Hirilonde
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Posts posted by Hirilonde
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more photos...........
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I purchased Pearson Renegade #51; formerly Aliance, last fall in Niantic CT. I sailed her to my place of employment; Dodson Boatyard in Stonington, CT and immediately pulled her out to do a little work. I set a completion/launching date of July 15. I figured this was reasonable though demanding but would also give me a bit of a sailing season.
EXTERIOR:
I totally removed all exterior woodwork; cockpit combing, handrails, toe rails, taff rail, dorade boxes. I saved the pieces and used them as patterns and made new pieces in teak instead of the mahogany the boat was originally trimmed with. I made a new companionway slider and forward hatch out of teak to replace the fiberglass ones. After dry fitting all these pieces I took them home and prevarnished them.
I removed all the ports, fixed and operable. I made new fixed ports and cleaned and reglazed the operable to be installed again later.
As the boat was outside under a covering I next went on to do the interior. My boss was going to let me have shed space and eventually the paint bay to use in the spring as our customer's boats were commisioned for the season. In early May I moved into a shed and went on to work the exterior again.
I chipped, chemical stripped, ground and sanded the entire hull including the bottom, topsides, deck and coach house down to a remnant of the original gelcoat. This was the nastiest, dirtiest most tedious work I have ever done.
I glassed in several holes including former gauge locations. I wanted a fresh slate. I filled all the dings gouges, major crazing etc. I used Interlux Premium Filler for all surfaces above the water line and Awlgrip Awlfare below it. I fared and sanded until I couldn't take it any more or the area was totally fare and smooth.
I epoxied and barrier coated the bottom. I used Epiglass 1 : 1 epoxy (a quite thin material) to seal the crazing and bare glass areas on the bottom. It penetrates very well into crevices. I then used Interlux Interprotect (an epoxy barrier coat). This has a "hot" recoat window of 14 days and a "hot" bottom paint window of 9 hours meaning I would not have to sand the bottom again.
Intermittently with the coats of Interprotect on the bottom (to get smooth fare overlaps near the waterline) I primed the rest of the hull including deck, cockpit and coach house. A salesman from Alexaseal was trying to get us to try their product in hopes of getting our business from Awlgrip. He gave us several gallons each of their epoxy primers and 2 part linear polymer topcoat. My boss let Hirilond
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I suspect we've moved out of the realm of a really " trailerable" boat and into the realm of a "Highway legally transportable" boat.
Ah, now this thread makes more sense to me. Now the 2 criteria are much closer.
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When I glue teak I clean both surfaces to be glued with acetone or alcohol. I do this to remove the natural oils teak has from these surfaces to improve the bond. I let the cleaner dry (only takes a couple minutes with tone or alcohol) so as not to contaminate the epoxy. I have never heard anything good about adding thinners to epoxy.
If I am gluing very porous materials with epoxy I sometimes wet out the 2 surfaces with epoxy with no cabosil or 406 for absorbtion. Then I add the filler and apply a second coat before bonding and clamping.
The heating idea Charlie mentions works well, but keep in mind it speeds up the cure as well, especially the stuff still in the pot.
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Hello all! I've been reading the messing-about boards for a while now and even joined and made a few posts already. I found this forum as a result of B&B and the fact that I bought plans for a Spindrift 9N so I will make my into here.
I live in RI but work as a carpenter in a boatyard in CT. My son is off in college and my daughter is nearly done with high school. This fact (the financial aspect of it) and that I have a free place to store a boat meant it was time to get back into sailing.
Last fall I bought 1967 Pearson Renegade #51. http://www.renegade27.org/ It was structually sound but a mess. I spent 8 months refitting her and have enjoyed daysailing this summer. Now this winter I add cushions, hopefully a dodger and a dinghy. This should make her ready for some serious cruising next summer.
I spent a ton of time researching and debating the pros and cons of almost every conceivable option for a tender. I want a dinghy that rows and sails well. I want one that tows well but can be put on the deck of a 27 footer for long passages or stormy weather. I want to sail into a harbor in the afternoon on Hirilond
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Trailerable and ocean cruiser? I guess everyone has there own opinions but I don't really see both of those criteria fitting the same boat. My thoughts are that each would compromise the other too much. I beat myself up debating similar issues as well and couldn't find a suitable mix. I settled on an old Pearson Renegade which I refitted myself. http://www.renegade27.org/
Comfortable (relatively speaking) and seaworthy won out over trailerable.
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Sitka Spruce is the wood of choice over the years. The 7 Concordias I help take care of all have spruce spars. Long stringy grain and light weight. But I agree, that for commonly available lumber, Doug Fir is probably the best.
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I would think the plast-dip would work fine. The tacky characteristic it has for other solid objects has little if any relationship to how the coated rudder will flow through water. It probably isn't as drag free as the new high-tech hard racing bottom paints. But unless you are entering an important race; who cares? :wink:
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Looks like you had a great trip. Narraganset Bay is such a great place to sail. Many have proclaimed it the best small boat sailing on the east coast.
Does anyone else have as much fun in their boat as you do?I work in a boatyard and we have very few customers who could compete with Jeff in a fun/season contest
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At the boatyard where I work we repaint aluminum spars all the time. We use Awlgrip products on them.
After prep and a serious cleaning of the surfaces we apply several coats of Awlgrip 545 2-part epoxy primer. If applied at intervals of 1 to 9 hours between coats it can be "hot" recoated; that means no sanding between coats needed. After 3 to 10 coats of primer (we have some very picky and wealthy customers) the primer is sanded with 400g paper and sprayed with Awlgrip 2-part linear polymer polyurethane topcoat. Some have us sand again and dress with clear.
Awlgrip can also be brushed. The results, though not a car finish like sprayed, are still quite good.
I will be using these products on my Spindrift 9N this winter. I will be "rolling and tipping"
If you choose to use 2 part epoxies and polyurethanes make sure to read the MSDSs and DO NOT skimp on the safety equipment they call for.
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Is "plasti-dip" the stuff you dip tool handles into, like pliers?
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If there is any piece on a dinghy where resilience is more important than weight; you have found it. I am certainly considering weight for my choice for gunwhales, probably going to choose Sitka Spruce. But since every time I drag my tender the keel batten is going to suffer for it I think I am going to use African Mahogany. It has long stringy fibers that bend well and resist abrasion. It glues well and is quite rot resistant.
I'm not sure how available it is in areas where boat building doesn't normally occur though.
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My mother says that when I was 2 years old I would row cardboard boxes with her best wooden cooking spoons. When I was 5 she would let me row the family pram in 2 feet of water and anchored on a short scope while she watched me row and my brother swim.
Maybe there is some kid near you pining away for a boat who could earn it in some creative way?I don't know how many kids today fell in love with boats early like I did, but if you find one you will make him/her extremely happy.
Dave
self-restored 1967 Pearson Renegade
soon to be started Spindrift 9 Nesting
the renovation of Hirilond
in Main Forum
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just a few more...........