Hirilonde
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Posts posted by Hirilonde
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I built in Garry's nesting hardware from the get go. I am extremely pleased with it. I'm sure the simple bolt method Graham designed into his boats works fine, and is certainly simpler to build. But I can't imagine it is as easy or dry to use, at least compared to Garry's hardware. As to any form of assembly on deck or even on a broad expanse of land with a pair of saw horses handy: I can't imagine anything easier than in the water. Yes, I have tried on land, and I choose the water even when launching from a dock. Aligning the pieces to hold the halves together snugly, yet still slip together and apart is tricky, but I find it well worth the extra 8-10 hours of built time.
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Is the reasoning behind wire ties over wire here to avoid tear out in the thin plywood?
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I built and still own a Spindrift 9N (nesting version). It is exactly what I was looking for in a tender to my Renegade.
1. Like Charlie says, there is a demand for all 4 lengths, I'm glad Graham offered the 9, as even 1 foot less than the 10 you are considering mattered to me.
2. Yes they can plane. But depending on the weight of the crew aboard it may take a bit of breeze. At 180 lbs. it takes a pretty fair breeze with me aboard. It also sails very well in a light breeze. Move your crew weight forward until the transom just clears the water and it is quite amazing how fast a few knots of wind will move her.
3. Yes, you can just call Carla at the number shown on their site to order plans, sails, hardware, epoxy and probably complete kits very soon. The plans come with complete specs to have your own sail made and to purchase all hardware from any source you choose. You aren't going to do much better if any buying these somewhere else. I suggest you save a lot of hassle and just order everything from Carla.
4. I think B & B has their sails made in China. Carla tries to keep some in stock, but you may want to order the sail with your plans if you are going to start building right away and want to sail shortly after. I am very pleased with my sail.
We might seem a bit biased toward B & B designs here in the forum, but it is with good reason.
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Garry, what do you perceive is the advantage of using cable ties?
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I actively participate in 2 boat related forums and one Tolkien mythology related. I really like the people in all 3 but one of the primary reasons I continue in them is the relentless nature of the administrators. Thanks again Frank.
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I agree with all of the above for starters. Another reason why okoume plywood is more expensive is that all of it is imported. For whatever reason, high quality plywood for marine use isn't built in the USA. You can read into that what you will. Okoume comes not only in metric thicknesses, 3mm, 4mm, 6mm, 9mm, 12mm etc., but most of it now comes in metric width and length. The metric sheets are slightly larger in both directions than SAE sheets. I just built new storage shelves at work for plywood and had to accommodate.
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Epoxy heats itself up more and faster when:
1. the temperature is high (the components are warm)
2. it is in a container where the volume has all 3 dimensions significant (like a cup, vs. a pan where it spreads out)
3. a fast cure is used
Things you can do to slow the heating down:
1. chill the ingredients or work space (I have actually stored the 2 components on ice in a cooler)
2. use a wide shallow container for mixing (the height dimension is significantly reduced)
3. pour it onto you work right away and then spread it out (if this is practical)
4. use the slow cure (if there is a choice with your brand)
Any one or more of these can extend pot life or working time. Planning also helps use the stuff up before it kicks. Get everything ready to go before you mix. Like the old plasterer' joke: "Don't mix the plaster till you get to the top of the ladder.
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I definitely agree with Garry on this one, not that you have to. It seems to me that you are looking for a daysailer to use when getting to your Weekender isn't practical? There are so many nice light weight, easy to build proven designs out there that might fit your needs/wants.
Every one has their own way of making decisions. In a case like this I would sit down and make a list of all the characteristics I would like in a boat. By doing this, without even considering what is out there, you will come up with a practical list of important things to you that aren't so tainted by your preconceptions. Now take this list and research designs till you find the one that best meets your criterion. You might be surprised with your decision in the end, and very likely pleasantly so.
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That interlocking edge is going to make even the most experienced builder consider the kit over just plans. My best to you Graham in getting the various kits programmed and running.
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Looks like a very workable solution Steve, I like it. I was more interested in the flotation and reduction in water left in the hull after righting that side tanks provide, but seats are probably all one can achieve with the nesting version. Thanks for the pics.
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Pretty, roomy and pocket cruiser seldom all describe the same boat. You might just have one of the few there. I look forward to future posts and pictures, model and the real thing.
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I haven't installed any bailers yet in my S9N, but I have gone through the assembly routine several times. I would be very leary of anything that might make this process more tedious or reduced its integrity when assembled. I will be doing 2 bailers. I used Garry's assembly hardware, and having no leaks before, during or after assembly of the halves is quite pleasant.
