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Posts posted by Hirilonde

  1. It kind of worries me every time I carefully fold and bag the sails because I've been taught to just stuff my tent (and other fabric gear) at random into its bag (rather than fold it) to avoid working the same creases over and over thereby weakening the fabric.

    We must have learned our camping/backpacking skills from the same school of thought.  The problem with doing it for sails is that they stay wrinkled, and thus don't hold quite as true a shape, especially in light air.

    If you flake sails (accordion folds), the folds are never really creased hard.  Your tent or sleeping bag get lashed or stuffed into tight spots.  Your sail is usually set some where.  I think there is still some impact on the material by flaking sails, but the amount is almost neglidgable, and sail shape is a big part of our hobby, and must be preserved.

    Now rolling may be the best of both worlds!

  2. When cutting taffrails, bulwark caprails and other curved pieces from wide stock, these hidden stresses Par speaks of play a major role in lay-out and cutting.  There isn't much one can do to anticipate stress relief bends and twists when fabricating masts except looking for the truest grain pieces.

    When I lay out a curved piece on a wide board I make a pattern and locate the shape on the board with a margin of wood all around it.  Next I cut out the shape on the band saw still leaving a margin around the shape.  This will relieve some stresses and thus the board will distort to the shape it wants to be.  But my piece of wood  is still large enough to make my piece.  I then sand/erase the marked shape and lay it out again with my pattern.  Usually the one stress relief cutting step is enough, but some situations warrant 2 such steps before making the final accurate cuts. 

    Sorry if this is a little off-topic, but it seemed related. 

  3. It is some hard and dense wood.  At least I am told it is wood.  I have a theory that it is really stone being passed off as wood. 

    I think it has a place on boats.  But keep in mind that it is really heavy.  I have only fastened through into into other woods.  I would think it has a tendency to split when screwed into if you didn't already snap the screw in the process.  Slightly over-sized pilot holes might be in order. 

    well known for its ability to dull cutting edges.

    The above is mildly put (see my first paragraph).

    Keel battens! 

  4. Scott,

    I do not know what those are.  Where do you get them?



    The most popular brand of UHMW plastic is King Starboard.  Hear is a web site I found just now.  http://www.buckwoodcraft.com/king_starboard.htm  Its really expensive stuff, but does have some great applications.  Don't believe a lot of the hype the manufacturer or distributors give out.  It is not "the marine lumber" as Kellogg Marine Supply touts it.  I can see where strips of it rounded over on all exposed corners might work really well as skids for trailer bunkers.  You won't get a cushioning like carpet etc., but it sure is slick and resilient.

  5. Looking great Howard!  I really like traditional colors combined with bright details.

    Locust is a great choice tor trim and details.  Abeking and Rasmussen used it a lot, and all of the Concordias have at least some.  Some have a lot.  We save chunks of it at work just for making cleats (the hardware) and such.

  6. When the wind dies you could drop him off anywhere.

    The site I linked above doesn't go into much detail, but the "sandbaggers" did just that.  There were no rules at that time pertaining to completing a race with the full crew that started it like there is now.  Many races were windward/leeward courses.  Sandbaggers would start the race with as many crew as they felt they needed for the windward leg (mostly rail meat) and then all those not needed for the down wind leg would jump overboard at the weather mark.

  7. I think you will find water ballast a racing mechanism.  Some Mini Protos use fully manual water ballasting.  It is a somewhat tedious procedure to scoop up the water, pump it all to weather then deal with pumping over when coming about.  It can also be a detriment should you be in a maneuvering situation and caught with a tank full or in case of an uncontrolled or unavoidable gibe.  Having weight stuck to leeward when you least want it can be annoying.  The Minis use it in heavy air when likely to be on the same tack for seriously prolonged times or in light air to help maintain momentum in sloppy seas (Minis are light and prone to stalling in slop).

    I can see why Graham would say it probably isn't worth it.  I suppose it could be fun if you really were interested in pushing the boat for speed.  And if going as fast as possible were a component to each sail's enjoyment.  I wouldn't want to give up the space in a daysailer for the limited use. 

