Hirilonde
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Posts posted by Hirilonde
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I used wrap and test fit. I don't trust calculations for this. It is easier to add material than sand it away.
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We just moved into our new place in Florida. We have a 2 car gagage that will never see a car. It's a shop and indoor parking for my Lapwing.
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I will be having my second grandchild in February. Time for their first boat.
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I use a paddle for getting away from the dock and such. I use oars for auxilliary. All 3 store in the boat, handy, but out of the way. Oh, and this is for a 15' 8" Lapwing. I am only 67, so I will be waiting to get an electric some time in the future.
I used a complicated formula for deciding on oar length. I find my oars are too long. Had I used 1.5 or 1.6 times beam I think the length would have been just right.
I wonder what the formula would be for the 3rd deck oars of a trireme?
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Be careful using just straps and weights. Glue ups with epoxy have a tendency to drift before the cure. It is why I used screws. Check back often during the cure to see if drift has occured.
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What Chick said and another comment: Tie the tarp down to the tralier such that the sides of the tarp do not hug the hull. Trapping moisture up against the hull can cause issues as well, especially if you used 2 part LPU.
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Most people use hallow because it is cheaper and still works fine. I used solid half round bronze and it is almost indestructable when secured to the keel. It is a little heavy, but looks cool too. Solid will spread out the force of a bang or bump a little better than hallow, but one would hope you don't do that often.
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I used BoatLife Life Caulk, but yes, bed the screw holes if not the whole chafe strip.
edit: Cured varnish and still flexible and water tight is perfect.
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Where are you going in a row boat that you need a GPS?
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I don't know anything about recycled acetone, but the sheen might also be because there was so much stuff disolved into the acetone that the final wipe did not remove it all. If really oily or dirty, 2 cleanings might be called for.
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On 8/12/2020 at 4:40 AM, Steve W said:
Its fault has been said that it doesn't glue well.
People say the same thing about Teak. I have had no issue with either. Clean, clean, clean the mating surfaces. Use a solvent. Acetone works best, alcohol works well.
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Just thought some here might find this interesting:
https://www.capetownetc.com/cape-town/milnerton-man-to-kayak-from-cape-town-to-brazil/?fbclid=IwAR2RkjAGzE4gE8Gg0Djk3dJRI9D8t8wENnCJQwsNwzqkR8P_4iS6NfyO2Dg -
It isn't just that the glass will ad little abrasion resistance. The keel is a semi-sacrificial component. As such, being semi-easy to replace is a plus. I figure I can chisel mine off in pieces and grind off the screws and replace it. Hoping I don't have to.
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What Chick said and I would add: either don't epoxy till installed, or at least scuff the mating surface well if you did epoxy it first. I epoxied after. I was afraid the keel would become brittle with epoxy and not bend into place well. I do not know this to be an issue for fact.
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8 hours ago, Brendan said:
How many coats do you imagine I need for the fabric? I am thinking two maybe three but I don't want to over or underdo it. Logic says "until it floats" but I want to make sure I want to get enough on there before it fully cures so that it burns in nicely.
Painting the fabric is a whole different process than your combing. I always used paint on the cloth. But as varnish is an oil based product, and similar viscosity to oil based paint, it probably takes the same 2 or 3 coats to seal the hull. I have always used 3 coats.
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I screwed through the hull from the inside to attach the keel. It is bedded from end to end in epoxy, with enough screws to snug it up along the entire length. I did a complete dry fit before adding epoxy. The screws were stainless, sunk to just below flush, and filled with epoxy and later the 3 coats of neat, which puddles up a tad in the center of bilge over the screws.
I don't know the Jessy, so no good advice on the stringers.
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13 hours ago, Blancadog said:
To be clear, "Rustoleum" is nothing more than the oil-based "Rustoleum Protective Enamel" I see at my local hardware store, correct?
