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Posts posted by Hirilonde

  1. 3 hours ago, Captain Tim said:

    An all around LED white could be used while anchored or steaming.


    A steaming light is white, but should only shine for a radius of 225° centered forward. A 360° white light located any where can be used for an anchor light. I would hang one from my boom over the cockpit when anchoring in my Renegade. An anchor light is to keep people from hitting you at night, and something down low can do this better in a crowded harbor, and works well in more isolated areas as well.

  2. I don't like to pre-coat, but as Joe has pointed out, there are a couple situations in a boat that cry out for it.  Under the seat tops is one IMO.


    I am a huge fan of hot coating.  So much so that I will set an alarm for the middle of the night if I must to work a good hot coat schedule. Reducing sanding this significantly, is worth that much to me.

  3. 13 hours ago, BradW said:

    In addition, if you are putting on bottom paint and will be cruising the boat, likely it'll be sitting around with a bit more payload aboard than normal, so I'd consider running the bottom paint an extra inch or so higher than DWL so it doesn't develop a line of grunge on the topside paint while sitting.  My big keelboat had that stain line just at the boot stripe, so I had it raised up when the yard repainted it.

    Great advice!  Way too many boats at moorings or slips have slime lines at the water line because they didn't do this.  Even if not loaded, the growth extends above the actual water line due to waves keeping it wet.  It does not look ugly to see a little bottom paint. A slime line is always ugly.

  4. Scarfing seems to intimidate many who have not tried it yet. Most who try, find it easier than they thought, though using a hand plane and/or belt sander does require a bit of familiarity. I found 4 sheets at a time to be the best for me.  I line them up staggered by 8 times the thickness.  That is, each sheet is set back from the one under it by this 8x  the thickness measurement. (1/4", better known as 6 mm sheets are set back 2" or 48 mm) I built a temporary 16' bench for scarfing, gluing and cutting out these large pieces.

  5. There must be at least a half dozen variations on rigging the centerboard on B&B boats.


    It looks like you have a closed trunk and just an uphaul for the centerboard.  If this is so, then you likely have a weighted board as well.  If this is so, then a repair underway would be near impossible, but also unnecessary. Sail to the ramp, pull your boat keeping in mind you will have to lift the board manually as you load it.  Go home and fix it.


    There should be a cap on either side of the trunk, probably round, near the bottom and forward.  If you remove these caps you will expose the pin the board pivots on.  Tap the pin out from one side to the other and the board is free to drop out the bottom. It sounds, and actually is simple, but it sure can be a fiddley thing to do. Make sure to seal the cap, bed it, when you replace it.

  6. On 12/24/2021 at 12:22 PM, PadrePoint said:

    I’ve appreciated the No-Ads approach of being a supporting member… at $12/year ($1/month)


    I agree, it is a small price to pay to help support the financial burden of this forum and no ads is a great motivator. Frank should not have to bear the burden of the money to run this forum, and I doubt sincerely he is getting rich off this place. This forum is like my subscription to the Washington Post, it is part of my daily reading.

    • Like 2
  7. I have yet to hear of a single epoxy that is completely blush free. This means that what ever brand you choose, it would be wise to wash the epoxy surface before putting anything on top of it.  Even better, before you sand and again after. So IMO it doesn't matter at all how much it blushes, I will clean it thoroughly any how.

  8. People come to this forum because of the wealth of knowledge so many members have.  Speculation lowers the standard and sometimes misleads.  When in doubt, ask questions or do more homework. With all due respect, and I mean it too, I will call people out who present unfounded technical opinions.

  9. On 12/13/2021 at 8:36 PM, Kennneee said:

    .  I have also read that the 5:1 mix is more likely to cause a allergic reaction.  I can’t verify this but it is worth investigating.

    It really is best not to type something if you don't know. A skeptic investigates when in doubt.

    On 12/15/2021 at 2:58 PM, Salty Cracker said:

    More prone to amine blush too... right? I don't remember where I read/heard that.

    Same comment as above.  And even is so, wipe it off with water.

  10. I found that trailers are built for power boats.  I bought one designed for a 14 foot boat. It was designed to have a really heavy hunk of iron on the transom of a 14 foot boat.  This turned out to be a perfect balance for a 16 foot boat with no iron on the transom.  The only thing I regret is not getting a trailer with the wheels far enough apart for the boat to ride low between them. Being able to reach into the boat on the trailer while standing on the ground is a huge benefit, especially for cleaning up.

  11. I have absolutely no issues with any of the mixes.  West System is 5:1 and I am mixing half pump by eye batches all the time with no cure problems.  If I were ordering a kit I would buy B&B because of price.  I keep my shop stocked with West because I just use it for small projects these days.

    • Like 1
  12. It is a chemical reaction. Heat is a catalyst for that reaction, and the actual curing generates heat.  When I built my Lapwing in a tent in the winter I heated the resin all the time.  I have done jobs in the summer where I left the resin jug in a bath of ice water so that when I mixed it I had a little extra time. Epoxy, once mixed, will kick off rather quickly if left in the mixing pot, it will cure more slowly once spread out. Another way to regulate cure time is by choosing fast or slow hardener.

    • Like 1
  13. An anchor light does not even have to be on top of the mast at all.  Some say it is better to have one closer to the water as it will be seen by boats close by better than if it were up high. I used to hang a miners lamp from my boom over the cockpit on my Renegade.

    • Like 1
  14. 1 hour ago, Mark Rendelman said:

     But this now has me re thinking the 360 degree masthead light I had planned to mount it directly to the wood plug at the top of the mast.now if I. Install this I need to figure out how to mount the lightl any thoughts on this


    Do you mean a 360° white anchor light?  Or a combo red/green/white running lights?

  15. You can't go wrong with West, they wrote the book on epoxy, additives and procedures.  But it is expensive. I have tried some TotalBoat products and been satisfied.  Haven't tried the epoxy.  I bought B&B epoxy, wood flour/Cabosil mix, glass tape and pumps for my builds.  Much cheaper and I found no draw backs using it. Dunno who made it, don't really care, it wouldn't mean anything if I did know. If you order the amounts suggested in the plans, from B&B, at the time you order your kit,  you will get it in time and end up with a tad left over, unless you are a complete slob, and then probably still have enough to finish.

  16. 15 minutes ago, Don Silsbe said:

    @Hirilonde— I’m currently refurbishing a boat for a friend that did not use epoxy as a sealer,  I think I caught it in time, however.  Your treatment on the grips is interesting.  I might have to try that.  So far, I’ve not treated them with anything except the “oils” from my hands.  


    It isn't really needed if the oars are stored indoors or under cover.  But letting a little oil soak in once in a while can only be positive. And you still have the non-skid of natural wood.

    • Like 1
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