[Ocracoke 256 #3]

Thanks for posting stats.  I think your build turned out fantastic.

[CS17 #339 launched]

Congratulations, looks like some excellent craftsmanship.

[Marissa # 63]

Don't tell her it's a new boat, just say you had to fix a couple of things on the current one and took it back apart.  Paint them both the same color and scheme, she'll never know the difference.  Otherwise you'll have to hear in the background, "how many boats does he need" like I do.

[Marissa # 63]

Beautiful work and finished in four months!

[Ocracoke 256 #3]

I may stream it live on youtube.  Stay tuned for the link.

[Ocracoke 256 hull #2 Build]

Forward hatch complete... mostly.

 

Ceilings complete.

[Ocracoke 256 #3]

Also called a tumble home bumper for the reasons outlined above.  If you can find a photo with that parallel to the water, it makes the boat look trimmed by the bow so you can't win.

 

Now that all the "experts" have weighed in on the obvious and fatal design flaws in this boat I have decided to burn my build rather that waste anymore time and money on it.  Stay tuned for the bonfire videos.

[Outer Banks 26 #1]

Making good progress, looks very nice.  Thanks for the full album.

[Ocracoke 256 #3]

Congratulations, sure is a beautiful boat.  Looking forward to more pictures and reports on its performance.

[B&B Messabout 2017]

Glad you all had a good time.  Thanks for sharing all the photos, very nice shots.

 

[Marissa # 63]

Amazing progress.  Very nice.

[Ocracoke 256 hull #2 Build]

I've knocked them off then put them back on.  When I looked at the cost and time to bag everything vs. radiusing, I just couldn't justify it.  I have, on the other hand, glassed internal, non-structural, low wear edges with a strip of glass.  I don't have any problem with running the glass up the sides of a piece and then applying another piece on the edge/face.  I am just careful when I sand to avoid going through the sharp edge.  I wouldn't do this with hull bottom/chine areas, but bulkhead edges I wouldn't hesitate.

[Ocracoke 256 hull #2 Build]

 

All the hatch rings installed.  Sole and transom glassed

 

 

[An other OC20 build !!]

I don't see why you can't use threaded rod embedded as you have suggested.  I would suggest using bronze rod for the studs for the best corrosion protection.  If you are interested in a bit more tensile strength, you can widen the bottom of the hole so that the epoxy forms a wedge (cone).  Although the forward location will see shear and compression loading for the most part.

[Ocracoke 256 hull #2 Build]

Sole installation locations readied.

 

Sticking them in.

 

 

One left to do.

 

[Ocracoke 256 hull #2 Build]

The rest of the hatch ring moulds and the parts.

 

 

 

[Ocracoke 256 hull #2 Build]

Forward 2/3's of the ceilings planked,

 

and glassed,

 

 

 

and rough faired,

 

 

 

[An other OC20 build !!]

You're right the lower position looks off, I like the taller position.

[Ocracoke 256 #3]

Thanks for showing this.  Nice to see what others are thinking.

[An other OC20 build !!]

Nice, what changes did you have to make to the mould?

[An other OC20 build !!]

My dad would use sandbags to hold the sheet to the mould while it cooled, rotating the mould if necessary.

[An other OC20 build !!]

very cool

[An other OC20 build !!]

You do some nice work.

[OK256 in Vanuatu]

Glad you're enjoying the fruits of your labor.  Would enjoy some running photos if you have them.

[Ocracoke 256 hull #2 Build]

I like your style.

 

I would have moved along but it was hot and I had epoxy going off and a cluster fork going on with my clamping blocks.  Rushing, it'll get me every time.  Just glad I didn't have a saw in my hand.