Hirilonde
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Posts posted by Hirilonde
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Now you have me psyched to sail mine. Nice shots. Carla says I should have my sail any day now.
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The title of your thread says what matters, now its time to go have some fun (not to imply building em isn't). She looks good out there on the water, enjoy!
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The prices paid for boats is a confusing issue. I have known beautiful well crafted boats to never illicit bids any where near what they were worth. I have known garbage scows to sell for far more than they were ever worth. The only known facts about boat values are:
1. no matter what you pay to buy a boat you will spend more on it soon after
2. no matter how much you spend on your boat you will never get it back selling it
3. you can always buy a boat but you can't always sell the one you have when you want to
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On my Renegade I have a 10 amp - 2 battery smart charger hooked up to an outlet that is switched/breaker protected as part of my shore power system (the rest of my system is another outlet on a separate breaker switch). It does exactly as Frank mentions. 2 singles or 1 double? I don't think it matters.
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what I am doing is sealing the seam between the fir stringers and the merenti side pannels on My vacationer.
This gives me the impression that it is mostly cosmetic? If so then you aren't fastening in any capacity, so 5200 isn't needed at all. If I don't need a chemical fastening then I don't want a goop that will be that difficult to remove when the time comes to redo or repair. I would use a mildly adhesive bedding like 3M 101, BoatLife Lifecaulk or my favorite Sikaflex 291. Or maybe even that tube of 3M 400, but I have no experience with the product.
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They are entirely different products. The word marine is about all they have in common.
5200 is a tenacious polyurethane adhesive. I only use it for applications where I can virtually guarantee that I will never try to take "it" apart.
4000 is a cosmetic sealant. It has mild adhesive properties. The description the 3M gives for it makes it seem like an interior material or maybe for caulking after the fact when your bedding has failed. It is not a polyurethane but 3M doesn't seem to really say what it is.
4200 is a polyurethane adhesive with a bonding strength of about half that of 5200.
There are many "boat caulks". Some of them are quite good, and when the specific product most suitable for any given application is used the results meet the specs required. What one really needs to do is define the requirements of the situation first, then choose the appropriate product. Is the goop expected to be the primary fastener? Is it just to waterproof a mechanically fastened joint? Is it something else?
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I guess Jeff is hooked on building boats. Soon he will have his own fleet! Looks good Jeff and your family seems to think so too.
Life must be good for you. Nice new boat' date=' complete with a great looking crew.[/quote']Boat building and sailing as one's hobbies and a family that shares in them? That's an understatement Mike :wink:
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The fir is quite a good choice for the boom, and with a chafe strip it should work well for the keel also. Any good marine supplier can access half oval or half round stock for you. I used bronze, but SS will work as well.
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If I make a mistake say with cutting the foam' date=' I can simply glue on another piece and start over...not with wood.[/quote']
But you should see the wood worker's scrap pile! :oops:
But I do like my wooden rudder:
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If somebody has glued them with epoxy or other glue' date=' all bets are off.[/quote']
All people who epoxy bungs in should be hanged, drawn and quartered! Nothing on a boat is permanent, everything needs to be repaired or replaced some day. I use either old varnish or air thickened shellac. It seals the bung in, ads a little adhesive and yet it is still reasonably easy to remove.
I made a small tool for removing bungs. It is like a 3/16" chisel only the stock is much thicker and the edge is a much greater angle. I made it out of a scrap piece of tool steel and a small piece of teak for a handle. I can dig bungs out while not damaging the hole. So I can just put a new one in after refastening the piece.
I just finished fabricating and installing new toe rails on a 20' skipjack at work. I like to precoat these before installation. The owner has been maintaining the boat with CPES as a primer and Bristol Finish over it. So that is what I put on the new toe rails. He loves the stuff. I am not sure yet what I think. Our varnishers will be putting a few more coats on now that it is installed and the screw holes bunged.
A word of warning to all who consider Bristol Finish: The health hazards mentioned in the instructions are an understatement. The catalyst contains isocyanates, and this stuff is deadly.
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I built my rudder, installed the pintles on it and then used it to lay out the gudgeons on the transom. If you aren't ready to build your rudder then just make a cardboard mock up to get the spacing and locations. In general though, the top gudgeon is an inch or so down from the top of the transom and the bottom one is about 2 inches up from the keel.
