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Posts posted by Hirilonde

  1. No idea when my next boat is, but I'm gunna try that next time. When I think of all the blood I shed carefully untwisting the wires to get a good lead to hit with the torch when I could have just cut them and zapped em...... Great idea Charlie! Sometimes things are so simple we overlook them in favor of what has always been done.

  2. Buying them from someone else wouldn't be right would it? I thought 1 set of plans 1 boat. At least that's how I understood it. Guess I'll just wait and hear from them when they get to it' date=' weathers not that great right now any way.[/quote']

    I certainly agree that the designer deserves a royalty for every boat built. If the design is so clever, practical, beautiful or what-ever that it sells so many sets of plans that all design efforts are off-set and continues to sell, then good for him/her. I would give a reasonable time for responding. But if he/she is now neglecting to even respond at all to requests for plans then I would feel no guilt acquiring them elsewhere.

  3. I couldn't decide if I was excited to cut mine in half or horrified.

    She looks good! You must have done something right, she nests just fine :wink:

    Now its time to come up with some clever answers for when people ask why you cut it in half. Here are a couple I used:

    "She wouldn't fit easily in the shop for the rest of the work so I cut her into workable size pieces."

    "I didn't like how she came out, so I am cutting her up to fit in the dumpster."

    When I made the cleats for my center seat I found they interfered with nesting. I had to cut a notch in each of them in the aft section shaped to fit the aft portion of the forward half. Has anyone else encountered this?

  4. Awlgrip makes a "varnish" (it is some kind of plastic based clear coat, like urethanes or polyurethanes) that is designed specifically for fast build up. It is not a 2 or 3 part material like their paints. You can do 2 or 3 coats a day depending on temp and humidity. It builds up quite fast, chemical bonds to itself very well and is a good way to level out raw wood fast. It does not however have any UV protection. This means you have to decide how many coats of "good" stuff you will finish off with. I think it has its place when baring your wood or you have new wood.

  5. From one of our previous threads the discussion led to the conclusion, at least by a couple of us, that nesting dinghies should have a double or hyphenated name. Not to imply that anyone has to agree or do the same but in that light I have been researching ideas for my Spindrift 9 N.

    As some of you may know from reading my intro post I am a JRR Tolkien fan of epic proportions. My Renegade and my forum name is a Quenya or high elvish word. That is to say it is from a language created from scratch strictly for the fantasy stories Tolkien created. Hirilond

  6. You have to manually open them when underway and close them before you stop.

    You don't have to close it as you slow down or stop. There is a flap door that keeps water from coming in during times that it isn't actually bailing. This flap may not be 100% leak free, but works well enough to leave it open while towing. The only reason you wouldn't leave it open all the time while sailing is the extra drag.

  7. Looks like she sails just fine. Hopefully your action shots will help motivate me for the home stretch :lol:

    I ordered my sail from Carla just recently and I'm in the sand and fair phase. If all goes well I will have to consult Jeff's cold weather thread and get out my Mustang float coat as I should be done a little early for the season up here.

  8. Charlie is talking about a feathered tenon. The "feather is an oval or rectangular piece that fits into 2 mortises, one in each piece of wood being joined. I have been talking about blind or through tenons which are part of one of the 2 pieces. The tenon can be cut into the piece in several ways from the one pass tenoning machine or many passes on a table saw and numerous ways in between.

    Mortise and tenon joints can be pinned, wedged, glued or combinations of. The windows and doors of long ago were usually blind tenon joints ( the tenon does not break through the mortised piece) and were pinned to allow for expansions and contractions without damaging the joint. Pinned joints are much stronger in the direction of shearing the tenon rather than pulling it out.

    Door and window joints were oriented to counter the direction of greatest stress. An example of this is the bottom rail of a double hung window tenons into the stile as it is pulled down and would otherwise pull the joint apart. Most people misname rails and stiles as being: rails horizontal and stiles vertical when in fact they are named for which component of the joint they contain: rail is tenoned and stile is mortised. In most cases rails are horizontal and stiles vertical as this orientation is usually more sound, hence why many think the direction is the definition.

    In very stable woods like teak, or in cases where the product will be very well sealed against moisture the joints can be done in either direction and glued. As little expansion or contraction will ever occur the joints are safe from damage due to grain in opposite directions working against each other.

  9. There are lots of techniques for staying warm while in the boat. Some good ones are mentioned already. But if you go over in an open boat how do you stay warm? A wet suit, dry suit or the like is all that works. Every frostbite series I know of requires a wet suit at the least. Water temperatures in Narragansett Bay in April are likely still below 50 deg. F.

    Reef early, don't venture far and don't go out or come in early in anything approaching heavy air if you do go. A capsize in summer is usually a nuisance at worst. In winter it is a completely different scenario.

  10. OK, fine, Garry proved it works a long time ago. And Vinegar Joe proved it again some time later. But today, even I succeeded in making it work! Thanks again Garry for access to your drawings and the on-line advice. I am very pleased with how it came out and look forward to launching this spring to try it in the water.

    I would like to fill/fair over the hardware. I am considering using West epoxy with 404 filler (a thicker version of the mix I used to bed it with). Then maybe put one layer of glass tape over it to reduce the chances of stress on the hardware cracking the filler. Any ideas on this or other suggestions would be appreciated.

    Speaking of launching; my friend at work whom I built the Minipaw for posed an interesting question. He wants to know if I will be having 2 launching parties: one for each half. What is the correct protocol here? And this question got me thinking (I know it is dangerous to do so, but sometimes I can't help it). Does each half need its own name? I am thinking of using a hyphenated name where each part goes with one half. Any help in this regards is appreciated as well. :wink:



  11. The description of it sounds way too good to be true, which very often means it is. If it is in fact what it says it is, then it shouldn't be long before everyone is raving about it. I think I will wait to hear from other than the manufacture proclaiming its attributes. But if in fact it turns out it does what it claims, I will be using it.

  12. Just another option for your consideration Joe......

    In the days of wooden boats hardware was very expensive as it was all hand made. Many doors, hatches covers etc were held closed with a simple wooden butterfly latch. It consists of a wooden piece, sometimes rectangular, or sometimes a more embellished shape and a screw in the middle of it that allowed it to pivot but was tight enough to hold it in the direction it was set in (engaged or open). If the adjoining surface to the door etc was not flush with it; some form of build up was made to attach the butterfly to.

    It would appear that your hatch uses no hinge, so 2 of these, one on each of opposite sides would be needed. With a hinge only one would be needed.


  13. Dudley Dix already sells plans for Minis made out of plywood http://dixdesign.com/oneill.htm

    They are quite a build, but will probably never compete with the carbon/foam sandwich construction of the protos like Acadia http://www.teamacadia.org/ which had its hull built and Maine and the rest of work done in Stonington under the guidance of the designer Rod Johnstone of J Boats fame.

    Minis are quite an exciting class, but I'll stop here is this thread is about Grahams new design.


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