Hirilonde

Yeah, like Don, no bottom paint, for the same reason

I am in Morocco, so watching videos is tedious. I found the top 2, full length fiberglass battens too stiff for light to moderate winds. I spent a lot of time playing around with Maple, making them of various thicknesses and tapering to thin from a few inches aft of the leading end back to about 1/4 way aft. I am not usually OCD, but when it comes to sail shape, bah, even the rest of the boat, I am a fanatic. I am pleased with the result. The amount of bend can then be adjusted by the tension applied by the Velcro strap holding them in. If you want more info I can post pictures when I get home.

I added floorboards to my Lapwing in the aft portion of cockpit. Not for support, but to stay above the bit of water that always seems to be present. I never put them in my Spindrift 9. No real need, and added weight I did not want. It is easy to turn the boat over if any water, unlike my Lapwing. BTW, I did not glass either boat. I did not want the added weight. Light is faster.

I can plane my Lapwing in just under 15 kts of wind solo. I start out on a broad reach and hike out as I head up a little and trim in accordingly. I have hiking straps in the aft cockpit. I believe the Lapwing has less wetted surface than the CS 15. It has a rounded hull and it seems it has more rocker. So I would venture that the Lapwing is faster in light winds.

I used System 3 for my entire Lapwing except for the deck and transom which are varnished. Because I stored my boat outside on the trailer at the marina where I worked during the summer, it often had a small amount of rain water in the bilge. This caused some pealing of the paint on the inside of the bottom. The System 3 has stood up well every where else. I switched to a 1 part poly for the bilge, and eventually the entire interior.

That would be what I would go with based on my past experiences.

I carved 7' oars for my Spindrift 9. I find them just right. Pete Culler's book says I should make 10 footers for my Lapwing. I find them too long, I think 9' would have been better.

I have done much the same as Don. Grab my cooler with ice and drinks, maybe some snacks, and off I go. Everything else was stored and ready to go. Even added a drawer under the center thwart/partner for the small stuff.

I switched numbers after buying the plans. When I ordered my sails I had plans #20. I switched the sail numbers later.

Take your fenders in you landlubber!

Your assessment of performance is right on. Yeah, the Lapwing makes meeting people at the ramp really easy. I have yet to find any need for an outboard of any kind. I am patient in very light wind, and as you have noticed, a Lapwing can be moved in them. It all boils down to how often do you expect to be becalmed? And can you row that far (what ever that far is for you), do you want to have to row that far? There is a freedom not having power on board.

I use https://www.onlineindustrialsupply.com/ Their product is as good as any, and decent prices. All sand paper loads, especially when sanding epoxy or oily woods like Teak. Using an old sneaker sole helps remove some of the clogging and extends the life of each disc a bit.

Jeff's 15 footers come in in the low 30s or so pounds. Even they would be easy to pull on a dolly.

Back before B&B offered UHMW plastic connecting hardware for nesting boats a forum member Garry designed SS hardware for the purpose. I made them for my Spindrift. Almost 20 years later they still work. Nice simple hinge, and the rest of the boat looks great too.

I slightly chamfered the pin on both ends to help in sliding it in place.

The side deck reinforces the gunwals and provides a place to sit in a good wind. Dunno if reinforcement is necessary. It is also where many of use lead our main halyard, shotter and downhaul. On my Lapwing, the foredeck and a bulkhead create a dry storage place and flotation. I am all for customizing my boats, but there are many things that I say would be a mistake. I paid for an expert's design, and I won't try to fix it.

That is good to hear. So for those who want to save even a few more pounds, and don't mind buying an expensive sheet of plywood to do it, there is an option.

@Peter HK yup, epoxy goes from quite elastic to brittle over a couple weeks.

I did my bushings in stages, measuring after the epoxy set, but not fully cured, until they were the correct size. I hate sanding any more than I have to and more than having to add wraps.

The removable seat is for facing aft. If I wanted to face forward I would use the aft seat/flotation. It is slightly aft of perfect, but not so much that you would notice. It is located fore/aft exactly where I sit solo sailing, just aft of the middle thwart/mast partner. I wanted it to work with the masts still in place. And it works with the sails still raised, though for long distance I would take them down. Lubberly would be using an outboard.

I am still pleased with the removable seat, the location and design of the rowlocks and the oars in general. I think I would make them 9' instead of the 10' Pete Culler's formula resulted in. I am still happy with the carbon fiber connection ferrules from Duckworks. I also have a canoe paddle mounted to the side of the centerboard trunk for use near the dock. It is quick and easy to access and use. That, and the fact that it is wooden and gave me another project to do after the boat was done. I find making paddles and oars very satisfying.

I use my tiller extension on my Spindrift and Lapwing every time I go sailing, regardless of wind speed. The only time I remove them is to varnish.

But does it float? Looks great, now the 2nd part of the fun.

LOL, yeah. Was trying to condense what they do to a single sentence. This is the set I have................https://hardwickandsons.com/products/w-l-fuller-8-countersink-drill-set

When I build a traditional plank on frame boat I use bronze wood screws with a frearson drive. I use my Fuller combination counter sink, clearance and pilot tapered bits adjusted to depth.