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Posts posted by Hirilonde

  1. When I have to use epoxy in really hot weather, I place the cans/jugs in a water/ice bath before mixing.  This at least gives me a head start. It may be a bit thick in the cold state, but warms very quickly as I spread it out. I don't know if some variation on this cooling idea would help.


    Another thought is to become 2 people, one to roll and one to tip. ?


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  2. I used slats (short pieces of stringer stock) instead of plywood for the bottom. I might change my mind for long trips, but I find them comfortable with no padding.  Each slat gives according to the pressure on it with no hard spots. I have also tried a replacement seat/back rest intended for sit upons.  The seat part is quit thin and the added height to the back rest (over just a back band) is nice for coasting or just sitting to enjoy the views. Unless low makes the combing to high to comfortably paddle over, low is my choice.

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  3. On 6/26/2022 at 11:23 AM, zumwaltd said:

    Graham, I had been tying the halyard to the headboard with a bowline.  I will learn the buntline.  Thanks for your ideas and thanks PadrePoint for the link.





    Quote  from PadrePoint's link:  Disadvantages: The Buntline Hitch knot cannot be tied under a load and, after being heavily loaded, it is more liable to jam and be awkward to release than two Half Hitches.

    While a bowline cannot be tied under load either, it is virtually impossible to jamb it up so tight it can't be untied. I will always use a bowline for halyards and sheets.

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  4. 4 hours ago, Chick Ludwig said:

     The two coats that took so long have plenty of dust settled on/in them. I just ignore it. Maybe later I'll go back and sand it all and add another coat. Looks good from a few feet away. I dunno.

    It's called a non-skid surface.

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  5. 4 hours ago, Scott Pettigrew said:

    For me, wether my Vardo is 30 or 35 lbs is inconsequential considering my current fitness level.  Maybe when I'm older I'll think otherwise. ?

    I agree, and you can do that built to Jeff's specs and using 1/2" Balstic Birch

  6. The way we use plywood to make frames is not at all what plywood was invented for.  I doubt there is any real testing done on it for how we use it. This being said, we know it can work well.  I would think when it comes to resisting the forces to collapse a frame, the Baltic Birch is stronger than Okoume for any given thickness, it is also heavier.  But if I wanted to torture plywood into the shape of a boat, nothing comes close to BS 1088 Okoume plywood. This is a lot like the strip canoes people build, always looking for a way to make them lighter. 


    At what point is lighter not better than the strength sacrificed?

  7. Following up to a reply from long ago regarding PFDs.  Kayak PFDs, because of the high cut back, are also great for small sailboats, as one leans back against a combing in them as well. If you only want to have to own one, the kayak version seems best over all.

  8. I used solid bronze, drilled the holes myself.  I bedded it in BoatLife LifeCaulk as I wanted to be able to remove it easily, which I have done once.  The fasteners have plenty of purchase to hold it in place. UHMW plastic would work well. So would a thin strip of hardwood, it can be sacrificial. Some just do nothing and add a strip of hardwood when the wear dictates this is a good idea. I used brass on my kayaks, I see no reason not to use this on your 2 Paw. If you can build it, you can repair or modify it.

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  9. I guess I was much more fortunate than you.  I hauled Uinen from RI to FL behind my Toyota Tacoma (small footprint, 4 cylinder). Uinen was loaded with teak and Okoume ply, several hundred pounds, 2 Kudzu kayaks on my lumber rack and the bed full of misc stuff. I even had  to drive through NYC, which scared the hell out of me, but made it without incident. Good luck with the rest of the trip.







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