Jump to content

Alan Stewart

Members
  • Posts

    700
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    115

Everything posted by Alan Stewart

  1. Great job. First CS-17 Mark 3 to float. You win!
  2. Graham has made some progress on his Core Sound 17 Mark 3 over the past couple of weeks. We have slightly redesigned the deck structure. In the end Graham decided that an inwale along the top edge of the sheer strake panel is the best solution. His deck beams are also starting to go in. Graham plans to use a sliding hatch for the companionway with a "garage" over the forward end which will extend all the way to the second bulkhead. A forward hatch will be go in the forward end of the garage. The garage allows for the installation of a dodger later. Graham is opting for a dodger instead of the trench option. Here is an album of his build thus far. https://picasaweb.google.com/107469640725598007206/CS_17_MK3_photos?authuser=0&feat=directlink With the cabin structure being finalized, our construction manual might finally be completed as well as some more detailed plan sheets showing these final structural details. -Alan
  3. Patrick, As you pointed out, this design is not ready yet. We are still refining the model but soon it should be ready to turn into a jig kit! Here are some teaser shots of the boat. https://picasaweb.google.com/107469640725598007206/Ocracoke256?authuser=0&feat=directlink
  4. I did use yellow pine on the keel batten on the 15 in the videos. All the solid wood is yellow pine for that matter. Whatever you use, make sure you use enough thickened epoxy when you install it. Any air gaps can eventually rot. I actually tore the rotted out keel batten out of my CS 17 recently and replaced it with heavy fiberglass tape. I think the keel batten gives the keel a lot of nice rigidity but I know Graham has always been uneasy when it comes to using big pieces of solid wood in an epoxy encapsulated boat. I suggest coating the piece of wood you shape for the keel batten with 3 coats of epoxy (at least the bottom of it) before installing it in the boat. That will ensure that if you don't get 100% void free glue up, all will be well.
  5. Randy, The first run of the new track is being extruded, cut, drilled, countersunk and anodized at this moment. It is due to be delivered in just a few weeks. We have quite a few builders anxiously awaiting it's arrival. We will certainly announce it's arrival when we have it. -Alan
  6. Typically there are a few steps to achieve smoothness as you say depending on how perfectly like a molded boat you want it to look. Most builders and even Graham don't mind seeing the edge of the tape in the cockpit provided there are no sharp edges or pinholes in the final paint surface. Scraping the edges of the tape with a scraper or sanding them down (feathering them) a bit is the first step after glassing. A fill coat of epoxy over the tape is about as far as most go. Maybe a few pinholes to fill then paint. If you want the edges of the tape to dissappear you'll need to pull a little putty (microspheres and epoxy) around the edges with a putty knife to blend it into the plywood surface. Also don't forget that if you use a nonskid in the paint on the sole, that will just about mask any and all small imperfections in the glassing on the sole.
  7. I've had good luck with sanding disks from home depot. The diablo brand you can get in packs of 50 for 20 bucks near me. They are bright red and have a universal type hole pattern to fit different orbital sanders. They worked well and I thought they were a good deal at 40 cents per pad. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FI6TZNE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1434446676&sr=8-1π=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=diablo+sanding+80+grit+universal+50+pack
  8. Well done! Graham and I were watching the tracker cheering you on when you were about 3 miles out. Looked like you got pushed backward a bit but then got it sorted out.
  9. That link didn't open right away for me. Here it is again...maybe.http://www.roguepaddler.com/coresound20.htm
  10. Looking great Pete! Here is a link to a blog post I did on building Doug's Centerboard (Cs20 Mk3 hull #1) Unfortunately I don't have a video on glassing the ballast to the trunk. Basically we glue it on first with thickened epoxy and then fair the intersection with a putty knife and thickened epoxy before glassing. People always ask what holds the lead on?! To which we reply, "the fiberglass of course!". The glass is VERY strong in tension which is exactly what is needed on the outer edge of the joint between the wood and lead. The fairness of the joint is pretty important however. A small "step" in the joint would mean that the glass fibers are also stepped and not straight down the board which will reduce the strength of the glass be some amount that I don't have time to quantify so make the joint fair and smooth. If you are a belt and suspenders kind of person, 2 layers of fiberglass wouldn't be the worst thing you could do. It is a "weighted center board" afterall. All my build videos are at my youtube channel which is here. I will be adding descriptions, "a lookup table" if you will to make it easier to find specific things which have been requested. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLCCJRycps-_mbO-Lfdr0s8OZX-4QOZCzL There is also a "B&B productions" playlist which is here. This playlist right now is some videos of the Mk3 series details we learn about as we go including the video of unfolding your hull. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLCCJRycps-_lJuQuxi11t9OlZM25dnQLj I am working to make easier for all to find on our website SOON.
  11. The other way to do what you want is to glass the transom as specified then glue On thin veneers of the desired pretty wood to leave bright which are not structural. Heavier but maybe easier.
  12. I have same on my 17. I think on Graham's Green Heron 17 they had seat pads on the side deck that made the area where you would hike out flush with the coaming. -Alan
  13. Ummmm, you do know that there is one of these registered right? 12′ Goose (stretched version of a Puddle Duck Racer) http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?141323-8-Puddle-Duck-12-Puddle-Goose-10-Eider-Duck Whoever questioned your choice of boat for the first stage must have either had a really bad experience in these waters or hasn't seen what other people are planning to bring.
