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Alan Stewart

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Everything posted by Alan Stewart

  1. I raced on Lake Jordan with the Carolina Sailing Club a few weekends ago in my new 17. (Ken Pott's old 17) with straight cut leech sleeved sails. The wind was very light and variable and everyone was just ghosting around the course with occasional puffs of excitement. The other boats in the fleet (Flying Scotts, Thistles, Lasers, a 505 and a Buccaneer 18). With our flat bottom and hard chines (at least in comparison) we were pretty well left in the dust. But we were never the last boat over the line. Ok, so a flying scott caught his rudder on the pin. Well he did but we also beat the Buccaneer pretty consistently 2 of 3 races and we were pretty head to head with them (more so than the others at least). A Bucanneer 18 has a rating of 87.0 but this one was (in my opinion) not being sailed to its full potential. I think based on that tiny bit of data that my 17 has a rating of maybe 85-87 in those light light air conditions. I believe we would have done better in 15 knots. Album
  2. Today the crew at B and B moved the now glassed starboard hull out of the shop so that the port hull can be caught up. Once the port hull is complete both hulls will be mated and finished inside the shed. Notice that the hull is still light enough to be moved around by hand. The four of us (with the help of Mandy, the boatyard dog) could easily slide the hull around the shop.
  3. Alan here with another update on the power cat. We have been battling the bitter cold on a daily basis here at the shop but still making strong progress. Since the last update, we have glassed the outside surface of the starboard hull, sanded it, installed the bulkheads that will define the fuel and water tanks, layed-up and cut out the baffles for the tanks and finalized the position of the engine. Once this was done, we wasted no time in setting the boat back upright and then rotating it down the other way to facilitate glassing the inner surfaces. Rotating the hull has become old hat at this point and due to the careful positioning of the center of rotation we were able to lift the hull upright and lower it down again without the help of any come along's or ratcheting devices! Here the hull is down on the other side. Here is a view of the interior looking aft. Yesterday we glassed the inside of the fuel and water tanks. Working on a one off boat in a relatively small shop requires constant improvisation. We make a lot of tools and come up with new ways of doing things to make large jobs easier. Below is one such improv device we nicknamed "the diving board" which allowed us to reach the back of the tank with rollers when the roller on a stick just couldn't cut the mustard. More to come. Thanks for watching.
  4. I haven't been on the forum for a while but I'm excited to be back in the states after some great adventuring and blue water sailing. The second annual North Carolina Challenge was a big hit and great fun racing with my dad again this year with enough rowing for class 4 to last us a while. For the time being I'm living in Asheville and doing some boat work for hire (what else?). Anyway, count me in for the mess-about (and my first) along with my amazing girlfriend Taylor. We look forward to meeting and sailing with everyone.
  5. Guy, Welcome to the forum and congrats on starting the build. My dad and I just finished our CS20 that we raced in the Everglades Challenge this last March. I have a bunch of construction photos on my public web-albums through picasa that you might find helpful. I know that we valued others construction photos greatly during our build. http://picasaweb.google.com/alanosauras/ As for the inwales they should definately be scarfed together beforehand as they provide a lot of "flowy strength" to the top edges of the hull sides before the deck is glued on. If they were made of two pieces it would be much more difficult to get the "rim" of the hull fair from bow to stern. Ideally they are a continuous piece of very uniform density for equal bending from end to end but realistically, just try not to scarf to pieces of very different density or the piece as a whole won't bend uniformly. You probably already knew that. Hope any of that helps. -Alan
  6. The full battened sails for the CS20 performed very well in all points of sail during our EC trail of them. I would expect the CS17 to benefit just as well with the full roach, full batten sails. We also loved the mizzen stays'l... A LOT. I found that in lighter air we could use the staysail in a very tight reach to pick up about 1-2 knots. The trick is to loosen the halyard and let the sail rotate back for higher pointing. This will result in higher sheet loads though and you'll have to crank on the sheet. You can use the mizzen sheet as a lever for the staysail sheet though. We use this technique all the time in cat sailing when you have to overstand a mark. On a cat like the I-20, first you drop the traveler. that helps a good deal. if you still can't make it, you let out the spin halyard about 3-4 inches and she rotates back into more of a big jib and you crank on the sheet. We passed a Flying Scott just off the wind shortly after the start of the EC this year. I believe he had 4 people on board and I would guess we weighed about as much as him with a full store of water, gear and such. He was not flying a chute however and we had our staysail up. Doug, I thought Green Heron had at least half battens. Definitely more roach than just the roller reefing sail. I think the 17 already has full batten sails available.
