Hirilonde
-
Posts
3,500 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
240
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by Hirilonde
-
-
6 hours ago, Martin Jaffe said:
Some of the tricky fitting of the longitudinal battens around Frame 12 and the stem.
If you mean the piece on the inside of the frame it is called ceiling.
Boat looks great.
-
If by exterior stain blocking primer you mean oil based primer, then I don't get it. That primer and Rustoleum aren't that different.
-
16 hours ago, Thrillsbe said:
My point is that all BS1088 isn’t necessarily high quality.
Yes, all BS 1088 is superb quality. Not all wood stamped BS 1088 really is. BS 1088 is a standard, either it is met, or it isn't. Once Lloyds stopped the expensive process of certifying all manufacturers with constant inspection we no longer had assurance that what we bought was really up to spec. When in doubt, go with a known name brand, like Joubert or Brunzyle. If you have reliable sources, you can get other manufacturers. it's a lot like finding the truth these days. You have to become a skeptic and thorough investigator.
-
-
3 hours ago, Steve W said:
"White Oak has a reputation of “letting go” of epoxy"
I feel like this is not supported by any meaningful data. I've used quite a bit of white oak, epoxied to stuff over the years and have never had a failure. It is closed cell, but not particularly oily. I do take precautions and rough it good.
Has anyone ever seen this?
I think the ellusive meaningful data you speak of was collected by the same guy who says you can't epoxy teak and there is no good way to fasten things that will be under water.
Gluing is in the prep. On top of the rough up, clean the mating surfaces well with acetone or alcohol (acetone is better) and get gluing.
-
Why are you sure the local suppliers have poorer quality? If it really is BS 1088 there is no poor.
That being said, Lloyds of London no longer has any real control of the manufacturing or use of the standard BS 1088 and unless you know the origin of the material, you need to inspect it yourself at least. I bought my Lapwing material through a very reputable lumber yard, that was how I determined it would meet standard. They have it manufactured in Greece for them and was wonderful material. I would go look at the local stuff and see if it has a stamp that identifies who made it.
-
You're cruising.
I made u shaped clamps out of plywood and shims to tighten them for the planking laps. Your screw/pad idea seems to work well also.
Snazzy router sled for making the gain rabbits. I did mine by hand with a rabbit plane. This detail is so important. getting each plank lap to go flush for the last inch or so looks so cool later when all are done. I used a block plane for the varying bevel on the plank being lapped. This detail is important to keep the lap thickness consistent.
After each pair of planks make sure to step back and view the boat from all angles. It is easy to get something unfair when you are on top of the work.
String, plumb bob, levels, you can't check details like the stem too often. You seem quite on top of this.
I finished my Lapwing over 5 years ago and this is the next one to document here. Bringing back memories of the build.
-
1
-
-
Lots of unknowns here.......
Is the entire top coat like this?
Is it just the top coat?
Was the entire top coat mixed as one batch?
I had a section of coating on my Lapwing not cure properly. I scraped it off with a pull scraper, cleaned area with acetone and then did another coat.
-
With the rowlock mounted in the middle of the deck you may find you need to make a base that holds it higher. Your oars may now hit the gunwale and/or combing when rowing.
-
17 hours ago, Timothy Conway said:
Thank you. I would like to try varnish but am waiting to try it on a scrap and see what it looks like. Thinking about paint as a.back up, just in case I don't like the way the varnish looks. I should start skinning in a day or two. I am learning lots.
If by varnish you mean real varnish, then it is basically, clear oil based enamel. Well, closely related, and has the same penetration and flexibility as enamel. In the old days they covered canoes and the decks of sailboats with canvas and painted them much the same way we do our kayaks. Fill the weave and coat the surface with waterproofness.
-
Put the blade down on your table saw.
-
Any alkyd oil enamel will work well. They stay a bit soft, (compared to 2 part paints) but in this case that means flexible. Porch and deck oil enamel if you can get it is alkyd and major brands that carry it, can tint it to their chart. Rustoleum is great, but limited color choice.
-
Try the heat gun on the line. I can't imagine it's melting point is that much lower than the cloth.
-
Take your time on the frame. This isn't a fold open boat where the pieces make the shape come out. Everything else from here out is shaped by the frame. Yes, level your saw horses. I even clamped my frame to them so there would be no movement during the build.
Comparing a port side piece, frame, strake, what ever, to the starboard piece is always a good idea. Graham gives you the garboard, but you get to spile the rest, and matching them is important.
-
I found that the FreeB 12, Curlew and Ravenswood, I have built all 3, use the same combing. I think all his boats do.
-
My nesting Spindrift spent 2, 6 month seasons in the water at the dinghy dock and several seasons in and out. I still have yet to notice a single issue with the fastening into the keel of my chafe strip. I think someone has scared everyone here about fastening. Clean the mating surfaces and bed everything well in a good, mildly adhesive bedding compound. Then go sailing.
-
Woot, another Lapwing!
I love Alaskan Yellow Cedar. It shapes and works like a dream. I will suggest however that you glass the centerboard. The plans don't call for it, but they assume a hardwood glue up. Unless you have built the trunk/case, the thiickness doesn't matter yet. Hopefully Graham will notice and comment.
Post a lot. It is good therapy, especially as you are spiling and cutting/fitting planks.
-
I like the shaping of the trailing edge of the skeg. Don't want to have to row too hard
-
I spent much of the last 5 seasons running my Lapwing onto a coarse sand landing. I used solid bronze half round over a Poplar keel. The keel takes no abrasion notable for the 5 years and I have yet to have to touch up the paint. I pre-drilled and dry fit the entire keel strip, removed and and bedded the entire length in BoatLife LifeCaulk. My boat is trailered, but left outside for all 5 seasons. No issues of any kind.
-
1
-
-
Take apart masts go well with nesting boats.
-
4 hours ago, Justin C said:
I’ve had 2 part Awl Grip 545 epoxy paint around here since I ordered it in January and have been hesitant to use it.
I think it is the finest primer for over epoxy there is. It sands easily if within 24 hours or so and gets really hard later. Everything sticks to it, well, lots of stuff.
-
12 hours ago, Peter HK said:
We're talking about 3 inches here so it won't make a lot of difference to the heeling moment.
We have gotten into similar discussions before. Another one is the weight of adding glass sheathing to boats that don't require it. What is a lot? What is too much? I want all of of my boats to be as fast and light weight as possible. For me, anything is a lot. I can plane my Lapwing and Spindrift solo. I wouldn't sacrifice any ability to do that for anything.
Damned because it is all related.
-
1
-
-
It will add healing force to the boat. This will also make the boat slower as the wind picks up. I never find the head room an issue and I always liked going as fast as possible. To each his/her own.
-
1
-
-
2 hours ago, Thrillsbe said:
I had my car in the garage once...
Dang, I should have thought of that, too late.
Spindrift 10, #1329 -- "Seabiscuit" . .
in B & B Yachts Forum
Posted
About as clever as there is. I so like simple clever.