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Posts posted by Hirilonde

  1. Small electrics are already practical, though pricey compared to petrol. The larger ones are starting to catch on, but they don't seem to have a great range/run time and are very expensive. Technology in DC electric and storage of it are moving fast. It may well come down in price over the next few years.

  2. Andy, the step of a Spindrift mast is shaped to keep the mast from rotating.


    Tim, you will need some really sexy bushings or bearings for the mast to spin on for any hope of a furling line to work. You will also have to remove the boom or put the bushings/bearings above the goose neck. I can't imagine either working. I would just raise the sail and go sailing.

  3. Dealing with the gap is the easy part.  Is the side with the gap now higher than the other? Does it protrude out beyond the topsides?  Do you have to trim the top of one cabin side now to match the other? Do you need to dress down anything sticking out too far?  These would be my concern.


    BTW, you have no shear strake on your boat.  You do have a shear, and that gap is in it.

  4. 22 minutes ago, PadrePoint said:

      I haven’t gotten around yet to making pockets that would neaten up the lines. 

    I find pockets for sheets cause more tangles than loose spaghetti on the cockpit sole.  I coil my mizzen haylyard and tuck it behind where it leads down to the cleat. My main halyard leads aft to  the thwart on the port side deck and I let it spill just forward out of the way of my aft cockpit. If I had a balasted cruising boat I might do differently.

  5. I am only 68, but I am beginning to appreciate your decision Pete.  I am getting close to making aluminum or wood/carbon masts as my birdsmouth  Douglas Fir masts are getting harder to step. Short sails in my Spindrif 9N on the small pond in front of my house are amusing, but I would not want a Spindrift as my only boat. Best to you on your new boat.

  6. You may want to reenforce your aft deck, or at least add a good sized backer for that.  The load is to rip it up and out as well as shear it forward. The nice thing about that style is you can easily remove everything 'cept the small part that mounts semi-permanently. I like it when indications of a motor can go away.  The down side is that you can't lock your motor on as the mount and motor can be removed together and the height doesn't adjust. Tilting your motor is the only adjustment you have. 


    Oh, and I like bronze.  Gonna keep this item in mind should I ever go auxilliary.

  7. 35 minutes ago, Paul356 said:

      Not only does it help me keep them straight, it's much easier to tell guests (like at the family sailing extravaganza last week), "pull that blue rope."  Or more importantly, "keep your butt off that red rope."  Stuff can happen too fast on a dinghy to stand on ceremony. 

    LOL, but yeah, I hadn't thought of this one.

  8. I think all main sheets on small boats are over sized. They are way stronger than needed.  It is done for comfort. I can't imagine you need larger.


    I would never add more advantage to a pulley system than is absolutley needed. It doesn't just create a larger pile of spaghetti in the boat, but slows down trimming.


    I rarely sail with the sprit forward of abeam.  But I like that I can and that I can slow down making a down wind beach landing by dropping the mizzen and dumping the main by sheeting out to forward of a beam.


    I use the soft braid B&B sells. Randy, have you tried marking the lines with colored tape or markers to tell them apart? It took me a year or more to stop making my sheets shorter. I was afraid to make them too short. But I didn't want any more line in the cockpit than necessary. I leave my sheets rigged to the sprits when I break down at the boat ramp. Less to do next time and solves the problem of which is which.

  9. 5 hours ago, Steve W said:

    Is that mizzen sheet double ended? If so, I like that, When hiked up on Skeena, it's tricky to adjust the mizzen sheet, but that would solve things......

    Nothing beats having both main and mizzen sheets going to the center thwart and a swivel block/cam cleat for hiking out. The sheets are always in front of you, with a swivel they allow leading directly at you, the elevation matches hiking for easy cleating and uncleating. The main sheet can be in your lap for quick release.  My mizzen is single ended and uses a traveller. My main sheet is double ended with each swivel out board of the mizzen mast on the thwart to provide the same effect as a traveller and it gives me the 2:1 advantage.  With experience, if it didn't bother me to have the only end some times to lee, and some times to whether, single ended would be fine. It works well from both ends on both tacks. 


    When the wind picks up, nothing makes me feel more comfortable than having the main sheet in my lap, cept maybe my toes under the hiking straps. Even if I don't use either, it is knowing how quickly I can react that gives me the comfort.

  10. 23 hours ago, Paul356 said:

    I wont argue that, except I had a terrible time with my lightweight  brass keel strip buckling as applied so wish I'd put something heavier on.

    Bending half round or half oval is tricky.  Hollow is even trickier.  It wants to kink.  I bend my pieces over a mold before drilling holes.  This helps a lot!! I bet a 3/4" flat stock would work well too. Just file the exposed corners a little after installing.




  11. 4 hours ago, gray duck said:

    thanks for the replies - seems to make more sense to me to put rope on top of the fiberglass ,cuz it is sacrificial

    I dont see how it matters, before or after in regards to wear and repair. What ever you wear away does not expose wood, and you can fill it back in after the damage. Wraping glass around a nice round leading edge would be a lot easier to get fair. I would do the glass after.

  12. You will note Mark, that the guy from North Carolina (warm) likes to slow down the solvent flash off to let it level, and the guy from Washington (cold) likes to add something to speed up the flash off and drying.  Both are sound practices for the conditions and used for many years.

    • Like 1
  13. That trim piece/batten is a thin version of the rub rail and it is glued onto and flush with the bottom edge of the shear plank. Both the rub rail and this trim piece (I know of no name for it) are Teak. The two, frame the plank and add some pzazz the the look of the hull IMO. Tom Lathrop, who conceived of the Lapwing did this and also painted the shear strake green. I have been debating the idea of painting my shear strake a dark blue green myself since I built the boat. But there is just something about white and varnish that is complete as is.


    I glued the trim piece and the rub rail on after the planking was sanded and ready for paint.  I varnished both first, allowing a little varnish to be feathered onto the hull.  Then I masked the Teak and primed and painted the boat. It is a tedious detail to make and maintain, but I like it.

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