  7. #103 on its way to Tampa for the Everglades Challenge. Follow my Dad and I's progress on my blog. http://www.sailnaway.blogspot.com
  8. Thanks Ken, if you have not heard, we are planning to move the boat out of the basement THIS SATURDAY the 23rd at 3pm. If you are within reasonable driving distance from Chapel Hill and want to lend a hand, or just want to see the boat up close and in person, feel free. I can send you details if your interested. I think we have about 15 people as of now so don't feel bad if your too far away, just watch from home Jeff, yes we were pretty concerned with visibility with the cabin there but we sat in it for a while and while it does block the straight forward view slightly its not very bad especially if your sitting up on the rail which I think we will be. Graham also seemed to sit on the rail of the EC22 a lot for the same reason and when I got to sail the 22 at the end of the EC last year, I sat on the rail as well. Its a pretty natural perch. Also, I don't think that lowering the cabin roof a few inches would have significantly improved visibility but would have made it a little cramped in the cabin. In hindsight we would have probably tried to lower the cabin seat tops a little more and thus lower the roof height without sacrificing head room. BUT then we would be reducing the storage space significantly in the cabin. SOO many trade offs. I hope what we ended up with works well. If not, cut it off and build it up again. It is a wooden boat after all! As for the tabernacle, we considered raising it enough to allow the mast to lie horizontal when lowered but decided that that was not so important and instead just ended up raising the pivot pin it by 3.5 inches and raising the base pin by 1.5 inches. This effectively raised the pivot point and simultaneously increased the mast bury by 2 inches. The problem with simply raising the pivot pin was that then the base would not clear the inside of the bow when it rotated out of the tabernacle hole. With the mast down, the raised tabernacle will allow the tip of the mast to be about 5 feet above the waterline so probably just high enough reach when its on the trailer.
  9. It's all coming together now. Just 9 more days until the boat leaves the driveway for the Everglades Challenge. We are moving the boat out the basement this Saturday. www.sailnaway.blogspot.com
  10. Boat looks GREAT Doug, thanks for the pictures. Were hoping to make more major progress this weekend. Are you planning to carve your own oars? will the same oar be used in the yulogh brackets? Any plans to try to weigh her? Last question, does she have a name? I hope we have some good wind for all these fine sailboats that have entered the race. Start the countdown 29 days left! -Alan
  11. Ken, I've had a Pentax optio W20 (there is now a newer version) for ~2 years and it has never failed me on any sailing adventure. When I race or just head out the lake, it just goes in my lifejacket pocket. I cannot begin to count the times its been dunked or submerged. It also survived the Everglades Challenge last year as well as a trip to St. Thomas to the Rolex Regatta. Both extreme tests of the cameras durability as it was wet for a long periods of time on end. I don't use mine for skin diving because I know what "waterproof" really means but I always gladly dunk it in the drink for those occasional disbelievers. It's well worth the cost IMO. This only begins to describe the times I have flipped, swam, dropped and otherwise abused my camera and I have zero complaints. Oh, and this is the camera I will use in the 2008 Everglades Challenge as well, still going strong. Oh yeah, my family also has an older opto waterproof camera (W10) I believe that has also never had any problems and loves the water. Here is a link to the NEW Pentax optio W30 (the newer model). Amazon.com sells it for around $250. Make sure you get a 2GB sd card. Mine can take ~45min of video or ~1000pics depending on quality. http://www.amazon.com/Pentax-Optio-Digital-Camera-Optical/dp/B000LXZYKW/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1201835288&sr=8-1 Reading some of the reviews, it sounds like this one doesn't like snorkeling very much but I am not surprised by that. Just because it is "waterproof" doesn't mean its snorkel proof. But I stand by my experiences and wouldn't hesitate to buy another one. Its already paid for itself in my book. If it died tomorrow I would have gotten my moneys worth and would definitely buy a new one. P.S. Stick it to the man and don't buy from West Marine unless its an emergency. If you knew how much they were making off what they sell it would make you sick. P.P.S. No I don't work for or am in anyway affiliated with Optio Camera company...or WestMarine. -Alan
  12. Thanks for the suggestion I hadn't thought of that. We already ran a pull string through the pipe. If you suck from one end with a shop-vac it makes that job very easy. And FUN.
