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Hirilonde

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Posts posted by Hirilonde

  1. For what kind of saw? :?

    I cut most of the plywood with a Bosch jig saw. I find that even though there are many brands of blades made to fit my saw, and some are quite good; Bosch makes the best ones. I like 12 teeth per inch all purpose wood blades for most any cutting of boat parts.

  2. Sure hope he doesn't mess up your beautiful work.

    Heehee, thanks. He is the only person I know who filled dings, faired, epoxy primed and 2-part linear polyurethaned an entire 18' catboat using roll and tip method, then wet sanded, compounded and buffed the job till it looked like it was sprayed. He will do a great job finishing it.

    Will your customer post a picture of the final?

    I made him promise to bring it back to the yard for final photos including one being rowed before I let him take it home.

    :wink:

  3. Well, its time to turn it over to the owner. I've had a lot of fun building her, and it hurts to not take it through the final pretty up stages after all the effort expended. But, it is the deal I made with him, and it means I can start on mine now :D

    Some time in the spring my friend will be bringing her back all painted and ready to row for final pictures. I'll just have to wait till then to see the final results.

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  4. Thanks for the replies all. I will recommend to my friend I am building her for that I use the details as in the plans. He particularly liked the no bow hardware idea as he hates the dings in his catboat.

    I hope to finish building this weekend. Then I turn her over to the owner to sand, fair, prime and paint. Then I can turn my attention to my tender (Spindrift 9N).

  5. I'm getting down to the final stages of construction and have a couple questions. These are directed to Graham or anyone with pram experiences that might have an opinion.

    1. The Minipaw plans show the aft seat as being forward of the transom by about 2" in the longitudinal section. I am curious why? Is it because a nominal 1x10 is used and by placing it forward the actual seat protrudes forward 12" from the transom? I was wondering if maybe a 12" seat that meets the transom might be better? I am looking for any comments in regards to either option in helping me decide how to make mine.

    2. The plans show the bow painter hole located through the transom below the gunwhale extension but high enough to go through the stiffener. I understand the logic to this in regards to waterproof and an existing backer. Is a painter from this far up as good as one located lower in regards to towing? I know some dinghys squat down at the stern naturally and don't need a painter coming from down closer to the water to aid in keeping the bow up while in tow. Is this the case with the Mini or might a through bolted padeye mounted lower work better? Or is it unnecessary? Again, any informed opinions are welcome.

  6. I put in a long day today and finished wiring, fileted and glassed the interior of the seams.

    Wiring went faster in total time than I thought it would, but was harder than I thought in some respects. It never dawned on me that cleaning blood from the plywood would be one of the steps :oops: I ended up using 16 awg stainless seizing wire.

    I took Charlie's advice on fileting/glassing and did the entire interior as a non-stop process. It may be a bit harder removing the wire tomorrow, but I figure I saved a ton of time de-waxing and sanding between filets and glass.

    A note on my plywood: I used a French Moroccan okume. It was recommended by our lumber supplier. It seems it is fabricated to Lloyds of London specifications, what-ever they are. Sheets measure 48.25" x 98.5" (see photo)

    Tomorrow I pull the wires and see how far I can get from there.

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  7. I was laying out the panels for the Mini I am building for a friend today. As I was plotting out the points for the sides I ran into a bit of confusion as to how to plot points for the curve of the shear. The chine is layed out from the edge of the plywood in 20" increments but no points are given for the shear.

    By locating the center frame I was able to plot one other point aside from the bow and stern by measuring back from the chine the height of the center frame. It would seem this will be accurate enough.

    post-1086-129497654851_thumb.jpg

  8. Thanks for the comments on ratios all. I just have to finish this Mini and I can try my hand at ply scarfing.

    12 - 1 would be good, but that can take a LOT of shop space cutting solid lumber.

