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Hirilonde

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Posts posted by Hirilonde

  1. With Awlgrip, get a ding or scratch and at the very least you need the whole side of the boat recoated.  Once abraded with sandpaper, you can't get the gloss back.  The gloss is formed by resins rising to the surface as cured.

    Ray,

    Your assessment of why repairs are so difficult is accurate, but it can be repaired.  Our painters here at the boatyard do repair paint jobs, but the job is tedious and time consuming.

    They mask of the scratched area and sand and wet sand the scratches out.  If this means wearing through to the primer they then spray the area again.  Then wet sand again lightly over-lapping on to adjacent surface.  They then enlarge the masked area and spray with clear.  At this point the center of the repair matches but over spray around it is hazy.  This over spray is compounded out and the repair blends into the rest of that surface.

    What I don't like about Awlgrip are the isocyanates.  It is one of, if not the most deadly chemicals in a boatyard. Even though our painters use supplied air and suits, we have a special spray bay complete with filtered exhaust fan, spray sessions are announced to all, etc., the fumes are present and I'm sure small doses are inhaled by others.

    Ray,  how well does the System 3 stand up over the long haul?  I like shiny, but semi-gloss that lasts a long time, that is easy to repair and safe to use sure sounds appealing.

  2. Nothing will stick to UHMW plastics well or for a prolonged period.  That is why they work well as bushing material.  That they are so resilient is why they work well as a chafe strip.  I'm not sure any bedding will keep water from getting between the strip and your keel.  It may work to use a material that will stick to the paint of your keel and solidify enough to create a gasket which will protect your keel from having its paint removed by your chafe strip.  I would think you would still get some algae growth behind the chafe strip if the boat stayed in the water for a prolonged period.  I would try 3M 101 or Sikaflex 291.  Both will stick well to paint and form an elastic gasket that will offer some protection.

  3. The stuff is water-proof, and it is quite strong.  I have used it for building outdoor furniture and gluing exterior house and deck trim (which is also screwed or nailed) to help maintain a tight joint.  It worked quite well for both.  I have even seen it used to glue leather work boots and stand up for quite a while.  I still think I would choose epoxy over it for any boat application.  Glue manufacturers will have to come up with something quite revolutionary for me to choose anything over epoxy, and they will have to prove its worth first as well.

  4. so anything that displaces 1 cubic foot of water will produce 65lb of buoyancy.

    Don't mean to seem critical but...  Anything that replaces 1 cubic foot of water will produce 65 lbs.  minus its weight in bouyancy :P  The rest of the calculations are correct.

    1 gal = 231 cu/in.

    1gal water weighs 8.8 lbs (salt water is less, but negligible)

    1 cu/ft. = 1728 cu/in.

    1 cu/ft = 7.48 gal

    Styrofoam brand foam is really only affected by ultraviolet or being physically damaged.  If it is kept in the dark it will last almost indefinitely.  You may want to do some research on the brand you used to see what protection it needs.  If you do choose to seal it up keep in mind that if you don't totally water-proof the foam compartment you may be creating a space that will grow mold.  I suggest either a completely water-proof compartment or an open one that can breath.

  5. When an outboard is on a transom bracket it is kind of like being on a see-saw. In choppy seas the outboard can be lifted quite high. So even if it doesn't seem needed during light/no air weather a long shaft stays in the water better in waves. You won't regret your decision.

  6. I mis-numbered your plan Wes.

    She shook me up to with her labels too! My Spindrift 9 sail came in to day in a bag marked "CS 17 mizzen" :oops: Boy was I relieved when I took the bag across the street to a park lawn to unroll it and saw the S9 logo and my hull number on it 8)

  7. The prices paid for boats is a confusing issue. I have known beautiful well crafted boats to never illicit bids any where near what they were worth. I have known garbage scows to sell for far more than they were ever worth. The only known facts about boat values are:

    1. no matter what you pay to buy a boat you will spend more on it soon after

    2. no matter how much you spend on your boat you will never get it back selling it

    3. you can always buy a boat but you can't always sell the one you have when you want to

  8. On my Renegade I have a 10 amp - 2 battery smart charger hooked up to an outlet that is switched/breaker protected as part of my shore power system (the rest of my system is another outlet on a separate breaker switch). It does exactly as Frank mentions. 2 singles or 1 double? I don't think it matters.

  9. what I am doing is sealing the seam between the fir stringers and the merenti side pannels on My vacationer.

    This gives me the impression that it is mostly cosmetic? If so then you aren't fastening in any capacity, so 5200 isn't needed at all. If I don't need a chemical fastening then I don't want a goop that will be that difficult to remove when the time comes to redo or repair. I would use a mildly adhesive bedding like 3M 101, BoatLife Lifecaulk or my favorite Sikaflex 291. Or maybe even that tube of 3M 400, but I have no experience with the product.

