Hirilonde
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Posts posted by Hirilonde
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Following up to a reply from long ago regarding PFDs. Kayak PFDs, because of the high cut back, are also great for small sailboats, as one leans back against a combing in them as well. If you only want to have to own one, the kayak version seems best over all.
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I used solid bronze, drilled the holes myself. I bedded it in BoatLife LifeCaulk as I wanted to be able to remove it easily, which I have done once. The fasteners have plenty of purchase to hold it in place. UHMW plastic would work well. So would a thin strip of hardwood, it can be sacrificial. Some just do nothing and add a strip of hardwood when the wear dictates this is a good idea. I used brass on my kayaks, I see no reason not to use this on your 2 Paw. If you can build it, you can repair or modify it.
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All of my boats took about 1.3 quarts of oil based paint. I thinned the first coat approximately 10%. I suggest you compare the price of 2 quarts to 1 gallon and decide from that.
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What a relief it must be to be home with Lula. #&%@!@&** vehicles. At least your sailboat will be much more reliable.
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My completed Lapwing, loaded with all sailing and safety gear, cooler and such for a day of sailing and the trailer combined weighs 700 pounds. It can be pulled by a Fiat 500.
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19 minutes ago, Don Silsbe said:
I don’t think the Japanese engineers of these products have any idea how we use them here in the States.
Or maybe we don't buy the vehicle needed to do the job.
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I guess I was much more fortunate than you. I hauled Uinen from RI to FL behind my Toyota Tacoma (small footprint, 4 cylinder). Uinen was loaded with teak and Okoume ply, several hundred pounds, 2 Kudzu kayaks on my lumber rack and the bed full of misc stuff. I even had to drive through NYC, which scared the hell out of me, but made it without incident. Good luck with the rest of the trip.
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This isn't practical for many, but I know a couple people who dip their trailer in a fresh water pond on the way home.
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Looks like checking to me.
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3 hours ago, Kudzu said:
You can clamp the two together and even them out. When I was making kits I always put the coaming together temporarily and sanded it to get perfect mating surfaces.
And while you are at it, drill your pilot and clearance holes so they line up too.
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I don't need any more extensions. Please post photos to this forum.
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I had pondered building my own mount that would work on the side, vs. stern. I think it would be easier to mount the motor while on the water. I would only use the thing in no wind, so healing would be of no concern. No real thought into how it would secure, just a pondering at this point.
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Interesting. I would be curious as to whether it really added any significant abrasion resistance. It says it is flexible, which is a big plus.
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The rolled seam is easier, I think the double cord looks better. The double cord is one of the things I call fiddly. It takes a little practice. But I would never suggest anyone not try something they are determined to learn and do.
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Does she hire out?
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I have 2 rollers for my Lapwing 15'-8 1/4"
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I agree with Peter on choice and reasons.
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Don, battery wiring, especially longer runs, needs to be serious stuff. Both for safety and for avoiding voltage drop. I don't think the ABYC would endorse your solution.
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Ken, no, I am a RI guy who worked at a marina in Stonnington. One of my perks there was a free in water and winter storage for my boat.
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2 hours ago, Don Silsbe said:
I wonder if the marine life varies from region to region enough to require this variation.
It can make a huge difference. I kept my boat in Stonnington Harbor CT for several years where I barely needed to wipe the waterline for the 6 months. I moved to Wickford Harbor RI and with the same paint I had barnacles showing in less than a month.
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If weeks is the max time it is left in the water I don't think the effectiveness of the anti-fouling is a serious issue. You can always beach the boat and give the bottom a going over with a kitchen scrubby pad every 2 or 3 weeks. You do need something besides the LPU. I always used an ablative on my displacement boat, but it stayed in for 6 months. I think in your case I would look for a hard paint that meets your environmental laws.
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Hmm, that Dri-Dek looks like a great solution. Like floor boards, just lift them out to clean the boat.
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The only real down side to any non-skid surface is keeping it clean. I made floor boards for my Lapwing. They are very thin (5/16" thick on 1/2" sleepers). They are only in the aft part of the cockpit. The forward part twists too much. Floor boards are good for keeping you feet out of the small puddle that forms magically from completely unknown water sources.
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My hull is the 'old' System 3 WR LPU. It isn't nearly as glossy as solvent based LPUs, but for a classic look boat I like it better than high gloss. It has stood up well. Doing large surfaces with the stuff is tricky. It sets up really fast and is hard to keep a wet edge, even with 2 people (1 rolling and 1 tipping). But because you can do one plank at a time it really isn't an issue on the Lapwing. I used a small diameter roller and tipped with a 2" brush. If you think there will be an issue going directly to the next plank, switch to the other side and come back when it is dry to the touch. Check your instructions, but the old stuff had a 24 hour hot recoat time, even though it was dry to the touch in very little time.
At first I did the interior with it as well. I left my boat open at a marina for a couple years. The small puddles that didn't drain through the bailer and sat for a while caused pealing in the bilge. I switched to 1 part poly for the interior.
Looking good!
Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Skeena"
in B & B Yachts Forum
Posted
Tighbond III is like it's cousins and requires clamping and a tight fit to be effective.