Jump to content

BradW

Members
  • Content Count

    169
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About BradW

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/01/1

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    MD

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Sure looks like a S10. I'll bet if you called up B&B and asked, they could give you a price on the kit parts for the daggerboard and rudder, some assembly required. These are pretty easy parts to build. Depending on where you are, there are lots of community and sailing club learn to sail outreach programs.
  2. I'm all in on that free body diagram and your slide rule! I was in about the last class in high school to use slide rules before scientific calculators became reasonable. Yours is much nicer than my student rule.
  3. Vinylester resins are typically reputed to have respectable adhesion w/ epoxy resins and higher spec that polyesters. Here's an explainer from Mas Epoxy that I found on Jamestown Distributors' site: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=495 Garolite G-10 is a standard epoxy resin/fiberglass product (used in lots of industrial applications) and can be found in angle as well as sheet and rod. But it's a pretty high spec material, often compliant w/ Mil-specs, so it ain't cheap. A clever sort could come up with a vacuum bag or hard mold fixture to crank out some home brew version, but not mil-spec
  4. Here's an example of a polar plot for a keelboat, a Hunter 34 in this case. These are not always public info. They are usually from mfg. prediction software not experimental. Note that the little boat symbols show optimum downwind angle and associated speed for various true wind strengths (shown at the left end of the lines for each wind speed, 8, 10, etc. http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/uploads/monthly_01_2016/post-105471-0-96823000-1452952972.jpg Here's one for a J105, which can plane at higher wind speeds. You'll see the lopsided nature of the plot as wind goes up: In this case, there are separate lines for flying a jib or an asym spinnaker. You can tell by the kinks in the boat speed curves.
  5. Just make sure when you buy SS fasteners, that they are passivated per QQ-P-35, ASTM A967 or equivalent standards. Cheap SS fasteners, including most of those sold by West Marine, etc., are not passivated and will rust much faster. I often buy parts and fasteners from McMaster-Carr because they are very specific about the standards for most of their fasteners and they are fast.
  6. Get the heck out of dodge. This one ain't messing around. Lives can't be fixed w/ some epoxy and 'glass. I'm old enough to remember both Camille and Agnes in Virginia.
  7. That's a heck of a shed also. Almost has a bit of gothic cathedral in it.
  8. Yeah...but what about the rabbits? Are they bummed not having the boat project to hop around? 🙂
  9. Shims. The shims might be screwed on. I've made shims w/ high density polyethylene (not for a centerboard but similar sliding fit), but they have to be thick enough to countersink flat head screws to hold it down. Practically nothing glues it. The good news is it's naturally slippery and very tough. Or, 1/8" teak plywood, cut and epoxied to the board. Sand as required for final fit, then coat all w/ epoxy and finish as usual. I did something like that to build out the butt of a replacement tiller on my big boat. The replacement was a bit thinner than the original and i didn't want to do any mods to the bronze straps on the tiller head.
  10. I used Kirby's orange "buoy" paint years ago on a ply/epoxy solo canoe I built for my (then) young nephew. He wanted orange, so I got him orange (with cream interior...you guessed, the Creamsicle). It was nice paint but it took forever to cure over the epoxy seal coat. It's not as hard as the urethanes. It does go on bare or primed wood like a dream. I used Brightsides on my latest build and it's harder, I think. Anyway, Interlux Schooner goes on over epoxy just fine. I also had good luck with Epifanes, both the trad clear and the alkydurethane Rapidcoat.
  11. Trailex does variations and semicustoms of their stock trailers. CLC has been having them do specials for several of their boats, including the Pocketship, which weighs about what a CS20 would, though it's shorter.
  12. Aging of aluminum is different from anodizing, which is a specific electrochemical process. The thing with the aluminum is to get a good substrate prep. Use one of the aluminum etchants (some are pretty nasty so ventilation and adherence to instructions is the thing) and aluminum specific primer application right afterward. Then the finish coat.
  13. Yeah, those flagpoles are going to weight a lot more than Graham's specified construction. Like 50% more. And may not be any stronger, and you are not wrong about them making you tippy. Weight up high, on the mast, is nearly always considered undesirable.
  14. Yep, I think too many fishermen in the Chesapeake have boats more suited to running to a offshore canyon than getting to the next fishing spot on the Bay. Those brawny deep vees take a lot of hp and fuel to move, and they really toss the wakes around to frustrate small boat sailors like me! If you consider that a reasonable route from Baltimore Light off Gibson Island to the mooring field off Annapolis Yacht Club is only about 10 nautical miles, and the OB20 has publicized speed of 17 knots (20 mph) w/ a 25 hp outboard, it would only take about 35 minutes to make the trip down to Annapolis to sightsee or have dinner. Barely enough time to finish a soda and a sandwich! So if you had to slow down for a sloppy day, it still wouldn't make much difference. BTW, it'll still beat a car to City Dock from Gibson Island! And the ONLY way to take the family to Cantler's crab house on Mill Creek is by boat. Their parking lot is shite!
  15. I have been dominantly a sailor for many years, but spent a lot of time fishing as a kid w/ Dad on the Outer Banks, Oregon Inlet and Pamlico Sound. The OB20 is a refined result of designs created for those NC waters. Pamlico Sound can kick up as nasty a chop as any inland water I've ever seen. I sail the Magothy, Severn, and surrounding Chesapeake now, and the nasty chop on Belvidere Shoal is no worse than the Pamlico Sound on a breezy day. So a well built boat for the Pamlico should do well on the Chesapeake. With kids (and Mom), a place to potty and get out of the wind when tired could be very nice. We had an old lapstrake Thompson (?) 18' runabout when I was young, and my kid brother would bring comics and hide up under the foredeck on some cushions when he got bored. Worked a treat.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.