  13. We added a length of PVC pipe along the port side under the seat top from the cabin to the aft compartment next to the transom and also inside the cabin to the bow to run wires. Just in case we end up adding a permanent lighting setup with a battery or maaaaybe a small electric trolling motor for future adventures.
  14. More progress on hull #103. We have the hull upside down and are planning to finish the bottom this week. With only 8 weeks left to the start of the 2008 Everglades Challenge crunch time will soon be upon us. See the latest at www.sailnaway.blogspot.com
  15. The latest update on hull 103. http://www.sailnaway.blogspot.com. We are getting the final coats of epoxy on the inside of the hull and getting ready to install the cabin seat top structure and cockpit seat tops. Soon we will be flipping the hull over to finish the bottom of the hull. Since I last posted we have installed the centerboard trunk and I am currently working on applying the final coats of epoxy on the board itself. We also added a new old school drill press to our basement workshop. Here is a pic of the cabin seat structure. Merry Christmas.
  16. I thought of this earlier but realized it would not work very well for a leeboard because it does not work when rotated but if you were going to try a side mounted dagger board slot then you might try going with a board that has runners on the bottom. It would be as easy as attaching a 3-4" wide board to to the bottom of the vertical board. (So it would make an upside down "T" shape in the cross section). By increasing the width of the bottom surface you reduce the effects of tip losses in the foil as the water on the leeward side tries to move under the board to the windward side and creates a vortex. It would make the board more effective at reducing leeway maybe to the point where a lot of extra width in the board to offset the lost length would not be as much of an issue. And it does not increase you draft. Sure the foil shape could be a little more refined but you get the idea. Anyway, it's a pram, not a racing boat. And I know thats not a piccup pram. More ideas the better.
  17. I had the chance to talk to Matt this year at the EC finish in Key Largo and even got to take a sail in "Sand Flea" his 8 foot pram that he sailed in the race. I also enjoy seeing his micro cruisers in action. I don't claim to know a whole lot about hull design but I think one thing I learned about Paradox, and other ballasted narrow micro cruisers is that in order to make them self righting when knocked down in a heavy sea, they cannot be too wide. There is a maximum width for a ballasted boat before it will have a second stability point...upside down! Paradox for example has a displacement of 1410lbs, (http://home.triad.rr.com/lcruise/paradox1.htm) and is just about as tall as it is wide. It is ballasted and designed to be self righting and very stable so that it could safely make open water crossings. I think Enigma is of similar design. I also don't see why the chine runners would care what the beam is. They are used because they are an ingenious way of reducing leeway with hardly any trade off in draft which makes them excellent for sailing upwind through Florida bay I agree wider would be more comfortable but to keep it self righting, at some point it would make more sense to use a keel instead of adding more and more ballast to the bottom but then there goes your nice shallow draft and coastal cruising ability which is what Matt designed the his micro cruisers for in the first place, to get into those hard to reach shallow bays and keys. On the other had (as you say, there are always trade offs) you could of course trade width for self righting ability.
  18. You bet! We are taking a lot of inspiration from Graham's EC22 for our cabin design but we are planning a different roof design. It will be 7 feet long inside from the entry bulkhead (with the trunk slot) to the tabernacle bulkhead. We are planning for 48" of sitting headroom in the first 3 or 4 feet of the cabin. The starboard half of the cabin will be fully covered to the cabin seat top height and the port side will have the footwell which is why the inside floor stringer on the port side is cut short.
