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Alan Stewart

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Everything posted by Alan Stewart

  1. I definitely have clamp envy. I asked Chris about his clamps, he said he got them in bulk on "sale day" at the local getting place. They run when they see him coming now.
  2. I was in brief contact with a guy who said he could supply the sections we commonly use. Give him a call. John Performance Metals P/L 32 Melbourne Road, Riverstone, NSW 2765 (61) 2 45 7777 69 Ph. (61) 2 45 7777 70 Fx. info@performancemetals.com.au www.performancemetals.com.au
  3. Patrick, That's correct. we have had so many requests for it that we are redrawing the Ocracoke 20 now with 16 deg of deadrise up from 13, and a bracket built in like the 256. I think after the 20 we plan to redraw the Cape Lookout 28 as there are also many requests for a larger platform than the 256.
  4. Farmboy, We did some quick renders of the 256 with a pilothouse but didn't take it past "rough concept" as Oyster said. I decided to share them but please IGNORE the flybridge! we do not feel that the 256 is wide enough to safely handle a flybridge. The Cape Lookout 28 (which we hope to update soon after the Ocracoke 20) would probably support a house and bridge. https://picasaweb.google.com/109621697666101332150/6312158257371048241?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCLSFkvfLm_78zgE&feat=directlink -Alan
  5. The 814 anti re-cleat cover for the 211 clam cleat is standard fare on halyards for current rigging kits. We have em in stock too!
  6. The 4 moccasin 14s should be on the wayer this afternoon, ready for final finishing when they get home. The Jessy went home yesterday after getting most of the structure done. The Amanda is well on its way.
  7. Oops wrong tread..... The 4 moccasin 14s should be on the wayer this afternoon, ready for final finishing when they get home. The Jessy went home yesterday after getting most of the structure done. The Amanda is well on its way.
  8. The B&B Crew is on their way up to Connecticut for the 25th annual wooden boat show. I am posting pictures to an album. Link: https://picasaweb.google.com/109621697666101332150/6299330925055682561 We will be building four Moccasin 14 canoes, one 12' Amanda sailboat, and 1 jessy 12' powerboat.
  9. She looks great. Thanks but I can't take any of that credit, Marissa is all Grahams hard work and experience. I'd be happy to draw a boat half as good as that.
  10. I have updated the 256 Page to reflect the above comments. It now shows an "empty weight" without engines as well as the displacement as described above at 50% tankage. http://bandbyachtdesigns.com/ocracoke-256-2/
  11. Thanks for pointing this out. Having recently reviewed the weight study for the Ocracoke 256 there are some items we included to ensure a conservative study that probably shouldn't have made it into the published "empty weight. After reviewing with Graham, I will update the published number to more accurately reflect the real "empty weight". Unfortunately there are lots of ways to calculate this kind of number (a moving target) but we will be more consistent in the future. Let me try to break it down a bit. Ocracoke 24 published at 2400lbs with a 150hp engine (~300lbs) Ocracoke 256 published at 4500lbs with twin 150hp or single 300hp (~600 or ~800) The 4500lbs that we published for the 256 actually includes the following line items that probably shouldn't be included in the published "empty weight" of the boat. -Full tankage for 2 tanks at 55gal each = 660lbs. Normally published/calculated with 50% tankage -350lbs (2 people standing at the console) shouldn't be included in the "empty weight" for calculation only. -Leaning post/bait well = 200lbs. This isn't shown in the renders but most fisherman want a bait well. I don't believe the Ocracoke 24 has this included. If you take out these (-330 (half the fuel) - 350 (people) - 200 (bait well)) you get about 3600lbs. The Ocracoke 24 displacement is shown with a single 150hp engine (~400lbs) so if you remove the engines from both boats your down to about 2800lbs for the 256 compared to 2000lbs for the 24 since the 256 has a twin installation vs. single on the 24. I'll have to ask Graham what else he included in the 24's weight but the 256's number also includes 75lbs for a T-top, 100lbs for the integral bracket, 60lbs of ground tackle, 100lbs of batteries and 100lbs for each fuel tank. All of which may be slightly conservatively estimated. At the very least, the 24 has no bracket so now we have about 2700lbs v.s 2000lbs for an apples to apples comparison. For the added length and dead-rise I believe this is very much in the ballpark. There's not much worse than seeing your beautiful boat sink lower and lower in the water than you expected. We always add a "margin of error" factor to the weight study that accounts for unknown weight that may come from additional hardware or just sloppy building or the occasional builder who decides to add an extra layer of glass all over the place. Hope that helps, and we will make an attempt to be more consistent with our published displacements. -Alan
  12. Looking to buy or sell a B&B boat? Check out the new B&B Classifieds page on the website. You can log in and and create an add free of charge! These adds are owner posted and managed and so B&B takes no responsibility for the state of any boats posted to the classifieds page. Do your own due diligence and contact sellers directly.
  13. New video starting to go up! Playlists for each boat! New "how to" videos section starting to grow. We're searching B&B videos and adding them to our playlists all the time. If you find one, shoot me an email. Check it out now and SUBSCRIBE https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCGqvIs-J1qJUIgzsF1_Uoog
  14. Please watch these videos. They make the process very clear. S10 unfolding video by Michael Niemi: They actually didn't install the "anti cracking" blocks just behind the glass joint at the boat but they still didn't seem to have any problems. CS-20 Mk3 unfolding video. There is more involved and it's larger but basically the exact same.
  15. I used to always pull my rudder off trailering but found it to be just one more thing to do and it's such a bulky thing to put in your car. I've never had a problem with it dangling on my 17 and no signs of any ill effect on the rudder itself. Plus the mast tips stick out almost as far anyway. For what it's worth.
