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Alan Stewart

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Everything posted by Alan Stewart

  1. Hey Don if you email me the photos I can put them in the log. It's not automatic. I put it in there what you submitted so far.
  2. Padre, it was definitely unnerving flying the drone. If doing it again i'd launch from the stern deck because the drone immediately attempts to stop moving over the ground once airborne so you have to fly away quickly to avoid sailing into it. The cockpit coaming cutouts are standard on the 17mk3 and i'm sure you cut add them to your boat. There is no divider but I did add a divider on my 20mk3. Here is a picture I did that so i could put stuff in there without it sliding back and not being able to reach it. I knew any oars I use would be 2 piece and so would fit in the stern part. The coaming space was never factored into the floatation of the boat they're purely aesthetic and functional for cockpit comfort but of course if you seal them they will add some floatation and righting moment if they go under. We just did some more capsize testing of the Chiefs CS-17 Mark3 with a mast head float and i'll post the results soon. Hey Joe! thanks. Its the first time I've ever tried flying the drone off a moving boat. I did 2 flights and the first one the boat was wing on wing. Unfortunately the drone wasn't recording!!! but i did get some still images so thats how i got that shot. The second flight we gybed the main to make it easier to fly away from the boat after takeoff.
  3. Thanks but all are not back safe yet!!! Still some sailors on the course! Kevin (KDubs) and his daughter (Maggers) are closing in on the finish right now in their Core Sound 17 #398! They are doing great. https://watertribe.com/Events/ChallengeGMapper.aspx Here's a video i took from our first day sailing.
  4. Wow. I would have hoped our boats are worth a lot more than this. I was planning to list mine for 10k with a motor and trailer. Assuming these are actually in good condition these sellers are really losing on these and whoever gets them is getting a heck of a deal. Guess i'll just hold onto mine then.
  5. This is the other way you could possibly mount the float to a sea pearl. I did this successfully with my sleeve luff CS-17 when we were first testing the floats but I didn't take any pictures. Basically it's a PVC pipe with a slot on one side sanded nice and smooth that is a snug press fit over the top of the mast and sail. That creates a hollow PVC tube at the top into which you'd install the B&B float and aluminum tube. The whole thing would come off with a tug. Or the PVC could be a slip fit and you add a small grommet at the top of the sail leech and use a short lashing line to the top of the PVC pipe thus preventing it being able to lift off. Advantage to this method is no alteration to the sleeve or mast tops heck you wouldn't even have to take the sails off. But it would add the weight of that PVC pipe.
  6. Class 4 update: The leaders now enjoy Mrs. Macs. Congrats to all. A few very hardy souls sill persevere in the 10k islands. We will continue following closely. Spawn continues to impress.
  7. Greybeard and ChefRamen on the 17mk3 are poised to an immanent first place Class 4 finish.
  8. Day 4 Evening installment of the Class 4 EC 2022 update. The wind is a broken record. 10-15 out of the SE. The final tactical battle between the CS-17mk3 and the Thistle is heating up. It's still anyone's race. Florida bay is the great equalizer!
  9. SkinnyGenes and TheJuice (in the Thistle) have taken a pretty good lead of about 4 hours over the Core Sound 17 mark 3. They got around the corner first and then I think the wind probably picked up a bit making it that much tougher for Greybeard and ChefRamen. Anything could still happen but I know SkinnyGenes has got to be happy about this! Go Kip and Druce! Well Deserved.
  10. Thanks Padre for the re post and the pronunciation assist! Sorry I forgot to update this thread! Here are the video updates I've done so far. Most current was this morning. Tues 7:45 am. I've been posting these to the B&B Facebook page but if you don't to Facebook you should at least subscribe to the B&B youtube channel and then you'll get automatically notified when we post any videos. Update 1: (turn up the sound) Here is an update on our B&B Racers/Challengers in the Everglades Challenge 2022 as of this morning. Hope you Enjoy. Updated 2 (better volume) Monday morning update on the B&B Boats in the 2022 EC. Tough conditions continue. Headwinds will continue. First 2 boats (catamarans) have made it to Key Largo last night. Update 3 Update 4:30pm Day3 of the Everglades Challenge. Greybeard and ChefRamen lead the Core Sound Pack and are on track for a top finish. Unfavorable winds continue to stack up against the remaining competitors. I can hear mother nature now... "The beatings will continue until morale improves!" Update 4 (most recent) Day4 update. Leaders battle it out around the capes having sailed the majority of the 10k islands section overnight. The thistle is in the lead but Florida bay is a wild card! Greybeard, ChefRamen could still overtake. All have extensive Florida Bay experience. Meanwhile Brian and Paul show us how the EC should be done.
