. That said it wouldnt hurt to have a couple of permanent ss screws into the mast collar piece. One thing to watch out for is if you put a nice roundover on the tip of the bow gunwales to make sure that is taken into account when placing screws near the ends.
  16. You can also buy devoe devthane 379 in many colors now. A cheap alternative to awlgrip. Painted pretty much all of my boats with it so far and they look like the day I did it (minus the dings) https://www.devoesuperstore.com/devoe-urethane-2/
  17. Sometimes I think it is because of our knack for leaving out details in the plans is really because we enjoy answering forum questions and emails so much! In reality, customer service should always be at the top! You are correct that these parts are all butt blocks. The Parts sheet shows the location somewhat by process of elimination. I will make a note that we need a little more indication in the plan sheets. 24A is for the side decks 25B goes between the side decks and foredeck. (just a bit of foredeck overhangs the fwd bulkhed) 26A and B are for the aft center and amidships seat top joints 27A are for underneath the fore and aft center thwarts connecting the bit of seat top that sticks inboard to join up with the thwart panel and the center panel itself.
  18. I wold be looking to install a set of simple hiking straps fore and aft int he cockit if you wanted to hike out. Most cockpit dinghies have them like a piece of 3" padded webbing to put your feet under. some have one on each side. Just need an anchor point fore and aft which could be an eye strap into the keel or vertical transom beam or on the fwd side of the bolts for the lower gudgeon and up forward it could just loop around the front of the daggerboard trunk with a small eye strap to keep it from riding up the front edge of the trunk.
  19. Boat looks great so far. Congratulations! And also, married?!?! that is cool too.
  20. If only those pesky plans would update themselves!
  21. Yes this was the idea. new design for the CNC cut daggers. The little cleats are prone to breaking off if not don't right and this prevents that and you can't jam your fingers. That was the idea anyway.
  22. This is usually caused by the resin "crystalizing" in the jug and then the crystals get sucked up in the pump and cause it to lose vacuum. The solution is to heat the whole thing up to re melt the crystals. All resins do this. We do it in the microwave, squeeze some air out of the jig so you don't pressurize it, put the cap on and microwave it for 60 seconds at the time checking in between. usually takes about 5-6 minutes. You can't microwave the spring of the pump of course so you might have to clean it again. Also check that the white plunger is making good contact with the inside walls of the clear plastic tube on the inside, sometimes ive been able to "spread" out the plunger rim with my fingernail a bit to widen it and it makes better contact with the inside of the tube. give it a try. Some just order new resin but it is doable. I keep my epoxy in the garage at 80 deg and haven't had any issues for months now. I got a call from another builder today who said he keeps his on a heat pad at 60 deg and his started crystalizing after a few months.
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