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Hirilonde

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Posts posted by Hirilonde

  1. 3 hours ago, Kennneee said:

     So far I am really please with her performance.  She ghosts along in light air and stands up to her canvas better than I would have expected when the wind pipes up.  She is no slouch speed wise.  The helm is nicely balanced and easy to steer with very little effort.  As expected her lines seem to be a magnet for compliments.  I managed to build a paddle a few days before I headed south for close quarters maneuvering but didn’t have time to build oars.  I have been using my EPropulsion electric outboard that I borrowed from Rosebud, my Spindrift dinghy.  I had hoped to get by with a simple transom mount but the shaft is a bit short for this application.  I suppose I will hold my nose and get a commercial mount to bolt on her stern.  Either that or get busy building oars and skip the motor all together. 

     

    Your assessment of performance is right on. Yeah, the Lapwing makes meeting people at the ramp really easy.

     

    I have yet to find any need for an outboard of any kind.  I am patient in very light wind, and as you have noticed, a Lapwing can be moved in them.  It all boils down to how often do you expect to be becalmed?  And can you row that far (what ever that far is for you), do you want to have to row that far?

     

    There is a freedom not having power on board.

    • Like 1
  2. Back before B&B offered UHMW plastic connecting hardware for nesting boats a forum member Garry designed SS hardware for the purpose.  I made them for my Spindrift. Almost 20 years later they still work.
     

    Nice simple hinge, and the rest of the boat looks great too.

  3. The side deck reinforces the gunwals and provides a place to sit in a good wind.  Dunno if reinforcement is necessary. It is also where many of use lead our main halyard, shotter and downhaul. On my Lapwing, the foredeck and a bulkhead create a dry storage place and flotation. I am all for customizing my boats, but there are many things that I say would be a mistake.  I paid for an expert's design, and I won't try to fix it.

    • Like 3
  4. The removable seat is for facing aft.  If I wanted to face forward I would use the aft seat/flotation.  It is slightly aft of perfect, but not so much that you would notice. It is located fore/aft exactly where I sit solo sailing, just aft of the middle thwart/mast partner.  I wanted it to work with the masts still in place. And it works with the sails still raised, though for long distance I would take them down. Lubberly would be using an outboard.

  5. I am still pleased with the removable seat, the location and design of the rowlocks and the oars in general.  I think I would make them 9' instead of the 10' Pete Culler's formula resulted in.  I am still happy with the carbon fiber connection ferrules from Duckworks.  I also have a canoe paddle mounted to the side of the centerboard trunk for use near the dock.  It is quick and easy to access and use. That, and the fact that it is wooden and gave me another project to do after the boat was done. I find making paddles and oars very satisfying. 

  6. 2 hours ago, Don Silsbe said:

    I store my tiller extension disconnected.  It will last a whole lot longer that way.

    I use my tiller extension on my Spindrift and Lapwing every time I go sailing, regardless of wind speed. The only time I remove them is to varnish.

  7. 1 hour ago, Don Silsbe said:

     But don‘t most of us use mainly sheet metal screws on our boats?  Come on.  Fess up.

    When I build a traditional plank on frame boat I use bronze wood screws with a frearson drive. I use my Fuller combination counter sink, clearance and pilot tapered bits adjusted to depth.

  8. Epoxy is very brittle and hard compared to wood, and it has no longitudinal strength like wood.  If the stringers didn't break bending them, they would likely bend less than fair at these repairs.  Either cut out the holes and scarf the pieces to get the length, or buy new wood is what I would do.

     

    • Like 1
  9. 49 minutes ago, Reacher said:

    Also, the pilot hole should be a little shorter than the screw so that the threads at the tip bite into wood. I can’t remember the additional holding strength the tip provides, but it is significant and worth doing.

    Or buy a tapered bit designed just for screws.

     

  10. A pilot hole should be the diameter of the shank of the screw, not including the threads. In really hard woods, maybe even a tad larger.  It not only makes puting in the screw easier, it reduces the compression the screw applies to the wood around it.  This reduces the chances of a split occuring and allows the threads to cut into the wood better. It also reduces fastener fatigue.  This is when screws damage the wood to the point they hold far less than they should/could.

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