  8. I have a fair bit of time rowing many designs.  A Spindrift 9 (mine) is used as a tender and daysailer.  It sails very well!  It rows like a lightweight broad bottom well designed dinghy, not like a deeper and heavier dory.  I would not build one if rowing were my hobby or means of exercise.  But you can keep it going straight and you can maintain a reasonable speed rowing.  If 12 feet is the right size for your adventure, and the trip is as you have described; I would surely consider a Spindrift 12.  Your Dad probably won't be thrilled with how it rows, but he may appreciate it when it comes time to pick it up.

  9. Its a catch-22 concerning when and how much to tighten the screws.  If you wait until the 101 cures you will break the tack of the caulking to the screws during tightening and even though you have a nice gasket water will be much more likely to penetrate into the wood at the screws.  I would lean towards tightening to a snug fit now and then leave it be.

  10. With Awlgrip, get a ding or scratch and at the very least you need the whole side of the boat recoated.  Once abraded with sandpaper, you can't get the gloss back.  The gloss is formed by resins rising to the surface as cured.


    Your assessment of why repairs are so difficult is accurate, but it can be repaired.  Our painters here at the boatyard do repair paint jobs, but the job is tedious and time consuming.

    They mask of the scratched area and sand and wet sand the scratches out.  If this means wearing through to the primer they then spray the area again.  Then wet sand again lightly over-lapping on to adjacent surface.  They then enlarge the masked area and spray with clear.  At this point the center of the repair matches but over spray around it is hazy.  This over spray is compounded out and the repair blends into the rest of that surface.

    What I don't like about Awlgrip are the isocyanates.  It is one of, if not the most deadly chemicals in a boatyard. Even though our painters use supplied air and suits, we have a special spray bay complete with filtered exhaust fan, spray sessions are announced to all, etc., the fumes are present and I'm sure small doses are inhaled by others.

    Ray,  how well does the System 3 stand up over the long haul?  I like shiny, but semi-gloss that lasts a long time, that is easy to repair and safe to use sure sounds appealing.

  11. Nothing will stick to UHMW plastics well or for a prolonged period.  That is why they work well as bushing material.  That they are so resilient is why they work well as a chafe strip.  I'm not sure any bedding will keep water from getting between the strip and your keel.  It may work to use a material that will stick to the paint of your keel and solidify enough to create a gasket which will protect your keel from having its paint removed by your chafe strip.  I would think you would still get some algae growth behind the chafe strip if the boat stayed in the water for a prolonged period.  I would try 3M 101 or Sikaflex 291.  Both will stick well to paint and form an elastic gasket that will offer some protection.

  12. The stuff is water-proof, and it is quite strong.  I have used it for building outdoor furniture and gluing exterior house and deck trim (which is also screwed or nailed) to help maintain a tight joint.  It worked quite well for both.  I have even seen it used to glue leather work boots and stand up for quite a while.  I still think I would choose epoxy over it for any boat application.  Glue manufacturers will have to come up with something quite revolutionary for me to choose anything over epoxy, and they will have to prove its worth first as well.

  13. so anything that displaces 1 cubic foot of water will produce 65lb of buoyancy.

    Don't mean to seem critical but...  Anything that replaces 1 cubic foot of water will produce 65 lbs.  minus its weight in bouyancy :P  The rest of the calculations are correct.

    1 gal = 231 cu/in.

    1gal water weighs 8.8 lbs (salt water is less, but negligible)

    1 cu/ft. = 1728 cu/in.

    1 cu/ft = 7.48 gal

    Styrofoam brand foam is really only affected by ultraviolet or being physically damaged.  If it is kept in the dark it will last almost indefinitely.  You may want to do some research on the brand you used to see what protection it needs.  If you do choose to seal it up keep in mind that if you don't totally water-proof the foam compartment you may be creating a space that will grow mold.  I suggest either a completely water-proof compartment or an open one that can breath.

  14. When an outboard is on a transom bracket it is kind of like being on a see-saw. In choppy seas the outboard can be lifted quite high. So even if it doesn't seem needed during light/no air weather a long shaft stays in the water better in waves. You won't regret your decision.

  15. I mis-numbered your plan Wes.

    She shook me up to with her labels too! My Spindrift 9 sail came in to day in a bag marked "CS 17 mizzen" :oops: Boy was I relieved when I took the bag across the street to a park lawn to unroll it and saw the S9 logo and my hull number on it 8)

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