Hirilonde

I like varnish, real varnish on just about everything wood! (note the explamation mark) Bristol Finish is a clear 2 part LPU. I despise the stuff for a couple reasons. It is harder to repair than 1 part polyurethanes, and they are a PITA. The gloss comes from isocyanates, like in solvent based LPU paints, so there is a health issue. Brushing it is risky, spraying it is outright dangersous without supplied air and a suit.

hey Steve, You might want to start this thread in the B&B section of this forum. All those who document their B&B builds do it there. You will get lots of help and answers/ideas. I built a 9 Nesting, so the numbers you quote mean nothing to me. I can tell you that the bow, when nested is above the transom. So if that is where you are measuring from to conclude it doesn't seem to fit, I would not be alarmed.

The rub rails on my Lapwing are made of short pieces scarfed. If you do a nice 8:1 scarf, I see no issues.

Looks like it is for a bungee chord coming from a cover or dodger.

I get the impression the Amanda was designed for its simplicity in building, specifically for the build your own exhibit at the WoodenBoat Show at Mystic Seaport. The participants can build the basic shell in the 3 days of the show, and finish it off at home. Unlike the Spindrift, there is no torturing plywood to shape. The folding process of the Spindrift can be tedious and difficult for first time builders. The down side to the Amanda is the bow entry. A Spindrift will handle sloppy waves better, will pound less as it can cut through waves better than the Amanda. Even with the same rig, I would think the Spindrift would sail faster, especially to weather. I would think the Amanda gets up on a plane under power quicker and easier, but will pound more in waves. All around, I think the Spindrift is a better boat, but that opinion is some what subjective.

I tripped over this video, thought people could get a laugh out of the first part of it. https://www.facebook.com/watch?v=457291399753678

He wouldn't need to. With some finagelling and jockeying around, he could use the jack stands to lift the boat off the trailer and keep it there. Then do the reverse and slide the trailer back under the boat. 4 Jack stands, with padding on the plates, placed at bulkheads where they meet the chines, in 2 pairs, would be where I would put them in the end for storage. Give me a lever long enough, and a place to stand, and I could move the earth.

It is an add on. And if you don't like it down the road, cut it out and try something else.

As a kid in RI, they were called Elvstrom bailers, after the designer, the great dinghy sailor, Paul Elvstrom. I have one in my Lapwing, definitely use it. https://www.rigrite.com/Hardware/Bailers/Elvstrom_Bailers.php No matter what you use for bailing, there always seems to be a little water in the bilge. Even when you sponge it dry, it reappears. I installed floor boards in the aft cockpit of my Lapwing. I keep a small bucket on a tether, and a nice grout sponge handy.

knee n. an angular reinforcing structure used when 2 members come together at an angle "Nautical Terms, Thompson Lenestey with Capt. Thompson Lenfesty JR I think that makes both of us correct Chick. Quarter knee is a little more specific in this case.

Yeah, as long as the holes are rounded a bit to avoid chafing the line. Don't forget to dull the bottom of the holes as well, even if just with a rasp or coarse sand paper.

I suggest puting holes in the middle of your transom knees. This gives you both stern quarters to add lines, and no hardware to snag on things or bruise oneself on.

You guys are old farts, only our 43rd next month.

My fore hatch on my Lapwing is oval, so 2 hinges were the answer. I went with brass. My seat hatches have piano hinges.

No, the trunk does not pass thru the slot. I did a couple scribe and fits until it fit well, both to the hull, and have the top come out flush with the bulkheads. To avoid removing too much, I started by removing too little and fitted and scribed in progression till I got it just right. The trunk, and steps/partners require very exacting build and fit. I never thought about running the trunk through the slot and then trim. I haven't really pondered this idea, but off hand it sounds pretty clever.

The first thing I ask a new builder, no matter what building process we are discussing, will you have fun building the boat? The answer must be yes. You don't really build your own boat to save money, certainly not to save time. It is a very affordable way to get a boat, but only if it is fun. We can debate building techniques, but I see no point. I built a dory skiff the old fashion way, with all bronze screws and copper rivets. The result was a nice boat and I had a lot of fun, I win. I have built 5 Kudzu kayaks, and had fun there too, and I still have mine. I have built 2 stitch'n'glue boats, and a glued lap boat. I enjoyed all 3 builds and I am particularly fond of my B&B Lapwing. I have watched total novices document their B&B plywood boats, and Kudzu fuselage frame boats here in this forum. If you have the patience, and are not shy about asking questions, you will find all the support you need to build right here.

Be careful what you say, boat projects always take twice al long as you thought Looking good. Getting the hull fair would have been my biggest concern, and you seem to have made good there.

Pictures would help. How is the hull shape? If the damage has allowed the tortured into place plywood to move, it may not be even remotely a simple repair. If the shape is good, then glass/epoxy repairs might just do it.

Joe: 3 aluminum sections for an S10? My S9 has just 2 plus a smaller wooden top section. I used a DF closet pole for mine.

It doesn't take much of a shop to build a Spindrift mast to plans.

https://bandbyachtdesigns.com/ocracoke20b

Thickened epoxy? Sure looks like neat epoxy to me.

The amount any boat is used, is inversely proportional to how much of a PITA it is to get to and into the water. Light weight matters a lot.

I made fitted cradles out of 2x6 padded with carpet. They attach to the rack on my pickup. I lash across both cradles and use a line foreward. Worked great, RI to FL. There is a FreeB 12 behind the Curlew that you can see.

When I have to use epoxy in really hot weather, I place the cans/jugs in a water/ice bath before mixing. This at least gives me a head start. It may be a bit thick in the cold state, but warms very quickly as I spread it out. I don't know if some variation on this cooling idea would help. Another thought is to become 2 people, one to roll and one to tip. ?