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Posts posted by Hirilonde

  1. On 5/26/2023 at 10:52 PM, Murray said:

    you're thinking of selling your beautiful craft Dave? Time for a change?


    I was trying to sell it as I wasn't using it much.  I was hoping to get enough to fund another build, a small, classic, powerboat.  In limbo for now.

  2. On 5/24/2023 at 9:29 AM, Andy B said:

    There is also the build-quality issue.  I know your boat and this boat are well built because there is a lot of information on them.  But if there wasn't a build log somewhere, you don't know that about a random boat listed hundreds of miles from you.

    Yeah, that is surely part of it. Many of those who could properly evaluate the boat upon inspection are the same ones who would choose to build there own instead. And those who would buy don't, and probably shouldn't, trust their ability to evaluate a possible purchase.

  3. First off, is it real Mahogany? (Swietenia) There are many reddish woods labelled Mahogany that really aren't.  What type of boat is this?  Is the rudder easily removable?  Any pictures?


    Varnish has absolutely no anti-fouling properties, neither does epoxy. So using either as the final coat below the water line is of no value in that regard.


    I would take the rudder off at the dock or mooring, and varnish it. (If that is an option.)  Or you could scribe the waterline with the board up, and paint the submerged part, to 2" about the water, and paint that part with anti-fouling paint, or paint the whole thing.

  4. What surprises me the most are the prices people are getting for well built B&B boats. I followed Wes's build, and he was a perfectionist.  I hope he can get his asking price, the boat is worth it.  But history shows lower prices are the norm.  I have re-evaluated selling my Lapwing for that reason.

    • Like 1
  5. @Murray this is my drawer.............


    It uses a simple U channel on each side, into which a square slide attached to either side of the drawer fits.  I used teak for both piece and just oiled it to slide easily.  The drawer has a small hole in each corner of the bottom to drain rain water when left outside. I added a toggle to hold it closed. In a capsize, it will stay above water, so good for cell phones, electronic car keys etc..





    • Like 3
  6. I knew I would arrange my main sheeting that way before I bought the plans. In any real wind I must have the sheet coming to me so I can either hold it at the ready, or lay it across my leg at the almost instantly ready. Knowing I can dump the main in a split second means I can relax and enjoy myself. This is probably the only detail I disagree with Graham about.

    • Like 1
  7. I am in Morocco, so watching videos is tedious.

    I found the top 2, full length fiberglass battens too stiff for light to moderate winds. I spent a lot of time playing around with Maple, making them of various thicknesses and tapering to thin from a few inches aft of the leading end back to about 1/4 way aft. I am not usually OCD, but when it comes to sail shape, bah, even the rest of the boat, I am a fanatic. I am pleased with the result. The amount of bend can then be adjusted by the tension applied by the Velcro strap holding them in. If you want more info I can post pictures when I get home.

    • Like 2
  8. I added floorboards to my Lapwing in the aft portion of cockpit. Not for support, but to stay above the bit of water that always seems to be present. I never put them in my Spindrift 9. No real need, and added weight I did not want. It is easy to turn the boat over if any water, unlike my Lapwing. BTW, I did not glass either boat. I did not want the  added weight. Light is faster.

    • Like 1
  9. I can plane my Lapwing in just under 15 kts of wind solo. I start out on a broad reach and hike out as I head up a little and trim in accordingly.  I have hiking straps in the aft cockpit.

    I believe the Lapwing has less wetted surface than the CS 15.  It has a rounded hull and it seems it has more rocker.  So I would venture that the Lapwing is faster in light winds.

  10. I used System 3 for my entire Lapwing except for the deck and transom which are varnished.  Because I stored my boat outside on the trailer at the marina where I worked during the summer, it often had a small amount of rain water in the bilge.  This caused some pealing of the paint on the inside of the bottom.  The System 3 has stood up well every where else.  I switched to a 1 part poly for the bilge, and eventually the entire interior.

  11. I have done much the same as Don.  Grab my cooler with ice and drinks, maybe some snacks, and off I go. Everything else was stored and ready to go. Even added a drawer under the center thwart/partner for the small stuff.

    • Like 1
  12. 3 hours ago, Kennneee said:

     So far I am really please with her performance.  She ghosts along in light air and stands up to her canvas better than I would have expected when the wind pipes up.  She is no slouch speed wise.  The helm is nicely balanced and easy to steer with very little effort.  As expected her lines seem to be a magnet for compliments.  I managed to build a paddle a few days before I headed south for close quarters maneuvering but didn’t have time to build oars.  I have been using my EPropulsion electric outboard that I borrowed from Rosebud, my Spindrift dinghy.  I had hoped to get by with a simple transom mount but the shaft is a bit short for this application.  I suppose I will hold my nose and get a commercial mount to bolt on her stern.  Either that or get busy building oars and skip the motor all together. 


    Your assessment of performance is right on. Yeah, the Lapwing makes meeting people at the ramp really easy.


    I have yet to find any need for an outboard of any kind.  I am patient in very light wind, and as you have noticed, a Lapwing can be moved in them.  It all boils down to how often do you expect to be becalmed?  And can you row that far (what ever that far is for you), do you want to have to row that far?


    There is a freedom not having power on board.

    • Like 1
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