  11. Here is a list of all the Class 4 boats in the B&B family that are registered. I've been in touch with all of them this morning and hope to have some pics from them once they get settled in the starting lineup. https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vQW9IgvLx6Uj7tdGW5wrfnU-TC_jGZyQWbd73ZWwzHtgsJmrygzU_qOVjSgtUZvpr0ZWsyf2BF-S3vS/pub The Watertribe facebook page has the most up to date pictures of course but Macatawa is cross posting them onto the watertribe forum so go there if you're not a facebooker here is the link to that. http://watertribe.org/forums/topic/ec2022-the-facebook-thread
  12. It sounds like it makes sense but for a small boat (like around 20 feet) I don't think it's practical. We typically draw our cockpit soles 2-3" above the DWL with a 1 degree upward slope with the boat level. It's possible to get a scupper under water but it would take 2 or 3 people in the stern corner. That's also assuming your scupper is right at the outboard corner of the cockpit. On the Ocracoke 20 you could "cross your scupper hoses" behind the aft bulkhead but that assumes you're using hoses which I probably wouldn't since then you're dealing with hose clamps that can fail etc. I'd go for solid fiberglass or PVC pipe tubes leading back to the transom. On the Ocracoke 20-B there is no aft bulkhead so the cockpit butts right into the transom. On Marissa the cockpit sole extends through the aft bulkhead cutouts for storage space and for cockpit draining. What I would recommend is building up a very slight rise in the stern corner of the cockpit or say 1/4" which could be done with just thickened epoxy or filler which brings the lowest point of the cockpit inboard about a foot and put your scupper there. Then use a check ball scupper valve if you're worried about water sloshing back in with a few people back there. Here is a shot of the Marissa and you can see the scupper location and the check valve scupper covers that where used. These just bolt over the scupper holes and a ping pong ball pushes against the hole when dunked to limit water intake.
  13. The Ocracoke build sequence is similar but we use a strong back that the frames are set up on and some completely temporary frames (green) which are removed and tossed after the boat is flipped upright. Also since the Ocracoke topsides are strip planked those boats (the ocracoke and outer banks series) must be built upside down on a jig and couldn't be stitch and glued. Marissa is all developed panels bottom and sides. Below is the Ocracoke bottom planking going onto the jig. In contrast, the Marissa was designed to be easier to build and thus not require the strong back hence the use of the cockpit sole. I'm not sure it's a matter of faster so much as necessary for a boat in this size range since Marissa's Hull is only 9mm plywood. If the boat was built up right you'd need just as much support in the form of exterior cradles to define the shape to keep it fair which would entail a lot of extra cradle parts and add to the cost. Why do that when you can just use the permanent frames and be done with it. Additionally the boat is already upside down so the bottom can be finished, glassed, faired, primed, painted and bottom paint and keel protection applied all before the flip. That way only one flip needs to happen whereas an upright build needs to be flipped twice at the minimum. I think the Marissa could be built upright with cradles as described and another designer and friend Adam from salt boatworks builds his kits this way. Here is a picture of his latest 18 foot kit. But you can see the extra cradle parts i mentioned. This build is simliar to our sailboat builds such as the Core Sound 17, 20 and the Mark 3 designs and could be adapted for the Marissa but the Ocracoke with it's strip planked sides would always need to be built upside down. Below, screenshot from saltboatworks 18' design.
  14. Thomas, Yes you are imagining it correctly. The Marissa uses only her actual permanent bulkheads to define the shape and the bottom and side panels are glued to these as well as the keel, chine batten and side stringer. We also use the cockpit sole panels as part of jig sitting on a pair of saw horses to keep the frames square to one another and to ensure the cockpit goes in perfectly. This is covered with plastic and then after flipping up right is pulled out so the interior can be glassed and epoxy coated. All of the interior gets a layer of 10oz glass (with extra glass on the chines). The frames and bottom stringers can be pre coated with 2 coats of epoxy and sanded prior to assembly but if done carefully the entire inside can be completed with almost no sanding. The key is to not get ahead of yourself and work neatly. Do one bay fully then move to the next always hot coating until you have the glass and 3 coats of epoxy done. Here is a short jig setup sequence.
  15. I just checked the plans for the Marissa and it looks like we don't emphasize this in the plans but yes you should cut the corners essentially of the bottom stringers off so allow the compartments to drain inward toward the keel. Here is a picture from the Marissa Construction album where you can see the transverse limber holes in the far aft bottom corner of the bottom stringers. I think you could argue that you don't need a bilge pump on the Marisa if you only go for day trips and don't leave the boat in the water. If you want a bilge pump then I think its just a matter of adding a small hatch to the sole under the motor well so you can drop in a bilge pump on a stick. Something like this (below) so you don't have to reach all the way down and you can remove it or inspect it easily.
