Alan Stewart

Yes I think that looks right for the snotter block with the hook.

Hey Richard, I think you need to change the permissions on the link to your album. It's asking me to request access.

Yeah, forecast could be better but we will keep fingers crossed. Hopefully not much rowing. Yep got the bowstring and headsail ready. One pic of each B&B boat below. Lots more in my album.

We have arrived at the start beach. Today we stage the boat on the beach and have the captains meeting this afternoon. Tomorrow we shove off at 7am.

I cannot think of a problem with putting the water pickup inside the bracket other than that it won't be functional while the boat is on plane and at some speed before planning as the water starts to separate from the bottom of the bracket. If the pickup is for something like a bait well and not needed underway then I'd say it's a good spot for it since it won't interfere with the bottom at all. I'd put it in the center bay nearer to the transom.

Great job, I like that bright fendering! Thank you for weighing the boat, so few builders report back their weights.

Posting for the Watertribe Chief who is selling his boat. The boat was professionally finished by B&B and sailed in the NCC in 2022. From Chief..... “My Core Sound 17 Mark 3 is up for sale. This is a great boat and I will be sorry to see her go. Items included are shown below: Core Sound 17 Mark 3 recently completed in 2022. Continental Trailer model EW1620V-2000 virtually new Torqeedo Motor TRAVEL 1103 3 92 AH Batteries Solar Charging Panel Shore Power Multi Bank Charging Fully Rigged 3 Beach Rollers with hand pump And More Visit the B&B site for info about this boat: B&BYachtDesigns.com Asking $18,000 for all.” Please communicate to Chief through the website Discussion link or express your interest here with your contact information. " Email him: chief@watertribe.com Or use the watertribe forum where he posted this. https://watertribe.org/forums/topic/core-sound-17-mark-3-for-sale Video of the entire boat inside and out: Drone Video from the NCC race:

Steve just posted this video on fb of him and Amos motoring down the dismal swamp canal in their 20mk3s https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=870386847994274&id=1254327796&mibextid=ZbWKwL

A round hole in the side shouldn't need any extra reinforcement. Where does it say to put it in the top in the plans? Must be a typo. Defenitely put them in the sides.

Got it Tom thanks. I add a zero option on the sign up form. Good catch.

That should make a good gunwale. I think its fine on the interior. But id also consider if you'll have a soft bumper on the outside of the gunwale like gunnel guard. Graham still has a bunch of old firehouse he uses for this. In that case typically a lot of fasteners will be going into it. Graham started using "pamlico teak" also known as good old pressure treated deck boards ripped up and let dry for a few weeks. This way fasteners causing the wood to rot is not nearly as much of a concern. On his last dinghy he held the firehose on with monel staples. Adhering the gunnel guard with 5200 is possible but tricky but that would be the best.

Good job on the repair, i had little doubt you could repair and re-fold. I've seen the additional crack before too. I think gluing a ply doubler on the inside isn't a bad idea but I also think the normal keel fillet and chine glass and a bit of extra glass should be sufficient. An additional glass patch over that area on the inside would be a good idea as well. This will also give you some thickness there for when you eventually need to sand down the "bump" the crack created. Maybe do the keel and chine glassing first and then decide if you want to put the extra ply doubler over the new crack spot. As for the chine gap at the forward bulkhead. I think you should just live with it. The forward bulkhead has always been a tricky shape to fit to the developed ply which doesn't always bend exactly on the ruling lines we tell it to in the computer and also the computer can't take into account the slight amount of compound curvature that the ply does take on in real life. Gaps of say not more than ~1/4" on the edges of the forward bulkhead against the hull bottom are ok in my book. Thickened epoxy is a great gap filler! On the chine itself, I wouldn't worry too much about getting it to close that last little bit. If it really bothers you I would tweak the bottom of the forward bulkhead (take off some material) say at the keel where it looks like it's hitting in your picture but the most important thing is just getting it as close to the lines on the ply sides as you can and at the right height vertically. If it's sitting a bit high then yeah feel free to trim it a bit. Also, on the outside you can use a one sided block to pull the edge of the bottom panel in a bit if it's extending out beyond the side panel This helps keep the chine line from drooping at the bow if you do have a gap. Like the picture below.

Bryan, defenitely repairable for another go folding. I'm out of town this weekend away from my pics from other builds but basically just glue the crack with epoxy and put a piece of glass over the crack inside and out and clamp nice and flat. At least half a dozen builders over the many years have sucessfully repaired from a crack during folding. Wait a few days before second attempt epoxy is still pretty flexible after 2 days. Full properties in about 7 days in my testing. I'd give it a full 72 hrs maybe a bit less if you apply some gentle heat. (Not more than 100 deg or so so). On the nesting bulkhead in this picture it looks like your ratchet stap is actually keeping the bottom from flattening. The chine edge needs to be able to extend past the corner of the bulkhead but the strap is holding it back. Instead just slide some boards under the keel at the bulkhead and support the keel at that point and the gap should easily close. That sounds like maybe what you were going to try next.

