Hirilonde
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Posts posted by Hirilonde
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The West 12 oz., is that weight or volume?
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I left the corners at the mating bulkheads round. As a tender, my Spindrift was going to be banged around a bit, and sharp corners damage easily. And sharp corners damage me easily
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On 1/22/2024 at 8:08 PM, Bryan Rolfe said:
That said, if I was using this as a show boat, or wanted another fun wood working project, I'd probably enjoy making a wooden mast.
I built birdsmouth masts for my Lapwing. They certainly add to the show boat effect, and it was very satisfying to complete them, but I would never use the word fun. Making the tapered staves and gluing all 8 of them together at the same time can only be described as tedious. Making them round was extremely satisfying.
I find the word "fun" does not apply here.
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57 minutes ago, Aphers said:
That's good progress.
Do you plan to sail your Spindrift? I have been using my 11N as my tender full time for over two years and sailing around anchorages is my favourite hobby now.
My 9N was built as a tender for that very reason. Once I was comfortable with my anchor set I would mix a cocktail and take a tour of the harbor and check out the pretty boats, especially the wooden ones.
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Yes to blind screws/fold and 4" spacing. The rowlock socket is 14" aft of the meeting bulkhead. I believe the plans specify location.
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I used polyester over foam gunwale guard. https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/gunwale-guard-polyester-foam-3-4-round--by-ft--14730.html
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I bedded each screw in BoatLife LifeCaulk when installing my gunwale guard. My Spindrift is now 18 years old and has lived 3 seasons outdoors in the water at a dinghy dock and many cruises. I see no sign of damage at all.
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I placed them about a foot inboard of hitting the rowlocks while rowing. They are just to keep from losing the oars if you have to let go, or losing the rowlocks if you are using round ones. I use round ones on my Spindrift. I use Davis rowlocks, which are open on my Lapwing. I have them tethered through the socket, long enough to stow them under the deck while still attached. Rowlocks sink, and easy to lose if not attached to something.
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I am considering adding a tabernacle to my Lapwing. Does B&B sell the plans?
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@Don Silsbe Can't you install the first bulkhead from the cockpit?
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Just in case anyone needs another opinion on silicone; it is pure EVIL!
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I made my own simple clamps for the plank laps and attaching the sheer plank trim. They are simple rectangular U shapes cut from scraps of 3/4 ply. The inside opening of the U was about an inch wide by 6 inches long. You fit it over the lap or trim and lap, then force angle shims to tighten the piece together.
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I applied an ablative bottom paint over scuffed up solvent based LPU and left my Spindrift in the water at a dighy dock for 2 seasons. Nothing but growth which came off with a sponge.
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What is wrong with the brushes?
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23 hours ago, gray duck said:
Yes. You DO NOT want this boat to be heavy. All of us were first time builders and early boats tend to be overbuilt and overweight.
Yup, I didn't even glass the bottom. Easily carrying a dinghy is a big deal to me, and sailing or rowing fast is too.
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I used a jig saw and on parts with long curves and/or straigh lines I used a circular saw. If you are finishing bright, then fit is really critical and I would cut a tad large and use a block plane to tweak the fit. When using a jig saw use good blades and sharp, even new. I would rather waste a blade then get tear out.
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It always seems that those who are doing scarfing for the first time, or only do it once in a while say it is a pain and/or tedious. But once you have a jig, it is down right easy and fast. The rub rails on my Lapwing are 5 pieces each side. This meant I got to use up some small pieces of Teak.
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My 9N's gunwale is completely covered in gunwale guard. I used SS oval head screws with finish washers every 4". 18 years and counting.
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Redwood is really soft and gunwales get banged. I would not use it.
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The plans call for the drain tube for the main mast step to go through the hull. I have mine coming aft through the forward bulkhead and thus draining into the bilge. Either way, it is important to not have standing water in a hiden place.
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As I recall, from almost 20 years ago, the nesting bulkhead to side corners receive 3 layers of tape, unlike all other corner taping. I just made sure to get 3 layers over the bushings at the same time. I had an issue with the outwale trying to release from sides at the nesting bulkhead in one spot. After regluing it, I added a small patch of glass over the end ot the outwale onto the nesting bulkhead. So far so good.
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I would think that foam would trap water between itself and your frames, not quantities, but wet, and stay that way for a while if not longer.
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On 7/30/2023 at 7:19 PM, andy00 said:
Scott:
I haven't seen any sign of chafing on mine. As you note, they fit snugly in the frames. With no movement there is no chafing. Have fun!
Yeah, this. I would make sure you have sanded the inside of the frames where the bags go at least, if not all of them.
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Seaclipper 16 Build
in Main Forum
Posted
One can't over state the importance of a dry fit. I will even try a dry clamping if I have any doubt about the actual procedure to see if it works before I slobber everything with epoxy and find out my idea doesn't go together well.