  16. Yes that is a big problem (doesn't work when reefed) and eliminates it as an option for us if the boat was to be used for camp sailing or in an event like the Everglades Challenge when we are often reefed in high winds. Our very own Richard Johnson is about to do some testing with our float on his wayfarer an an alternative to the foam pad float in the sail as their club allows reefing while racing that brings up the issue of lowering the flotation. Our two sizes of floats are now available! https://bandbyachtdesigns.com/hardware-and-rigging/aluminum-masts-sailtrack/mast-head-floats/
  17. We've improved the float considerably since our first version. Currently we have a 20lb float and a 30lb float. Here are some pictures of one of the first 20lb floats. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZTwr4HrRCWPGKpVj9 The 20lb would be suitable for the CS-17. The 30lb would be suitable for the 20 Mark 3. Both are assembled from 4 layers of CNC cut blue foam and "speared" with a piece of pvc pipe which makes for a quick and easy assembly that is perfectly aligned. Glass with 4oz cloth. The rotate very nicely on an aluminum "mast" which sticks up from the actual mast. Could also be side mounted on a mast that is not a B&B kit mast. Removes quickly with a cotter pin. I hope to have a few cut out at the mess about. A few have asked for these and it's just another thing on our list of things waiting to be added to the website.
  18. dd97, I am not sure if Cap't Bones is planning to bring his or not. If not then no there won't be one there. Doug has hull #2 but she's not ready for the water quite yet. -Alan
  19. Here is the current list of boats you're likely to see at this years messabout. Sign up and add yours if you don't see it here. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vQNHZyXYwXtqoK0od56zY75FNxF_9VUKYQ40F7PQXo2Onr8ZGtYdFAyzYqKnd2mmtlR70m_qCQdTXk6/pubhtml?gid=0&single=true
  20. More Here! https://bandbyachtdesigns.com/messabout/
  21. The boat was never meant to row. The sides are just too high to make it work. This is by necessity since we're trying to get the maximum volume we can above the CG for self righting also why the coamings/side decks are sealed volumes with hatches, so they don't scoop water. These volumes seen below in green. She will also float quite high in the water on her side but won't be on her side for long with the ballast tank full. It's a pretty big trade off not being able to stow anything under the side decks like on the standard CS-20 but the full self draining cockpit is certainly nice. She was just weighed in at 743lbs empty. The ballast tank is 550lbs
  22. Hey Dave, We still keep a few of those in stock yes but they aren't the default for the 20mk3 just due to the higher cost. There are cheaper options than the ronstan swivel cleat of course. I assume Reacher has the coaming mounted lateral jam cleats on his CS-20 which we still prefer for the open Core Sounds (15, 17, 20) and the Lapwing because they are always right at hand when sailing hiked out and they are very cheap and effective. As always there are lots of ways to cleat a line.
  23. We've been using 3/8" line for the Core Sound 20 sheets for a long time now. The length we're using right now is 44 feet for the Core Sound 20 Mainsheet at 2:1. We have this line available if you'd like to buy from us. We have it in white and blue. Here is a LINK. You can see it in the top of this picture below. We like this line for sheets because it's light, floats and feels good in the hand. It's not a "high performance" line but still has a MWL of 2000lbs. It is a 6 strand single braid. We don't use any 3 strand lines in our line kits. For sheet length we use 10 degree of forward sprit rotation to size the sheet length. But for the CS-20 I like to make sure there is enough sheet that you can let out the sail all the way from one side only. So say your sailing upwind sheeted fully in then you bear off and want to let it all the way out. You don't want to have to let it out from both ends to achieve this because you'd have to reach down the lee side. So we take that into account with the sheet length of 44 feet. If you go with 4:1 you'd need about 90 foot sheet line on the CS-20 to have enough let it all the way out from one side. Of course this assumes that the sheet is mostly centered on the boat to start with. I like to keep a whipping on the center of the sheet line so I can monitor how far off center it is and in a tack i'll occasionally make an adjustment to the sheet to keep it close to equal on both sides. On the 20mk3 which has a 4:1 sheet the sheet ends are cleated on the thwart as opposed to the coaming so it's not as big a deal to let some our from the lee side and for that reason the 20mk3 sheet isn't as long only about 70 feet. As for purchase we use 4:1 on the Core Sound 20 Mk3 mainsheet. The 20mk3 main is about 10 sqft larger. I also used 2:1 on our Core Sound 20 and in high winds it is a bit of hard pull on the mainsheet but I always liked being able to sheet in and out really quickly so I lived with it. The 4:1 sheet in contrast is a lot of pulling and it doesn't ease out nearly as easily in light air. Here is how we have the 20mk3 sheet. What I would do if you want to be able to use 4:1 on your CS-20 occasionally is replace the mainsheet with a longer one that can handle 4:1 and add attachments for a second block on the end of the sprit as well as in the center of the thwart. You can then either use these extra blocks to run the sheet as 4:1 or 2:1 depending on conditions. You can make these snatch blocks (although these can be quite expensive) so that you can snap the mainsheet into them and have 4:1 very quickly on the water or go the cheap route and have to remove one end of the sheet from the cleat and re-reeve it through the center block and second sprit block to get 4:1. That wouldn't be too hard to do on the water while hove to. A way to reduce the sheet length is to attach the upper block to the sprit via a pennant line as seen below. For a 2:1 sheet this reduces the needed sheet length by twice the length of the pennant line. The downside is when you gibe the block swings across at head height so be careful. For a 4:1 setup you need a double block on the spirt as we show and this is why we don't show it on a pennant line. That thing is pretty heavy and we don't want one smacking someone on the side of the head. Hope this helps!
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