Hirilonde

LOL, it is never just the anything. Keep working!

The only down side I can see to your system is that you can't use the center seat without the side seats. Though in reality I don't know that it is much of an issue. I use my Spindrift for rowing mostly now, just an occasional sail and don't use my side seats except for sailing. I really like the simplicity of locking it all in place you have developed.

Like he said, it is an overhead. Ceiling covers the inside of the hull up to the first deck. ?

Pete, how about a line that goes from an eye on the mast below the boom, to another eye at/on the partner. You tie the mast to the boat. If you forget to untie it, you can't remove the mast until you do is the worst that can happen. I did this with my mizzen on my Lapwing. The main has 3 lines coming to the deck that hold it in should I go over.

I try very hard to make the exterior of my boat and some interior details near perfect. Good enough is my standard for the inside of the hull. There is a limit to how much sanding and refilling I will do inside corners, concave surfaces and other such places.

And to think the rest of us struggled to flip our boats over.

The trim line should be set for the boat at rest. The fact that it changes when under way never bothers me as it will almost always be wrong no matter where you put it.

I really like the forward compartments. I am anxious to see/hear about how it works out for self rescue. Nothing done on a nesting version will match the original, but better might be enough to self rescue, and that would be a great upgrade.

I used flat battens covered in wax paper wedged in as you describe, to put a sharper corner back on after taping. The batten worked like one side of a mold to keep the goo out of the slot. It ended up giving that side of the fill a finish that only needed sanding. And then dull the sharp corner with a small radius by sanding.

Probably, but if the paper is getting clogged/gummed up, then no ?

I'm confused too.

I have a Lapwing, Spindrift 9N and 2 Kudzu kayaks along with my shop in the "garage".

I did not glass over the corner into the trunk on my Spindrift. It is 16 years old and no sign of any issues. I did do it on my Lapwing. I rounded the corner as described above and had no issues. I had some tedious sanding to do on my Lapwing to get the board to fit. I think I will make a rebate as Don describes if I do it again. I hate sanding, especially if it can be avoided by some other technique.

Isocyanates are the biggest issue with 2 part solvent based LPUs. It is a carcinogen and is not removed by organic cartridge ventilators. Rolling and tipping puts far less into the air than spraying, which atomizes the paint. Professional painters wears suits and breath supplied air. This is the only known way to prevent breathing isocyanates. Is painting a boat or two without supplied air and only some ventilation safe? I don't think any of us are qualified to answer that. I will not use solvent based LPUs as I don't have the equipment necessary to assure safety. Xlene is a carcinogen as well, but is removed by organic vapor cartridge resperators. Xylene is a great solvent, but I find no real need for it and therefore do not use it.

Congratulations Alan and Taylor!

Chessie needs to tighten the downhaul and/or loosen the snotter on the main in the bottom picture of her. Thanks for the update.

I don't have that set up Peter. I bought one with the tensioning clamp.

I am just now trying out a tiller tamer for the first time. For my trial period I started by tying it to the strap eyes I use for my traveller. These aren't even at the outer extent of the transom, never mind the sides. It seems to work just fine angled that far aft. I tried this way for similar reasons as Peter and because I wanted to try things out before adding any hardware to the boat. Because I have to remove my rudder to fit the traler into my garage (20' garage, 19'8" total length Lapwing on trailer without rudder) I will need to undo one end of the line to remove rudder and stow it in boat. I am thinking a strap eye on one end mounted to the transom near side and the same, but with a jamb cleat for the other end.

If the davits are closer together than the pick ups, then it will force the top bolts connections together, but try to pull the bottom hardware connections apart. And then there is the reverse. A little of either may not be a big deal.

The thinner the paint, the more it saturates the weave. The less viscous paint may relax the weave before it dries. This could very well be the problem.

I did, so yes. Yes, it is the outside of the mold which is the inside of the combing.

Especially since our rec center is closed for Covid.

Well, I now have a new excercise regime. I row a half hour 4-5 mornings each week. I calculate that I cover just about a mile. I made the oars using the same formula I used for my Lapwing oars from "The Long Oars of Pete Culler" I think my Lapwing oars are almost a foot too long and I think my Spindrift oars are a few inches too short. WRC oars sure are light weight though. MVI_8019_Trim.mp4

I cut my stringers just as you described and I cut my gunwales the same way, but out of a 2x4 (1½")

This is a live forum, not an encyclopedia. Never balk at asking a question just because some one else might have asked it before. You might need info not in the last version or direct answers to your situation. By all means, search the forum, but then ask your question.