Hirilonde
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Posts posted by Hirilonde
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Looks like she sails just fine. Hopefully your action shots will help motivate me for the home stretch
I ordered my sail from Carla just recently and I'm in the sand and fair phase. If all goes well I will have to consult Jeff's cold weather thread and get out my Mustang float coat as I should be done a little early for the season up here.
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I used West System's 9 oz. on my Spindrift 9. http://www.messing-about.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5135 might be of help to you as well. Graham comments in that thread as well.
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Charlie is talking about a feathered tenon. The "feather is an oval or rectangular piece that fits into 2 mortises, one in each piece of wood being joined. I have been talking about blind or through tenons which are part of one of the 2 pieces. The tenon can be cut into the piece in several ways from the one pass tenoning machine or many passes on a table saw and numerous ways in between.
Mortise and tenon joints can be pinned, wedged, glued or combinations of. The windows and doors of long ago were usually blind tenon joints ( the tenon does not break through the mortised piece) and were pinned to allow for expansions and contractions without damaging the joint. Pinned joints are much stronger in the direction of shearing the tenon rather than pulling it out.
Door and window joints were oriented to counter the direction of greatest stress. An example of this is the bottom rail of a double hung window tenons into the stile as it is pulled down and would otherwise pull the joint apart. Most people misname rails and stiles as being: rails horizontal and stiles vertical when in fact they are named for which component of the joint they contain: rail is tenoned and stile is mortised. In most cases rails are horizontal and stiles vertical as this orientation is usually more sound, hence why many think the direction is the definition.
In very stable woods like teak, or in cases where the product will be very well sealed against moisture the joints can be done in either direction and glued. As little expansion or contraction will ever occur the joints are safe from damage due to grain in opposite directions working against each other.
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If you shoulder the tenon you can leave it square and leave the half round gap in the mortise as it will be hidden.
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I went through 8 months of physical therapy. If an occupational therapist is anything like a physical therapist you aren't exaggerating :evil:
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There are lots of techniques for staying warm while in the boat. Some good ones are mentioned already. But if you go over in an open boat how do you stay warm? A wet suit, dry suit or the like is all that works. Every frostbite series I know of requires a wet suit at the least. Water temperatures in Narragansett Bay in April are likely still below 50 deg. F.
Reef early, don't venture far and don't go out or come in early in anything approaching heavy air if you do go. A capsize in summer is usually a nuisance at worst. In winter it is a completely different scenario.
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Looks like a great place to camp/cruise. I'm trying to use the images to inspire me to finish my winter list so I can go cruising this summer. 8)
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OK, fine, Garry proved it works a long time ago. And Vinegar Joe proved it again some time later. But today, even I succeeded in making it work! Thanks again Garry for access to your drawings and the on-line advice. I am very pleased with how it came out and look forward to launching this spring to try it in the water.
I would like to fill/fair over the hardware. I am considering using West epoxy with 404 filler (a thicker version of the mix I used to bed it with). Then maybe put one layer of glass tape over it to reduce the chances of stress on the hardware cracking the filler. Any ideas on this or other suggestions would be appreciated.
Speaking of launching; my friend at work whom I built the Minipaw for posed an interesting question. He wants to know if I will be having 2 launching parties: one for each half. What is the correct protocol here? And this question got me thinking (I know it is dangerous to do so, but sometimes I can't help it). Does each half need its own name? I am thinking of using a hyphenated name where each part goes with one half. Any help in this regards is appreciated as well. :wink:
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The description of it sounds way too good to be true, which very often means it is. If it is in fact what it says it is, then it shouldn't be long before everyone is raving about it. I think I will wait to hear from other than the manufacture proclaiming its attributes. But if in fact it turns out it does what it claims, I will be using it.
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Just another option for your consideration Joe......
In the days of wooden boats hardware was very expensive as it was all hand made. Many doors, hatches covers etc were held closed with a simple wooden butterfly latch. It consists of a wooden piece, sometimes rectangular, or sometimes a more embellished shape and a screw in the middle of it that allowed it to pivot but was tight enough to hold it in the direction it was set in (engaged or open). If the adjoining surface to the door etc was not flush with it; some form of build up was made to attach the butterfly to.
It would appear that your hatch uses no hinge, so 2 of these, one on each of opposite sides would be needed. With a hinge only one would be needed.
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Dudley Dix already sells plans for Minis made out of plywood http://dixdesign.com/oneill.htm
They are quite a build, but will probably never compete with the carbon/foam sandwich construction of the protos like Acadia http://www.teamacadia.org/ which had its hull built and Maine and the rest of work done in Stonington under the guidance of the designer Rod Johnstone of J Boats fame.
Minis are quite an exciting class, but I'll stop here is this thread is about Grahams new design.
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I just bought the .065 tubing for my Spindrift mast from McMaster Carr. The 2" x 6' piece cost $2 less than the 1 3/4" x 6' piece. Go figure.
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Sure looks like a weatherly hull. I hope your race has some serious beating legs, that'll teach the catamaran a lesson
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I sometimes found the cut ends of my fiberglass tape frustrating, and my boat is half the length. You certainly are persistent, and she looks great. Congratulations on your launching!
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I would also make up a slightly smaller radius jig out of MDF and clamp the board to it to take the curve. The board will spring back to some extent when it dries.
Very good advice. You might be able to muscle the loss in curve back during clamping/gluing, but prebending to a tighter radius is definitely easier.
since mahogany is brittle and prone to splitting in a tight curve.Honduras mahogany sure is, but African is quite stringy. That is why African is so often chosen for planking. Regardless of what species you have all precautions are good ones.