Hey Musicman, sorry for the cool reception on your request. I'd be happy to walk you through the setup if you want. We could do a facetime call if you wanted to have a second set of eyes on it. It looks like you've got the stail track. Setup goes something like this.... Install both masts making sure you've got the halyards run up and down. Hank on the mizzen sail and attach the mizzen halyard. hank on main sail and halyard. Launch the boat. hoist the mizzen sail and cleat the halyard attach the mizzen sprit to the mizzen clew and snotter blocks on the front of the mizzen mast. hook up the mizzen downhaul (usually hook with 2:1 purchase) Pull some tension on the mizzen downhaul and mizzen snotter. Connect the mizzen sheet and keep it loose if you're still at the dock. hoist the main sail and cleat the halyard. connect main downhaul and sprit boom. connect main sheet. Thats pretty much it.

Well I think you can do it easily. Dont listen to those guys. He said he had ppl who could get him if he comes up short so not really anything to lose trying. Also the 20 is faster than the 17. 30 miles is only 6hrs at 5kts. In any fresh breeze you'll be doing 6-7kts and could easily make the miles. You will have to cross your fingers for some northerly winds however. And plan on storms. There's always storm's in the bay. Shoot I'd do it.

Thanks for sharing! What length oars do you use and would you want them a bit longer or shorter? I'm trying to compile some "recommendations" for oar length for the Spindrifts.

We now have a website for Graham's Trip! www.sailingforparkinsons.org

Dear B&B family, We recently cut out a Core Sound 20 (standard) aft deck kit for a builder who sadly passed away very suddenly due to complications from lung cancer. Paul Rieur was enthusiastic about building his Core Sound 20 when he suddenly had to go into chemo and passed shortly after. For those interested here is his obituary. Naturally B&B repaid his kit deposit in full for which his family was very grateful. RIP Paul. https://www.legacy.com/us/obituaries/nhregister/name/paul-rieur-obituary?id=48994606 The kit is brand new and freshly CNC cut and since we're not sure when the next CS-20 kit will be ordered and we have very limited shop space we though we would offer the kit at a discount and see if anyone was on the fence for a Core Sound 20 kit. The kit is the same as the one that produced this boat 'Blue Duck'... https://messing-about.com/forums/topic/11016-core-sound-20-mark-i-174/?tab=comments#comment-104960 https://photos.app.goo.gl/z3GXbdQNEERWDMMN8

Steve, I'd use the SYP for the stiffeners. it can taper at the very top. I'd also put a layer of glass over the front/top of the trunk extension to strengthen the connection between the two sides (inboard and outboard. There is some good backup structure built in and the front wall of the ballast tank does a lot to stiffen the inboard side of the trunk and the bunk tops on the outboard side. With the extension glued and glassed in it's very strong. The current 20mk3 also has the battery box in front of the tank with cleats for the box lid so that adds another stiffener to the trunk extension area.

Hey guys, Anyone who's been on the fence about using their Core Sound boats in a Watertribe event and testing their mettle now is the time! The chief doesn't have enough entries to make the event viable this year yet so please if you want to join the fun please take a look and sign up!! If you have any questions about gear or need help call me! 919-923-1464 and i'd be happy to help. Here is a link to the event https://www.watertribe.com/events/NorthCarolinaChallenge/Default.aspx Here are some videos from past NCCs. Lots of Core Sounds have done the event and it's a fantastic and challenging course.

With the single line reefing system on the Amanda's balanced lug rig you can do both at once. Uncleat the halyard and slack it down as you haul in the reef line. The boom should remain at the same height or it might drop a bit in the process but then come back up when tension in the luff returns. It's complicated by the fact that the downhaul is holding the boom down so it shouldn't be able to just go up when you pull in the reef line. The downhaul holds the gooseneck down normally and the halyard tension pulls against it. On the Amanda we simplified the rig so the downhaul isn't adjustable it's just a static line and tension in the luff is just by pulling on the halyard. But it's quite hard to get enough tension so we added a 2:1 purchase to the Amanda's halyard to make tensioning the luff easier and this system works whether reefed or not. The storer setup works well to hold the yard against the mast while still allow it to lay flat when lowered so perhaps it can be integrated with a 2:1 as well to make getting enough tension easier. OR you can add an adjustable downhaul to tension the luff after hoisting as i suspect other lug rigs have. Here is the 2:1 halyard we tried on our Amanda at the shop. As usual there are umpteen hundred different ways to rig any boat rig and simplicity is directly proportional to the amount of head scratching that went into it.