  16. John, I did a quick Rhino model of some 3/4" hollow back to show how Graham taught me to do it. It's straightforward but does require some skill with a grinder or hack saw close to final and finish with grinder. In this case a picture is best. Because you are taking advantage of the end moment provided by the tip that gets cut off you end up with a nice smooth bend with no tool marks or hammer blows on it. You could never get this shape by trying to bend the very tip without lots of filing and polishing afterward. The angle to which you bend the end down will dictate the radius you get on the end of the hollow back. What I have shown gets you kind of an oval shape on the end.
  17. Hard to say with any certainty. There are so many variables including wind and water conditions. I'd like to do more testing on different days and Graham would like to try some temporary chine runners. I think this would be a cool solution because it would mean even better shallow water performance. One consideration is that chine runners may add some drag downwind if they are always submerged. They will also add some drag upwind but its possible that the reduction in leeway may reduce lift induced drag so much that overall drag upwind is reduced which would mean pointing higher and sailing faster. Or just sailing faster or just pointing higher. The thing we will look out for is an increase in velocity made good upwind. The trick will be lots of data because it's nearly impossible to test with the exact same settings and conditions. Performing the testing with and without chine runners on the same day I think will help to reduce condition related variables. Even attempting to sail the same course and compare.
  18. All, Graham and I took Carlita out for a sail yesterday to further evaluate the tacking angle of Graham's CS17Mk3. There is no current in the Bay river and the wind was a gusty as always in the river but more steady to the eastern side with greater fetch. The boat was a joy to sail and it was my first time at the helm. She is very stiff with the water ballast and we were full sail the whole time. She would lay over but only to a point and then just drive on upwind. Graham and I and the two dogs stayed nice and dry the whole time in the cockpit which was wonderful. Like a magic carpet ride. As you can see, the tacking angle is not really that bad. To a seasoned racer it may be frustrating at times but for anyone going out for a pleasure cruise which after all this boat excels at, the boat is no slouch and didn't have any trouble going to weather just to keep the discussion in perspective with some real world testing. The red angles we determined to be "outliers" and didn't include in the average. In the second picture, you can see Graham tacking into the third checkpoint in the EC and deciding to take the southern route. We think that he had some favorable current in this stretch because we can see that his speeds over ground were about the same as in our afternoon sail but the tacks are compressed consistent with favorable current. It may also be the case that in the heavy air conditions and being reefed down, Graham had the boat more dialed in for upwind work that we had yesterday. The third picture is from this past saturday when Graham went out sailing with Vlad (AKA Crazy Russian) who was helming the boat in light air conditions. Tacks show decent performance here too.
  19. Pete, the picture of your bow with test anchor on show the foredeck incorrectly positioned. The stem does not angle backward above the side panels. The anchor locker cutout near the tabernacle should be in line with the front edge of the tabernacle. The pic shows not enough lateral support for the tabernacle with foredeck positioned back where you show. I hope your sheer strakes are glued up correctly.
  20. Pics from today. https://picasaweb.google.com/107469640725598007206/EcUfc2016
  21. All, I wanted to go ahead and start a thread for posting rumors, discussion, theories, suppositions, etc. regarding the upcoming Everglades Challenge and Ultimate Florida Challenge which Graham and myself will be participating in. I am also working on a page on the B&B website with links and information for on the boats we are entering, how to follow us and what exactly this crazy event is. Click here to go to the B&B site. http://bandbyachtdesigns.com/off-to-the-races/ The latest update is that Alan sailed his Sailing Canoe for the first time yesterday evening and Graham will likely splash his new boat today. We are getting very exited to participate in this years event and are very proud of the craft we are bringing to the table. Here is a video of the first sail of the new sailing canoe. -Alan
  22. I'll be there with my new sailing canoe. Splashing today for first sail. Pictures to follow. Build album here: https://picasaweb.google.com/107469640725598007206/BBUFCCanoe?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCIOsp-T16eSKxwE&feat=directlink
  23. Hey all, Graham and I read everything even if we don't post. We were discussing this idea just yesterday based on this input. -Alan
  24. Steve, I emailed you a response to your question about that aft cleat but thought i would post here to. I think Graham answered the question you asked and not the question you meant but I saw the context from your email. I believe the dimension is given on page 26 of the manual for that cleat. It shows 16 1/4" up from the bottom point to the top surface of the cleat. That being said, I think it will actually be easier to install the cleat after the bulkhead is in place. That is because the cleat will be in the way of fiber glassing the bulkhead to the side of the hull and with it out, the glass will go on easier (in one longer piece). After installing and glassing the bulkhead to the hull, I typically grind the ends of cleats like this to lay into the filleted and glassed corners. A mini grinder with a 36 grit sanding disk on it makes quick work of wood. I use one all the time. It's like having a wood eraser. I would use a level to locate the top surface of the cleat by leveling from the top of bulkhead 2 forward to bulkhead 1. A couple of marks and you'll have the top line of the cleat. I typically use 2 drywall screws to dryfit and hold cleats in place before gluing. pilot hole drill the cleat then hold it up where you want it and just press the tip of the screw into the bulkhead and turn it in a few turn. Doesn't take much to hold the cleat but not go through the bulkhead. Then i take it off and leave the screw points just slightly sticking out of the backside while I apply epoxy, then I put it right back where it was using the screw points to help get it exactly where it was. Another technique is to use a hot glue gun. I've been using this more and more for very fast work. The procedure is, butter up the cleat with glue after it's been fitted, but leave two small bare wood spots on the cleat and on the bulkhead about 1/2" diameter. Then put 2 dabs of hot melt glue on those spots and press the cleat into place and hold. Presto, stuck in place, no screws to remove. Some have argued that this leaves a bare wood spot where the hot glue is but I'm not yet convinced there is a problem with this method.
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