Hirilonde
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Posts posted by Hirilonde
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My favorite bedding compound for hardware is polysulfides, (3M 101 and LifeCaulk). That being said, they do no work with plastic, like hatches and ports. Closed cell foam tape works, unless the flange is weak, and it scallops when you tighten the fasteners. Polyurethanes work with plastic, but you will probably break the hatch if you try to remove it later, the stuff is tenatious as an adhesive. Butyl is a great choice.
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Thole pins have been used for ages. Some boats had 2, creating a notch. Some used just one forward of the oar to pull against. And some used a line to attach to the thole pin.
Weight is an issue I take seriously for all my boats. I have never glassed a hull or any part of one 'cept the fillets. But I don't worry about rowlock weight.-
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Two issues that I see.
1.The strength of the transom and its connection to the hull
2. The rocker in the hull will fight against planing, not sure what the result will be when it tries.
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And it looks perty.
Surgery for me in Aug.. Hopefully get to try mine out in October.
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Have you tried sailing across the sound?
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I would definitely want a plastic battery box with cover.
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Basic economics? Yeah, still is. Common sense? Well, the jury is still out on that one.
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It's going to be a while before I can give my swivel collar a proper test. My arthritis is getting worse, and it looks like a hip replacement is coming soon.
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1 hour ago, Don Silsbe said:
. By the way, we don’t say “sprit pole”, just “sprit”. And while we’re on the subject of terminology, on a sailboat, the pulleys are called blocks. It feels weird to read the word “pulley”, when reading your post. (Sorry for being persnickety, but I want you to sound as good as your boat looks.)
I don't think it is being persnickety. Sailboats have a long vocabulary of pieces and parts. It makes discussions like this more precise if we all know or are learning the words. I find it fascinating as a subject as well. Next we can discuss ceiling and floors
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Will do Don. I think the greatest stress will occur taking the mast down. That is the most difficult thing to control without a swivel/collar or what ever we end up calling these things. For the main mast I have to lean forward over the fore dech, lift the mas to just out of the tube before lowering. At this point my hands as the closest to the pivot, hence the greatest lever arm force. When raising I start at the mid point of the mast and move down as the mast goes up. So not quite the same ratio until the mast is almost up. Like everything about sailboats, I am sure there is a learning curve for using this thing.
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I have made my collar, test installed it, and tested it using the mast support that goes in the main mast tube for trailering. I used this mast support to line up the collar for installation. The hole in the collar is 3 1/4" and my mast is just a hair under 3" (My mast tube is a 3" ID PVC pipe). When my mast is up, it will not contact the inside of the collar at all. The wood is Sapelle, to match my deck. The collar is 2 layers, each with the grain 90° from the other. I will give the pieces a couple coats of varnish before final installation. Then the collar can be removed for more varnishing. I tighten the bolts to barely snug. They nuts shouldn't move, I used nylok nuts.
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Because my mast will be able to slip into the mast tube as I get to vertical, I don't think I need a stop.
I think that once you get your mast near vertical you can twist it to slip through the key hole and it will drop onto the thwart, just forward of lining up with the hole, then slip in as you go vertical. The force on your stop piece might be huge as the fulcrum is just a few inches from the bottom, and many feet from the top.
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On 4/27/2024 at 10:12 PM, Reacher said:
The next design issue is that the mast must not protrude through the swivel until it is vertical, then it needs to be released into the hole. And similarly, during takedown the mast must be lifted to the level of the swivel then the bottom of the swivel blocked to retain the foot of the mast.I made this collar to help foot the mast as I raised it. I think it will work for a stop while using the swivel. I may have to extend it a bit, we sill see.
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I like it. I have been pondering such a thing for some time now. That looks like you are on track.
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1 hour ago, musicmanx2 said:
There are two Pad eyes on the front of the mizzen mast maybe so you could hook the pulley on the spit pole to two different locations higher and lower for some reason.
Halyard for mizzen staysail.
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I use shackles for my halyards and I tie my sheets on with a bowline.
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The fact that the padeyes are painted white, and the paint isn't chipped, I would say they have not been used. All I can think of is for the block for a burgee/penant halyard.
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4 hours ago, musicmanx2 said:
I would have to drill a small hole on each sprit end with point.
Or use an eye pad.
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13 hours ago, Don Silsbe said:
There are no ropes on boats.
Except for the bell.
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Is the bolt/pin bent? I can't tell from the pic.
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When doing epoxy work in the summer (in RI), I would some times place the jugs of both parts in an ice water bath. I might have to wait a few minutes trying to mix them, till they thinned back out, but it would buy me a little time in the pot life.
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The manufacturers of polycarbonate and acrylic recommend silicone for bedding their products. It is the one time I use the evil stuff. I mask off the adjacent areas to avoid contamination.
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I went with the luff sleeve on my 9N which was a tender. It could be a little amusing raising the mast on a windy day at anchor. The sail shape is fantastic. For absolute convenience, I think slides and track are the way to go. Being able to lower the sail and leave the mast up when staying some where for a couple days would have been nice, or when beaching.
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One can't over state the importance of a dry fit. I will even try a dry clamping if I have any doubt about the actual procedure to see if it works before I slobber everything with epoxy and find out my idea doesn't go together well.
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Crowned Lapwing
in B & B Yachts Forum
Posted
There are 25 species of Lapwings. I get intrigued every time I see a good picture of one of them. Just thought Lapwing builders in particular might like this photo of a Crowned Lapwing taken in Kruger National Park, South Africa.................
