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Everything posted by Hirilonde

  1. Hmm, that Dri-Dek looks like a great solution. Like floor boards, just lift them out to clean the boat.
  2. The only real down side to any non-skid surface is keeping it clean. I made floor boards for my Lapwing. They are very thin (5/16" thick on 1/2" sleepers). They are only in the aft part of the cockpit. The forward part twists too much. Floor boards are good for keeping you feet out of the small puddle that forms magically from completely unknown water sources.
  3. My hull is the 'old' System 3 WR LPU. It isn't nearly as glossy as solvent based LPUs, but for a classic look boat I like it better than high gloss. It has stood up well. Doing large surfaces with the stuff is tricky. It sets up really fast and is hard to keep a wet edge, even with 2 people (1 rolling and 1 tipping). But because you can do one plank at a time it really isn't an issue on the Lapwing. I used a small diameter roller and tipped with a 2" brush. If you think there will be an issue going directly to the next plank, switch to the other side and come back when it is dry to the touch. Check your instructions, but the old stuff had a 24 hour hot recoat time, even though it was dry to the touch in very little time. At first I did the interior with it as well. I left my boat open at a marina for a couple years. The small puddles that didn't drain through the bailer and sat for a while caused pealing in the bilge. I switched to 1 part poly for the interior. Looking good!
  4. Piano hinges give you the maximum support for the circumstances. A lot of small screws with proper pilot holes will provide great purchase and little fastener fatigue. I used brass hinges with bronze screws.
  5. When I had my residential contracting business I always told my carpenters there is no such thing as pefection, but I want it to look like there is. I hope your situation is hideable.
  6. A 360° white light on a sailboat is an anchor light only. To have one lit while steaming would be a deception and dangerous. A stern light is to be used at all times after dark, along with the red and green. A steaming light is for a sailboat under power at night. It is only fairly recently that the Coast Guard has approved masthead tri color lights as running lights under sail. It used to be that some offshore boats would have both the hull/cabin mounted and masthead running lights. The masthead lights only being used off shore, where the CG had no jurisdiction as they were safer in big waves. I think I would be confused if I saw the masthead tricolor and a steaming light in the dark. I'd probably figure it out, but the old configuration is burnt into my head.
  7. A steaming light is white, but should only shine for a radius of 225° centered forward. A 360° white light located any where can be used for an anchor light. I would hang one from my boom over the cockpit when anchoring in my Renegade. An anchor light is to keep people from hitting you at night, and something down low can do this better in a crowded harbor, and works well in more isolated areas as well.
  8. I don't like to pre-coat, but as Joe has pointed out, there are a couple situations in a boat that cry out for it. Under the seat tops is one IMO. I am a huge fan of hot coating. So much so that I will set an alarm for the middle of the night if I must to work a good hot coat schedule. Reducing sanding this significantly, is worth that much to me.
  9. Great advice! Way too many boats at moorings or slips have slime lines at the water line because they didn't do this. Even if not loaded, the growth extends above the actual water line due to waves keeping it wet. It does not look ugly to see a little bottom paint. A slime line is always ugly.
  10. https://www.eia.gov/energyexplained/electricity/how-electricity-is-generated.php
  11. Scarfing seems to intimidate many who have not tried it yet. Most who try, find it easier than they thought, though using a hand plane and/or belt sander does require a bit of familiarity. I found 4 sheets at a time to be the best for me. I line them up staggered by 8 times the thickness. That is, each sheet is set back from the one under it by this 8x the thickness measurement. (1/4", better known as 6 mm sheets are set back 2" or 48 mm) I built a temporary 16' bench for scarfing, gluing and cutting out these large pieces.
  12. There must be at least a half dozen variations on rigging the centerboard on B&B boats. It looks like you have a closed trunk and just an uphaul for the centerboard. If this is so, then you likely have a weighted board as well. If this is so, then a repair underway would be near impossible, but also unnecessary. Sail to the ramp, pull your boat keeping in mind you will have to lift the board manually as you load it. Go home and fix it. There should be a cap on either side of the trunk, probably round, near the bottom and forward. If you remove these caps you will expose the pin the board pivots on. Tap the pin out from one side to the other and the board is free to drop out the bottom. It sounds, and actually is simple, but it sure can be a fiddley thing to do. Make sure to seal the cap, bed it, when you replace it.
  13. I agree, it is a small price to pay to help support the financial burden of this forum and no ads is a great motivator. Frank should not have to bear the burden of the money to run this forum, and I doubt sincerely he is getting rich off this place. This forum is like my subscription to the Washington Post, it is part of my daily reading.
  14. Ads target you, not the forum thread. We may all be seeing different ads, or not.
  15. I have yet to hear of a single epoxy that is completely blush free. This means that what ever brand you choose, it would be wise to wash the epoxy surface before putting anything on top of it. Even better, before you sand and again after. So IMO it doesn't matter at all how much it blushes, I will clean it thoroughly any how.
  16. People come to this forum because of the wealth of knowledge so many members have. Speculation lowers the standard and sometimes misleads. When in doubt, ask questions or do more homework. With all due respect, and I mean it too, I will call people out who present unfounded technical opinions.
  17. Richard Kohler left South Africa earlier today to paddle to Brazil. This is his Facebook page if anyone wants to follow him. https://www.facebook.com/RichardKohlerAdventures/posts/4650154221718749?notif_id=1639752494714733&notif_t=page_followed_contents_awareness&ref=notif
  18. It really is best not to type something if you don't know. A skeptic investigates when in doubt. Same comment as above. And even is so, wipe it off with water.
  19. I found that trailers are built for power boats. I bought one designed for a 14 foot boat. It was designed to have a really heavy hunk of iron on the transom of a 14 foot boat. This turned out to be a perfect balance for a 16 foot boat with no iron on the transom. The only thing I regret is not getting a trailer with the wheels far enough apart for the boat to ride low between them. Being able to reach into the boat on the trailer while standing on the ground is a huge benefit, especially for cleaning up.
  20. I have absolutely no issues with any of the mixes. West System is 5:1 and I am mixing half pump by eye batches all the time with no cure problems. If I were ordering a kit I would buy B&B because of price. I keep my shop stocked with West because I just use it for small projects these days.
  21. My concern with the adapted inflattable PFD would be trying to sail after righting with that thing flopping abound up there.
  22. It is a chemical reaction. Heat is a catalyst for that reaction, and the actual curing generates heat. When I built my Lapwing in a tent in the winter I heated the resin all the time. I have done jobs in the summer where I left the resin jug in a bath of ice water so that when I mixed it I had a little extra time. Epoxy, once mixed, will kick off rather quickly if left in the mixing pot, it will cure more slowly once spread out. Another way to regulate cure time is by choosing fast or slow hardener.
  23. An anchor light does not even have to be on top of the mast at all. Some say it is better to have one closer to the water as it will be seen by boats close by better than if it were up high. I used to hang a miners lamp from my boom over the cockpit on my Renegade.
  24. Heating epoxy may thin it a bit, but it also speeds up the cure. This might be a good thing, or not.
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