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Alan Stewart

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Everything posted by Alan Stewart

  1. I've done it Tom's way too plenty of times. Just enough to hold shape and use a putty knife on both sides going back and forth, back and forth until both sides are filled nicely. You can always fill it twice within the curing window to get it nice and level, doesn't have to be perfect on the first go.
  2. I second PAR's technique with a slight modification. I like to tape both sides of the hole and rub the tape nice and tight. Then i use a pin to make very tiny holes about 6 of them around the outer perimeter of the hole through the tape on both sides. Then I make one slightly bigger hole in the middle on the side where you'll use the syringe. When you inject the thickened epoxy it fills all the way to the edge and you can see the little worms squirt out of the tiny pin holes. Works good for me.
  3. Jason should be up and running on the forum soon and should be able to give us some more insight as to how the boat has been going together thus far. Here is one of 4 more pictures I've added to his album which you can also access from the B&B website on the 256 page here. http://bandbyachtdesigns.com/ocracoke-256-2/
  4. If I wanted to Xynole the bottom I think i would first tape the chines with FG tape and then apply the xynole only to the bottom and carefully cut it to butt up against the edge of the FG tape and not overlap it. I only see the Xynole being needed on the bottom of the hull and since it's not for strength why make the chine so thick with extra material. I have used Xynole on kayaks for a rub strip and it absorbs A LOT of epoxy. easily 4 times that of fiberglass cloth with similar feeling thickness. Anyway, i think that's what I would do.
  5. Drew, It pains me to think how a Hobie 16 mast could be used to rig your boat. To that end I am currently in communication with a guy named John at PerformanceMetals in AUS. From their website I see they have almost all of the sections that we specify in 6061-T6. I inquired about the possibility of adding the 3" x 0.125" wall tubing as well as the 2.5" x 0.125" wall which is used on the 17. So far it looks like they CAN supply theses sizes. I will post here when I hear more. Homepage: http://www.performancemetalsaustralia.com.au/index.php Their stocklist: http://www.performancemetalsaustralia.com.au/round-tube-6061-T6-aluminium-stock-list.php **Note: I haven't figured out how to get to the aluminum tube list from the homepage but typing "performancemetals 6061-T6" into google found it.
  6. On the CS-15 there is (at least on my copy) a dimension for the snotter location on the Mast plan not on the sail plan. It is a dimension from the bottom of the mast to the eye strap location. I'll see if I can get the BRS plans and figure this out for you Thrillsbe. We're dealing with printer failure this week. New one on it's way so Graham may not be able to respond to this today. -Alan
  7. Some more pictures from Jason today. I've added a link to his picture album from the 256 page on the website. http://bandbyachtdesigns.com/ocracoke-256-2/
  8. Steve, Top underside of cockpit sole. Yes glass it. I don't think you need the cockpit sole to be in place to do the glassing of the ballast tank if fact i think that would make the job more difficult on the outer bays because the stringers are on an angle. I would glass over the strigners but it's more important that there are no pinholes and that everything has a durable coat of epoxy. You see, the ballast tank doesn't really need fiberglass but the fiberglass forces there to be a certain amount of epoxy thickness on all the parts which is desirable. If the glass goes on with lots of air bubbles and voids then I think it would have been better if it was just epoxy coated with say 4 or 5 coats because i would be worried about water getting behind the glass in those voids. To further confuse you, I've also thought about glassing the module pieces both sides before even beginning the assembly of the module but it would require widening all the slots and things but maybe doable. On the limber holes, I cut the glass around the opening after it's green. Then epoxy coat the end grain with 3-4 coats before installing. I would be coating all end grain before putting the module in in case somehow there ends up a void with bare end grain.. We're all still working out the best ways to put these things together. Bottom line is that it has to be coated everywhere with a nice thick coat of epoxy. Yes the module must be glassed to the hull. On Peter's boat (http://messing-about.com/forums/topic/9519-core-sound-20-mk-3-5-started/page-2) We glassed his keel and chines before he came and got his kit. This is the best way and the way the final version of the manual will show. Also he glassed the hull in the ballast tank area before installing the module. That seemed to work well also means that the only thing left is the glassing of the module to the hull. -Alan
  9. I am biased of course because I work for B&B and I have built and sailed a CS-15 and have not sailed a GIS but i did a quick search for videos of capsize recovery after seeing what flotation the GIS offers. I will say that I would definitely want to add some buoyancy tanks to the GIS like the Core Sounds have if i were to build one. That being said, The CS 15 is going to be a lot more boat to build as compared to the GIS. Video of capsized GIS. see how low she sits in the water. Capsize and recovery of a GIS. lots of bailing and not a lot of stability while swamped full of water due to the free surface effect. Compare that to a Core Sound 15. Here is a link to a photo gallery I just uploaded. Also there is a 21 video series on building the CS-15 here. And here is a video of sailing a CS-15.
