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Everything posted by Hirilonde

  1. That is a big difference. And even as a tender, the space lost is tolerable.
  2. Starboard, have you tried swamping since the tanks were added? Does the aft section fair better even without tanks?
  3. I used a 9 as a dinghy and never regretted it. Sometimes small is better, especially when you have to jockey it about to store it.
  4. You will note Mark, that the guy from North Carolina (warm) likes to slow down the solvent flash off to let it level, and the guy from Washington (cold) likes to add something to speed up the flash off and drying. Both are sound practices for the conditions and used for many years.
  5. That trim piece/batten is a thin version of the rub rail and it is glued onto and flush with the bottom edge of the shear plank. Both the rub rail and this trim piece (I know of no name for it) are Teak. The two, frame the plank and add some pzazz the the look of the hull IMO. Tom Lathrop, who conceived of the Lapwing did this and also painted the shear strake green. I have been debating the idea of painting my shear strake a dark blue green myself since I built the boat. But there is just something about white and varnish that is complete as is. I glued the trim piece and the rub rail on after the planking was sanded and ready for paint. I varnished both first, allowing a little varnish to be feathered onto the hull. Then I masked the Teak and primed and painted the boat. It is a tedious detail to make and maintain, but I like it.
  6. The term "dead wood" comes from conventional plank on frame building. It is the part of the keel through which the ballast keel is bolted to the floors.
  7. First of these I have seen. We need more pictures.
  8. The only time I thin varnish is when I do the first coat, and it is on bare wood. This is to get the first coat to penetrate the wood a little better. And then I only thin 10-15%. Over epoxy I do not thin at all. And when I do thin I use pure gum turpentine. Even in Florida I wait over night to sand a coat. I find on vertical surfaces I have to work the varnish to a complete but thin coat and then slowly feather out the finish. There is a knack to this that I can't really describe. And even then, I always find a drool or two. On a side note: a varnish brush can be stored in turpentine for many months. The solids won't come out of solution like they do when the brush is left in mineral spirits.
  9. Newbie status? edit: Aha. 15 years and over 3,000 posts and I'm a newbie.
  10. I used 8:1 for the staves of my birdsmouth masts and the 5 pieces that make up each rub rail, for many stringers on SoF kayaks and umpteen other applications and no issues.
  11. This is the latest and best information from a reliable source. So until something else is proven better.......................... On a side note, some citrus hand cleaners have skin softeners in them. If anyone needs that it is people who handle the stuff we do.
  12. Acetone is probably best, but alcohol works too.
  13. If it is dry, and the mating surfaces are scuffed and cleaned, epoxy will glue it just fine. Teak and White Oak have bad names because they require a little attention and some don't give it. So we all get to listen about their failures without knowing the whole story. Just like everything, it is in the prep.
  14. The keels on both my Spindrift and Lapwing have bronze solid half round chafe strip the entire length. It is amazing how little damage is done to a boat with just this precaution. SS hallow half round works well too. Then it almost doesn't matter what you use so long as it hold fasteners well. Poplar does.
  15. Varnish and Urethanes are 2 entirely different animals. One is an oil based product, the other is a plastic. There is no such thing as a urethane varnish. Like so many words in the English language the word varnish has been misused to mean any clear coating. As oil based paints have been proven to work well for these boats I would suggest real varnish. It will however add an amber translucent color.
  16. it is the installation contractors fault. He should have used a level. I have installed seats and shelves in tile tubs/showers and I always set them slightly off level to drain.
  17. Interesting question, I never even thought about it. My Lapwing main sprit weighs 4.3# with blocks and chafe gear. It is probably a tad shorter than a CS17. I interpret this to mean mine is still a bit lighter when corrected for length. Mine is DF.
  18. Mark, check the plans. The Lapwing called for a 1 1/2"x1 1/2" tapered to round at both ends. Not sure that the octagon will mean much less meat in the middle, but that is where it is needed most.
  19. What kind of wood wouldn't make that bend without steam?
  20. Charly is a member here, and we were both members of the Classic Plastic forum. If he is interested I would recommend him. He may be off cruising his Rhodes Meridian.
  21. It looks like the plywood was just butted. What David and Peter said.
  22. I really like the detail of the sides of the raised deck/cabin on Southern Express. It makes the boat look leaner. Was that before they raised the cabin top? Anyway, I think it is the white above the blue that just makes all the difference. Commissioning a boat, if you can find a trustworthy builder who doesn't have to make a living building boats. I decided that if I were ever to build a Lapwing for someone I would have to get at least $35,000 (complete on trailer) And even then I wouldn't get rich. There are people how ever who enjoy it so much that they would build for a modest fee. Good luck with finding a solution. They are great boats.
  23. AYC is beautiful wood. It shape well also. It is almost as nice for oars and spars as Sitka. My Lapwing oars are AYC. Flipping a Lapwing, especially at this point is so easy. No reason not to do so and put in the inwales. The Lapwing is one boat where the hull is a lot of the work. You are further along than it seems.
  24. I tacked my cloth to the keel very 6" or so with thumb tacks.
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