  10. They are entirely different products. The word marine is about all they have in common.

    5200 is a tenacious polyurethane adhesive. I only use it for applications where I can virtually guarantee that I will never try to take "it" apart.

    4000 is a cosmetic sealant. It has mild adhesive properties. The description the 3M gives for it makes it seem like an interior material or maybe for caulking after the fact when your bedding has failed. It is not a polyurethane but 3M doesn't seem to really say what it is.

    4200 is a polyurethane adhesive with a bonding strength of about half that of 5200.

    There are many "boat caulks". Some of them are quite good, and when the specific product most suitable for any given application is used the results meet the specs required. What one really needs to do is define the requirements of the situation first, then choose the appropriate product. Is the goop expected to be the primary fastener? Is it just to waterproof a mechanically fastened joint? Is it something else?

  11. I guess Jeff is hooked on building boats. Soon he will have his own fleet! Looks good Jeff and your family seems to think so too.

    Life must be good for you. Nice new boat' date=' complete with a great looking crew.[/quote']

    Boat building and sailing as one's hobbies and a family that shares in them? That's an understatement Mike :wink:

  12. If somebody has glued them with epoxy or other glue' date=' all bets are off.[/quote']

    All people who epoxy bungs in should be hanged, drawn and quartered! Nothing on a boat is permanent, everything needs to be repaired or replaced some day. I use either old varnish or air thickened shellac. It seals the bung in, ads a little adhesive and yet it is still reasonably easy to remove.

    I made a small tool for removing bungs. It is like a 3/16" chisel only the stock is much thicker and the edge is a much greater angle. I made it out of a scrap piece of tool steel and a small piece of teak for a handle. I can dig bungs out while not damaging the hole. So I can just put a new one in after refastening the piece.

    I just finished fabricating and installing new toe rails on a 20' skipjack at work. I like to precoat these before installation. The owner has been maintaining the boat with CPES as a primer and Bristol Finish over it. So that is what I put on the new toe rails. He loves the stuff. I am not sure yet what I think. Our varnishers will be putting a few more coats on now that it is installed and the screw holes bunged.

    A word of warning to all who consider Bristol Finish: The health hazards mentioned in the instructions are an understatement. The catalyst contains isocyanates, and this stuff is deadly.

  13. I built my rudder, installed the pintles on it and then used it to lay out the gudgeons on the transom. If you aren't ready to build your rudder then just make a cardboard mock up to get the spacing and locations. In general though, the top gudgeon is an inch or so down from the top of the transom and the bottom one is about 2 inches up from the keel.

  14. I finally got the weather to go for a row. Good thing I went today, supposed to start snowing tonight :(

    To make it a good shakedown I launched the 2 halves and assembled them in the water. I thought that Garry's nesting hardware was good when I did it on dry land. It is even better in the water. From the time I stepped off the dock into the aft section, through pulling the fore section to me and joining the lower brackets, through installing the 2 bolts and wing nuts and then setting the 2 removable seats in place took at least a minute. And I shipped no water in the process either. You'd almost think I knew what I was doing :wink: The hours it took making and installing the brackets has paid off. Thanks again Garry, a well thought out design.

    A few pics of me rowing.........

    post-1086-129497657084_thumb.jpg

    post-1086-129497657107_thumb.jpg

  15. Oak can look nice, but if water ever gets to it the staining is fast and dark. Cedar looks nice varnished but is soft. If used where it may get chafed or banged it won't stand up well. Mahogany is great for varnish and wear. Another choice which is little used but is hard, rot resistant, works well and varnishes nicely is locust. Most all Concordias have some locust, and some have a lot of it. They use it for toerails, coverboards, cockpit combings, handrails and even coach house sides.

    BLAH!!! Silicone makes me shudder just to think about it. It was the first effective bedding/caulking, and in its day it was a wonder material. But with today's technology it should be made illegal!

    I like polyurethane caulks as well. My favorite is Sikaflex 291. Be careful if you choose Sikaflex, they have recently come out with 292 and it is their competitor for 5200, and it is very tenacious. Anything you might ever want to remove, especially if you can fasten it mechanically does not need the adhesion of 5200 or 292 and is much better if you don't use it.

  16. Boat trailers should be right on topic' date=' right? :)[/quote']

    I would think so. And speaking of which I just bought a small utility trailer from Northern Tool that I am setting up to carry my Spindrift 9 in nested mode. They seem to be hard to beat on price for parts or the whole thing. They ship within 5 days to boot.

  17. ??curious as to why the Easypoxy inside rather than AwlGrip??

    Our painter at work was scheduled for a spar spraying session. My boss offered to let me sneak my dinghy into the spray bay. I had one shot at this free spray job' date=' and it was going to be white which is my choice for exterior anyway, so I chose the exterior. Awlgrip can be rolled and tipped, but EasyPoxy is easier.

    I can't pronounce Hirilonde or even find the key that makes the two dots above the "e".

    Wing"e" Nert"e" is just going too far!

    Hehe, the letter e with an umlaut

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