Now if someone can design a nesting dinghy with side seats/tanks, that would really be something
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In some parts of the world they call it "patina"
I have found that many minor blemishes can be fixed very simply by the generous use of this word. ;D
On a serious note, if the blemish is cosmetic then your remedy is a matter of choice. Varnish over it and call it patina, or paint it over.
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The hole technique works well in many applications. As a kid we used a dishpan to hold the spinnaker ready for launching in our Blue Jay. Three slits were made in the sides of the dishpan, ending at a drill hole to keep them from expanding, for the 3 corners of the chute. Not sure this helps you with your quandary Garry, but the technique works well for many applications, and I don't doubt it would help for butterfly slit terminations.
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Your family is forcing you to build more boats? Oh - The horror! Grin
My wife thinks I should finish the downstairs of the addition I built 15 years ago. I thought I had it bad, your family expects boats!!!
She looks great Scott!
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Teak is also pretty expensive' date=' probably double the price of mahogany here in California.[/quote']
Whole sale price for Teak is about triple that of African Mahogany in the Northeast. But for exterior brightwork Teak is hard to match in standing up to the elements then still looking good.
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A recent craze seems to be erecting a template' date=' then scribe-fitting individual pieces of doorskin to the curve and gluing them to the template with hot-melt glue. Gluing your ticking sticks to your template, as it were. Even at only 7 bucks a sheet for doorskin, that would get old, quick around my place, as the waste isn't even safe to burn for heating.[/quote']
I don't know about this being a recent craze, 'cause I have been doing something similar for years. And for complicated patterns I find it the most accurate method. I don't erect a template first, I simply create a pattern with the pieces in place. Add to this that when a piece is going into tight quarters, or if it is quite large, one can determine if the piece will actually get there from here or whether it is a blivit before making it. I'll gladly waste the $7 worth of doorskin, which makes numerous patterns and proves whether the finished piece will actually fit into the boat before cutting the expensive okume, teak veneer, cabin sole or other very expensive plywood.
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Looks like Honduras mahogany from what I can see of the grain. The color seems a bit brown, but that could be my monitor.
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If a really clean edge is needed, then as said above cut large and dress down with a block plane. Another option that can help is a saber saw blade that cuts on the down stroke. Bosch makes a very nice one. You will still get some splintering on the bottom, but it works well for finish work where only the one side is going to be visible. And it takes some getting used to, your saw now wants to jump off the wood.
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It kind of worries me every time I carefully fold and bag the sails because I've been taught to just stuff my tent (and other fabric gear) at random into its bag (rather than fold it) to avoid working the same creases over and over thereby weakening the fabric.
We must have learned our camping/backpacking skills from the same school of thought. The problem with doing it for sails is that they stay wrinkled, and thus don't hold quite as true a shape, especially in light air.
If you flake sails (accordion folds), the folds are never really creased hard. Your tent or sleeping bag get lashed or stuffed into tight spots. Your sail is usually set some where. I think there is still some impact on the material by flaking sails, but the amount is almost neglidgable, and sail shape is a big part of our hobby, and must be preserved.
Now rolling may be the best of both worlds!
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I have always used mild soap (dish soap) and water. The blush seems very oily, and I was taught to use soap. But lots of people say plain water is all it takes. Old habits are hard to break, especially when they have worked well.
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When cutting taffrails, bulwark caprails and other curved pieces from wide stock, these hidden stresses Par speaks of play a major role in lay-out and cutting. There isn't much one can do to anticipate stress relief bends and twists when fabricating masts except looking for the truest grain pieces.
When I lay out a curved piece on a wide board I make a pattern and locate the shape on the board with a margin of wood all around it. Next I cut out the shape on the band saw still leaving a margin around the shape. This will relieve some stresses and thus the board will distort to the shape it wants to be. But my piece of wood is still large enough to make my piece. I then sand/erase the marked shape and lay it out again with my pattern. Usually the one stress relief cutting step is enough, but some situations warrant 2 such steps before making the final accurate cuts.
Sorry if this is a little off-topic, but it seemed related.
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We use the dual pump at work.
Its a bit pricey for the home shop.
Repetition is one of the greatest causes for losing focus. I like (need) idiot-proof.
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I use a square knot and let the ends dangle on my S9's sail. My Renegade has velcro flaps.
Most sails don't flake properly with the battens in for the very reason you noticed. But if you can get them all to lay flat within folds, then leave 'em in.
Sample wood..Teak?
in B & B Yachts Forum
Posted
http://www2.fpl.fs.fed.us/TechSheets/Chudnoff/TropAmerican/html_files/swiete1new.html
I don't think I would want to plank with it (little resistance attack by marine borers), but for trim it would seem ok. The description says it is used for carving and turning, so it must work well with tools.