    We use a router jig that fits onto the end of the board. It is made out of polycarbonate and consists of a beveled slide that accepts a piece that holds the router. Makes short work of it but only works well for the ends of boards. It can also work for scarfing in repairs for damaged sections of box masts. Our boat sheds are up to 100' long, so space isn't the issue. Our workshop is a shoe box :cry:

  9. No scarfs for the Minipaw I start today, but going to make that jig to prep for my Spindrift 9N later this winter. Thanks for the info Jan, very clever jig.

    What ratio (length of scarf/1" of material) are most of you using? For box masts on Concordias we have been using 12:1. Which for 1/4" ply is 3 " long. Jan's instructions show 6 degrees, but anything that shallow I would think can lead to slight variations when used and need a little doctoring up by hand.

  10. It was me Graham, and thanks for the reply. You include a very specific detail of the layering of glass for the nesting bulkheads that I found it odd that no mention was made of the rest of the seams.

    Speaking of glass weight: the stuff I ordered is 9.5 oz.. The supplier we use at work has several widths but just the one weight.

    My plywood just came in as well and hope to start laying out panels sunday if I can get my boat covered saturday.

  11. The manufacturers of polycarbonates still do recommend silicone. They do so because they know it doesn't attack their material and they want to cover their liabilities. They also don't have to warantee whether the installation leaks or not. I have been using Sikaflex 291 for the past 4 years on countless fixed port bedding jobs using polycarbonate and have yet to etch the material in the slightest, inspite of smearing it all over the viewable portion of the port during the cleaning process.

    I am not advertising for Sika. Everyone should use their own best judgment in choosing materials. But keep in mind that manufacturers may be more interested in their liabilities than researching new products.

  12. My favorite bedding is Sikaflex, and it harms nothing. But it only comes in cartridges and doesn't keep well for long after opened. It has a fairly long working period in which it cleans easily

    Boatlife's Lifecaulk works very well and comes in small toothpaste like containers. These tubes last quite a long time when recapped. The working time isn't as long, especially when warm. It turns to a cottage cheese like consistency after a while and becomes a nuisance to clean up, but it does still clean.

    Both clean easily with mineral spirits within their windows.

    I assume these access ports are plastic? The manufacturer probably wants to make sure you don't use any harse solvent based materials which may eat into or at least etch the plastic. Neither Sikaflex nor Lifecaulk will attack plastics and mineral spirits doesn't either.

    4200 isn't quite as tenacious as 5200, but still more adhesive than you probably need.

  13. I used a search and found many old threads on the subject and some good info. I do however have a specific question.

    While cleaning out the lumber loft at work I found a coil of solid bronze wire, propably 14 AWG or there abouts. My question should I choose to use it is; can I snip the knot off flush on the outside with the surface and just leave the rest of it in the ply and fillet? Bronze sands quite easily and is a very stable material but I was wondering if anyone knew of any reason why I should not leave some of it behind.

  14. I don't think the order used is important if the right materials are used in the amounts necessary to achieve the results required and IF: ALL BONDS ARE SOLID.

    since the fairing compund IS SOFT for easy sanding, I would not trust glassing over it. I'd worry about the bond to the actual wood, which is the important part of glassing.

    Charlie, are you concerned about the glass layer adhering to the filler? or the filler to the wood?

    Whenever I want to used a soft filler for sanding purposes, which implies a rather dry one, I worry about its bond to the wood. To deal with this I first paint out the wood with pure resin then apply the filler immediately to the wetted out surface. This gives me the saturated/penetrated bond to the wood and the soft, dry and easy to sand surface. This surface can then be sanded out to allow for a good mechanical bond to whatever layer comes next.

  15. I HATE silicone on anything to do with boats.

    Amen!!! The stuff should be illegal. There is little I hate more than having to repair or replace something bedded in that stuff.

    5200 or 52-goo as we call it at the boatyard is great if you never want to take it apart. All too many people want to use it as a bedding compound. It does bed well but removal of the bedded piece often causes damage and when mechanical fastening is being used the adhesive properties are unecessary. Sounds like you have a good application for it though.

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