There are 6 oil based enamels made by Rustoleum. But most hardware stores carry the "Protective Enamel", it is the cheapest, and it worked well for me.
https://www.google.com/search?q=rustoleum+oil+based+paint&sxsrf=ALeKk00LtosfwmvtcvTQ-YU9H7ayJh6R4g:1595959903132&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwji9ef4xfDqAhXvnuAKHQmODPgQsxh6BAgQECw&biw=1366&bih=663 -
Real varnish, like what you used never gets nearly as hard as polyurethane. That being said, it should not be sticky or gooey either. It takes several days to cure well. If you put the coats on too thick, or too quickly, it can take longer. I can do a coat one day, sand and do a 2nd coat the next day and so on. Or, I can do 2 coats in one day, the second one is a hot recoat, meaning it is done after the first dries, but does not cure yet. If I do this, I take the next day off completely as it is need for cure. Many people put varnish on too thick, it should be well feathered out with slow strokes to avoid the small bubbles.
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I haven't built a kayak in years, so I have no experience with the latest materials that Jeff sells. The old adage is that oil based paints stick to and penetrate almost everything. Latex does not. Oil based porch and deck enamel is virtually the same paint as rustoleum. If you can get it, and it seems many in the south have trouble, it can be mixed into any color using tints and gives you the choices Rustoleum does not. I have found no difference in how both Porch and Deck oil enamel and Rustoleum cover, penetrate, etc.. One of my kayaks uses both paints.
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It bothers me that I can't find the thread with another method of removable lights that inspired me. It was a unit that attached to the transom using pintles on the bracket that slipped into the gudgeons on the boat. As I have no aft deck, I could simple hook over the transom. So that is what I did.
My original lights lasted 5 years. Just a month before trailering from RI to FL one of them died. I replaced it and now could drive safely through NY and DC and on to FL. When I got to VA I noticed that the new light had been torn off. No idea how. But apparently I may have done that leg with just the left light. Time for a new set up. The rags being used as gaskets/chafe gear will be replaced by leather glued in place to the bracket when I finally get to my new house and my stuff shows up.
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2 hours ago, Joe Anderson said:
However I can remember sailing off Martha's Vineyard in an area with strong currents and heavy ferry traffic and the wind died out. I think a motor would have been a big help then. I felt pretty helpless trying to time my drift and plot the ferry courses while pulling at the oars.
I take it you figured things out. Did you have a copy of Eldritch, particularly the current charts? I know the area well, having cruised it several times in my Renegade. The Elizabeth Islands and Fisher's Island sound have some pretty significant tidal currents. Timing is essential. How did you escape?
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20 hours ago, Wommasehn said:
and I also see it as a safety-feature as it should get me out of danger if I can't make that by wind power. I've had such situations. That is one reason why I would'nt like to get it out of some compartment before using it, the other reason is the weight and the 3rd the difficulty of finding such a compartment on board of Muckla.
The only time I can see an auxiliary being a safety item is over night at anchor. If the wind is so strong that sailing isn't an option an auxiliary isn't strong enough to do anything worth while. As my Lapwing is a daysailer, it is a convenience item. And as a Lapwing is way too pretty, leaving an outboard mounted is a travesty.
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As to viable, it must fit in a compartment that already exists on my Lapwing. This may end up being the forward compartment. Soon to be settled in Florida, then I will have a few more projects that come first. I am in no hurry, I can still row.
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On 7/17/2020 at 10:33 AM, Joe Anderson said:
I have not had a motor hanging on the transom all these years and I don't think I could get used to it, for aesthetic reasons and because of fowling the mizzen sheet. I wonder if it would be practical to stow the motor in a locker and only mount on the transom when needed. The Spirit Plus motor is 11kg/24lbs and the battery is 8.8kg/20lbs. In some ways I like the idea of the battery mounted directly to the motor because it avoids the complications of running wiring.
I am waiting for this to be a viable solution, it is getting closer. I am even considering a side mount bracket as the only time I would use it is in no wind.
Great thread, following it with interest.
Spindrift 10, #1329 -- "Seabiscuit" . .
in B & B Yachts Forum
Posted
I cut the bow end of the gunwales square to the center line just shy of the hull, then rounded. Made it really blunt. I did no tack welds. I went right to filet and heated the wires to pull them from the epoxy. Saves a step.
Getting there.