  19. More progress made over Thanksgiving holiday. All but the tabernacle bulkhead installed as of today. Soon to begin installation of seat sides and cabin seat and bench structures as well as centerboard trunk install, tabernacle bulkhead install and then roll roll roll yer boat, time for a bottom job. www.sailnaway.blogspot.com
  20. Hey Ken, Sorry I missed our post about sailing on Thurs. I checked the forum a little too late. Sure sounds like I missed out! Too bad about the sprit boom. Maybe these awesome warm windy late late fall days will stick around a little longer and I can get out to the lake soon. I have finals coming up soon so not sure. My dad and I are working like crazy over the break and got back from visiting family today. More work this weekend. http://www.sailnaway.blogspot.com
  21. Hey everyone, I found an article on the duckworks website: http://websitehttp://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/articles/cartoppermods/index.cfm It shows a design that uses control lines to adjust the height of the front of the sprit (at the mast) which in turn allows adjustment of the sailshape to some degree by tensioning or loosening the leech of the sail. I'm not really all that interested in curved sprits because I think that it has been shown to not add enough benefit for a race like the EC to justify the time to make a set. What I might be interested in is anything that will help sailshape in really light air. I have yet to go for a sail for any long period of time with sprits so I just don't know. I still need to get up with ken and go for a sail on Jordan. Does anyone feel like they would benefit from decreased leech tension (assuming you have too much) in very light wind by having a second snotter position lower down on the mast? And perhaps the same could be accomplished simply with an adjustable topping lift that could provide an upward pull on the sprit in light air to open the leech. I want to see that snotter rig on the SS! I hadn't thought about the effects of the sprit when the sail is let out really far. I am curious if there is a simple solution that would eliminate this problem for all luff tracked non rotating rigs. Maybe it already exists?
  22. Yeah, our windsurfer masts were inside the aluminum tubing and there was a lip. It didn't matter for the roller reefing sails that we used but if your planning to use a laced or hooped luff sail then I would definitely do it the way you suggest with a smaller aluminum tube connecting the two together inside and just use the same fiberglass tape method to build up the diameter.
  23. Dan, Essentially yes, same as a regular mast extension. We wrapped fiberglass tape around the aluminum mast at the bottom and top of the overlap area and then slowly sanded it down until it fit snug and tight in the aluminum tube and secured with screws from the outside. Same method we will use when we assemble the CS20 mast sections. I am pretty sure we used 2.25" aluminum with a 1/8" thickness (very stiff). Here is a pic of the windsurfer mast: http://picasaweb.google.com/alanosauras/SailingAdventuresOfTeamRAF/photo?authkey=BdmDWlONXZY#5032417958950647890 And the mast bend under load: http://picasaweb.google.com/alanosauras/SailingAdventuresOfTeamRAF/photo?authkey=BdmDWlONXZY#5038605132766712050
  24. Another question (somewhat tangent) on the subject of sprits, topping lifts and such. Has anyone noticed any effects of sprits on sailshape in very light air? Specifically the effect of a heavy (relatively speaking) sprit on a sail. Having no experience yet with this and having just built our sprits, I was just curious as to any opinions on the subject. Lighter = better? or maybe slightly stiffer~heavier = better? CS20 build is coming along nicely. Finished up shaping the centerboard yesterday.
  25. Doug, Great to see pictures of another CS20 in progress. She looks awesome. We have not had much discussion about no wind propulsion other than what I have read on this and other forums and what I have seen done last year but... A yuloh crutch (it seems) is always easy to add and there is a small learning curve from what I have read. Since I can only imagine that we will not have much spare time to practice our yuloh technique, I think we will therefore probably opt for rowing stations much like the EC22. They just seem like they belong. Here is a shot from last night of our progress from this weekend. We got both inwales glued on and fillet/glassed the center seam. The hull took on the desired shape so well that we took out the forward bulkhead for glassing the seam to make things easier (easy on a relative scale). We have plans for that bulkhead anyway which will be revealed in the near future. Lets just say, "it was in the way". -By the way, how did you (and anyone else) go about glassing the center seam where you can't reach it?? This was our solution.
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