Hirilonde

Yeah, as long as the holes are rounded a bit to avoid chafing the line. Don't forget to dull the bottom of the holes as well, even if just with a rasp or coarse sand paper.

I suggest puting holes in the middle of your transom knees. This gives you both stern quarters to add lines, and no hardware to snag on things or bruise oneself on.

You guys are old farts, only our 43rd next month.

My fore hatch on my Lapwing is oval, so 2 hinges were the answer. I went with brass. My seat hatches have piano hinges.

No, the trunk does not pass thru the slot. I did a couple scribe and fits until it fit well, both to the hull, and have the top come out flush with the bulkheads. To avoid removing too much, I started by removing too little and fitted and scribed in progression till I got it just right. The trunk, and steps/partners require very exacting build and fit. I never thought about running the trunk through the slot and then trim. I haven't really pondered this idea, but off hand it sounds pretty clever.

The first thing I ask a new builder, no matter what building process we are discussing, will you have fun building the boat? The answer must be yes. You don't really build your own boat to save money, certainly not to save time. It is a very affordable way to get a boat, but only if it is fun. We can debate building techniques, but I see no point. I built a dory skiff the old fashion way, with all bronze screws and copper rivets. The result was a nice boat and I had a lot of fun, I win. I have built 5 Kudzu kayaks, and had fun there too, and I still have mine. I have built 2 stitch'n'glue boats, and a glued lap boat. I enjoyed all 3 builds and I am particularly fond of my B&B Lapwing. I have watched total novices document their B&B plywood boats, and Kudzu fuselage frame boats here in this forum. If you have the patience, and are not shy about asking questions, you will find all the support you need to build right here.

Be careful what you say, boat projects always take twice al long as you thought Looking good. Getting the hull fair would have been my biggest concern, and you seem to have made good there.

Pictures would help. How is the hull shape? If the damage has allowed the tortured into place plywood to move, it may not be even remotely a simple repair. If the shape is good, then glass/epoxy repairs might just do it.

Joe: 3 aluminum sections for an S10? My S9 has just 2 plus a smaller wooden top section. I used a DF closet pole for mine.

It doesn't take much of a shop to build a Spindrift mast to plans.

https://bandbyachtdesigns.com/ocracoke20b

Thickened epoxy? Sure looks like neat epoxy to me.

The amount any boat is used, is inversely proportional to how much of a PITA it is to get to and into the water. Light weight matters a lot.

I made fitted cradles out of 2x6 padded with carpet. They attach to the rack on my pickup. I lash across both cradles and use a line foreward. Worked great, RI to FL. There is a FreeB 12 behind the Curlew that you can see.

When I have to use epoxy in really hot weather, I place the cans/jugs in a water/ice bath before mixing. This at least gives me a head start. It may be a bit thick in the cold state, but warms very quickly as I spread it out. I don't know if some variation on this cooling idea would help. Another thought is to become 2 people, one to roll and one to tip. ?

I used slats (short pieces of stringer stock) instead of plywood for the bottom. I might change my mind for long trips, but I find them comfortable with no padding. Each slat gives according to the pressure on it with no hard spots. I have also tried a replacement seat/back rest intended for sit upons. The seat part is quit thin and the added height to the back rest (over just a back band) is nice for coasting or just sitting to enjoy the views. Unless low makes the combing to high to comfortably paddle over, low is my choice.

Quote from PadrePoint's link: Disadvantages: The Buntline Hitch knot cannot be tied under a load and, after being heavily loaded, it is more liable to jam and be awkward to release than two Half Hitches. While a bowline cannot be tied under load either, it is virtually impossible to jamb it up so tight it can't be untied. I will always use a bowline for halyards and sheets.

It's called a non-skid surface.

I would never use any of the so-called penetrating epoxies. You can't fix wood. I would carve out all of the rot, then create a shape that I could fabricate a dutchman for. Then scarf in a piece of compatible wood. If needed I might use a little filler to fair it out.

I would look here...............https://abycinc.org/page/StandardsSupp58

Looks great. I will be anxious to hear how it holds up. Rot and delam certainly will not be issues.

I found aftermarket parts for my surface planer and RO sander from these guys. https://www.ereplacementparts.com/?source=gaws&gclid=CjwKCAjw7cGUBhA9EiwArBAvoiHWmR6WzF9NTnSUH8OIk7yLIGxtM8i9yAV_KL2CmhNkrBuW7l0bShoC-GUQAvD_BwE

Gonna have to borrow this one.

I agree, and you can do that built to Jeff's specs and using 1/2" Balstic Birch

The way we use plywood to make frames is not at all what plywood was invented for. I doubt there is any real testing done on it for how we use it. This being said, we know it can work well. I would think when it comes to resisting the forces to collapse a frame, the Baltic Birch is stronger than Okoume for any given thickness, it is also heavier. But if I wanted to torture plywood into the shape of a boat, nothing comes close to BS 1088 Okoume plywood. This is a lot like the strip canoes people build, always looking for a way to make them lighter. At what point is lighter not better than the strength sacrificed?