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Posts posted by Hirilonde

  1. I would also make up a slightly smaller radius jig out of MDF and clamp the board to it to take the curve. The board will spring back to some extent when it dries.

    Very good advice. You might be able to muscle the loss in curve back during clamping/gluing, but prebending to a tighter radius is definitely easier.

    since mahogany is brittle and prone to splitting in a tight curve.

    Honduras mahogany sure is, but African is quite stringy. That is why African is so often chosen for planking. Regardless of what species you have all precautions are good ones.

    I will stay out of the hot towel vs steam debate :lol: But keep in mind that if you fail to get the curve on the first try the second one will be much more prone to splits or even breaking. Having everything set up, all your stuff ready and at hand, a helper already present, etc are key. The actual project is not overly difficult, but because you haven't done it before and you know you have such a small time constraint can sure be intimidating.

    Best of luck.

  2. If you are looking for a snug fit to the curve when nested then plans would be dangerous I would think. Even though we are all building our boats from the same plans; because they are not lofted they all come out slightly different. Scribing a pattern to the actual halves while nested is the best method.

    I will be installing waterproof screw type access ports into the sides of my stern quarter seats. So even though I wanted the curved seats I opted to go with straight panel ones.

    My plan, had I chosen to go with curves was to install the cleats according to the dimensions in the plans, then scribe a pattern to fit the shape of the bow section while actually nested. Another good pattern stock is door skin plywood. It is barely 1/8th'" thick, can be cut with tin snips and quite inexpensive. I was going to scribe the door skin to the bow curve, then attach this curved piece to another scribed to the stern section on the cleats using hot glue. By making each fit separately the pattern comes out very accurate. And by gluing them together after makes the overall dimensions accurate.

    Regardless of the methods you use, the overall process is scribe, fit, check, and repeat. The curves look great. Were it not for my pragmatic requirements I would have gladly invested the additional time it takes to make them.

    If you check out Garry's web site you will discover he wanted to maximize the storage space in his. So making them as large as would still fit the bow section nested was a good choice. In my case I want to minimize the tank/seats to maximize open space for people and stuff while transporting to and from my Renegade. That and mine is a 9 vs. 11. Ah, decisions decisions, and we thought Graham figured this all out for us :wink:

  3. When I say 'stand alone' I mean a floor model drill press expressly built for mortising. Some even have indexing tables like a milling machine so that you can set up stops and make the exact same mortise repeatedly. I made end pieces for English garden type furniture for a while and had a set of jigs and used stop settings to repeatedly make the same piece over and again. My father acquired this drill press when he bought out a small woodworking shop. I suspect that today one like it would cost a couple thousand.

    The bench top one is much simpler. It can accept 1/4" thru 3/4" mortising bits. You need to either mark out the ends of the mortice manually or make your own jig that attaches to the bench. It has a sliding fence so that you can center the mortise on varying width material. Or off-center it as required. It has a hold down bar to make extracting the bit from each plunge easier. I use it at work to make doors, usually for cabinets but did make a locust 4 panel foc'sle door to match the other on a Concordia 39 yawl last winter. It saves some serious time when making doors.

    It all comes down to how often you make mortise and tenon joints and your budget.

  4. I bought a bench top morticing drill press for the shop at work. It isn't as good as the much more expensive stand alone type, but with care in use it works quite well. I can take a photo of it and get you more info if you like. I believe it cost a couple hundred dollars.

  5. Thanks for the reply Garry. I will probably go with bolts for the top at first anyway. I made 3 sets of hardware. I had already glued in the 'patches' for a center one as well (well, slightly off center, mine is a sailing version). I may skip installing the 3rd one. I wonder if it adds difficulty in alignment while bobbing around trying to fit the halves together?


  6. Garry,

    How many connector pairs did you use? 3 to replace the bottome 3 bolts? Or just the 2 at the chines?

    I have glued in all the backer patches/reinforcements. And am starting to fabricate the metal pieces.

    I will probably only assemble/disassemble this thing a couple times a year while cruising. I am sure I will opt to tow whenever possible. I bet the 5 bolt system really isn't that hard with practice, and this hardware does add complication and time to the fabrication process. But, they look cool and I'm gonna make 'em :P

  7. What are the actual rules for the "open" class" or whatever it is called that multihulls and mono hulls, paddlers and sailers etc all compete against each other in? The whole things sounds very intriguing, but without care in controlling how this event evolves it could get really silly, although maybe that is part of it.

