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Alan Stewart

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Everything posted by Alan Stewart

  1. Updated. Graham came back to the shop yesterday afternoon because his depth sounder was damaged when we launched the boat and we didn't notice it!
  2. Graham made it into Core Sound early this morning and looks to be tucked in maybe having breakfast out of the wind. Forecast is 7 knots from the east and pretty steady, building slightly tonight and shifting a bit to the north east.
  3. Graham left the shop on his OB-20 Jeanie yesterday for a few days of much deserved vacation and fishing time. His plan is to visit Drum inlet. He has his spot tracker and you can see his location with this link. https://maps.findmespot.com/s/H6M4 Yesterday evening he called in to report that he was dropping anchor just west of Thoroughfare canal. Tomorrow he will poke his way across Core Sound. Here is a quick clip of him leaving for the OBX130 a while back. This is what it looked like yesterday On wednesday we took the boat over to Cedar island to recover a fellow watertribers kayak from his NCC adventures. (read about that here). On that trip we used about a half tank of gas for about 50nm with an average speed of about 18 knots. We worked that out to about 3nm per gallon at that speed. We are looking into getting a sensitive fuel flow meter so we can figure out her most economical cruise speed but the Evinrude has been running great.
  4. Thanks Joe! Yeah I am considering modifying the existing amas.
  5. That photo is from back in this years EC. Pre covid. Those were the days. Here is my gps trip comp. Only 80 nn.
  6. With the weather for Thurs looking ugly the already "virtual" event is opened up to starting early. One competitor has already begun. Clean Slate just entered Adams Creek at this writing. 830pm Tues. Challengers can opt to go through Adam's Creek instead of Harlowe Canal if they want to (because, 2020). This year to start your race you hit your SPOT OK message at the designated start coordinate anytime you want. That starts your official race time. I am racing in my Red Expedition Sailing Canoe or ESC (Escape). The same boat I raced in the 2016 UFC. The boat has been itching for another challenge ever since. I will be leaving early morning tomorrow Wednesday on my trip around. Follow the race using the challenge mapper here. There should be about 12-15 racers this here. Here is the roster. Note that I still show up as racing in the EC-22 but I changed to the sailing canoe last minute. I have my GOPRO camera and can hopefully get some good video during the race. Picture below from the finish of the UFC 2016.
  7. A note to all Messabout Participants. It's just a few days away! Thanks to the pandemic we have a few changes to the "normal" messabout way of doing things this year as we all do our part to prevent the spread and keep everyone safe. So if you plan to attend or come by the shop this year please help us keep everyone safe. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1BMf9guIQkXXohcXePT2pWT1urVg2zqwHsE_V2_nVN0g/edit?usp=sharing
  8. Really like those stern bucket seats in the corners. Great pictures guys!
  9. Builders choice I think. The masts sections can be left loose or glued together. If made to be take apart then the bushings have to be wrapped and sanded to fit.
  10. I just checked this. They are actually the same beam the S12 is basically a stretched S11. But in actual fact I am pretty sure (Graham correct me) the S12 came first. I corrected the beam dimensions. S12 is 4' 7" plus or minus a few plane strokes.
  11. I hate that we're still waiting on your sails. I've been on their case about it. So sorry for the delay! Thank you for your great posts and kind words. You are an inspiring builder.
  12. Yeah, looks like a sweet model. You'd need a shrink ray to ride in it. 90% sure.
  13. This is the foam that Randy and Bobbie used on their Spendthrift it's really nice stuff. I bought it for my trimaran and it worked great. (disclosure note: this is an amazon affiliate link) https://amzn.to/3hIxajZ
  14. Just checked. No doubler under the corner radii on the S12 here at the shop. I think that little black thingy is a bug of some kind.
  15. On the Spindrift 12 some have probably doubled up those radii but I am pretty sure I've only seen it shown in Graham's design on the CS-17 and 20 and I added it to the CS-15 kit as well. It does give the ability to put a larger round-over on those edges.
  16. All muscle Don. Nate has been known to carry 2 or 3 sheets of 3/4 ply around under each arm to keep things interesting.
  17. Q: Is the plywood rudder strong enough? A: Yes* This morning we have some empirical test results to share. We just cut out Erik's new rudder today and we took the opportunity to look at the 18mm meranti plywood we use for the CNC cut rudder blades. Pictures attached show a test using our lovely assistant Nate who clocks in at 240lbs today. The test piece is a virgin piece of 18mm meranti marine plywood, 8 5/8" wide and the thickness is 0.707" (the closest handy piece of scrap). At 15" from the supported edge of our deck the ply showed roughly 2" deflection and no audible complaint. i.e. no cracking sounds. A slight amount of permanent deflection (about 1/16" was noticed after the test). Note that this width of full thickness ply (and then some) are present in the CNC cut rudder for exactly that reason. The outer veneer running vertical along the blade provides a lot of strength to the ply and I suspect that it would have broken during our test if we had scored through it with a razor blade. Ok, some calculations....Using the dimensions of the scrap I calculate the maximum bending stress to be approximately 5,000psi during the test. Meranti is listed at 12,700psi. I suspect the plywood however to be about half the strength of a piece of solid meranti for obvious reasons. * While 300 ft*lbs is many times more bending moment than the rudder will ever see while sailing in normal conditions, it is nearly impossible to account for all unknowns and I have often said that if a boat will be damaged it will more that likely happen when the boat is sitting on the trailer which I have seen over and over again.