I will stay out of the hot towel vs steam debate
But keep in mind that if you fail to get the curve on the first try the second one will be much more prone to splits or even breaking. Having everything set up, all your stuff ready and at hand, a helper already present, etc are key. The actual project is not overly difficult, but because you haven't done it before and you know you have such a small time constraint can sure be intimidating. Best of luck.
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If you are looking for a snug fit to the curve when nested then plans would be dangerous I would think. Even though we are all building our boats from the same plans; because they are not lofted they all come out slightly different. Scribing a pattern to the actual halves while nested is the best method.
I will be installing waterproof screw type access ports into the sides of my stern quarter seats. So even though I wanted the curved seats I opted to go with straight panel ones.
My plan, had I chosen to go with curves was to install the cleats according to the dimensions in the plans, then scribe a pattern to fit the shape of the bow section while actually nested. Another good pattern stock is door skin plywood. It is barely 1/8th'" thick, can be cut with tin snips and quite inexpensive. I was going to scribe the door skin to the bow curve, then attach this curved piece to another scribed to the stern section on the cleats using hot glue. By making each fit separately the pattern comes out very accurate. And by gluing them together after makes the overall dimensions accurate.
Regardless of the methods you use, the overall process is scribe, fit, check, and repeat. The curves look great. Were it not for my pragmatic requirements I would have gladly invested the additional time it takes to make them.
If you check out Garry's web site you will discover he wanted to maximize the storage space in his. So making them as large as would still fit the bow section nested was a good choice. In my case I want to minimize the tank/seats to maximize open space for people and stuff while transporting to and from my Renegade. That and mine is a 9 vs. 11. Ah, decisions decisions, and we thought Graham figured this all out for us :wink:
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When I say 'stand alone' I mean a floor model drill press expressly built for mortising. Some even have indexing tables like a milling machine so that you can set up stops and make the exact same mortise repeatedly. I made end pieces for English garden type furniture for a while and had a set of jigs and used stop settings to repeatedly make the same piece over and again. My father acquired this drill press when he bought out a small woodworking shop. I suspect that today one like it would cost a couple thousand.
The bench top one is much simpler. It can accept 1/4" thru 3/4" mortising bits. You need to either mark out the ends of the mortice manually or make your own jig that attaches to the bench. It has a sliding fence so that you can center the mortise on varying width material. Or off-center it as required. It has a hold down bar to make extracting the bit from each plunge easier. I use it at work to make doors, usually for cabinets but did make a locust 4 panel foc'sle door to match the other on a Concordia 39 yawl last winter. It saves some serious time when making doors.
It all comes down to how often you make mortise and tenon joints and your budget.
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I bought a bench top morticing drill press for the shop at work. It isn't as good as the much more expensive stand alone type, but with care in use it works quite well. I can take a photo of it and get you more info if you like. I believe it cost a couple hundred dollars.
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Thanks for the reply Garry. I will probably go with bolts for the top at first anyway. I made 3 sets of hardware. I had already glued in the 'patches' for a center one as well (well, slightly off center, mine is a sailing version). I may skip installing the 3rd one. I wonder if it adds difficulty in alignment while bobbing around trying to fit the halves together?
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Garry,
How many connector pairs did you use? 3 to replace the bottome 3 bolts? Or just the 2 at the chines?
I have glued in all the backer patches/reinforcements. And am starting to fabricate the metal pieces.
I will probably only assemble/disassemble this thing a couple times a year while cruising. I am sure I will opt to tow whenever possible. I bet the 5 bolt system really isn't that hard with practice, and this hardware does add complication and time to the fabrication process. But, they look cool and I'm gonna make 'em
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So I don't know what the real answer is.
The real answer is 42
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What are the actual rules for the "open" class" or whatever it is called that multihulls and mono hulls, paddlers and sailers etc all compete against each other in? The whole things sounds very intriguing, but without care in controlling how this event evolves it could get really silly, although maybe that is part of it.
I lost interest in sailboat racing quite a while ago. I don't much care for how it has evolved over the years, not that anyone should be concerned with my opinion. But one class of boat sparked anew my interest. Dodson's where I work is a sponsor in a Mini 6.5 that has been campaigning all last season to qualify for the 2007 Mini Transat Race in September. That I have been there for the building of the boat and gotten to know the designer and skipper probably plays a part in my intrigue. http://www.teamacadia.org/ Enough Hijacking......
From what I have read here it seams like this race is something that would be fun to campaign for such as you are doing Graham, or even just to follow like most of us will be doing. It will be interesting in the least to see what happens this next year and how this event progresses.
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Now me, on the other hand, I have moss!
Green, looks pretty, doesn't need fertilizer or watering? I have some of that stuff too
Pswan,
She looks great. Oh, and to answer your question
but are we ever finished with a boat?"A boat isn't finished until she sinks."
Thats what "they" say anyway. I just know my boats will never be finished! :wink:
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Well I know from having built one that the Minipaw sure is light. There is something to say for that for your situation. I think Charlie has proven it can carry 400 lbs, but 500 may be pushing it. A Spindrift will tow better, but they start at 9 feet, and weigh more. If towing will only be an occasional thing then a small pram would be my tendency. Could you leave it on your mooring while out sailing? If towing will happen often I would lean towards something that could plane easily like the Spindrift.
Seems half the fun of boating is making decisions :wink:
Spindrift sailing
in B & B Yachts Forum
Posted
You don't have to close it as you slow down or stop. There is a flap door that keeps water from coming in during times that it isn't actually bailing. This flap may not be 100% leak free, but works well enough to leave it open while towing. The only reason you wouldn't leave it open all the time while sailing is the extra drag.