    I lost interest in sailboat racing quite a while ago. I don't much care for how it has evolved over the years, not that anyone should be concerned with my opinion. But one class of boat sparked anew my interest. Dodson's where I work is a sponsor in a Mini 6.5 that has been campaigning all last season to qualify for the 2007 Mini Transat Race in September. That I have been there for the building of the boat and gotten to know the designer and skipper probably plays a part in my intrigue. http://www.teamacadia.org/ Enough Hijacking......

    From what I have read here it seams like this race is something that would be fun to campaign for such as you are doing Graham, or even just to follow like most of us will be doing. It will be interesting in the least to see what happens this next year and how this event progresses.

  8. Now me, on the other hand, I have moss!

    Green, looks pretty, doesn't need fertilizer or watering? I have some of that stuff too :lol:


    She looks great. Oh, and to answer your question

    but are we ever finished with a boat?

    "A boat isn't finished until she sinks."

    Thats what "they" say anyway. I just know my boats will never be finished! :wink:

  9. Well I know from having built one that the Minipaw sure is light. There is something to say for that for your situation. I think Charlie has proven it can carry 400 lbs, but 500 may be pushing it. A Spindrift will tow better, but they start at 9 feet, and weigh more. If towing will only be an occasional thing then a small pram would be my tendency. Could you leave it on your mooring while out sailing? If towing will happen often I would lean towards something that could plane easily like the Spindrift.

    Seems half the fun of boating is making decisions :wink:

  10. I have only filetted and glassed the joints of 2 dinghies but I have glassed over soft/partially cured filets in both cases. I do a reasonably well shaped filet by using plastic spreaders (sometimes cut to shape with tin snips) and learning to stop shaping when it is fair. Too many passes trying to perfect minor flaws in the shape often ends with removing too much material. Small ridges don't seem to matter when you are going to wet the filet and surrounding area out for the tape with pure resin before is is firmly set anyway.

    Glass tape over wet filets:

    1. saves fairing after

    2. saves having to remove blush

    3. means a primary or chemical bond rather than a secondary mechanical one

    It may not be practical in all cases, but I should do like avoiding sandpaper at any step I can :lol:

  11. Hmm, I guess the humor I intended in my post wasn't as apparent as I had thought it would be. I'm sorry if my post came accross as a rant Greg, is was never meant to. I followed your thread about winter coming and never found it inappropriate. If I had I would have handled it the same way I handle all problems I have with people I see in person, and that is one on one and not in a public arena. Again, I apologize if my attempt at humor came accross as an attack on your thread.

  12. Your design looks ingenius Gary. I am definately considering it for my Spindrift 9 N. I will be using mine as a tender to a 27 foot cruising boat and will very likely be putting it together and taking it apart a lot. My cruising range will be Long Island Sound to Maine, and towing may often not be a good idea.

    It is hard to tell from the photos exactly how you added layers to the bottoms and nesting bulkheads to reinforce for you hardware and add the needed thichness for your mortices. And did you add an entire layer to the forward nesting bulkhead? Any description of what you did and where in the process of building it occured would be appreciated. I will be opening my butterfly and wiring the hull tomorrow.

    And thanks Joe for bringing this up.

  13. For what kind of saw? :?

    I cut most of the plywood with a Bosch jig saw. I find that even though there are many brands of blades made to fit my saw, and some are quite good; Bosch makes the best ones. I like 12 teeth per inch all purpose wood blades for most any cutting of boat parts.

  14. Sure hope he doesn't mess up your beautiful work.

    Heehee, thanks. He is the only person I know who filled dings, faired, epoxy primed and 2-part linear polyurethaned an entire 18' catboat using roll and tip method, then wet sanded, compounded and buffed the job till it looked like it was sprayed. He will do a great job finishing it.

    Will your customer post a picture of the final?

    I made him promise to bring it back to the yard for final photos including one being rowed before I let him take it home.


  15. Well, its time to turn it over to the owner. I've had a lot of fun building her, and it hurts to not take it through the final pretty up stages after all the effort expended. But, it is the deal I made with him, and it means I can start on mine now :D

    Some time in the spring my friend will be bringing her back all painted and ready to row for final pictures. I'll just have to wait till then to see the final results.



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