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Everything posted by Hirilonde

  1. The only place on a cat/ketch that doesn't get fouled wind is the top of the main mast On top of the stem might be fairly good wind.
  2. I don't get it. What are the screws supposed to do?
  3. Nope, never, impossible, this is sacrilege! The WRC looks great.
  4. The problem with marking each location based on the last one is that any error is carried forward to the rest of the frames. As a former builder, I awlays layed out walls, floors, roofs, from one end.
  5. I took my Lapwing off Craig's List for that very reason.
  6. I believe the crates are slightly larger than a sheet of plywood, but I would ask Alan and make sure of the exact size.
  7. Are you doiing the sheer strake bright? The end does come, just not as quickly as we may like. Keep paying attention to the details.
  8. White and varnish, looks great!
  9. @Murray - I made birdsmouth masts and didn't want an exposed tube covering the bottom of the mizzen and exposed. It's not really a big deal, just have to be a bit more careful getting the but into the step.
  10. I was trying to sell it as I wasn't using it much. I was hoping to get enough to fund another build, a small, classic, powerboat. In limbo for now.
  11. Yeah, that is surely part of it. Many of those who could properly evaluate the boat upon inspection are the same ones who would choose to build there own instead. And those who would buy don't, and probably shouldn't, trust their ability to evaluate a possible purchase.
  12. First off, is it real Mahogany? (Swietenia) There are many reddish woods labelled Mahogany that really aren't. What type of boat is this? Is the rudder easily removable? Any pictures? Varnish has absolutely no anti-fouling properties, neither does epoxy. So using either as the final coat below the water line is of no value in that regard. I would take the rudder off at the dock or mooring, and varnish it. (If that is an option.) Or you could scribe the waterline with the board up, and paint the submerged part, to 2" about the water, and paint that part with anti-fouling paint, or paint the whole thing.
  13. What surprises me the most are the prices people are getting for well built B&B boats. I followed Wes's build, and he was a perfectionist. I hope he can get his asking price, the boat is worth it. But history shows lower prices are the norm. I have re-evaluated selling my Lapwing for that reason.
  14. @Murray the compass........................ 1. covered 2. uncovered 3. the cover The picture on cover is Uinen, protector of inland waterways in Middle Earth. The gold runes spell Uinen in Quenya Runes. (Tolkien mythology)
  15. @Murray this is my drawer............. It uses a simple U channel on each side, into which a square slide attached to either side of the drawer fits. I used teak for both piece and just oiled it to slide easily. The drawer has a small hole in each corner of the bottom to drain rain water when left outside. I added a toggle to hold it closed. In a capsize, it will stay above water, so good for cell phones, electronic car keys etc..
  16. @Kennneee The float will keep you from going over to more than horizantel, only your skills can keep you vertical. I couldn't resist the smart ass reply
  17. @Don Silsbe I appreciate the cost concern. I even sought out used hardware. I will never compromise on main sheet lay out. It is vital to me to relax and enjoy myself as well as a safety issue IMO.
  18. I knew I would arrange my main sheeting that way before I bought the plans. In any real wind I must have the sheet coming to me so I can either hold it at the ready, or lay it across my leg at the almost instantly ready. Knowing I can dump the main in a split second means I can relax and enjoy myself. This is probably the only detail I disagree with Graham about.
  19. Yeah, like Don, no bottom paint, for the same reason
  20. I am in Morocco, so watching videos is tedious. I found the top 2, full length fiberglass battens too stiff for light to moderate winds. I spent a lot of time playing around with Maple, making them of various thicknesses and tapering to thin from a few inches aft of the leading end back to about 1/4 way aft. I am not usually OCD, but when it comes to sail shape, bah, even the rest of the boat, I am a fanatic. I am pleased with the result. The amount of bend can then be adjusted by the tension applied by the Velcro strap holding them in. If you want more info I can post pictures when I get home.
  21. I added floorboards to my Lapwing in the aft portion of cockpit. Not for support, but to stay above the bit of water that always seems to be present. I never put them in my Spindrift 9. No real need, and added weight I did not want. It is easy to turn the boat over if any water, unlike my Lapwing. BTW, I did not glass either boat. I did not want the added weight. Light is faster.
  22. I can plane my Lapwing in just under 15 kts of wind solo. I start out on a broad reach and hike out as I head up a little and trim in accordingly. I have hiking straps in the aft cockpit. I believe the Lapwing has less wetted surface than the CS 15. It has a rounded hull and it seems it has more rocker. So I would venture that the Lapwing is faster in light winds.
  23. I used System 3 for my entire Lapwing except for the deck and transom which are varnished. Because I stored my boat outside on the trailer at the marina where I worked during the summer, it often had a small amount of rain water in the bilge. This caused some pealing of the paint on the inside of the bottom. The System 3 has stood up well every where else. I switched to a 1 part poly for the bilge, and eventually the entire interior.
  24. That would be what I would go with based on my past experiences.
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