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Hirilonde

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Posts posted by Hirilonde

  1. I guess Jeff is hooked on building boats. Soon he will have his own fleet! Looks good Jeff and your family seems to think so too.

    Life must be good for you. Nice new boat' date=' complete with a great looking crew.[/quote']

    Boat building and sailing as one's hobbies and a family that shares in them? That's an understatement Mike :wink:

  2. If somebody has glued them with epoxy or other glue' date=' all bets are off.[/quote']

    All people who epoxy bungs in should be hanged, drawn and quartered! Nothing on a boat is permanent, everything needs to be repaired or replaced some day. I use either old varnish or air thickened shellac. It seals the bung in, ads a little adhesive and yet it is still reasonably easy to remove.

    I made a small tool for removing bungs. It is like a 3/16" chisel only the stock is much thicker and the edge is a much greater angle. I made it out of a scrap piece of tool steel and a small piece of teak for a handle. I can dig bungs out while not damaging the hole. So I can just put a new one in after refastening the piece.

    I just finished fabricating and installing new toe rails on a 20' skipjack at work. I like to precoat these before installation. The owner has been maintaining the boat with CPES as a primer and Bristol Finish over it. So that is what I put on the new toe rails. He loves the stuff. I am not sure yet what I think. Our varnishers will be putting a few more coats on now that it is installed and the screw holes bunged.

    A word of warning to all who consider Bristol Finish: The health hazards mentioned in the instructions are an understatement. The catalyst contains isocyanates, and this stuff is deadly.

  3. I built my rudder, installed the pintles on it and then used it to lay out the gudgeons on the transom. If you aren't ready to build your rudder then just make a cardboard mock up to get the spacing and locations. In general though, the top gudgeon is an inch or so down from the top of the transom and the bottom one is about 2 inches up from the keel.

  4. I finally got the weather to go for a row. Good thing I went today, supposed to start snowing tonight :(

    To make it a good shakedown I launched the 2 halves and assembled them in the water. I thought that Garry's nesting hardware was good when I did it on dry land. It is even better in the water. From the time I stepped off the dock into the aft section, through pulling the fore section to me and joining the lower brackets, through installing the 2 bolts and wing nuts and then setting the 2 removable seats in place took at least a minute. And I shipped no water in the process either. You'd almost think I knew what I was doing :wink: The hours it took making and installing the brackets has paid off. Thanks again Garry, a well thought out design.

    A few pics of me rowing.........

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  5. Oak can look nice, but if water ever gets to it the staining is fast and dark. Cedar looks nice varnished but is soft. If used where it may get chafed or banged it won't stand up well. Mahogany is great for varnish and wear. Another choice which is little used but is hard, rot resistant, works well and varnishes nicely is locust. Most all Concordias have some locust, and some have a lot of it. They use it for toerails, coverboards, cockpit combings, handrails and even coach house sides.

    BLAH!!! Silicone makes me shudder just to think about it. It was the first effective bedding/caulking, and in its day it was a wonder material. But with today's technology it should be made illegal!

    I like polyurethane caulks as well. My favorite is Sikaflex 291. Be careful if you choose Sikaflex, they have recently come out with 292 and it is their competitor for 5200, and it is very tenacious. Anything you might ever want to remove, especially if you can fasten it mechanically does not need the adhesion of 5200 or 292 and is much better if you don't use it.

  6. Boat trailers should be right on topic' date=' right? :)[/quote']

    I would think so. And speaking of which I just bought a small utility trailer from Northern Tool that I am setting up to carry my Spindrift 9 in nested mode. They seem to be hard to beat on price for parts or the whole thing. They ship within 5 days to boot.

  7. ??curious as to why the Easypoxy inside rather than AwlGrip??

    Our painter at work was scheduled for a spar spraying session. My boss offered to let me sneak my dinghy into the spray bay. I had one shot at this free spray job' date=' and it was going to be white which is my choice for exterior anyway, so I chose the exterior. Awlgrip can be rolled and tipped, but EasyPoxy is easier.

    I can't pronounce Hirilonde or even find the key that makes the two dots above the "e".

    Wing"e" Nert"e" is just going too far!

