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Posts posted by Hirilonde

  1. 2 hours ago, Don Silsbe said:

      I wonder if the marine life varies from region to region enough to require this variation.

    It can make a huge difference.  I kept my boat in Stonnington Harbor CT for several years where I barely needed to wipe the waterline for the 6 months.  I moved to Wickford Harbor RI and with the same paint I had barnacles showing in less than a month.

  2. If weeks is the max time it is left in the water I don't think the effectiveness of the anti-fouling is a serious issue.  You can always beach the boat and give the bottom a going over with a kitchen scrubby pad every 2 or 3 weeks. You do need something besides the LPU. I always used an ablative on my displacement boat, but it stayed in for 6 months. I think in your case I would look for a hard paint that meets your environmental laws.

  3. The only real down side to any non-skid surface is keeping it clean.  I made floor boards for my Lapwing.  They are very thin (5/16" thick on 1/2" sleepers). They are only in the aft part of the cockpit.  The forward part twists too much. Floor boards are good for keeping you feet out of the small puddle that forms magically from completely unknown water sources.

  4. My hull is the 'old' System 3 WR LPU. It isn't nearly as glossy as solvent based LPUs, but for a classic look boat I like it better than high gloss.  It has stood up well.  Doing large surfaces with the stuff is  tricky.  It sets up really fast and is hard to keep a wet edge, even with 2 people (1 rolling and 1 tipping). But because you can do one plank at a time it really isn't an issue on the Lapwing. I used a small diameter roller and tipped with a 2" brush. If you think there will be an issue going directly to the next plank, switch to the other side and come back when it is dry to the touch. Check your instructions, but the old stuff had a 24 hour hot recoat time, even though it was dry to the touch in very little time.


    At first I did the interior with it as well.  I left my boat open at a marina for a couple years.  The small puddles that didn't drain through the bailer and sat for a while caused pealing in the bilge. I switched to 1 part poly for the interior.


    Looking good!

  5. A 360° white light on a sailboat is an anchor light only.  To have one lit while steaming would be a deception and dangerous.  A stern light is to be used at all times after dark, along with the red and green.  A steaming light is for a sailboat under power at night. It is only fairly recently that the Coast Guard has approved masthead tri color lights as running lights under sail. It used to be that some offshore boats would have both the hull/cabin mounted and masthead running lights.  The masthead lights only being used off shore, where the CG had no jurisdiction as they were safer in big waves. 


    I think I would be confused if I saw the masthead tricolor and a steaming light in the dark.  I'd probably figure it out, but the old configuration is burnt into my head.

  6. 3 hours ago, Captain Tim said:

    An all around LED white could be used while anchored or steaming.


    A steaming light is white, but should only shine for a radius of 225° centered forward. A 360° white light located any where can be used for an anchor light. I would hang one from my boom over the cockpit when anchoring in my Renegade. An anchor light is to keep people from hitting you at night, and something down low can do this better in a crowded harbor, and works well in more isolated areas as well.

  7. I don't like to pre-coat, but as Joe has pointed out, there are a couple situations in a boat that cry out for it.  Under the seat tops is one IMO.


    I am a huge fan of hot coating.  So much so that I will set an alarm for the middle of the night if I must to work a good hot coat schedule. Reducing sanding this significantly, is worth that much to me.

  8. 13 hours ago, BradW said:

    In addition, if you are putting on bottom paint and will be cruising the boat, likely it'll be sitting around with a bit more payload aboard than normal, so I'd consider running the bottom paint an extra inch or so higher than DWL so it doesn't develop a line of grunge on the topside paint while sitting.  My big keelboat had that stain line just at the boot stripe, so I had it raised up when the yard repainted it.

    Great advice!  Way too many boats at moorings or slips have slime lines at the water line because they didn't do this.  Even if not loaded, the growth extends above the actual water line due to waves keeping it wet.  It does not look ugly to see a little bottom paint. A slime line is always ugly.

  9. Scarfing seems to intimidate many who have not tried it yet. Most who try, find it easier than they thought, though using a hand plane and/or belt sander does require a bit of familiarity. I found 4 sheets at a time to be the best for me.  I line them up staggered by 8 times the thickness.  That is, each sheet is set back from the one under it by this 8x  the thickness measurement. (1/4", better known as 6 mm sheets are set back 2" or 48 mm) I built a temporary 16' bench for scarfing, gluing and cutting out these large pieces.

  10. There must be at least a half dozen variations on rigging the centerboard on B&B boats.


    It looks like you have a closed trunk and just an uphaul for the centerboard.  If this is so, then you likely have a weighted board as well.  If this is so, then a repair underway would be near impossible, but also unnecessary. Sail to the ramp, pull your boat keeping in mind you will have to lift the board manually as you load it.  Go home and fix it.


    There should be a cap on either side of the trunk, probably round, near the bottom and forward.  If you remove these caps you will expose the pin the board pivots on.  Tap the pin out from one side to the other and the board is free to drop out the bottom. It sounds, and actually is simple, but it sure can be a fiddley thing to do. Make sure to seal the cap, bed it, when you replace it.

  11. On 12/24/2021 at 12:22 PM, PadrePoint said:

    I’ve appreciated the No-Ads approach of being a supporting member… at $12/year ($1/month)


    I agree, it is a small price to pay to help support the financial burden of this forum and no ads is a great motivator. Frank should not have to bear the burden of the money to run this forum, and I doubt sincerely he is getting rich off this place. This forum is like my subscription to the Washington Post, it is part of my daily reading.

    • Like 2
  12. I have yet to hear of a single epoxy that is completely blush free. This means that what ever brand you choose, it would be wise to wash the epoxy surface before putting anything on top of it.  Even better, before you sand and again after. So IMO it doesn't matter at all how much it blushes, I will clean it thoroughly any how.

  13. People come to this forum because of the wealth of knowledge so many members have.  Speculation lowers the standard and sometimes misleads.  When in doubt, ask questions or do more homework. With all due respect, and I mean it too, I will call people out who present unfounded technical opinions.

  14. On 12/13/2021 at 8:36 PM, Kennneee said:

    .  I have also read that the 5:1 mix is more likely to cause a allergic reaction.  I can’t verify this but it is worth investigating.

    It really is best not to type something if you don't know. A skeptic investigates when in doubt.

    On 12/15/2021 at 2:58 PM, Salty Cracker said:

    More prone to amine blush too... right? I don't remember where I read/heard that.

    Same comment as above.  And even is so, wipe it off with water.

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