smccormick
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Posts posted by smccormick
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This is what 3 or 4 applications of pigmented epoxy can look like. But I did cheat, threw in some microspheres to bump the opacity in a couple layers. Not so much to affect the compression numbers but enough to reduce transparency. Convenience of white.
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You must have spent a small fortune on that solid back rub rail.
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That looks so nice. Great job on the fairing.
I have to agree with PAR on the high build, I would much rather sand primer than epoxy. I suppose the only purpose of high build is to fill scratches and other minor imperfections anyway, so if you can get your surface to 150 grit without it, there's nothing wrong with skipping it. No getting around the finish primer though.
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Very nice finish.
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Looks really nice. Any shots of the interior layout you'd like to share?
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Looking good, Wondered what happened to you.
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On paper yes, in reality no. I made some changes to the design to allow for more room to mount gadgets on the upper surface and changed the angle of the same for better viewing for me. Threw a crown in the top too.
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Almost ran out of spring clamps.
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Nice work Lenm
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Time for a sub panel. Cheap (homeline or murray) at homies. Now installation, that may cost you if you can't DIY it.
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Sorry to hear about your injury. Hope you get back on your feet quickly.
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Paint and fairing compound all in one.
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On 3/23/2018 at 1:42 AM, Alan Stewart said:
What do you have planned for draining the cockpit? I see they are conspicuously absent!
Yeah, that's on the to do list. I just need to allocate a couple days of fretting time before I make that cut. It's a problem I have when building something , I need plenty of time to overthink it. Then I need more.
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All the sole (deck) hatches fabricated.
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I would think you would be good with any of the engines on your radar. I have been a fan of yamaha for years. A friend of mine got a 40 2s on his 13' whaler when I was a kid and he blew the rest of us away on speed. It was also very dependable. Later I put the same engine on my little whaler and it's been 23 years of excellence. I have spent some time on boats with newer 4s models and they generally perform quite well, with the exception of the 225 corrosion issues and the 350 fly wheel debacle.
On the suzuki side, my dad had a 90's vintage 40. It was an enormous POS. Fast forward to spring of 2016, we ended up repowering his boat with a suzuki 250 and it's been a fantastic engine. Quiet, smooth, powerful, trouble free, economical. I think it gets 3.4 MPG at 35 MPH, give or take.
Most of the time the most popular engine in a region will be the line best supported. If you feel you need a high touch ownership experience then go for the product with the best support. If you can handle just about everything that comes up, except warranty work, go with the best value. Of course, I like speed so I would go with the SHO or an E-Tec. OK, or the suzuki.
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I don't know how I talk myself into buying fast cure hardener every fall, "because the cold weather is coming and I'll need it". I just hate fast cure. It's low 50's out and it still kicks in the blink of an eye in the cup. Yes, a very small amount. Before I can get a few joints located and sequentially glued, I have a forest fire going in the cup.
Note to self; Don't buy any more fast cure hardener! You don't need it.
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"The wind is coming up. Tell the boys they can commence with the race"
Meade Gougeon(1938-2017)
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That's really coming along beautifully.
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Speed and depth is critical.
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Maintain my cpr for professional rescuers cert every year. Good skill to have in our repertoire.
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So all of your questions have been well answered. I just wanted to answer the specifics of question 3, the bright transom on sport boats. I spent a good portion of my young life working on these boats and the answer, as always, is yes sometimes.
Newer boats would be veneered with 4/4 or less or even vinyl wraps. Usually there is a step in the transom planking/layup at the boot stripe. The transom planking/veneer would then be glued to the existing structure and all would be planar. All of the boats I remember had the end grain exposed, so the topsides paint would end at the glue line or a bit onto the transom planking.
Older builds would have mahogany/teak planking as a part of the structure connected directly to the transom framework and would be finished bright.
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Fairing the high build primer complete, just a few edges to touch. Need to spot fill a a couple of places, but not much. This is a huge step forward for me. Will be moving on to the deck build and tumble home bumpers next. Yay, something new.
Here's a snicker for you. When I hear of guys using house paint and kills primer on their builds, I admit to cringing more than a little. Then I swept up the sanding dust from the high build fairing effort and realize that I have a $50 bill sitting in the dust pan. All of a sudden, kills sounds like a pretty good idea.
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I like all the little customizations that everyone does. Pretty.
Ocracoke 256 hull #2 Build
in B & B Yachts Forum
Posted
Last hatch receiver fabricated. This one's for the anchor locker, curved to match the foredeck camber.