    Hehe, the letter e with an umlaut

  8. Thanks all. In reply to the paint:

    The entire hull is done in 2 coats op West epoxy then sanded out. Then I faired out some spots with West thickened with 406 and 407 and sanded again. Then I applied 5 coats of Awlgrip 545 2 part epoxy primer with a roller and brushed in corners as needed. I did these coats hot and then sanded the entire boat at the end. This final sanding was with a random orbital and 320 grit (hand paper in the corners as needed). The interior green is Petit EasyPoxy jade green mixed 50/50 with white, 2 coats brushed on. The beige interior is Interlux Interdeck premixed non-skid, 2 coats rolled on with a 3" roller. The exterior is Awlgrip 2 part LP sprayed 5 coats.

  9. Well, for the most part my Spindrift 9N is done. I am waiting on my fender stock to come in to the store at work, and sail and rigging hardware to come in from B and B. Hoping to go for a row this weekend. Now to spend the rest of the off-season getting my Renegade ready to carry this around on deck and go cruising.

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  10. I built a Spindrift 9, hardly the length boat you are doing, but I still had to join the plywood to make longer pieces. Absolutely you want to join the plywood first! The plans (if like the Spindrift plans) mention scarfing and butt joints w/tabs. Like Charlie I find scarfing to be the choice. He shows the pieces laid out glued up (or in the process off). Here are a couple photos of how I made the scarfs: (posted in order, so they go from bottom up) It looks a lot harder than it really is. We have had discussions on using cutting jigs, which might be helpful for thicker ply, but hand power planes, hand planes and belt sanders seem the tools for 1/4" and 3/8". Good luck with your project.

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  11. Last fall a friend of mine, on behalf of his son asked if I would mentor his 8th grade class project. Henry is a great kid, and he wanted to build a boat, I'm sure you can all understand how hard this question was to answer :wink:

    We got together and Henry showed me a drawing of the boat he wanted to build. It seems this was no ordinary toy boat. It had to be radio controlled and of sufficient size and stability to land a helicopter on. He knew the basic size and shape he wanted, but had no ideas as such about the details for laying out and constructing the hull. That was where I was to come in.

    We talked for a bit about the numerous construction methods for building a wooden hull. One suggestion I made was to take the plans for a Spindrift 9 and simply divide all the measurements on the panel lay out pages by 3. Henry liked this idea except that he would loose his raised forward bulwark; a detail that was very important to him. So we figured out how to incorporate this detail while still using Graham's lay out drawings.

    6 mm plywood was going to be way too stiff to bend for a 1/3 scale boat that is hard to bend to in the first place. So Henry agreed that door skin plywood would be fine. He was going to paint anyway, so looks wasn't important. The boat would be sealed completely in epoxy and live on a shelf in his room most of the time anyway.

    Well, after 60 or so hours of construction and painting time Henry unveiled his ship "Bores" in front of a gathering of hundreds (well, ok, a lot anyway). Parents, relatives teachers and mentors all gathered to see the many projects of this class of creative kids, not the least of which was Henry.

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  12. After I had my laminated gunwales dry fit/clamped in place I drilled out countersink and clearance holes from the outside at both the bow and stern where they overlapped the breast plate and stern quarter knees (3 #8 x 1 1/4" screws each end). I then drilled pilot holes through the plywood into the plate and knees and test fitted the screws. When I was happy with how it all looked I scribed along the gunwales the entire length to show where I wanted the gunwales to be during glue up. I then removed everything, slathered my epoxy with cabosil on both sides of every meeting pair and put it all back together. I did end up wearing some of the epoxy, but it all layed out just how I wanted/expected it to. I finished by bunging the screw holes. Because the ends were screwed and not clamped while the epoxy set I was able to control how tight they were, which was snug and not totally squashed. The added fastening can't hurt either, laminations usually come apart from the ends.

  13. First of all, many of the trepidations you may have will very likely eleviate themselves as you gain confidence from this forum and your success as you go along. There is a wealth of information here and it is freely shared. The details of the plans Graham creates and the fact that he builds them himself as well is no small step towards your success.

    I leave for work in a minute so I can't get into a complicated comment on gunwales. Unlike regular dinghys where a sprung solid one will maintain its shape the nesting dinghy will have its shape altered when cut in half if it isn't laminated. But don't let the gunwale details stop you from starting, there is plenty of time to discuss them before you get to that point.

    Enjoy the process, its fun!

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