  14. Core Sound 20 Mark 3 Unfolding Demo: https://youtu.be/WPff7tcO9As
  15. On your repair, what PAR said. On breakaway cleats, I stopped trusting them on the Everglades Challenge when one failed to release and snapped the couple year old downhaul line as the boat came to a screeching hault. No rudder in the dark in a narrow channel against the current is not a fast way To sail. I still believe they can be setup properly if close attention is paid to the mounting of the cleat angled up so the line is pulling the hinged part up. But I've used bungee for all my rudders since. On the CS 20, three strands of 1/4 good quality bungee on a loop lashed together at the end was just right. Tie that in line with the downhaul. It runs along the tiller and a cam cleat near the end of the tiler cleats the downhaul. You can pull the rudder down then pull on some bungee tension to give some down pressure. Running aground with this system also does not force the helmsman to do anything immediately. He may be doing something else equally important! And in fact most times shallow patches don't last and when the deep water comes up the rudder snaps right back down where it should be. On the Tybee 500 we used to bungee our rudders down on the nara 20 (jellyfish preventers) because a jellyfish at 15 knots will take the leeward rudder up in a flash and then someone has to go fix it. That gets old real fast.
  16. Video of the unfolding. Core Sound 20 Mark 3 Unfolding Demo:
  17. We have folded up Peter's boat here at the B and B workshop and she is looking really sweet. I for one am jealous. Pictures posted to the B and B yacht designs facebook page. https://m.facebook.com/profile.php?id=190417410979750&ref=bookmark
  18. Here is the ladder: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DS9WIPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  19. This is an AWESOME BOAT. Well maybe I'm a bit biased but everything I know how to do to make a boat I did on this boat. You CAN NOT build this boat with this stuff for that price. Plain and simple. Great boat to learn the ways of the Cat Ketch rig. Reef down and taker her out when everyone else is whining at the dock. Don't waste another summer stuck building, Pick up this turn key CS-15 and Go sailing now. She is protected with 2 part poly (devoe) paint even on the masts so she is ready for a long term of service. Fast and light with stainless steel rub rails and a stainless keel strip all the way down the hull for worry free shallow water sailing and beaching. CNC cut centerboard and rudder for efficient sailing. Tracks and slides for the sails with reef points. She has a storage hatch under the foredeck and a tabernacle for easy lifting and lowering of the main mast. I can raise the main mast by pushing down on the base of the mainmast while standing in front of the bow! Anderson bailer. She has a boarding ladder! Rudder up and downhaul on a bungee. Reinforced pad for clamping an outboard. Tiller extension ready for hard hiking. Bottom painted with trailer-able bottom paint. Brand new galvanized trailer with torsion springs! VIDEO OF SAILING https://youtu.be/ifT5UmeUd0M Youtube video series of building the CS15: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLCCJRycps-_mbO-Lfdr0s8OZX-4QOZCzL
  20. I say use a SS wood screw. I think a coarse thread 2" screw into the transom beam (biggest size that will fit in the hardware hole) with a properly sized pilot hole is plenty strong here. My 17 mizzen sheet block pad eyes are fastened this way and are holding strong. If it bothered you, you could router a narrow dado into the transom beam from inside (kind of a tight squeeze) and slip a nut into the dado and in that way use a machine screw but I think that would be overkill. I would do the backing block option last resort. Extra weight, extra work.
  21. Wow. That seems rediculous. I'm pretty sure I remember when my dad registered his cs20 it was a trip to the wildlife office and a form filled out paid money and bam done. Go stick hull numbers on. No inspection or anything.
  22. For those interested here are links to most of the stuff I have read so far about the EC 2015. Lots of descriptions of conditions but I subscribe to the theory that the CG's request to stop the event (I believe that's all they had the authority to do) had more to do with the number of small boats on the water and the fact that the watertribe mapper which usually shows all challengers on one mapping page was not working due to technical difficulties. Thus, it was difficult to keep track of all challengers positions. Whether or not that is even important for race management in a self proclaimed "unsupported event" is also another discussion. Just a few years ago we didn't have the tech available to the average boater. Anyway, here are some links. My trip report for this years Race (a bit short) http://www.sailnaway.blogspot.com/2015/03/2015-everglades-challenge-race-report.html Log of Spartina Blog where Steve wrote about us during the race. He was also our official shore contact person. http://logofspartina.blogspot.com/ Watertribe Forums: Where lots of helpful suggestions have been floated by tribers about how to improve. The event founder and head poobah is even now in talks with the CG on how to cooperate more going forward. http://watertribe.org/forums/ And if your more into bar fights there is the SA thread on the 2015 EC. Although toward the end things have more or less settled down and turned into constructive criticism...mostly. Warning, it's a long read with lots of stuff not worth reading interspersed with interesting perspectives...for sailors...kind of. http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=164096#entry4867903 Drone Footage of the race from a local hobbyist. Also, an article about how the guy who used a drone to film the start of the race (A GREAT VIDEO) was contacted by the FAA claiming that he was doing it for commercial purposes which they deemed illegal. http://motherboard.vice.com/read/the-faa-says-you-cant-post-drone-videos-on-youtube Other trip reports: Microtom's report: http://watertribe.org/microtom/ Scareman report: http://watertribe.org/forums/topic/scaremans-ec-2015-race-report SandyBottom report: http://watertribe.org/forums/topic/sandybottom-ec-2015-report
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.