  10. I have updated the OB 20 page on our website with some details of the NEW OB-20 Kit we are offering. I am slowly getting to each model and posing the photo galleries that normally go out with our plans on a CD. This way everyone will be able to see these pictures for all models. I also plan to post download links for the material lists for the various models. Picture Gallery of OB 20 constuction will be up soon. In the mean time, check out the Bacon OB20 building blog for some good vicarious building. http://baconob20.blogspot.com/
  11. I'm using the original picasaweb. I can't even look at Google photos, everything is too big and there are seemingly no options. A case of fixing what wasn't broken imo. If you search you will find a way to still view everything in the picasaweb format. I just right click on a pic in my album, open url in new tab or copy url and then paste that into the add a picture by url option. Keep trying. It took me a while too.
  12. Graham says for 6 oz glass, use 2 layers locally over the joint. An extra layer shouldn't add enough to bind the board. Should have a 1/16 on either side minimum.
  13. I am posting these for Jason. Our first builder of the new Ocracoke 256. The kit was picked up just a few weeks ago and as you can see the hull is already jigged up and almost ready for planking! According to Jason this represents 16 hours of work on the project.
  14. Thrillsbe, you got it right. No bolts, screws dowels or anything just thickened epoxy and glass on the outside. Graham doesn't even always glass all the way around the lead but just down about 3 or 4 inches past the joint. All of the loading is in compression and tension on the outer edge. Keel bolts are always used at the far edges of a keel for the same reason. In this case the glass is more than strong enough. It is essential however that the surface be smooth and continuous so the glass fibers run smoothly and straightly over the joint for maximum strength. The lead must be totally shaped before attaching. Don't be tempted to try to sand or grind the lead once it's glued on, Graham tried this one and the lead just heats up, the glued butt joint weakens and the lead just falls off (that is before glassing of course). Before I glassed the board, I pulled thickened epoxy over the joint to fill in the last of the minute jog in the joint between wood and lead.
  15. I used the supports to position the lead and made sure it would be fair on BOTH sides. Then I glued it on and glassed the first side of the board all in one step. Then I flipped, removed the supports and glassed the other side.
  16. I would like to point out that the Mark 3 level 2 kit comes with a laminated centerboard NOT PLYWOOD. Although our standard rudder blade is plywood it is not heavily loaded and we always ensure that the outer grain runs with the rudder and that it is not violated through the area of max bending stress (at the bottom of the cheeks). I hope not to distract from Steve's build but thought I would post a link to some pictures of the centerboard that we built for Doug Cameron (CS20 Mk3 builder #1) This construction uses the CB from the level 2 kit. https://picasaweb.google.com/107469640725598007206/CoreSound20Mark3Centerboard?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCO22_ZyFnbKqnQE&feat=directlink Hand shaping the board is a rewarding and fun process. I applaud you. Go Steve go!!!
  17. Chick, I am pretty sure that he is planning on a toe rail. I remember also discussing with Graham and Jay that the cabin top would be better served if it were entirely non skidded because you DO have to go up there to attach the spirt and hank on the sail. Basically for rigging purposes.
  18. Here is a link to some of the better ones from Graham's Camera. https://picasaweb.google.com/107469640725598007206/2015BBMessabout?authuser=0&feat=directlink
  19. There are some on the facebook page. For some reason, i think everyone was having so much fun this year that not as many pictures were taken as they could have been. Prove me wrong! https://www.facebook.com/groups/288804334653596/
  20. Hmmm, maybe this? picasaweb USED TO be easy. https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=107469640725598007206&target=ALBUM&id=6044415842045015889&authkey=Gv1sRgCILBsu_0-NOyMw&feat=email
  21. I've kept adding pictures to my album of picture of graham's boat. You can see them here. https://picasaweb.google.com/m/viewer?fgl=true&pli=1#album/107469640725598007206/6044415842045015889
  22. Chick! Oh no! Inquiring minds want to know the exact circumstances of the fight. We all occationally "cut corners" with tools and get lucky. When your feeling up to it perhaps a diagram of what you were doing? You'll get no criticism from me no matter how "dumb" it was. There is always room for improvement when playing with your pet shark.
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