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BradW

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BradW last won the day on April 10

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About BradW

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  • Birthday 01/01/1

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  1. I think all these boats have a story. My aunt built hers while she was teaching ceramic arts at Cranbrook in MI in the early '60s and sailed it on the Great Lakes, mostly Lake Michigan, naming it Num-Num, because your wet butt was numb after a few minutes in that water. She went on to do a ton of creative stuff all over, settling in Duck to start an art gallery, where we visited every summer. She passed away early this year, and while I know Num-Num has rot and other issues, sitting in her garage forever, I think I'll be taking it and trying to restore it to its glory. Something to remember family by.
  2. #2: I learned how to sail on a plywood Sailfish my aunt built. Many good hours were spent on Currituck Sound on that boat. For names, well, in the spirit of the model name I'm thinking of small bits blowing across the sea. "Flotsam" perhaps? 🙂 Of course, you will then have to build a matching one, "Jetsam". On trailers, they are not cheap, but the Trailex aluminum trailers are nice. I bought one for my kit boat through the "other" small boat designer, CLC. The Trailex took some patience to assemble, but it works just dandy for my 15' skerry and is very light weight compared to used, steel trailers. SUT-250.
  3. Nice gunwales. I've never tried poplar for something like that. Too much of the poplar I've used for other things was kind of brittle to my mind. It may be a selection thing. I did get Alaskan yellow cedar for another project, and I loved how it worked and turned out. My skerry has mahogany trim and it finished up beautifully. All good woods for some part or another, and it's neat how they feel and smell different when you are working with them.
  4. For a Two-Paw, the amount of wood can't be very large, but if you had a larger project, and are in MD, there are a couple of non-boat specific lumberyards that I've used for either really cool woods or large amounts of cedar, cypress and such. I sourced a lot of nice clear dimensional western red cedar from Hicksville Planing Mill for an outdoor project. Good price, good wood, and you basically go around and pick what you want. They were cash/check only and are far enough out in the sticks that it only makes sense for a big project, but I got sizes I couldn't find closer to home and for 1/2 the price. Exotic Lumber in Frederick has a lot of really cool woods for arty projects or ones where you just gotta have that purpleheart kingplank. I used them for a small amount of really nice teak for a boat project.
  5. Sure looks like a S10. I'll bet if you called up B&B and asked, they could give you a price on the kit parts for the daggerboard and rudder, some assembly required. These are pretty easy parts to build. Depending on where you are, there are lots of community and sailing club learn to sail outreach programs.
  6. I'm all in on that free body diagram and your slide rule! I was in about the last class in high school to use slide rules before scientific calculators became reasonable. Yours is much nicer than my student rule.
  7. Vinylester resins are typically reputed to have respectable adhesion w/ epoxy resins and higher spec that polyesters. Here's an explainer from Mas Epoxy that I found on Jamestown Distributors' site: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=495 Garolite G-10 is a standard epoxy resin/fiberglass product (used in lots of industrial applications) and can be found in angle as well as sheet and rod. But it's a pretty high spec material, often compliant w/ Mil-specs, so it ain't cheap. A clever sort could come up with a vacuum bag or hard mold fixture to crank out some home brew version, but not mil-spec
  8. Here's an example of a polar plot for a keelboat, a Hunter 34 in this case. These are not always public info. They are usually from mfg. prediction software not experimental. Note that the little boat symbols show optimum downwind angle and associated speed for various true wind strengths (shown at the left end of the lines for each wind speed, 8, 10, etc. http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/uploads/monthly_01_2016/post-105471-0-96823000-1452952972.jpg Here's one for a J105, which can plane at higher wind speeds. You'll see the lopsided nature of the plot as wind goes up: In this case, there are separate lines for flying a jib or an asym spinnaker. You can tell by the kinks in the boat speed curves.
  9. Just make sure when you buy SS fasteners, that they are passivated per QQ-P-35, ASTM A967 or equivalent standards. Cheap SS fasteners, including most of those sold by West Marine, etc., are not passivated and will rust much faster. I often buy parts and fasteners from McMaster-Carr because they are very specific about the standards for most of their fasteners and they are fast.
  10. Get the heck out of dodge. This one ain't messing around. Lives can't be fixed w/ some epoxy and 'glass. I'm old enough to remember both Camille and Agnes in Virginia.
  11. That's a heck of a shed also. Almost has a bit of gothic cathedral in it.
  12. Yeah...but what about the rabbits? Are they bummed not having the boat project to hop around? ?
  13. Shims. The shims might be screwed on. I've made shims w/ high density polyethylene (not for a centerboard but similar sliding fit), but they have to be thick enough to countersink flat head screws to hold it down. Practically nothing glues it. The good news is it's naturally slippery and very tough. Or, 1/8" teak plywood, cut and epoxied to the board. Sand as required for final fit, then coat all w/ epoxy and finish as usual. I did something like that to build out the butt of a replacement tiller on my big boat. The replacement was a bit thinner than the original and i didn't want to do any mods to the bronze straps on the tiller head.
  14. I used Kirby's orange "buoy" paint years ago on a ply/epoxy solo canoe I built for my (then) young nephew. He wanted orange, so I got him orange (with cream interior...you guessed, the Creamsicle). It was nice paint but it took forever to cure over the epoxy seal coat. It's not as hard as the urethanes. It does go on bare or primed wood like a dream. I used Brightsides on my latest build and it's harder, I think. Anyway, Interlux Schooner goes on over epoxy just fine. I also had good luck with Epifanes, both the trad clear and the alkydurethane Rapidcoat.
  15. Trailex does variations and semicustoms of their stock trailers. CLC has been having them do specials for several of their boats, including the Pocketship, which weighs about what a CS20 would, though it's shorter.
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