Hirilonde

I used flat battens covered in wax paper wedged in as you describe, to put a sharper corner back on after taping. The batten worked like one side of a mold to keep the goo out of the slot. It ended up giving that side of the fill a finish that only needed sanding. And then dull the sharp corner with a small radius by sanding.

Probably, but if the paper is getting clogged/gummed up, then no ?

I'm confused too.

I have a Lapwing, Spindrift 9N and 2 Kudzu kayaks along with my shop in the "garage".

I did not glass over the corner into the trunk on my Spindrift. It is 16 years old and no sign of any issues. I did do it on my Lapwing. I rounded the corner as described above and had no issues. I had some tedious sanding to do on my Lapwing to get the board to fit. I think I will make a rebate as Don describes if I do it again. I hate sanding, especially if it can be avoided by some other technique.

Isocyanates are the biggest issue with 2 part solvent based LPUs. It is a carcinogen and is not removed by organic cartridge ventilators. Rolling and tipping puts far less into the air than spraying, which atomizes the paint. Professional painters wears suits and breath supplied air. This is the only known way to prevent breathing isocyanates. Is painting a boat or two without supplied air and only some ventilation safe? I don't think any of us are qualified to answer that. I will not use solvent based LPUs as I don't have the equipment necessary to assure safety. Xlene is a carcinogen as well, but is removed by organic vapor cartridge resperators. Xylene is a great solvent, but I find no real need for it and therefore do not use it.

Congratulations Alan and Taylor!

Chessie needs to tighten the downhaul and/or loosen the snotter on the main in the bottom picture of her. Thanks for the update.

I don't have that set up Peter. I bought one with the tensioning clamp.

I am just now trying out a tiller tamer for the first time. For my trial period I started by tying it to the strap eyes I use for my traveller. These aren't even at the outer extent of the transom, never mind the sides. It seems to work just fine angled that far aft. I tried this way for similar reasons as Peter and because I wanted to try things out before adding any hardware to the boat. Because I have to remove my rudder to fit the traler into my garage (20' garage, 19'8" total length Lapwing on trailer without rudder) I will need to undo one end of the line to remove rudder and stow it in boat. I am thinking a strap eye on one end mounted to the transom near side and the same, but with a jamb cleat for the other end.

If the davits are closer together than the pick ups, then it will force the top bolts connections together, but try to pull the bottom hardware connections apart. And then there is the reverse. A little of either may not be a big deal.

The thinner the paint, the more it saturates the weave. The less viscous paint may relax the weave before it dries. This could very well be the problem.

I did, so yes. Yes, it is the outside of the mold which is the inside of the combing.

Especially since our rec center is closed for Covid.

Well, I now have a new excercise regime. I row a half hour 4-5 mornings each week. I calculate that I cover just about a mile. I made the oars using the same formula I used for my Lapwing oars from "The Long Oars of Pete Culler" I think my Lapwing oars are almost a foot too long and I think my Spindrift oars are a few inches too short. WRC oars sure are light weight though. MVI_8019_Trim.mp4

I cut my stringers just as you described and I cut my gunwales the same way, but out of a 2x4 (1½")

This is a live forum, not an encyclopedia. Never balk at asking a question just because some one else might have asked it before. You might need info not in the last version or direct answers to your situation. By all means, search the forum, but then ask your question.

I think that is an understatement. Will you be using a winch? I would definitely consider some kind of build up as the base of your lifting points, to spread the load out. I don't think anything about the boat is prepared for such loads.

Be very leary of what you ordered. I oredered some very expensive jewelry for my wife for Valentines Day. But they sent me boat parts instead.

It looks like you are pinching to me. I never bring the main clew inside the rub rail.

Baltic Birch isn't really a marine plywood, but it sure lasts like it is. I used it for my foot brace for my Spindrift. The only really down side in either or our cases is weight. It isn't part of the boat and can be inspected often if need be.

Nice job. Spindrift 11N unknown is Garry, I forget last name. He is the one who called it his expedition Spindrift. He is also the one who designed the SS nesting hardward I used on my 9N. The link for this is still on his site. https://pbase.com/onceagain/connector_design Maybe a link to the forum thread documenting a build could be added. That way you get a ton of pictures for those who want to see them without clogging up your log.

2 part LPUs are hard and brittle. SoF kayaks like flexible paint.

This would be my suggestion. Maybe mount your swivel block/cleats to a block of some sort that can be connected with bolts and wing nuts?

Don't the plans call for the outwales to be applied before fillets?