Hirilonde
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Posts posted by Hirilonde
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These are my design. But I was not the first to do it. A couple others have done similar.
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This topic comes up every now and again. I didn't like the idea of a glued on tiller. It is harder to store and occassionally I like to lift the tiller up to go under it comeing about with others on board. As to curved or not, I made a curved one for my Lapwing and simply followed the directions on my Spindrift, cept for the hinge. I would not make a curved one again. There is nothing really wrong with it, but the straight one works better with the downhaul and if you have one, an uphaul.
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Went rowing and sailing on the pond across the street. The new oars feel great. 6'4" is perfect.
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5 hours ago, TheWeezer said:
I can’t wait to keep working today!
She just started and is addicted already. I'm blaming it all on PadrePoint.
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I removed the bronze half round chafe strip, and preped for painting. I found no signs of rot in the keel nor the outwale under the fendering.
My storage space. As much as I wish I had a regualar Spindrift, storing is definitely a plus for the nesting version.
I made a new set of oars out of Western Red Cedar. It was not my first choice, but I owned a 2x8x10 piece, so it got used. The loom isn't quite are large as I would have liked, 1 3/4", and settled for 1 1/2". Leathers and buttons to do
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Removable side seats for sailing. Side tanks/seats are one of the best features of the non-nesting version.
Painting the bottom. The inside bottom is grey now too.
Getting close to going rowing.
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3 hours ago, Thrillsbe said:
You can do this!
No doubt. She doesn't look the slightest bit intimidated.
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@Thrillsbe - If I had the room, the boat I want would be a mini Whitehall or simillar. It would be built with rivetted laps and bent frames. I just want to build one. But alas, for now my spruced up Spindrift will have to do.
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As I recall Don, some member of the forum gave me a bronze cheek block and cleat that I use with one of my pig sticks on my mizzen.
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I am curious to find out what your completed boat weighs. I am skeptical that anyone has built a Spindrift at a significantly lower weight than a completed Okoume boat. I can't speak to Hoop Pine. I look forward to being convinced it can be done.
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Graham does not call for glassing of the hull on the Spindrift and other designs, though some do choose to do so. Light weight is one of my top priorities, it is why I build BS 1088 Okoume boats. The only glass is the tape at joints. I did coat all surfaces with 3 coats of epoxy as specified. I did it as hot re-coat, no sanding in between, just before and after.
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My Spindrift 9N is 16 years old this year and it is time for some sprucing up. 5 years on an outdoor dinghy rack, 2 seasons in the water at a dinghy dock and the rest stored indoors and banged around every time it was used. Most of those indoor years were following my daughters family from MA to GA and then to VA as the Air Force moved them around.
I now live across the street from a great place to row. At first I thought I would use this as an excuse to build another boat, but I would have no where to keep it. I will not put my Lapwing in outdoor storage.I will be removing the bronze chafe strip and refinishing from the water line down. Except for a few scratches, the professionaly LPU painted topsides are still in great shape. I had to cut the figure 8 knot that kept the bow painter in place off. Years of towing behind my Renegade sinched it up quite well. I will inspect under the fendering and at some of the fastening points for good measure, but no signes of rot can be seen. I am considering making removable side seats like a few others have done. This is the worst of the compromises that were needed to make it nesting. From what I can see so far, these boats last quite well if you follow the instructions.
Starting on the forward section first....................
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I get it about the allocation of funds. There is also the allocation of space. I have just brought my Spindrift 9N home so that I can have a boat for rowing on the drainage puddle across the street for excercise. (puddle = man made lake for dealing with rain run off). It is half a mile across, so plenty for this. I now have a Lapwing,
Spindrift and 2 Kudzu kayaks in my 2 car shop along with my tools and such. It's all a matter of priorities. -
So the laps are epoxy free? Or at least are suspect for voids?
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On 12/30/2020 at 11:49 AM, Thrillsbe said:
I think my current approach is to make the floorboards and buy a one-man tent to place on the platform. The one in the photo is cheaper than the bivy. If I feel ambitious, later, I’ll make a dodger. Not for sailing, but to deflect wind and rain while at anchor. We’ll see about that. Comments?
Unless you are going to cruise semi-often or more, that is a great plan IMO. And if you want to cruise regularly, build a Mach 3.
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I use a "pig stick" on both of my masts. Not only is flying ribbons, pennants and such fun and pretty, it is the best wind indicator money can buy.
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4 hours ago, Steve W said:
Steve is a quiet but super nice guy........
A wise man only speaks when he has something to say.
Going to have to check that out more thoroughly.
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Buffing stainless steel also helps reduce crevice corrosion. It is also worth buffing the heads of screws.
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Pretty boat, some one should jump on it.
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On 12/16/2020 at 10:03 AM, Pete McCrary said:
Which reminds me: Don't forget to slip the closed oarlocks onto the shafts before gluing up the scarfs!
Or remove the buttons to get them on
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West is expensive. But then the Gougeon's brought epoxy to the public and wrote the book. They did the research on additives and when to use each for the best performance. But their product isn't any better than most.
The stuff you link is Lloyds approved and they publish the characteristics of it. I have no first hand experience, heck, I haven't even heard any rumors about it, but both of those say something.
You can get that stuff shipped to the US significantly cheaper than West? The VAT is included in price, so the bottom line is all I would look at.
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Not sure anyone here has even heard of Barents. We are mostly builders, and aluminum isn't a medium used by people here as a rule. Best of luck getting the info you seek.
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Chick, I hope you, and maybe more importantly, your wife, don't believe in omens ans such superstitions.
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I took pieces of 2x8 and coped them to fit the kayaks. Then covered them in carpet. The fit over the cross bars of my rack and are removable.
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7 hours ago, Randy Jones said:
I've dipped my rail in the water several times but have yet to dunk the transom.
Those of use who are considering or already use side mount do not intend to leave it mounted when we sail. A couple of us do not intend to mount it at all when there is wind.
Spindrift 10, #1329 -- "Seabiscuit" . .
in B & B Yachts Forum
Posted
There are 2 major steps in making sectional masts that come apart, the bushings and the tapered transitions that act as stops and to smooth from one section to the next. I hate sanding. I built up my busings in steps until they were just a tad snug, then sanded to a very close but not snug fit. Then I dry fitted the pieces to the depthth called for and built the tapers out of tape, resin and filler. The whole thing is rather "fiddly".
Left shows piece that fits into the step and keeps mast from rotating.
Center shows section 2 that fits into the top of left section.
Right shows the wooden section that fits into middle.
Middle section partially inserted into left/larger section.
Fully inserted joint.