Hirilonde

This isn't practical for many, but I know a couple people who dip their trailer in a fresh water pond on the way home.

Looks like checking to me.

And while you are at it, drill your pilot and clearance holes so they line up too.

I don't need any more extensions. Please post photos to this forum.

I had pondered building my own mount that would work on the side, vs. stern. I think it would be easier to mount the motor while on the water. I would only use the thing in no wind, so healing would be of no concern. No real thought into how it would secure, just a pondering at this point.

Interesting. I would be curious as to whether it really added any significant abrasion resistance. It says it is flexible, which is a big plus.

The rolled seam is easier, I think the double cord looks better. The double cord is one of the things I call fiddly. It takes a little practice. But I would never suggest anyone not try something they are determined to learn and do.

Does she hire out?

I have 2 rollers for my Lapwing 15'-8 1/4"

I agree with Peter on choice and reasons.

Don, battery wiring, especially longer runs, needs to be serious stuff. Both for safety and for avoiding voltage drop. I don't think the ABYC would endorse your solution.

Ken, no, I am a RI guy who worked at a marina in Stonnington. One of my perks there was a free in water and winter storage for my boat.

It can make a huge difference. I kept my boat in Stonnington Harbor CT for several years where I barely needed to wipe the waterline for the 6 months. I moved to Wickford Harbor RI and with the same paint I had barnacles showing in less than a month.

If weeks is the max time it is left in the water I don't think the effectiveness of the anti-fouling is a serious issue. You can always beach the boat and give the bottom a going over with a kitchen scrubby pad every 2 or 3 weeks. You do need something besides the LPU. I always used an ablative on my displacement boat, but it stayed in for 6 months. I think in your case I would look for a hard paint that meets your environmental laws.

Hmm, that Dri-Dek looks like a great solution. Like floor boards, just lift them out to clean the boat.

The only real down side to any non-skid surface is keeping it clean. I made floor boards for my Lapwing. They are very thin (5/16" thick on 1/2" sleepers). They are only in the aft part of the cockpit. The forward part twists too much. Floor boards are good for keeping you feet out of the small puddle that forms magically from completely unknown water sources.

My hull is the 'old' System 3 WR LPU. It isn't nearly as glossy as solvent based LPUs, but for a classic look boat I like it better than high gloss. It has stood up well. Doing large surfaces with the stuff is tricky. It sets up really fast and is hard to keep a wet edge, even with 2 people (1 rolling and 1 tipping). But because you can do one plank at a time it really isn't an issue on the Lapwing. I used a small diameter roller and tipped with a 2" brush. If you think there will be an issue going directly to the next plank, switch to the other side and come back when it is dry to the touch. Check your instructions, but the old stuff had a 24 hour hot recoat time, even though it was dry to the touch in very little time. At first I did the interior with it as well. I left my boat open at a marina for a couple years. The small puddles that didn't drain through the bailer and sat for a while caused pealing in the bilge. I switched to 1 part poly for the interior. Looking good!

Piano hinges give you the maximum support for the circumstances. A lot of small screws with proper pilot holes will provide great purchase and little fastener fatigue. I used brass hinges with bronze screws.

When I had my residential contracting business I always told my carpenters there is no such thing as pefection, but I want it to look like there is. I hope your situation is hideable.

A 360° white light on a sailboat is an anchor light only. To have one lit while steaming would be a deception and dangerous. A stern light is to be used at all times after dark, along with the red and green. A steaming light is for a sailboat under power at night. It is only fairly recently that the Coast Guard has approved masthead tri color lights as running lights under sail. It used to be that some offshore boats would have both the hull/cabin mounted and masthead running lights. The masthead lights only being used off shore, where the CG had no jurisdiction as they were safer in big waves. I think I would be confused if I saw the masthead tricolor and a steaming light in the dark. I'd probably figure it out, but the old configuration is burnt into my head.

A steaming light is white, but should only shine for a radius of 225° centered forward. A 360° white light located any where can be used for an anchor light. I would hang one from my boom over the cockpit when anchoring in my Renegade. An anchor light is to keep people from hitting you at night, and something down low can do this better in a crowded harbor, and works well in more isolated areas as well.

I don't like to pre-coat, but as Joe has pointed out, there are a couple situations in a boat that cry out for it. Under the seat tops is one IMO. I am a huge fan of hot coating. So much so that I will set an alarm for the middle of the night if I must to work a good hot coat schedule. Reducing sanding this significantly, is worth that much to me.

Great advice! Way too many boats at moorings or slips have slime lines at the water line because they didn't do this. Even if not loaded, the growth extends above the actual water line due to waves keeping it wet. It does not look ugly to see a little bottom paint. A slime line is always ugly.

https://www.eia.gov/energyexplained/electricity/how-electricity-is-generated.php

Scarfing seems to intimidate many who have not tried it yet. Most who try, find it easier than they thought, though using a hand plane and/or belt sander does require a bit of familiarity. I found 4 sheets at a time to be the best for me. I line them up staggered by 8 times the thickness. That is, each sheet is set back from the one under it by this 8x the thickness measurement. (1/4", better known as 6 mm sheets are set back 2" or 48 mm) I built a temporary 16' bench for scarfing, gluing and cutting out these large pieces.