Your favorite crew will be out at the Oriental Boat show this weekend with some cool stuff on display. Graham will have his CS-17 mk3 Carlita on display in the Wooden boat expo. Hope to see you there! Here are some pictures from past years with B&B at the OBS. 2016 2017 2018 2019 2022

We buy klingspor sheets for the shop and we like them.

Cool, I've watched many of their videos (SV Seeker). Looks like they got her to sit on her lines ok. Was worried about her for a bit when they launched she was pretty low in the stern. https://www.youtube.com/@SVSeeker/videos

Below, copied from this google docs. https://docs.google.com/document/d/14d9ZdooVy53R75y2mquZRJl8XymKDjYJaVbmyjAJ-is/edit?usp=sharing Centerboard Modifications to the 17 and 20 Mark 3 designs. Jan 2023 Note that if you are purchasing a kit or plans today, none of this is relevant to you as you have the most up to date version. If you have a Core sound 20mk3 or 17mk3 prior to the hull number below then you might consider this modification. Shortly after painting and relaunching Graham’s 17mk3 ‘Carlita’ in late 2016, Graham posted a thread called ‘Carlita goes under the knife’ where he detailed lengthening his centerboard after feeling that he could improve her upwind performance with a longer centerboard. This was just in time for the Everglades Challenge in 2017. This change was then added to the 17mk3 kit and plans in early 2017 (longer trunk and centerboard) for all hulls after hull #12. Then shortly after this a major overhaul of the entire design was completed around April 2018 which included Hull #15 and boats afterward. The overhaul included raising the cabin slightly, redesigning the trunk to move the centerboard further forward and other improvements to the kit. For the Core Sound 20 Mark 3, the centerboard location and length was updated for hull #21 and all hulls afterward. You can easily identify the difference in either model if you are still unsure as the original centerboard location was such that no part of the centerboard or trunk extended forward of the companionway bulkhead. This was done to keep the board out of the cabin. We found however that the boat had a touch of lee helm though we originally thought the mizzen location (being further aft than previous Core Sound designs) would account for this. This was especially evident with the 17mk3 due to its shorter waterline. Interestingly the Core Sound 20 Mark 3 does not seem to exhibit lee helm and we’ve yet to have the opportunity to sail the original and relocated board 20mk3 back to back. (perhaps at the next messabout) in order to see the effect. Perhaps after that it will be more clear if the 20mk3 would benefit from the modification. Ok, how do I do it? For those interested in making the modification to an existing boat, a very helpful video explaining the process (specific to the 17mk3) should be watched here. Pictures of Graham’s original modification which he did just before his trip around the Delmarva Peninsula can be seen here. The modification for the 20mk3 is done in the same way Don Silsbe completed the third known modification of an existing 17mk3 board and trunk on hull #6. (#2 and #6 also have the modification) Here is a link to his thread with good step by step shots of the process starting from the removal of the existing king post. We’ve created full size printable templates (seen below, each comes in 4 sheets of letter size paper) to use for the modification. See below to download the files for the 17 or 20 mk3 and be sure to read a few additional notes below. 17 mk3 Modification Dimensions and Files: Download Here 20 mk3 Modification Dimensions and Files: Download Here Do I have to extend both the trunk and the board? Yes, if you do the trunk, you should also extend the board. Extending the board: To extend the centerboard itself we are recommending doing this from the top of the board by adding a “crescent” shaped piece (shown below) to the top of the board and fiberglassing it on. This preserves the majority of the shaped board and means that redoing the lead tip is not necessary. Some of the existing board will need shaping into a foil shape as it will now be below the hull when rotated down. Also note that some additional uphaul purchase may be needed since the board’s lead tip has additional leverage on the uphaul line. The current centerboard rigging diagrams can be viewed here. 17mk3 rigging diagram and 20mk3 centerboard rigging diagram. Below shows the extent of the difference on the 17 mark 3. With the extended trunk and board there will be a slightly larger gap behind the board in the trunk but probably not enough to worry about doing anything about. Below shows the extent of the difference on the 20 mark 3. Pictured below the lengthened centerboard in the original trunk with the trunk extension. Note that with the 20mk3 there will be a gap of approximately 7” behind the lengthened centerboard when it is rotated into the original trunk. We recommend cutting a block of blue insulation foam that will slide up into this space and form a “filler” that can be glassed over and painted. Dow Blue foam is epoxy safe and the primary reason for doing this is to reduce the amount of water turbulence in the trunk which slows the boat down.