Hirilonde

I used slats (short pieces of stringer stock) instead of plywood for the bottom. I might change my mind for long trips, but I find them comfortable with no padding. Each slat gives according to the pressure on it with no hard spots. I have also tried a replacement seat/back rest intended for sit upons. The seat part is quit thin and the added height to the back rest (over just a back band) is nice for coasting or just sitting to enjoy the views. Unless low makes the combing to high to comfortably paddle over, low is my choice.

Quote from PadrePoint's link: Disadvantages: The Buntline Hitch knot cannot be tied under a load and, after being heavily loaded, it is more liable to jam and be awkward to release than two Half Hitches. While a bowline cannot be tied under load either, it is virtually impossible to jamb it up so tight it can't be untied. I will always use a bowline for halyards and sheets.

It's called a non-skid surface.

I would never use any of the so-called penetrating epoxies. You can't fix wood. I would carve out all of the rot, then create a shape that I could fabricate a dutchman for. Then scarf in a piece of compatible wood. If needed I might use a little filler to fair it out.

I would look here...............https://abycinc.org/page/StandardsSupp58

Looks great. I will be anxious to hear how it holds up. Rot and delam certainly will not be issues.

I found aftermarket parts for my surface planer and RO sander from these guys. https://www.ereplacementparts.com/?source=gaws&gclid=CjwKCAjw7cGUBhA9EiwArBAvoiHWmR6WzF9NTnSUH8OIk7yLIGxtM8i9yAV_KL2CmhNkrBuW7l0bShoC-GUQAvD_BwE

Gonna have to borrow this one.

I agree, and you can do that built to Jeff's specs and using 1/2" Balstic Birch

The way we use plywood to make frames is not at all what plywood was invented for. I doubt there is any real testing done on it for how we use it. This being said, we know it can work well. I would think when it comes to resisting the forces to collapse a frame, the Baltic Birch is stronger than Okoume for any given thickness, it is also heavier. But if I wanted to torture plywood into the shape of a boat, nothing comes close to BS 1088 Okoume plywood. This is a lot like the strip canoes people build, always looking for a way to make them lighter. At what point is lighter not better than the strength sacrificed?

I suggest starting a thread in the B&B section of the forum. Some members may not read this section. It will also be a thread you can post updates in and ask other questions.

This makes for one of the best kind of posts in this forum. Critical thinking and sharing ideas, the best.

Bah, Chick just wanted more boats to build.

Tighbond III is like it's cousins and requires clamping and a tight fit to be effective.

Following up to a reply from long ago regarding PFDs. Kayak PFDs, because of the high cut back, are also great for small sailboats, as one leans back against a combing in them as well. If you only want to have to own one, the kayak version seems best over all.

I used solid bronze, drilled the holes myself. I bedded it in BoatLife LifeCaulk as I wanted to be able to remove it easily, which I have done once. The fasteners have plenty of purchase to hold it in place. UHMW plastic would work well. So would a thin strip of hardwood, it can be sacrificial. Some just do nothing and add a strip of hardwood when the wear dictates this is a good idea. I used brass on my kayaks, I see no reason not to use this on your 2 Paw. If you can build it, you can repair or modify it.

All of my boats took about 1.3 quarts of oil based paint. I thinned the first coat approximately 10%. I suggest you compare the price of 2 quarts to 1 gallon and decide from that.

What a relief it must be to be home with Lula. #&%@!@&** vehicles. At least your sailboat will be much more reliable.

My completed Lapwing, loaded with all sailing and safety gear, cooler and such for a day of sailing and the trailer combined weighs 700 pounds. It can be pulled by a Fiat 500.

Or maybe we don't buy the vehicle needed to do the job.

I guess I was much more fortunate than you. I hauled Uinen from RI to FL behind my Toyota Tacoma (small footprint, 4 cylinder). Uinen was loaded with teak and Okoume ply, several hundred pounds, 2 Kudzu kayaks on my lumber rack and the bed full of misc stuff. I even had to drive through NYC, which scared the hell out of me, but made it without incident. Good luck with the rest of the trip.

This isn't practical for many, but I know a couple people who dip their trailer in a fresh water pond on the way home.

Looks like checking to me.

And while you are at it, drill your pilot and clearance holes so they line up too.

I don't need any more extensions. Please post photos to this forum.