  18. Erik, I am sorry to see that. All of our plywood rudders are meant to be fiberglassed with 8-10oz fiberglass cloth. Plywood is used for the rudders for the kit boats because it is dimensional stable and saves a lot of time in construction but half of the grain runs the wrong way as compared to a laminated solid wood rudder built in the same way as the centerboard. To compensate for this the plywood rudders should be glassed on both sides. I would not attempt to repair that rudder. Instead I would simply build a new one. One challenge may be that glassing the new rudder will make it too thick to fit into the cheeks unless there is sufficient gap already. We would be glad to send you a CNC cut rudder blank. Please feel free to contact me. bandbkitboats@gmail.com or 252-631-0015 if you need any help at all.
  19. Rudder looks ok to me. Hmm. On a beat the mizzen acts even more in the mains backwash which is why it sometimes feels on the verge of luffing. Sheeting it in harder is the natural reaction but this imbalances the forces. Causing weather helm. I wonder if this explains your helm? On the EC in our CS-20 i often experimented with the best trim on a beat. I found that keeping the boat perfectly balanced when trying to point (i.e. not sheeting in the mizzen more even when i could see it on the verge of luffing) was ever so slightly slower in light air. So i would sheet in the mizzen just a touch and have a bit of helm as you should have when pointing. Over do it and the extra rudder needed slows you back down so there is a balance. Staring at your VMG on a gps is the only way to know what is best, fastest.
  20. Frank, I modeled 10 deg of mizzen rake (see below) and that seems like a LOT. as you said measurement error possibly. Do you have a current profile picture of the boat sitting in the water with masts up. If you get me a decent side picture from a ways off (like 10 boat lenghts or so then we can measure the rake in the photo very easily in Rhino. 10 deg would certainly cause weather helm. I am also suspicious of the rudder as this could cause what feels like weather helm if it's not going down all the way. Maybe try putting it down while the boat is on the trailer and send us a side picture of that as well. Or just make sure it's going down fully. The mizzen will easily overpower the rudder in any breeze and if the rudder is raked back in the cheeks just the slightest bit then the pressure from the mizzen will be amplified until the point that you'll be holding the tiller with all your might with both hands. I've had to sail through parts of florida bay like that before.
  21. I think im going to try treating my mast tubes with an alodine cromate conversion coating. They make a "clear" alodine coating. This is a chem process like used on unpainted small aircraft. Or as a treatment before painting. The chemicals are a bit icky but its just brushed on or dipped and then rinsed off. The regular alodine leaves the aluminum a golden color which i dont think i want. If it works then i wont paint them just leave metallic. I spoke to a guy recently who was in the mast and later aircraft business and this is what they do. There are lots of youtube vids on it mostly for prepping homemade aircraft for painting.
  22. Page 136 of "the book" covers bonding fasteners and resin bushing holes. https://www.westsystem.com/wp-content/uploads/GougeonBook-061205-1.pdf An excellent practice for all hardware on a wood boat. If all bolts and screws are drilled, filled, and drilled then all the better for preventing water from getting to the wood and causing swelling which will crack an epoxy joint in no time. Especially watch out for fasteners into long pieces of solid wood such as the transom beam. For bedding compound I use butyl rubber and make a little doughnut of it around the washer of my fastener or on the contact pad of the piece of hardware. It oozes out nicely, seals the joint and does not harden. Same stuff they used to install windows in RVs. This much would least you for years and years. Store it in a plastic bag because it does dry out a little after the first year or so (like play dough). https://www.amazon.com/White-Butyl-Tape-Mobile-Single/dp/B07BJLHH24/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=butyl+tape&qid=1593041102&sr=8-5 They also make a butyl rubber caulk which is more pasty for bedding things with more surface area where the tape which is more or a soft pliable rubber would be too stiff to be squeezed by the fasteners. So for something like the Eye bolt I'd use butyl rubber or nothing because it would only leak into the anchor well or onto the deck so it doesn't really need to be watertight. Also be very careful when installing hardware not to crank down mindlessly on the nut our you will simply crush the wood and and thus crack the epoxy seal. I try to never use power drivers to install fasteners to the final tightness because it's so easy to over torque them.
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