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I finally got the weather to go for a row. Good thing I went today, supposed to start snowing tonight
To make it a good shakedown I launched the 2 halves and assembled them in the water. I thought that Garry's nesting hardware was good when I did it on dry land. It is even better in the water. From the time I stepped off the dock into the aft section, through pulling the fore section to me and joining the lower brackets, through installing the 2 bolts and wing nuts and then setting the 2 removable seats in place took at least a minute. And I shipped no water in the process either. You'd almost think I knew what I was doing :wink: The hours it took making and installing the brackets has paid off. Thanks again Garry, a well thought out design.
A few pics of me rowing.........
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Yes' date=' I share my small garage with the mechanic, the tinkerer, carpenter, motorcyclist, boat builder and the laundry crew![/quote']
I hope none of them get in your way!! :wink:
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Oak can look nice, but if water ever gets to it the staining is fast and dark. Cedar looks nice varnished but is soft. If used where it may get chafed or banged it won't stand up well. Mahogany is great for varnish and wear. Another choice which is little used but is hard, rot resistant, works well and varnishes nicely is locust. Most all Concordias have some locust, and some have a lot of it. They use it for toerails, coverboards, cockpit combings, handrails and even coach house sides.
BLAH!!! Silicone makes me shudder just to think about it. It was the first effective bedding/caulking, and in its day it was a wonder material. But with today's technology it should be made illegal!
I like polyurethane caulks as well. My favorite is Sikaflex 291. Be careful if you choose Sikaflex, they have recently come out with 292 and it is their competitor for 5200, and it is very tenacious. Anything you might ever want to remove, especially if you can fasten it mechanically does not need the adhesion of 5200 or 292 and is much better if you don't use it.
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Ooooh, very nice! Now you have to explain the name.
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Boat trailers should be right on topic' date=' right?
[/quote']I would think so. And speaking of which I just bought a small utility trailer from Northern Tool that I am setting up to carry my Spindrift 9 in nested mode. They seem to be hard to beat on price for parts or the whole thing. They ship within 5 days to boot.
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??curious as to why the Easypoxy inside rather than AwlGrip??
Our painter at work was scheduled for a spar spraying session. My boss offered to let me sneak my dinghy into the spray bay. I had one shot at this free spray job' date=' and it was going to be white which is my choice for exterior anyway, so I chose the exterior. Awlgrip can be rolled and tipped, but EasyPoxy is easier.
I can't pronounce Hirilonde or even find the key that makes the two dots above the "e".Wing"e" Nert"e" is just going too far!
Hehe, the letter e with an umlaut
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Thanks all. In reply to the paint:
The entire hull is done in 2 coats op West epoxy then sanded out. Then I faired out some spots with West thickened with 406 and 407 and sanded again. Then I applied 5 coats of Awlgrip 545 2 part epoxy primer with a roller and brushed in corners as needed. I did these coats hot and then sanded the entire boat at the end. This final sanding was with a random orbital and 320 grit (hand paper in the corners as needed). The interior green is Petit EasyPoxy jade green mixed 50/50 with white, 2 coats brushed on. The beige interior is Interlux Interdeck premixed non-skid, 2 coats rolled on with a 3" roller. The exterior is Awlgrip 2 part LP sprayed 5 coats.
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Well, for the most part my Spindrift 9N is done. I am waiting on my fender stock to come in to the store at work, and sail and rigging hardware to come in from B and B. Hoping to go for a row this weekend. Now to spend the rest of the off-season getting my Renegade ready to carry this around on deck and go cruising.
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You can look at the thread just under this one for some info on scarfing http://www.messing-about.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5358 .
And you can use the BoardTracker search tool in the upper right hand corner of the page and find several threads with much info on the subject of joining plywood.
Once you have decided how you will proceed you can ask specific questions. There is no shortage of opinions here
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I built a Spindrift 9, hardly the length boat you are doing, but I still had to join the plywood to make longer pieces. Absolutely you want to join the plywood first! The plans (if like the Spindrift plans) mention scarfing and butt joints w/tabs. Like Charlie I find scarfing to be the choice. He shows the pieces laid out glued up (or in the process off). Here are a couple photos of how I made the scarfs: (posted in order, so they go from bottom up) It looks a lot harder than it really is. We have had discussions on using cutting jigs, which might be helpful for thicker ply, but hand power planes, hand planes and belt sanders seem the tools for 1/4" and 3/8". Good luck with your project.
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"A boat is finished when it sinks" That's why none of my boats will ever be finished if I can help it
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at the unveiling.........
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some more...........
CS20 Hull #100 Landmark
in B & B Yachts Forum
Posted
She shook me up to with her labels too! My Spindrift 9 sail came in to day in a bag marked "CS 17 mizzen" :oops: Boy was I relieved when I took the bag across the street to a park lawn to unroll it and saw the S9 logo and my hull number on it 8)